Plumbing Expertise Needed.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Jul 29, 2006 7:39 am

First off I have zero plumbing knowledge other than to replace a kitchen sink faucet one time

I have a bad water leak on my side of the underground water meter. I know that the leak is in the metal portion of the pipe that is connected to the meter. I had the plastic line replaced a few years back so, I know that there is a metal to plastic connection that can be exposed with more digging.

I have what looks like a 3/4" adapter (looks like it is also a valve) that goes down to a short metal pipe maybe 1/2" dia, 2" long. Then I have another possible valve and a 1/2" pipe attached to it.

What I need to know is what kind of connection would be between the metal and plastic. Is it some sort of set up like the connections of a sink drain? For now I can turn on the water with the water company's shut off valve and at least shower and fill up water containers before I shut it back off. The plumbing supply closes in 4 1/2 hrs and I would hate to get it apart and not be able to get the parts until monday.

BTW, I haven't been able to find a plumber to work on a saturday.

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Sat Jul 29, 2006 8:01 am

I can't find a photo of the connector you need but if you just need to patch it until Monday, call and see if they have a tube of plumbers putty made to work wet or dry. it molds around the pipe and hardens to seal the leak. The nice thing about this putty is you do not have to have a perfectly dry fitting to make it work.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Jul 29, 2006 8:07 am

04crewvt wrote:I can't find a photo of the connector you need but if you just need to patch it until Monday, call and see if they have a tube of plumbers putty made to work wet or dry. it molds around the pipe and hardens to seal the leak. The nice thing about this putty is you do not have to have a perfectly dry fitting to make it work.

Thanks, I am headed out to try to find some!

Steve2003 · Post by **Steve2003** » Sat Jul 29, 2006 8:21 am

Take a picture of it....then take the picture to your plumbing supply and they will fix you up!

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Jul 29, 2006 8:32 am

If you are going to try to "putty patch" it, go to Wally world and get some Water Weld.

WATER WELD
Part No. 8277
Picture of Water Weld product
Description:

WATERWELD will plug or seal practically anything that leaks. It will patch holes and cracks, and mend almost anything that is broken. It is excellent for rebuilding or fabricating parts, and as an all-purpose adhesive for metals, wood, fiberglass, masonry, ceramics, PVC and ABS. Permanently repair holes, gouges, cuts ... even seals rot in fiberglass and wood. Cures under water. Safe for use on lines carrying potable water. We should really call this amazing product "The Miracle Welder," because you can use it to plug holes and make permanent repairs under water and in gas tanks -- while they're still leaking. No exaggeration -- this is the best epoxy putty you can use.

How does it work?

WATERWELD can be applied under water; surfaces to be repaired do not need to be clean and dry. WATERWELD putty "mushrooms" through and around holes, grabbing the edges to hold securely, then hardening for a permanent seal.
Properties (psi)
Tensile Strength: 6,000 psi
Density: 15.8 lb/gal
Compression Strength: 12,000 psi
Shear Strength: 700 psi
Hardness: 65-75 psi
Resistant to: 300° F
Modulus of Elasticity: 6 x 105 psi
How to use it:

Use WATERWELD as an adhesive, laminate, plug, filler, sealant, and electrical insulator. Packaged in a single cylinder, you simply cut off as much of the material as you need, twist and knead with your fingers until color is uniform with no streaks, apply immediately to surface to be repaired, and remove excess with soap.

WATERWELD can be formed, drilled, ground, tapped, machined, filled, sanded, and painted. It stays pliable for about 2 minutes after mixing, sets in just 20 minutes, and cures fully in just a few hours. It's water-proof; petroleum-, chemical-, and acid-resistent; resists shock, vibration, and extreme temperature fluctuations, and withstands temperatures up to 300° F. WATERWELD is super strong, non-toxic, and safe to use. Before it sets, you can clean up with soap and water.

What does it bond to?

Virtually any combination of iron, steel, copper, aluminum, brass, bronze, pewter, porcelain, ceramic, marble, glass, PVC & ABS, concrete, fiberglass, wood, fabric, paper -- just about any porous and non-porous material.

Talk to the experts at the hardware store about what you will need to make a permanent repair. They will be able to ask the questions needed to narrow down the parts needed.

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Sat Jul 29, 2006 8:39 am

dat be da stuff !

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Jul 29, 2006 2:02 pm

Well, I got back from the plumbing supply house with stuff not called waterweld

HenryJ's response appeared when I was gone. I panic and run to Wallyworld and there is an empty space with all the JB Weld products. Yep, outa freakin' stock

I take a chance at Advance Auto Parts and they had it

Get it home and it is the same thing. Word for word on the instructions were the same, just different cardboard and paper insert.

I start bailing out water, digging, bailing and I started to clean things up. A pipe separated from the valve

Waterweld ain't gonna fix that. It's 4 PM and I have one hr to disassemble the thing, throw dry jeans on and get to the supply house.

The mystery copper to plastic connection was 2 hose clamps and a copper thingy that resembled a large version of a vacuum line connection.

It is done but, the waterfowl appear none that healthy so, I will wait a few days before I fill it in.

Once again you guys bailed me out

Many thanks!

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Jul 29, 2006 2:17 pm

Keep that Water weld in your truck for emergency repairs. I keep a tube of that , a tire plug kit and a roll of duct tape in my tool box. I should be able to fix anything

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Sat Jul 29, 2006 2:18 pm

I had that happen in a commercial building I used to manage but on the city side of the valve !!!

It was a basement level record store and water came flooding into the store. It was after 4pm so there was no one on duty for the city and they had to call the on call guy who lived 30min away. I was duct taping the water line together and we started drilling holes in the floor to let the water into the foundation to keep from flooding the store. Talk about a whole flock of ducks that day

Glad we were able to help.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Jul 29, 2006 2:27 pm

HenryJ wrote:Keep that Water weld in your truck for emergency repairs. I keep a tube of that , a tire plug kit and a roll of duct tape in my tool box. I should be able to fix anything

Good idea

I carry the military version duct (or should I say "duck" ?) tape referred to as "100 mph tape". I did manage to squeeze in a short fibreglass craftsman shovel in my purchases today for my off road kit

top_sgt · Post by **top_sgt** » Sat Jul 29, 2006 3:14 pm

f9k9 wrote:
Good idea I carry the military version duct (or should I say "duck" ?) tape referred to as "100 mph tape". I did manage to squeeze in a short fibreglass craftsman shovel in my purchases today for my off road kit

gotta love the "100 mph" tape!!! have some myself!!!!

WVHogRider · Post by **WVHogRider** » Sat Jul 29, 2006 3:36 pm

Glad you got it fixed.

definitley keep the JB WEld on hand. I keep one in the truck and one in the house tool kit. I'm in the Hazardous Waste field. I use to have to use the JB about every month or so to fix leaky drums out on the job sites when I use to do pick ups. I also used it to fix a sudden exhaust gasket leak on my old Mazda B2600 truck that occurred a couple days before I went to deal over my CC. Sealed the gasket leak right up.

I'd hate to be the guy that had to get that connection apart.

It actually does seal as strong as steel.

100 mph tape??? Duct/Duck Tape???? Oh, you mean WV chrome...

I can kid about it...I from WV.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Jul 29, 2006 3:43 pm

WVHogRider wrote:100 mph tape??? Duct/Duck Tape???? Oh, you mean WV chrome... I can kid about it...I from WV.

Well, since you are "somewhat" new, here at least, I'll excuse you missing the politically correct name for WV, VA, KY and TN residents. We are no longer referred to as Hillbillys but, Appalachian Americans

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Sat Jul 29, 2006 3:47 pm

Does that make us New Englanders Colonial Americans?

WVHogRider · Post by **WVHogRider** » Sat Jul 29, 2006 4:08 pm

Well, I could have used any one of those states, (and really thought about using yours just to kid w/ya), for the chrome statement, but I figured--If I can't joke about myself, don't joke. Plus, I'm use to it---Got friends all over that give me the WV jokes from time to time.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Fri Jun 05, 2009 4:31 pm

Here we go again.

Got a leak involving a bathroom sink drain. There is a 90* PVC elbow that is leaking between the pipe going into the wall and the trap, It slides over the pipe going into the wall and is obviously glued. The other end is threaded for the trap. How do you break the glued connection loose? I do not want something coming loose inside the drywall.

TIA,

Reed

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Jun 05, 2009 4:35 pm

Do you need to break the glued section loose?

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Fri Jun 05, 2009 4:47 pm

Yes but, search just provided me with an answer. I was about to post that It can't be done. It is not glued but, bonded. Need to cut it and replace the section. It's pretty close to the wall now. Getting a saw in there will be a challenge.

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Jun 05, 2009 4:52 pm

HOLD THE SAW! There may be an easier way! You can always cut later.

I am having a hard time "picturing" where the leak is. If it is in a section that is not easily replaced, how about repairing it with some "WaterWeld"?

I had a situation that was similar. Yours has advantages in that the pipe is not pressurized and under cover , ie, not visible.
Mine was the pipe to the shower head. Turns out it was plastic and had a hairline crack. Removal and replacement meant tearing into the wall.
I cleaned it with some Scotch-Brite to scuff it a little. Wiped it clean and kneaded the WaterWeld. Once mixed well you can tell as it gets really pliable and you feel it warming as the chemical reaction is occurring. Quickly I formed it around the pipe. I covered the whole pipe to seal and add support for the pipe. It cures quickly. Twenty minutes and you are ready to go.
This was to be one of those temporary fixes. I think that was almost two years ago now and it is not even close to the top of today's "to-do" list.

Under $5 for a tube of WaterWeld and about 10 minutes to fix it. Sound like its worth a try?

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Fri Jun 05, 2009 4:59 pm

HenryJ wrote:...........Under $5 for a tube of WaterWeld and about 10 minutes to fix it. Sound like its worth a try?

Brule, you forget the underground water leak I had a couple of years ago.

I have water weld in the S-10, heep, home tool chest and a spare or two. I will give it a whirl but, thought that if, I could do it right the first time easily then I would. Two yrs sounds good to me as a temp fix.

Thanks!

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Jun 05, 2009 5:04 pm

If it is the threaded coupler connection that leaks adding the WaterWeld will defeat the ability to pull the trap if that precious ring gets dropped down there. It will fix it, but you will have to cut it off to access it in the future , if that need ever exists.
Those connections can be sealed with a Teflon gasket, valve gasket graphite rope, or some Permatex #2.
If it is the pipe or a glued seal leaking I would not hesitate to wrap it with WaterWeld and call it a permanent fix.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Fri Jun 05, 2009 5:51 pm

HenryJ wrote:......If it is the pipe or a glued seal leaking I would not hesitate to wrap it with WaterWeld and call it a permanent fix.

Thanks! It is the glued joint between the horizontal pipe coming out of the wall and the 90* piece that connects to the trap via threaded connection.

The WaterWeld should work on the glued portion.
This is all after I asked Sue, last week, to make zero plans for me for tonight and tomorrow. I worked on her pool mod all last weekend and wanted to get my heeps fuel tank skid skid and the winch's wireless remote installed this weekend. I realize a water leak is unscheduled but, this tank dropping has me concerned. To many broken fuel pump connection and hose lines occur.

Haven't spotted any water fowl yet but, I am looking for them constantly.