Help with programing keyless entry on 99 S/T

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Jim
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Help with programing keyless entry on 99 S/T

Post by Jim »

I purchased some nice used remotes for my 99 Olds Bravada. The original one doesn't always respond and is beat up. I've been trying to get the entry system into the programing mode with no satisfaction. I've followed the factory repair manual for 99 to a "T" and no luck. The trucks build date is 11/98. I've checked on other forums and have found plenty of others with this problem and they have had to resort to the stealer and pay $50 to $75 to have them program them. I've also tried the programing procedure for my 2002 pickup on the 99 with no luck. I have found these manuals have plenty of mistakes in them :shock:
Best Regards, Jim
2004 Tahoe, Summit white, loaded up. 06 front air dam, wood interior trim, Shaved Roof Rack, Escalade rear vents, LED Tails, SLP dual cat back exhaust w/ Flowmaster 70 muffler, 20 inch 07 Sierra wheels.
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Post by BADs Crew »

Did you try this Jim?

With doors closed:
1) Insert Key in ignition and turn to the run position.(do not start the car)

2) Turn key off and take it out of the ignition.

3) with the Driver side door lock switch, hold it in the Unlock position.

4) While holding the Drivers side door lock in the Unlock position, insert Key in ignition, without tunning it on, 3 times. On the third time, leave the key in the ignition.

5) Release the Drivers side door lock switch. You should here three door dings. If you do, this will indicate it is in the Keyless remote programing mode.

6) With your Remote, hold both the Lock and Unlock buttons at the same time untill you hear "two" door dings. This will indicate the remote is programed. (this can take upto 15 seconds) You can program up to 4 remotes while in this mode.

7) To stop keyless remote programing, Take key out of the ignition.

Hope this can help people out...
BTW, these instructions will work for the 98-99 Buick Centurys also.
[size=75]2001 S-10 Crew , A.R.E Cap, Limo tint windows, Halogen Back up lights. Bilstein Shocks, 1.5 Rear Spacers, Summit Rear Diff Cover Clear Bumper Lights, Carbon Altezza Tail Lights, Billet Grill. SS Step Bars. GM full front bra. ,,, GM Quote concerning the gurgling heater core " They all sound like that"[/size]
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Post by HenryJ »

1998 and 1999 Bravada show to be this procedure. The same as ours.
GM data wrote:Important

Different keyless entry systems are used on General Motors vehicles. The parts are not interchangeable even though the parts may appear to be similar. Observe the back of the transmitter in order to properly identify the system. On 1998 S/T pickups and utilities, use a transmitter identified with GM/UTA preceding the part number.

1. With the driver door closed, hold down the power unlock button on the door panel.
2. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
3. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
4. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
5. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
6. Release the power unlock button on the door panel.
The remote control door lock receiver will respond in the following manner in order to indicate that the receiver is in the programming mode:
1. Locking the doors
2. Unlocking the doors

Important

All extra transmitters must be programmed at this time. When a new transmitter is programmed, it will deactivate the old transmitters.
7. Hold down the lock and unlock buttons on the transmitter until the remote control door lock receiver will respond in the following manner:
1. Locking the doors.
2. Unlocking the doors.
8. Repeat step 7 for each additional transmitter.
9. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position in order to exit the transmitter programming mode.
10. In order to reprogram the remote control door lock transmitter with a scan tool, refer to Scan Tool instructions.
GMdata wrote:Transmitter Synchronization

* Resynchronization may be necessary due to the security method used by the remote keyless entry system. The transmitter does not send the same signal twice to the receiver.
* The receiver will not respond to a signal that has been sent previously. This prevents anyone from recording and playing back the signal from the transmitter.
* Resynchronization may be necessary under the following conditions:
o The battery in the transmitter is very weak.
o The battery in the transmitter was replaced.
o The battery in the vehicle has been in a low or no charge condition for an extended period of time.
* In order to resynchronize the transmitter with the receiver, perform the following steps:
1. Stand within 1.5 meters (5 ft) from the vehicle.
2. Simultaneously press and hold the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons on the transmitter for 7 seconds.
The door locks should cycle in order to confirm synchronization.
Any chance of a bad receiver?
GM data wrote:Receiver Replacement
Removal Procedure
1. Remove the left-side instrument panel sound insulator.
2. Disconnect the electrical connector.
3. Remove the remote control door lock receiver from the instrument panel sound insulator by unsnapping it.

Installation Procedure
1. Install the remote control door lock receiver to the instrument panel sound insulator by snapping it into place.
2. Connect the electrical connector.
3. Install the left-side instrument panel sound insulator.
4. Reprogram the transmitters. Refer to Transmitter Programming .
5. Test the operation of the system.
Triple check all the fuses. Perhaps there is a power interruption? Then carefully follow the programming procedure.

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Post by BADs Crew »

Here is another Jim. This is the second one I have found that mentions a wire that needs grounded. The other post is the same but it said to look behind the drivers side carpet for the conection.

"Look in your trunk by the antenna for a black electrical connector. This is what I did for a 94 Cutlass, it may be different on your 99. If you have that connector, ground it to the body, then hit any key on your remote, you should hear the locks cycle. It will be programmed then. If you have a second remote to program, leave the connector grounded after programming the first one, and hit any key on the second remote and both should be programmed. That procedure worked for my son's 94 Cutlass."
[size=75]2001 S-10 Crew , A.R.E Cap, Limo tint windows, Halogen Back up lights. Bilstein Shocks, 1.5 Rear Spacers, Summit Rear Diff Cover Clear Bumper Lights, Carbon Altezza Tail Lights, Billet Grill. SS Step Bars. GM full front bra. ,,, GM Quote concerning the gurgling heater core " They all sound like that"[/size]
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Post by Jim »

HenryJ wrote:1998 and 1999 Bravada show to be this procedure. The same as ours
The programing procedure you list is the one I did.
I did the synchronization step and the door locks cycled and confirmed synchronization.
I'm thinking if the receiver is bad the synchronization wouldn't have had a response.

I also tryed BADs first procedure It's the same one for my 02 Crew
Best Regards, Jim
2004 Tahoe, Summit white, loaded up. 06 front air dam, wood interior trim, Shaved Roof Rack, Escalade rear vents, LED Tails, SLP dual cat back exhaust w/ Flowmaster 70 muffler, 20 inch 07 Sierra wheels.
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Post by HenryJ »

Jim wrote:The programing procedure you list is the one I did.
I did the synchronization step and the door locks cycled and confirmed synchronization.
Sounds logical. Are you sure you have the correct transmitter?

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Post by Jim »

HenryJ wrote:
Jim wrote:The programing procedure you list is the one I did.
I did the synchronization step and the door locks cycled and confirmed synchronization.
Sounds logical. Are you sure you have the correct transmitter?
Yes I have the one that came with the vehicle that you have to bury the buttons to get it to maybe work and an ebay one with the same markings.
I don't think it matters about the transmitter the receiver won't acknowledge the programing mode. According to the manual when it does enter the programing mode it will not recognize any remote that hasn't been programed in that session. I'll double check the fuses someday soon. I'm beat my daughter just got her drivers permit yesterday and we spent 2.25 hours driving around parking lots today. I have the bravada working real nice, it drives as nice as my 40k mile Crew and is nice and tight...rattle free and all new or low mileage steering components.
Best Regards, Jim
2004 Tahoe, Summit white, loaded up. 06 front air dam, wood interior trim, Shaved Roof Rack, Escalade rear vents, LED Tails, SLP dual cat back exhaust w/ Flowmaster 70 muffler, 20 inch 07 Sierra wheels.
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Post by HenryJ »

Jim wrote:I did the synchronization step and the door locks cycled and confirmed synchronization.
Jim wrote:... the receiver won't acknowledge the programing mode...
OK, I'm confused. Which is it?

"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
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Post by Jim »

HenryJ wrote:
Jim wrote:I did the synchronization step and the door locks cycled and confirmed synchronization.
Jim wrote:... the receiver won't acknowledge the programing mode...
OK, I'm confused. Which is it?
The receiver acknowledged the synchronization with the old remote, after 7 seconds holding both the lock and unlock buttons down the doors locked and unlocked :? but it wont acknowledge the programing mode
Best Regards, Jim
2004 Tahoe, Summit white, loaded up. 06 front air dam, wood interior trim, Shaved Roof Rack, Escalade rear vents, LED Tails, SLP dual cat back exhaust w/ Flowmaster 70 muffler, 20 inch 07 Sierra wheels.
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Post by HenryJ »

Ok, now I think I am catching on. In one you are referring to using the transmitter to synchronize with the receiver.
You are saying that you are not able to use the door switches to enter the programming mode.
I would say that if you can not, then the scan tool is your only option. Many of the fullsize of the same year can only be programmed by the dealers TechII.

"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
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Post by gairbear »

Sometimes locksmiths have a scan tool...you may wanna call around before runnin' to the stealer...I mean dealer...sorry....freudian slip.

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Post by HenryJ »

Came across another programming procedure that applies to 1999 Tahoe and Suburban-
GM data wrote: If they key is in the ON position during the programming procedure, the horn chirp will be disabled, if the key is in the OFF position, the horn chirp will be enabled. The horn will chirp when the lock button is pressed two times.

When reprogramming the remote control door lock reciever, All transmitters must be programmed at this time in order for the transmitters to operate the vehicle. Transmitters not programed at this time will not work and the procedure will have to be redone with all the transmitters.

1. Ground pin 4 to pin 8 of the data link connector (DLC).
2. The receiver will respond by locking and unlocking the doors, and activating the liftgate window release (if equipped) within 2 seconds. Press and hold the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons simultaneously on the first transmitter to be programmed until the locks cycle (approximately 10 seconds).
3. Repeat step 2 for up to four total transmitters to be programmed (if available).
4. The receiver will respond by locking and unlocking the doors and activating the liftgate window release (if equipped) within 2 seconds. Remove the ground applied to the DLC.
5. Lock and unlock the doors in order to verify the transmitter operation.
6. Activate the rear window release in order to verify the transmitter operation.

"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving!
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Post by HenryJ »

The above works!

I was out for a day and the guys sent a Tahoe up to the dealership. The battery in the remote had died a while ago.
The dealership installed a new battery and tried resynchronizing the remote. It did not cycle the lock/unlock when both buttons were held.
I was told they took it in and tested it. They returned to tell him the remote was bad and that it would cost $164 to replace it with a new one and program the new remote.

Fortunately the guys called to check with me first. I told them to wait until I took a look at it.

Today I popped the remote apart. I am not sure what the oily liquid was that was all over the circuit board, but it should not have been there. The carbon contacts were messy too. I cleaned it all up with some aerosol electrical cleaner, checked the battery voltage and reassembled the remote.

Now I went outside near the vehicle , held the lock and unlock buttons for seven seconds or so. Nothing happened. So, time to reprogram the receiver.
The Data link connector (OBDII port) is numbered on the top from left to right. #4 is the center pin and #8 the last on the right. A paper clip straightened and formed to a U shape works just fine to short or connect the two pins. Once the pins are shorted within a couple seconds the locks cycle to signal the receiver has entered the programming mode. With the pins still shorted I pressed the lock and unlock buttons on the remote. The locks cycle to signify this remote is programmed. I then pulled the paper clip and tried the remote. I works!

The dealership did not even try the programming procedure. I may have worked even if they had not cleaned out the remote.

Summary: Don't give up on a remote as being "bad" , sometimes we do know more that the dealership techs :mg:

"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving!
- ThunderII KE7CSK