S-10CREWCAB.NET

Well after talking to my buddy over at awsome off road, and as yall know my truck is spring under axle well he ahs orderd me a case clocker from advanced adapers to reangle my case so it'll drop my output shaft down another 5 or 6 or so inches (depending on which of the 6 settings i use) so I can run my front axle spring over axle. Which will give me another 5" of lift or so. We are also building a double shock hoop for the front shocks, for some more eye candy. Then comes my favorite part, more lift = bigger meat. Im either gunna be on the new 36x13" swaper IROKs which are really 36.8" tall and 14.4" wide. Or 37" Swamper TSL SSRs, but its prolly going to be the IROKs because they have been reported to be a smoother tire.

Dang....now you need to order a custom rear axle from Dynatrac....

umm im not sure i really need it right now. Chuck told me that my axles were bulit to hold a 39" bogger with limited slip diffs. But will end up going to a dana 60 in the rear one day. Or untill I blow up my 44 whatever comes first. But I still want that 2nd t case and come 4.88 gears. I cant wait to see how this thing is going to turn out, or to see if I want it much higher after all this. Right now my truck seems small to me so it must go up.

so your factory rear axle was replaced, too?

haha I had to go to a dana 44 rear, that 7.625 isnt strong enough for 35s or 37s. it hardly held my 31s when i was IFS. And i needed to go to a 6 lug rear axle so my wheels looked right. And i didnt want to get one of those wheel adapter/spacer things.

warnoffroad wrote:haha I had to go to a dana 44 rear, that 7.625 isnt strong enough for 35s or 37s.

I was gonna say....

ya, ask chuck why dont he make shift the springs so as to rotate the housing to point towards the tcase and therefore elieviate the any drive shaft angle. and i am still waiting to hear about the dual tcases

a2b wrote:ya, ask chuck why dont he make shift the springs so as to rotate the housing to point towards the tcase and therefore elieviate the any drive shaft angle. and i am still waiting to hear about the dual tcases

? Are you saying just cut the welds on the knuckles from the houseing and tilt them so you can angle the diff so it points towards the case? Im not sure why he didnt do that. But I dont really want to do that because that just makes you diff cover easyer to get busted in on a rock or somthing http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 2432107660 but i have been looking into these, the guy makes them for any diff. But I dont think they work on the front, which is were i need it.



Chuck says putting on a second case is no problem at all. Very easy to do just takes about 2 days. If I do get one it would be an NP205 or 208, which he still build custom frames for. And only about 800 to do, then drive shafts so it would be about 1300 out the door.

warnoffroad wrote:.......easyer to get busted in on a rock or somthing.....

Rock? Where did you find one of those around here? Cyprus knees maybe....



Are you trying to make your truck look like the one sitting next to I-4 down at Race Rock near the B-Line?

big foot #4 on 10 foot snow tires haha trying.



I want to get a pic of my truck next to urs one day. Also need to play tug of war in the mud

warnoffroad wrote:I want to get a pic of my truck next to urs one day. Also need to play tug of war in the mud

The way you go slinking around the mall parking lots photographing everybodies smaller rides, I'm sure you will. I have still never seen yours around.



And somehow, I don't think I would do to well in that tug of war

warnoffroad wrote:

a2b wrote:ya, ask chuck why dont he make shift the springs so as to rotate the housing to point towards the tcase and therefore elieviate the any drive shaft angle. and i am still waiting to hear about the dual tcases

? Are you saying just cut the welds on the knuckles from the houseing and tilt them so you can angle the diff so it points towards the case? Im not sure why he didnt do that. But I dont really want to do that because that just makes you diff cover easyer to get busted in on a rock or somthing http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 2432107660 but i have been looking into these, the guy makes them for any diff. But I dont think they work on the front, which is were i need it.



Chuck says putting on a second case is no problem at all. Very easy to do just takes about 2 days. If I do get one it would be an NP205 or 208, which he still build custom frames for. And only about 800 to do, then drive shafts so it would be about 1300 out the door.

ya, i guess you can only do that in the rear......dont they make a high pinion 3rd member or something for the dana44?



so is he going to mate that NP205 to your stock ones? and what gears is he going to put into it?



i am putting a 4.71 to marlin behind my stock 2.28 to 1 toy tcase...throw my crawl ratio down there close to 200 to 1

Warn,



I saw what appeared to be your truck in a Truckin suspension magazine ad the other day -- I know you had thier bigger s-series lift at one point in time -- what kinda compensation do you get for having your vehicle used in an ad?



Just curious.

Mike H. wrote:

warnoffroad wrote:I want to get a pic of my truck next to urs one day. Also need to play tug of war in the mud

The way you go slinking around the mall parking lots photographing everybodies smaller rides, I'm sure you will. I have still never seen yours around.



And somehow, I don't think I would do to well in that tug of war

haha well I happend to have my camera and yall were sayin you wanted pics of my truck next to others. Ive have seen you when my truck was stock, I pulled up behind you in a burger king / carwash thing on red bug road about a 10 mounths ago. I have no idea how i remember that but that and another time on redbug were the only times i have seen you around.



You would be amazed what you truck can do. When my truck was stock i would have it in pure bumbo mud up to and over the nerf bars and it would push in 4wd.

a2b wrote:

warnoffroad wrote:

a2b wrote:ya, ask chuck why dont he make shift the springs so as to rotate the housing to point towards the tcase and therefore elieviate the any drive shaft angle. and i am still waiting to hear about the dual tcases

? Are you saying just cut the welds on the knuckles from the houseing and tilt them so you can angle the diff so it points towards the case? Im not sure why he didnt do that. But I dont really want to do that because that just makes you diff cover easyer to get busted in on a rock or somthing http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 2432107660 but i have been looking into these, the guy makes them for any diff. But I dont think they work on the front, which is were i need it.



Chuck says putting on a second case is no problem at all. Very easy to do just takes about 2 days. If I do get one it would be an NP205 or 208, which he still build custom frames for. And only about 800 to do, then drive shafts so it would be about 1300 out the door.

ya, i guess you can only do that in the rear......dont they make a high pinion 3rd member or something for the dana44?



so is he going to mate that NP205 to your stock ones? and what gears is he going to put into it?



i am putting a 4.71 to marlin behind my stock 2.28 to 1 toy tcase...throw my crawl ratio down there close to 200 to 1

Im not sure about the high pinion gear for the 44, but iim really sure they make one for the 60.



Yeah if i did the dual cases there would be like a 1.5 ft drive shaft inbetween the 2.



Im not as good on case ratios as i am on axle ratios. But i would want something near 3 to1 or 3.5 to 1. Nothing too low because I would still have low low if i ever needed it. Or if i just want 4 lo i wouldnt want a granny gear thing goin on like the old broncos, or scouts.

adrenalnjunky wrote:Warn,



I saw what appeared to be your truck in a Truckin suspension magazine ad the other day -- I know you had thier bigger s-series lift at one point in time -- what kinda compensation do you get for having your vehicle used in an ad?



Just curious.

Actually I have been in there add which is in just about every truck mag since may. I and I can say they totally stole my pics and screwed me over. They gave me hell on getting that damn thing together. Since im not running IFS any more because that kit screwed up my truck they should at least give me my money back. I wonder how much they are making off that pic?

warnoffroad wrote:Ive have seen you when my truck was stock, I pulled up behind you in a burger king / carwash thing on red bug road about a 10 mounths ago. I have no idea how i remember that but that and another time on redbug were the only times i have seen you around.

No way, I remember that. It was more than 10 months ago. It was at least a year. It was at the drive thru of Donatos, right there by the Checkers and tire place across the road from the fire station. I think it was the band of Lake Howell H.S. doing the car wash. I remember seeing it in my rear view mirror, and thinking "damn that yellow looks cool." I was pissed cause I just bought mine and didn't know they had yellow. And it was the first ZR5 I'd seen.



Don't steal any pics until I finish my rear axle flip and get 31's on. That's not fair.

Yup that was it, I only had my truck about 2 weeks at that time, and i believe that was the first day i had my winch on. I really liked that white and those 4x4 stickers.



Rear axle flip? what are you doing to lift the front? I believe u can do about 3.5" of t bar. But your t bars dont last long when you start wrenching on them that much

I wouldn't torquet the tbars too much. I see most ppl do and they end up tearing the front end up alot. I still have my original half shafts. I've just torn the boots a few times cause of branches. IMO anyhow. The TM lift keeps stock cv angles, so all ya need is a front drive shaft with 1310 u joints when the stock one blows.

warnoffroad wrote:I really liked that white and those 4x4 stickers.

OK, LET'S TRADE.

warnoffroad wrote:Rear axle flip? what are you doing to lift the front? I believe u can do about 3.5" of t bar. But your t bars dont last long when you start wrenching on them that much

I like the pre-runner look. I am removing the add-a-leafs (-2.4") and moving the axle under the springs (+5"). I'm not going to do too much more T-bar cranking. That's bad for the CVs and boots. I will eventually, possibly, maybe do the TM front lift, but only run it at 3" to 4" lift to try to keep the CV shafts level with the ground for maximum joint/boot life.



As for stressing the T-bars by cranking, you can crank them all you want, up to the point the front suspension tops out against the bump stop, and not increase the stress in the bar. When you rotate the end with the keyway, the end in the lower A-arm rotates the exact same degrees. You are "reindexing" the bar and A-arm only. Only if you locked one end of the bar to prevent its rotation, and then rotated the opposite end, are you torqueing the bar.



Now, when you do crank, you are trashing your CV joints, boots and axles. But.... no pain, no gain.

This saturday is the day. It should have been last sunday but we didnt get the clocker in till, or most of the parts built or shipped till today. So that set me back. tomorrow im callin a good friends buddy that owns SORV who does nothing but pro rock crawlers and unimog. Hes has a ton of these



at his shop. So if hes got them like everyone says, ill be towering over a set of 37s.

Cant wait to have me head in the clouds

Those would be great for mud. Nice void.

Mike H. wrote:Don't steal any pics until I finish my rear axle flip and get 31's on. That's not fair.

Ok but i get to have mine on 17" of suspension lift and 37s



Oh, if you want my TS lift kit put on. Me and my buddy that does sfa and all kinds of insane off road truck will put it on for you for free, or maybe a little somthing for him (lunch) because its gunna be at his shop. All you need is my lift kit wich i have ever part for, and ur rear axle flip. ill give you my lift for 300, and you can have my calipers t bars custom cut control arms lower a arms any IFS part that came off my truck (wich only have 4300 miles on them). email me - alloutss@yahoo if you want it done

quickbiker wrote:Those would be great for mud. Nice void.

Yeah they should pull almost as well as boggers

well....shes half done. and ALOT taller then we thought it would be. Im about 5'9 and the bottom of the window is at the top of my head. and thats with out my new tires shes should be rolling noon tomorrow, ill get some pic for all of yall. But its gunna look funny because my 35s are gunna look like pauls truck on golf cart tires

Sounds like someone is gonna need a LS-1 conversion soon.....

adrenalnjunky wrote:Sounds like someone is gonna need a LS-1 conversion soon.....

That'll probably be done in 2-3 weeks at the rate he goes.

AZS10Crew wrote:

adrenalnjunky wrote:Sounds like someone is gonna need a LS-1 conversion soon.....

That'll probably be done in 2-3 weeks at the rate he goes.

i wish! But my next mod will be 4.88 gears, clear corners, and 5x7 pro comp 100 fog lights for the rear of my roof rack. Then I think ill be just about done for a while. and then about this time next year ill seriously be thinking about a super charger.

Oh and my truck will be up on 40" IROKs . Form the looks 37s wont be near enough.

I vote for 5.13's!

warnoffroad wrote:Oh and my truck will be up on 40" IROKs .

Holy shiznit dude!

Just as a frame of reference, I went out and measured a couple places on my truck. The top of your tires will be about the same distance off the ground as my bug shield.

i should eb going out to pick up my tires tomorrow
if you want another measure ment to hold up to your truck, the bottom of my window will be a few inches over 51/2 feet from the ground.

LINK

Made the long url a link-HJ

we thought it would only come up 4.5 inches (but it went up 6"s) so thats the size of my rear block in that pic, but it bull dogs 1.5" so ill be goin to a 5.5" block (yes ill have traction bars). I like the look of a small bull dog (.5")

quickbiker wrote:

that look is starting worry me, ive been seeing that a lot.

2 new pics

made it a link-HJ

Your hitch looks like it has an 18" drop to it. You are getting closer to that truck down at Race Rock.

You may have to go with wider axles and Dana 60's for those 40's!

Mike H. wrote:Your hitch looks like it has an 18" drop to it. You are getting closer to that truck down at Race Rock.

Its about a 12" drop but it will need to be a good 20".

quickbiker wrote:You may have to go with wider axles and Dana 60's for those 40's!

Yeah, one day i'll end up going dana 60 front and rear, with and np205. But for now its just going to be spacers and some wheel with about 3" of BS (VS me 3.75). Chuck told me that my axles will hold 39s with a locked rear. Im guessing due to our small amount of power, but Im not going to run her very hard in the mud.

Warnoffroad wrote:

quickbiker wrote:You may have to go with wider axles and Dana 60's for those 40's!

Yeah, one day i'll end up going dana 60 front and rear, with and np205. But for now its just going to be spacers and some wheel with about 3" of BS (VS me 3.75). Chuck told me that my axles will hold 39s with a locked rear. Im guessing due to our small amount of power, but Im not going to run her very hard in the mud.

Dynatrac!!!