S-10CREWCAB.NET

Slotted rotors x4 , ceramic pads / ebrake shoes.
PSR-8638PSL Power Slot Performance Brake Rotors Brake Rotor, Left Front $115.95
PSR-8638PSR Right Front $115.95
PSR-8639PSL Left Rear $101.95
PSR-8639PSR Right Rear $101.95
HWK-HB304Z-598 Hawk Performance Ceramic Brake Pads, Front $67.95
HWK-HB305Z-610 Hawk Performance Ceramic Brake Pads, Rear $58.95

Izuzu aux tank braided steel line.

Radiator replace (damaged tank) and flush coolant
PROLIANCE Part # 431405 {#1826} $148.79

Federal Lands Pass

HenryJ wrote:...............Radiator replace (damaged tank) and flush coolant

How was it damaged?

I am not sure yet. Probably operator error? That is what I blame the fleet failures on.

I have had a little seep in the LH (drivers side) tank. I can not tell where it is coming from. It may just be a loose jamb nut on the oil cooler. It could be a leaking tank seal. Maybe even a cracked tank. Six years with the abuse I have given it is quite a bit to ask. I plan on getting another new one for installation. Cheap insurance.
If the old one is salvageable, I can sell it.

It is not so bad that I am worried about it. It has been this way since last winter. I may have added a gallon or less in that time.

Rear fuel tank shield installed. Removed that from the list.

I guess I should order brakes next.

Youll love those pads. I have the same ones. I am lookin to get some rotors next.

have you ever had your pad chryoed? they last 2x as long

a2b wrote:have you ever had your pad chryoed? they last 2x as long

You meant to say cryoed rotors right?

You can't cryogenically treat pads.

I don't see any benefit to cryogenically treating rotors on a street driven vehicle unless you just have extra money you want to waste.

Track cars really benefit from having cryogenically treated because they put their rotors through extreme heating and cooling cycles.

Steve

no, i said chryoed pads.

Steve

heh...never heard o the pad being cyroed

Rotors and shoes ordered.

Braided line installed to aux. marine tank. Isuzu tank lines look good.

Back up alcohol stove ordered.

Maps and atlas already to go.

Waiting until after first of the year for the Federal lands pass.

Federal Lands Passis in hand as well as the permit for WRT.

New battery for the old laptop. Air bag jacktested and ready to go. Snow peak fireplacetested and approved.

Spare alcohol stove is in the camp box and I made one for the tire chains box too. They are easy to make and quite handy.

Brakes are on , and I regret the choice of aftermarket pads and rotors. They work OK after a morning application. Not great by any means. Definitely a step down from stock. The first stop in the morning can catch you off guard if you are not careful.

The new replacement radiator is in. Flushed the system with Prestone radiator flush prior to replacement. Cleaned out the condensor really well. Replaced a bad clamp on the trans cooler. New upper and lower radiator hoses with worm style clamps.

Dropped the fluids from the front axle, rear axle, transfercase, and exchanged the fluid in the transmission.

Added a precleanerfor the air filter. That should help with some extended service in dusty conditions.

Worm style? I need to do some maintience to Blazer...shes been neglected. Need new rear pads, new steering box, wheel bearings and probably an idler arm lol. I also need to change the other fluids, axles, tranny etc.

GeorgesBlazah wrote:Worm style?

The worm gear style hose clamps. Stock we have spring clamps.
Look for a ZQ8 quick ratio box if you need to replace your steering box. The difference is not huge, but it is an improvement.

HenryJ wrote:........Look for a ZQ8 quick ratio box if you need to replace your steering box. ...........

Off topic but, do you think changing the box to a quicker ratio would be beneficial if, you wheel on rocks?

Yeah I was planning on a ZQ8 box. My s10 has one and I like it. Dont know how it will feel in Blazer, but I like the way it drives in the s10.

I have been making some headway on the truck lately. Finishing up lots of stuff I have been putting off.

Found a debris bag to toss in the rear tire cover.

One of my aftermarket fogs was bad. Turned out to be falling apart internally. I replaced them with the lights that came off the winch during the HID upgrade.

I had one outer tie-rod boot that split. I thought about running it until it went bad and then replacing it, but that is the lazy way out. As they say, Just do it! It was not all that bad to replace. The anticipation is the worst part.

Checked the cap, rotor and plugs. A little cleaning and everything there good to go.

Fix a toasted controller and I should be ready to load up. There is some question as to available space in the back. I really need to test fit some things.

Ummmmm, I am thinking about what needs to be done. I really am not very good on these short notice trips that you come up with

Fixed the toasted controller and installed a new one. Now I have four spares cargo box lighting is back to "normal".

Cleaned the throttle body. It was not too bad. Thought for a moment I did something really bad. After cleaning the throttle body I fired it up. I expected it to take a little to get it going and it did. Then it really started running terrible. Back fired , missing, engine light flashing. Really though I messed things up. Turns out yesterday I crossed two plug wires
Swapped 4 and 6. Runs just fine now.