Rear hitch recovery / towing

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Tue Sep 19, 2006 2:37 pm

Split topic-HJ

Out of curiousity and ignorance why is using a hitch pin a prohibited recovery location using a strap?

Jigg · Post by **Jigg** » Wed Sep 20, 2006 4:39 am

It was a club decision i guess. I had always used the strap in the hitch with the pin through it. I guess the thought was that having a shackle in the hitch will limit the amount of chaffing on the strap during an extraction (from the edges of the hitch). Soooooo... i went out and bought the $25 shackle. It's mad heavy though, so i suppose i could use it as an anchor or something

barch97 · Post by **barch97** » Wed Sep 20, 2006 5:13 am

Jigg wrote:hitch pin can not be used as a tow point inside a receiver tube.

Doesn't say anything about "recovery"

Post by **Walt** » Wed Sep 20, 2006 6:01 am

I guess I've always been a bit cautious when using receiver shackles and hooks. If you use the hitch pin, you run the risk of breaking the pin, or worse, bending it so it can't be removed. BUT, I'd rather have a bent pin than a 15-30 pound shackle/hook flying through the air at 120mph.

IMO, the best option would be to use frame mounted tow hooks, or some other recovery point on the rear either way--bypass the hitch alltogether.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Wed Sep 20, 2006 6:40 am

barch97 wrote:
Jigg wrote:hitch pin can not be used as a tow point inside a receiver tube.
Doesn't say anything about "recovery"

That thought crossed my mind too but, I didn't wanna split hairs

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Sep 23, 2006 12:05 pm

Walt wrote:I guess I've always been a bit cautious when using receiver shackles and hooks. If you use the hitch pin, you run the risk of breaking the pin, or worse, bending it so it can't be removed. BUT, I'd rather have a bent pin than a 15-30 pound shackle/hook flying through the air at 120mph. IMO, the best option would be to use frame mounted tow hooks, or some other recovery point on the rear either way--bypass the hitch alltogether.

Walt,

If, a pin is okay to tow 7,500 lbs (not our rigs but, the pins are the same) with a hollow tube then why is a recovery strap any less safe? Mine is rated ar 20,000 lbs and applies pressure to the full width of the pin,

Granted. fraying, wear and tear will be avoided not using this method. The reciever is attached to both frame sides so, it is 2x stronger than a frame mounted recovery hook. I guess it is a moot point because I went with a reciever shackle

but, I have read a bunch on the topic and can't find a resonable explaination other than, "that's the way we always did it and that's the way it will always be!" I bet the synthetic rope people went theu H_LL to get theirs accepted to replace metal rope on heavy duty winches.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Sep 23, 2006 1:11 pm

If I understand correctly, what was being referred to here was using the unsupported hitch pin through the receiver and strap.
That is a "no-no" The pin will bend. Then your strap is stuck in the hitch and you have to cut the pin out. I have had to cut more than one pin out of others receivers. One of them thought they would be smart and use a grade 2 bolt. At least that was easier to cut free

Now, hopefully it has not damaged the holes to the point a hitch can no longer be installed. The next worse thing is the pin comes loose and sends hopefully just the strap flying.

The next problem with the pin through strap method is that the edges of the receiver tube abraid the strap. This damage can lead to premature failure.

The hitch pin is capable of pulling a great deal through the receiver and hitch. The length of the pin is not the strength. The diameter is since with the receiver and hitch it is a pin. To break it you must shear it. It will not be bent since there is no leverage. There is no way you could apply enough pressure to shear the 5/8" pin slipped through a hitch in a receiver. The hitch tube holes would likely fail first, but not before the frame mounting points probably.

Have I ever slipped a pin through the strap and towed a rig? Yes. Is it smart? No.

Reed, slip a zip-tie through the hole in that clevis and around the inside. This will keep it from rattling loose if you drive around with the clevis on your truck. To pull the pin you have to cut the zip-tie and unscrew it. I keep a handfull of zip-ties in the truck at all times. They are useful in many ways.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Sep 23, 2006 1:47 pm

f9k9 wrote:That makes a little more sense, Brule. I was trying to think of it, in a different light but, I had thought of the supported and unsupported pin. With a hitch installed, versus equal pressure applied via a strap your leverage is weaker with a strap is weaker,

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Sep 23, 2006 4:05 pm

I merely tossed the clevis in there for the topic. I have not had to use it but, a cable tie or ziploc is a good suggestion and certainly better than nothing. I have easily broken cable ties with small pliers when working with wiring and I am in the process of searching for a lock pin or snap link to secure it. Being the owner of many deceased pet waterfowl. I am a firm believer in "overkill" when it comes to an important component that may fail. That is why I will never be albe to have a subwoofer for all the stuff crammed behind, below, in front and on my rear seat.

For members that are unfamilar with a "ziploc". I think that this is what Brule was referring to. Correct me if, I am wrong, Brule.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Sep 23, 2006 4:20 pm

"Zip-tie" , Exactly what I had in mind!
They may be properly referred to as Nylon cable ties?

Keep an eye on that locking hitch pin. I had some trouble getting mine loose. First the end would not come off then the adapter tube slid off in the hitch, What a mess to get it off

I am now using it to keep the little winch on the car trailers receiver mount hitch.

For the truck I now use the Bully locking hitch pin
I don't know if this is THE answer either, but it has been working better for my front receiver.

Just wanted you to have an option, should you have any problems with that SS locking hitch pin.

BTW, ever try to get one of those off that has been damaged beyond getting a new key made? You must very nearly destroy the receiver to get it off

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Sep 24, 2006 6:01 am

I went to Tractor Supply store this AM and picked up a couple PTO lock pins. I got the idea from Jeremy who used one to secure the base of his High-Lift Jack, eliminating that very short cotter pin. I don't know if it will work or not yet but, will check later between storms.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Sep 24, 2006 9:38 am

It works but, Barely

That spring steel is stout and I had to have assistance from Vise-Grips® to get it latched. In hindsight, I wish I had the strap already in there so, that I could keep it on the strap and when needed I could just "plug n play". That would eliminate the Master Lock® brand locking hitch pin, as well.

They have a square spring steel lock pin that appears to be larger and easier to work with. I'll get it during lunch tomorrow.

Post by **Walt** » Mon Sep 25, 2006 5:48 am

When you guys refer to a "supported hitch pin", you're talking about using a metal spacer on the inside of the receiver tube that the pin slides through, correct?

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Mon Sep 25, 2006 8:45 am

Post by **Walt** » Mon Sep 25, 2006 9:19 am

Ahh. I cut a small piece of tubing to use in mine. I thought it was pretty common knowledge. Sorry for not adding that bit of detail.

bwenny247 · Post by **bwenny247** » Mon Sep 25, 2006 11:35 am

F9K9 beefy tow strap brother....did you get a Keeper? i remembered you asking me about mine a while ago, that oughta get you out of any stuck

i like my doughnut idea. lol

thread the end of the strap through the doughnut and then the loop over the neck, insert it into the hitch, pin it and that things not going anywhere

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Mon Sep 25, 2006 11:38 am

Actually I used it on the 17th to pull out a stuck CJ.

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Sep 25, 2006 2:43 pm

Walt wrote:When you guys refer to a "supported hitch pin", you're talking about using a metal spacer on the inside of the receiver tube that the pin slides through, correct?

I wasn't.
To me unsupported is a hitch pin in the receiver with out a hitch. Slipping a spacer over the pin is not sufficient and still leaves the strap subject to abrasion from the receiver tube.

I see "hitch" and "drawbar" as being interchangeable terms.

Walt, get a hitch. It is only a matter of time before you tweak that pin and ruin a hitch, or worse. You don't have to spend the big bucks on a highdollar drawbar. A simple straight hitch and clevis will work. Or use your towing hooks instead. That is what I do most of the time.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Mon Sep 25, 2006 2:54 pm

I equated a hitch or the solid shackle reciever as a spacer. Maybe I provided misinformation.

mjmcdowell · Post by **mjmcdowell** » Mon Sep 25, 2006 5:15 pm

All other issues taken into consideration that have been hashed over, chafe is very simple to eliminate. A stout piece of fire hose or several wraps of heavy cordura nylon, or canvas, etc. on the a strap ..... you get the picture. I have used these types of materials to keep straps from chafe on various body, frame parts over the years with much sucess. Not a bad idea to have some of this material on hand even if reciever/pin/strap recovery is not an issue. just a thought, stay safe, mjmcdowell

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Sep 25, 2006 6:10 pm

I have an old roll of five inch that I cut up for that purpose.
I keep a piece in the rope bags to protect it from abrasion when rapelling. Handy stuff

ace · Post by **ace** » Mon Sep 25, 2006 6:53 pm

Just want to add that the March 2006 issue of Off Road Adventures magazine shows good and bad recovery points. It shows the pin used for a drawbar with a strap and it says "GOOD" surprisingly. It also says only if your strap is 2" or less. It shows some really bad ones too like a strap around the ball etc... I still would use something else but just wanted to add. SWEET I FOUND A LINK TO THE ARTICLE...

http://www.4wheelpartsadventures.com/pa ... inesse.asp

Scroll down and you'll see the pictures.

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Sep 25, 2006 7:07 pm

Like I said, I've done it too. But there are smarter ways

Post by **Walt** » Mon Sep 25, 2006 7:56 pm

I think I'll stick with tow hooks, or other frame-mounted recovery points.

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Rear hitch recovery / towing

Rear hitch recovery / towing

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