Tailshaft leak/replace,battery no good?,brake job on my CC
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Tailshaft leak/replace,battery no good?,brake job on my CC
Well.......got back from vacation and went to go to work the next day at 0dark 30 and the truck failed to start, called AAA at 8am and they came and jumped me around 9am. As I was waiting I noticed some break debris on the garage floor and driveway, and some viscious fluid drippimg from the rt. front corner of the engine skid plate, Oh and the wifes right rear tire on her car was kind flat,la,la,la,la, this has all the earmarks of a bad start to the week.... long story short ,needs 4 corner break job, turn rotors/replace pads,$200+,new tailshaft, another $200 or better,when they get it ordered, and the batt. has a drain on it that they have to find. My dealer is pretty good, the service girl said she could probably help me on the tailshaft problem because I am only a tad over 1,000 mi. over warrenty. Wifes car came from the same dealer, she is going to take it there after school then get me over to get the Crew, Ain't it great, never a dull moment, but vacation was great! stay safe, mjmcdowell
- adrenalnjunky
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Forgive my question, but What's a Tailshaft?
Also - be wary of turning your rotors every time you have a brake job done - it's a ploy by brake job places to eventually whittle down your rotors to where you get too close to manufacturer tolerances after a couple of brake jobs, and then all of a sudden you need new rotors they tell you.
Man - $200 for a 4 wheel brake job? If your truck has drums in the back - I would eyeball them yourself. I have owned 3 vehicles (2 trucks, 1 Z24) all but one went their entire 100K plus life with me with never needing the rear pads replaced. The one exception was my 89 Jimmy - I did those at 185K. Dad's 94 Z71 went it's entire 183K life with never needing rear pads replaced. They were checked on a regular basis on all of these, but never pulled.
Unless you tow a lot on a regular basis, Pickups generally do 75-80% of their stopping on the front braking system. There is little weight over the rear end of the truck, and the stress on that end of the vehicle is even less when you are on the brakes due to momentum.
Just my 2 cents - others may disagree, but I'm telling you what my experiences have been.
Also - be wary of turning your rotors every time you have a brake job done - it's a ploy by brake job places to eventually whittle down your rotors to where you get too close to manufacturer tolerances after a couple of brake jobs, and then all of a sudden you need new rotors they tell you.
Man - $200 for a 4 wheel brake job? If your truck has drums in the back - I would eyeball them yourself. I have owned 3 vehicles (2 trucks, 1 Z24) all but one went their entire 100K plus life with me with never needing the rear pads replaced. The one exception was my 89 Jimmy - I did those at 185K. Dad's 94 Z71 went it's entire 183K life with never needing rear pads replaced. They were checked on a regular basis on all of these, but never pulled.
Unless you tow a lot on a regular basis, Pickups generally do 75-80% of their stopping on the front braking system. There is little weight over the rear end of the truck, and the stress on that end of the vehicle is even less when you are on the brakes due to momentum.
Just my 2 cents - others may disagree, but I'm telling you what my experiences have been.
[size=75]Thanks, CHRIS
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]