Keeping it ten years plan, did not happen...

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Sun Dec 28, 2008 8:35 am

Now that I have my truck to the 95% point of my 10 year plan (only thing left undone is paint the lower half silver and dual exhaust) In the fall my daughter will be going to college 3.5 hours away, she will be going to JMU in Virginia. A nice ride down truck route 81. My wife has always complained about the limited space in the crew cab. She says we'll just take her car. I don't like driving cars on long trips with truck traffic. We will be going back and forth many times in the fall due to field hockey games. I'm considering a used Tahoe or Yukon since I mostly only haul small clean things in the back. If I need to haul a motor or trans I can always build a wooden liner box insert for the back. Any opinions on the Tahoes?
I was looking at this one but they will only give me $7500 for mine in trade at that number we are to far apart.
http://www.autotrader.com/dealers/dda/d ... rdist=5499

okie s10 · Post by **okie s10** » Sun Dec 28, 2008 12:21 pm

I have owned a Suburban(now an Escalade ESV) since 1985 and obviously like them for the space. My son is on his 3rd Yukon and he too loves his. Personally I believe the Tahoes/Yukons are one of the best all-around vehicles GM ever made if a pickup was not your forte. Not a Ford guy so can't speak for the Expedition/Explorer. But on the other hand, wouldn't take anything for my CC. Lotsa advantages to the Tahoe Jim, if you wanting to make the change from the CC.

For the trade money you lookin at, you're own your own but that doesn't sound too far off for a 2002 trade in. Of course they will resell it closer to 10. Just try not to let that cloud your decision.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Dec 28, 2008 3:35 pm

I like newer better than older. '04 is not bad. Look long and hard at what Toyota has to offer as well.
You know the problems you are up against in the late model Tahoes. Drive by wire, I have had to replace throttlebodies due to throttle motor failures. Gas pedal assemblies too.
The instrument clusters I assume are part of the special policy and covered, so that is a non issue.
The 5.3L waterpumps have been going at 100k or less. Make sure you get the G80 as the open differentials have the bad side gears and chew up spiders. You know the transmission. It is just a little better than ours. Watch the transfercase for what appears to be rear seal leaks. It may not be. I had the clip slip and the pump try to saw it in two.
Minor stuff really. No more than you are used to on the crew cab S-10.

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Sun Dec 28, 2008 4:33 pm

Thanks for the info, still on the fence with this. The dealer really liked my truck took my phone number and didn't discourage me, said they may call me. I told them I can only afford $6000 out the door cost to me. I don't make car payments, if I wanted payments I would have left with the Tahoe.
I can't buy a Toyota, Japanese vehicles and I don't get along

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Wed Dec 31, 2008 4:39 pm

Im looking at a 2003 Z71 Tahoe Saturday it has 76,000 miles on it. How do these things do as far as ball joints etc. do they have weak points like ours? This one is super clean for the miles.

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Dec 31, 2008 5:27 pm

The ball joints seem to be holding up better as they are bigger. There were two different front sets of brakes offered. The police package had bigger brakes. That would be desirable.
Check for leaks at the waterpump, front axle seals and transfercase tailshaft housing.
Give it a roll back and forth to check for slop in the rear axle. If it does not have a G80, that could indicate slop and the bad spiders with the sift open carrier. If slack is there, I would want to inspect the lube for metal.
Outside temp would be a plus. I like that.

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Thu Jan 01, 2009 6:49 am

Any intake manifold leaks or other Dex problems?
Here is a link to it, its listed everywhere Auto Trader, Ebay. They have had it at least since leaves were on the trees.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... &viewitem=

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Jan 01, 2009 7:14 am

They seem to handle the Dex better. There are still heater hose connection corrosion issues and the water pump failures may have Dex as a contributing factor. Mostly they do not have Dex issues.
There are no water passages in the new intake manifolds, so no problems there thus far.

Funny wear on the radio controls

Around here this would be the pricing: TRADE-$9,823 PRIVATE SELLER-$11,726 DEALER-$13,450

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Thu Jan 01, 2009 8:30 am

HenryJ wrote:They seem to handle the Dex better. There are still heater hose connection corrosion issues and the water pump failures may have Dex as a contributing factor. Mostly they do not have Dex issues.
There are no water passages in the new intake manifolds, so no problems there thus far.

Funny wear on the radio controls

Around here this would be the pricing: TRADE-$9,823 PRIVATE SELLER-$11,726 DEALER-$13,450

When my daughter rode with me she was always changing my radio stations and started to wear the number off. for the past two years she's been wearing off her Bravada buttons.

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Jan 01, 2009 1:34 pm

It looks appealing. The fog lights, compass, power heated seats, etc. All looks pretty good. I may have the buttons you need to clean up that radio. I will have to check the shelf if the time comes, but I have the radio out of a 2004 that has been robbed for parts. That reminds me. Check the CD player. They got the lousy $0.10 plastic part that breaks. A refurb is $150 through the dealer. Not bad really, but it requires a fee for programming to match the VIN and unlock it. I swapped the CD player parts from a junk yard radio and fixed one without programming.
The mileage may be close to what the crew cab gets at times. 14-18 mpg is pretty normal from what I see of the one in our fleet.

Just curious as to what happens if you trade or sell the crew cab. You have a barn full of stock crew cab parts!

Personally, I hope the deal falls through. Your truck is one of the last hold outs from the original bulletin board forum. How will it be for Paul and I to be the last two with our trucks still

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Thu Jan 01, 2009 2:01 pm

I really enjoy my CC and have decided to replace any and every part needed to keep it going. I'm a diehard for things unique and we all no how really rare these S-10Crewcabs are! Oh sure there are a few around but they are a special breed and perfect size to just CRUZ.

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Thu Jan 01, 2009 3:04 pm

HenryJ wrote:It looks appealing. The fog lights, compass, power heated seats, etc. All looks pretty good. I may have the buttons you need to clean up that radio. I will have to check the shelf if the time comes, but I have the radio out of a 2004 that has been robbed for parts. That reminds me. Check the CD player. They got the lousy $0.10 plastic part that breaks. A refurb is $150 through the dealer. Not bad really, but it requires a fee for programming to match the VIN and unlock it. I swapped the CD player parts from a junk yard radio and fixed one without programming.
The mileage may be close to what the crew cab gets at times. 14-18 mpg is pretty normal from what I see of the one in our fleet.

Just curious as to what happens if you trade or sell the crew cab. You have a barn full of stock crew cab parts!

Personally, I hope the deal falls through. Your truck is one of the last hold outs from the original bulletin board forum. How will it be for Paul and I to be the last two with our trucks still

We'll see I think my truck won't ever be worth more as a trade than it is now. With markets as they are I hate to buy a Tahoe at wholesale price and try to get rid of my truck this winter. If I go that route it will be in the summer when I speculate fuel prices will rise. I'm still trying to understand why new the Tahoe was $18,000 more new and I can now upgrade to a 03 for 4K-5K and the crew. The S-10 does hold it's value but I think all values are in for a nose dive.

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Thu Jan 01, 2009 3:09 pm

Horsehammerr wrote:I really enjoy my CC and have decided to replace any and every part needed to keep it going. I'm a diehard for things unique and we all no how really rare these S-10Crewcabs are! Oh sure there are a few around but they are a special breed and perfect size to just CRUZ.

I have always liked having a unique vehicle and the crew sure is. I would like to see it to the ten year mark and be able to finnish all my plans.
All that's left undone is:
Dual exhaust.
Two toned silver on the bottom like the full size.
I really love the sound of a V8 though, and I'm not getting any younger, so I may stray from the ten year plan and go with the Tahoe.

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Jan 01, 2009 3:45 pm

I am ten days short of my eighth year for my truck. We went shopping "seriously" during the New Years Holiday in 2001.

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Thu Jan 01, 2009 8:06 pm

HenryJ wrote:The ball joints seem to be holding up better as they are bigger. There were two different front sets of brakes offered. The police package had bigger brakes. That would be desirable.
Check for leaks at the waterpump, front axle seals and transfercase tailshaft housing.
Give it a roll back and forth to check for slop in the rear axle. If it does not have a G80, that could indicate slop and the bad spiders with the sift open carrier. If slack is there, I would want to inspect the lube for metal.
Outside temp would be a plus. I like that.

Looks like the Z71's have the locking rear included in the package.

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Jan 01, 2009 9:43 pm

It sounds like it has everything. The Z71 also got the upgraded shocks. Those are as good as the Bilsteins would be my guess. Very tempting.

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Fri Jan 02, 2009 4:48 am

I bought my Tahoe 1998 (211K on the odometer) for $1800 this summer. Positives include more room for both gear and people, about even gas mileage with the Crew, more towing capacity, longer range gas tank, better seats ( I never knew how much heated seats were worth until it hit -6f), sits up higher in traffic, Autotrac 4x4. Downside not as distinctive/sporty as the Crew, cornering not as good, repairs are costly ( I just had a cat go bad and due to the design I needed to replace both cats and the y-pipe at the same time to the tune of over $800.00). At least in the one I have it has the similar problems as the Crew,leaking oil cooler lines, intake gasket leak, mushy steering box,plastic distributor, soft transmission shifts.
Even with all I have put into it including 1 new wheel bearing, all new ball joints, idler and pitman arm, inner and outer tie rod ends, new rear shocks( on there way),new distributor/cap/rotor/plugs/wires, brake rotors and pads, rear u-joints I have less than 6K into it and I am ashamed to say the Crew has been sitting since Sept. waiting for it's turn for more work before it can pass inspection.
If it wasn't for the fact I love the Crews style and don't want a payment I could see me having two Tahoes one for play/winter and one for my DD and being quite happy. I think you have a tough decision that Tahoe looks really clean.

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Jan 02, 2009 6:52 am

04crewvt wrote: mushy steering box,plastic distributor

[hijack]Yours probably has variable ratio power steering. There is an electrically operated valve in the back of the PS pump. A good flush and pump replacement firmed up the one I fixed. The variable valve was fine.

Invest in Autotap if you have to replace that distributor. Yours is not drop in like the crew. You will need a scan tool like Autotap to phase it after installation.[/hijack]

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Fri Jan 02, 2009 7:03 am

Too late, distributor already replaced, it was held in with a wood screw where it had broken off one ear. took us a month and a trip to the dealership to get the thing to stop setting the crank position sensor code. The shop I used had set the distributor in 20 degrees off and never spotted the problem, they just kept trying to do the relearn which failed. Dealer finally got it right and the 1st shop paid the dealers bill for getting it right. I will have to do the flush of the PS in the spring I hope that will fix it since the dealer wants $650 to replace the box (no mention of the variable ratio PS sensor).

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Jan 02, 2009 7:22 am

WHOA! A new pump is no different than any of the rest. $60 for a reman.
You can do it if you need to.

On the distributor. If you are still getting cruddy mileage and lacking some power, you need to phase that distributor. It sounds to me like your installer might not know what he is doing. 20 degrees? It is not measured with a timing light. I know, because I "was" that guy.
Using a scan tool the distributor is phased to the crank sensor. It will not set a code if it is off, but may run just a little "off".
Once properly phased they really wake up.
I hope yours is right. Just some of my useless information in case you are wondering a little.

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Fri Jan 02, 2009 7:50 am

Dealer gave the 20 degree off info I don't know for sure but it runs better now and code has gone away.Especially with the new cats.
It's not the pump they want to replace it's the gear box itself.

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Jan 02, 2009 8:01 am

Ouch. Might be worth finding a good used one if that is an option.

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Fri Jan 02, 2009 8:12 am

We will see how it goes, I am not worried right now it just is a bit loose but not dangerous. I may try to adjust it but right now the bolt is frozen and it's too cold out to monkey around with it.

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Fri Jan 02, 2009 10:56 am

Sold...not to me
Advertized everywhere, sold and not pulled from Ebay, Autotrader or there own site

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Jan 02, 2009 1:17 pm

There will be another.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Fri Jan 02, 2009 2:34 pm

HenryJ wrote:There will be another.

Especially after you buy one! It will have lower miles, be exactly what you wanted and be cheaper.

________________
Dances with Ducks

roadrunner · Post by **roadrunner** » Fri Jan 02, 2009 4:55 pm

f9k9 wrote:Dances with ducks

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Fri Jan 02, 2009 5:23 pm

That must be Reed's Native American name.

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Sat Jan 03, 2009 12:41 pm

I just came home with this.

$6000 and my truck.
It has everything, too much really... It's all wheel drive w/ Stabilitrac
I didn't find any slop in the rear diff when rolling it back and forth. Tailshaft seal is dry as well as the front axle seals. Drive by wire

Onstar, dvd, sunroof third row seat w/ac and heat, adjustable pedals...stuff I don't need. Has the Z71 wheel well trim I think as part ot the all wheel drive package.

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Sat Jan 03, 2009 1:11 pm

HenryJ wrote:It looks appealing. The fog lights, compass, power heated seats, etc. All looks pretty good. I may have the buttons you need to clean up that radio. I will have to check the shelf if the time comes, but I have the radio out of a 2004 that has been robbed for parts. That reminds me. Check the CD player. They got the lousy $0.10 plastic part that breaks. A refurb is $150 through the dealer. Not bad really, but it requires a fee for programming to match the VIN and unlock it. I swapped the CD player parts from a junk yard radio and fixed one without programming.
The mileage may be close to what the crew cab gets at times. 14-18 mpg is pretty normal from what I see of the one in our fleet.

Just curious as to what happens if you trade or sell the crew cab. You have a barn full of stock crew cab parts!

Personally, I hope the deal falls through. Your truck is one of the last hold outs from the original bulletin board forum. How will it be for Paul and I to be the last two with our trucks still

Stuff to sell:
HPP3
6000 mi. wheels and white letter Goodyear RTS tires
Front leather seats
Front door panels
Grill shell and bar
Overhead console
ZQ8 steering box with a new Moog arm on it
Spare automatic floor console
Old nothing console
If anybody wants this stuff before it hits Ebay let me know?

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Jan 03, 2009 2:14 pm

Gosh, I am all confused with my emotions right now. Glad you got a good deal on a great vehicle.

You better hang around here for all of your expertise on restorations

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Jan 03, 2009 2:17 pm

Another one bites the dust!

Congrats on the new ride. It looks nice and I know you will be happy.

If you don't find a home for the old nothing console, I might be interested. It is the one with the open storage tray, right? Mine has a broken mount hole.

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Sat Jan 03, 2009 2:41 pm

f9k9 wrote:Gosh, I am all confused with my emotions right now. Glad you got a good deal on a great vehicle.

You better hang around here for all of your expertise on restorations

I'll be around, I will never find a great bunch of guys like you in any other forum. It's tough to give up on the crew, I'd like to have finnished all my plans. I always planned on displaying it at Trucks at Carlisle and having other people admire my work. I have had the two dealers that looked at my crew comment on how nice it is. The last one gave me $8990 for it. after showing me a Kelly blue book value of $7070 for a excellent trade value.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Jan 03, 2009 2:53 pm

I hope you left some cards with this site on them for the next owner to find. It would be nice to see someone take care of it and show up here.

jeff024 · Post by **jeff024** » Sat Jan 03, 2009 5:22 pm

Congrats on the new Ride Jim

Oh and hey how the hell is everyone

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Jan 03, 2009 5:31 pm

Jeez! Hows that for a resurrection?!?

Still "slumming" in the Nissan?

jeff024 · Post by **jeff024** » Sat Jan 03, 2009 5:44 pm

ha 75000 miles and still going strong .Just put new Radflo coilovers on the front and she rides on rails now.
Didnt think Jim would ever part with his CC but hell I didnt think I would either.

Just dropped in to see how everyone was and hope you all had a great X-mas and new year.

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Sat Jan 03, 2009 5:50 pm

He's alive (sort of) Glad to see you still lurking out there.

jeff024 · Post by **jeff024** » Sat Jan 03, 2009 5:59 pm

you just never know when someone from the past might just pop in

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Sat Jan 03, 2009 6:04 pm

Some seriously mangled coil springs on that there truck Jeff what caused them to detonate?

jeff024 · Post by **jeff024** » Sat Jan 03, 2009 8:14 pm

Those were aftermarket from my 1st lift but im not sure what happened just junk metal I guess thats why I went with the Radflos its a great setup and adjustable from stock to 3 1/2in of lift

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Sun Jan 04, 2009 8:15 am

So far I love it...wouldn't go back. I just got back from Autozone which has a tight parking lot. I was able to maneuver this big thing better than the Crew, it turns so tight I didn't have to back up where I usually do to get out of the driveway.
I like it alot, but I have no reason to post pictures because it's just a white Tahoe, like everybody else’s

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Sun Jan 04, 2009 8:22 am

Give it time, you have only had it a day. We can wait a whole week to see the first mods.

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Sun Jan 04, 2009 8:45 am

I have a set of these for sale too. I need to get my camera out and start shooting.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Jan 04, 2009 9:07 am

Jim wrote:...I have no reason to post pictures because it's just a white Tahoe, like everybody else’s

You have been assimilated. You are part of the collective.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Jan 04, 2009 9:36 am

HenryJ wrote:
Jim wrote:...I have no reason to post pictures because it's just a white Tahoe, like everybody else’s
You have been assimilated. You are part of the collective.

roadrunner · Post by **roadrunner** » Sun Jan 04, 2009 4:31 pm

So, Jim, those manuals OEM or close enough so as to be as complete or at least technical enough to cover my 01? Also how much for em? Inquiring minds want to know since the Helm's are so high.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Jan 04, 2009 4:44 pm

Quite a few differences between '01 and '02. Keep that in mind.

green02crew · Post by **green02crew** » Sun Jan 04, 2009 6:04 pm

I am curious as well. And what information is in these manuals exactly?

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Jan 04, 2009 6:17 pm

These are the Helm service manuals. They are the service manuals published for GM. They have it all. Three volumes to cover one specific year of vehicle. As an example the 2001 ST truck 3 volume set includes information for Blazer, S-10, Xtreme, Bravada, Envoy, Jimmy, and Sonoma.

Owners and parts manuals are not included.

You can buy a new set here: Helminc.com $135 and well worth every penny.

green02crew · Post by **green02crew** » Sun Jan 04, 2009 6:58 pm

Hmmm... well if they go for sale... I just happen to have an '02

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Tue Jan 06, 2009 7:11 pm

I heard yesterday one of the managers at the Chevy dealer I traded it to thinks he may want my Crew in his garage. I hope someone gets it that really appreciates all the work I put into it.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Tue Jan 06, 2009 7:39 pm

Jim wrote:I hope someone gets it that really appreciates all the work I put into it...............

We appreciate all of your work and the knowledge that you have passed on to us. This is exactly why you need to make this site available to whoever the next owner is.

On another note, which I hope you will chime in on, the yellow school bus is looking mighty bad underneath

It has hardly seen salt and it has less than 40K on it. I wash the under carriage methodically. There is beau coup surface rust underneath her. I am not looking for a frame off restoration suggestion which, is what you deal with. Just need a few suggestions on an "annual quickie touch up" for cosmetic purposes. Thank you for everything that you have contributed!

Brule, it should be split but, I will let you decide where to.

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Wed Jan 07, 2009 6:20 pm

Added prices to my stuff for sale
http://www.s-10crewcab.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=7156

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Fri Jan 09, 2009 3:56 am

f9k9 wrote:
Jim wrote:I hope someone gets it that really appreciates all the work I put into it...............
We appreciate all of your work and the knowledge that you have passed on to us. This is exactly why you need to make this site available to whoever the next owner is.

On another note, which I hope you will chime in on, the yellow school bus is looking mighty bad underneath It has hardly seen salt and it has less than 40K on it. I wash the under carriage methodically. There is beau coup surface rust underneath her. I am not looking for a frame off restoration suggestion which, is what you deal with. Just need a few suggestions on an "annual quickie touch up" for cosmetic purposes. Thank you for everything that you have contributed!

Brule, it should be split but, I will let you decide where to.

Wire brush, sandpaper and purchase some old stock Krylon semi-flat black and allot of elbow grease

Three coats of the black will give a nice finnish.

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Fri Jan 09, 2009 4:01 am

I want to change the front and rear diff oil in the Tahoe, anyone know the capacities and a better less expensive oil for open diffs than the synthetic GM Grape sented stuff

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Fri Jan 09, 2009 6:10 am

Jim wrote:................Brule, it should be split but, I will let you decide where to.

Wire brush, sandpaper and purchase some old stock Krylon semi-flat black and allot of elbow grease

Three coats of the black will give a nice finnish.[/quote]

Thanks, Jim!

On the "grape scented" gear oil, I would look at the small print on the back or GM's container with the "meets or exceeds........" and check out the back of walmart's "Supertech" containers. An automotive engineer on a Jeep forum has opened my eyes on some lubricants. I'll not be wasting my hard earned money on snake oil advertising like RP or amsoil spouts.

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Sat Jan 10, 2009 8:13 am

Jim wrote:I want to change the front and rear diff oil in the Tahoe, anyone know the capacities and a better less expensive oil for open diffs than the synthetic GM Grape sented stuff

Picked up 3 quarts of the grape stuff this morning $$$, I'll do the stinky job on the front diff tomorrow.
The guys on the Tahoe forum have noted you should leave the fluid level 1/2 inch below the fill hole to eliminate foaming on extended highway driving, any thoughts on that?

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Jan 10, 2009 8:46 am

Insert finger. Bend to touch fluid. If you touch, you're good.
1/2" below may be the minimum specification, but difficult to gauge.

Foaming sounds like a "fable excuse". I don't see 1/2" change in the level changing anything. Its not like the crankshaft counter weights clearing the oil level in the pan. A change to correct a foaming issue in the differential would require adjustments in the fluid characteristics.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Mon Jan 12, 2009 12:15 pm

A few of my factory GM manuals recommend adding gear oil to the side fill hole untill it just starts spilling out which is the same way my local GM dealership say to fill the front and rear diffs.

I just checked an 88 and a 96 GM service manual and they both say to fill till the fluid comes out.
1/2" more fluid is not going to cause foaming.

Steve

rlrnr53 · Post by **rlrnr53** » Mon Jan 12, 2009 3:02 pm

When I worked at alocal dealership in the mid 70's, GM reduced the oil level in the diffs to a half inch below the hole supposedly for fuel economy, or so we were told. We were given a TSB telling us not to overfill above one half inch below the level of the bottom of the hole.

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Sun Jan 18, 2009 8:11 pm

f9k9 wrote:On another note, which I hope you will chime in on, the yellow school bus is looking mighty bad underneath It has hardly seen salt and it has less than 40K on it. I wash the under carriage methodically. There is beau coup surface rust underneath her. I am not looking for a frame off restoration suggestion which, is what you deal with. Just need a few suggestions on an "annual quickie touch up" for cosmetic purposes. Thank you for everything that you have contributed!

I was crawling around under my Hoe last night and I seem to have the same rust on the frame you must have. I think the best way to tackle the job would be to get the old frame (goo) black off and sand the rust then spray with a good black rust inhibitor paint. To get the black off I think engine degreaser (Gunk) would cut it.
This Tahoe is allot of vehicle compaired to the S-10, hydro formed frame, shocks that are twice as big as the S-10...it's all big

I'm not using that much more gas with it either

I didn't know these Tahoes are referred to as Hoes by the owner until I joined a forum.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Jan 18, 2009 11:59 pm

Thanks for revisiting the issue that I inquired about. You might want to check the parental ratings for automotive forums now.

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Jan 19, 2009 8:33 am

hoe
/hoʊ/ Show Spelled Pronunciation [hoh] Show IPA Pronunciation
noun, verb, hoed, hoe⋅ing.
–noun
1. a long-handled implement having a thin, flat blade usually set transversely, used to break up the surface of the ground, destroy weeds, etc.

Nothing wrong with having a hoe on the garage

Rockrz · Post by **Rockrz** » Tue Jan 20, 2009 9:59 pm

HenryJ wrote:$135 and well worth every penny...

Are they better than Mitchell manuals?

rlrnr53 · Post by **rlrnr53** » Wed Jan 21, 2009 4:43 am

Most definately

Rockrz · Post by **Rockrz** » Wed Jan 21, 2009 8:50 am

HenryJ wrote:Nothing wrong with having a hoe on the garage

I always prefered a "back hoe" myself

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Jan 21, 2009 10:18 am

I am not sure "positions" are something we need more information about

Rockrz · Post by **Rockrz** » Wed Jan 21, 2009 10:36 am

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Fri Jan 30, 2009 4:45 pm

HenryJ wrote:The ball joints seem to be holding up better as they are bigger. There were two different front sets of brakes offered. The police package had bigger brakes. That would be desirable.
Check for leaks at the waterpump, front axle seals and transfercase tailshaft housing.
Give it a roll back and forth to check for slop in the rear axle. If it does not have a G80, that could indicate slop and the bad spiders with the sift open carrier. If slack is there, I would want to inspect the lube for metal.
Outside temp would be a plus. I like that.

I took it back to the dealer today because I thought the front diff was making a whine, light throttle,
would stop when you lift. When I changed the oil, the old was black and the magnetic plug had allot of metal on it.
They game to me and said the found the problem, the rear diff they think has bad bearings, they will take the cover
off next week and access, then replace the parts. They will fix it under warranty, it sure sounded like the front

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Jan 30, 2009 4:51 pm

If it had the open diff, I would bet the spiders, or more specifically the side gears, are toast.
Since I think it had the G80, I worry about the condition of that unit running in poor lubricant, or worse yet lubricant treated with a friction modifier?
Worth making sure the lubricant specified in the owners manual is what they fill it with and only that. No additives.

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Fri Jan 30, 2009 7:06 pm

HenryJ wrote:If it had the open diff, I would bet the spiders, or more specifically the side gears, are toast.
Since I think it had the G80, I worry about the condition of that unit running in poor lubricant, or worse yet lubricant treated with a friction modifier?
Worth making sure the lubricant specified in the owners manual is what they fill it with and only that. No additives.

It's an open diff, the stabilitrak AWD Tahoes didn't have a G80.

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Jan 30, 2009 8:25 pm

The side gears were not properly tempered. You will find them flaking. Check the centerpin holes in the carrier. They may be oblonged and loose. I think the carriers were soft too.
I installed two sets of the updated spiders and side gears. You will find the tooth count differs on the updated parts. Neither worked out very well. One set lasted less than a year. There may be a TSB out there for this. A special policy may be in the works as I have found this to be common. I swapped them out for G80s and have had no problems since.
One Tahoes was sold last fall. The truck is still in the fleet.

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Sat Jan 31, 2009 2:07 am

Great, another Quitter.

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Sat Jan 31, 2009 6:21 am

HenryJ wrote:The side gears were not properly tempered. You will find them flaking. Check the centerpin holes in the carrier. They may be oblonged and loose. I think the carriers were soft too.
I installed two sets of the updated spiders and side gears. You will find the tooth count differs on the updated parts. Neither worked out very well. One set lasted less than a year. There may be a TSB out there for this. A special policy may be in the works as I have found this to be common. I swapped them out for G80s and have had no problems since.
One Tahoes was sold last fall. The truck is still in the fleet.

We'll see what they say, it's in the hands of the dealer. I'm glad I have a 3 year 36K drivetrain warranty