4x4 posi-lok
Moderator: F9K9
4x4 posi-lok
any one have one of these set ups
2001 cc 2" pa body lift traded
2004 cc zr5 2" pa body lift 6" super lift 2" rear shackle and tb crank traded for a v-max Silverado
2006 V-max cc
2001 ex cab 4x4 ls work truck rufff country 2" lift sold
2012 silverado WT 2wd
2004 cc zr5 2" pa body lift 6" super lift 2" rear shackle and tb crank traded for a v-max Silverado
2006 V-max cc
2001 ex cab 4x4 ls work truck rufff country 2" lift sold
2012 silverado WT 2wd
- coffeedrnkr
- Crew Elite
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- Location: kansas
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I have one on my dana 30, it is much less complicated than the s10's but it works great.
Oh and I made mine myself out of bike brake cable and a lever for 20 bucks instead of like 150 something.
Oh and I made mine myself out of bike brake cable and a lever for 20 bucks instead of like 150 something.
[size=75][url=http://s80.photobucket.com/albums/j162/coffeedrnkr15/]The Crazyblaze[/url]
d44/d60 5.13's, atlas 3.8
[/size]
d44/d60 5.13's, atlas 3.8
[/size]
I like the idea of getting the 2-lo mode for the trailer moving.. that could be handy!
so, does this replace the vacuum pot that causes the opil back up into the A/C problem, or is that ANOTHER vacuum on the front end?
[size=75]-Scott-----'03 CrewCab S10 - Pewter
[url]http://www.kf6kmx.net/s10tracker.asp[/url]<-- Follow this link to find my trucks current actual location! Updated whenever the ignition is on. (tracker radio is currently intermittant) Pioneer XM, MagnaFlow, Garmin GPS,Tornado AMS , APRS Tracker, 2m/440 Ham Radio, Vista Camper Shell (from SoCalDave) , JottoDesk laptop mount, Rancho 5000's, Revo 235 75R15 on stock rims[/size]
[url]http://www.kf6kmx.net/s10tracker.asp[/url]<-- Follow this link to find my trucks current actual location! Updated whenever the ignition is on. (tracker radio is currently intermittant) Pioneer XM, MagnaFlow, Garmin GPS,Tornado AMS , APRS Tracker, 2m/440 Ham Radio, Vista Camper Shell (from SoCalDave) , JottoDesk laptop mount, Rancho 5000's, Revo 235 75R15 on stock rims[/size]
The oil gets in through a vacuum "switch" that sits on top of the transfer case. The switch controls the vacuum diaphram that pulls the cable and engages the front axles. That switch is also what usually goes bad and keeps the front from engaging.kf6kmx wrote:so, does this replace the vacuum pot that causes the opil back up into the A/C problem, or is that ANOTHER vacuum on the front end?
so you would still have that switch, or can you safely bypass it completely? The xfer case is electronically shifted right? so this vac switch would be able to be unplugged from vac source?Rusty wrote:The oil gets in through a vacuum "switch" that sits on top of the transfer case. The switch controls the vacuum diaphram that pulls the cable and engages the front axles. That switch is also what usually goes bad and keeps the front from engaging.kf6kmx wrote:so, does this replace the vacuum pot that causes the opil back up into the A/C problem, or is that ANOTHER vacuum on the front end?
[size=75]-Scott-----'03 CrewCab S10 - Pewter
[url]http://www.kf6kmx.net/s10tracker.asp[/url]<-- Follow this link to find my trucks current actual location! Updated whenever the ignition is on. (tracker radio is currently intermittant) Pioneer XM, MagnaFlow, Garmin GPS,Tornado AMS , APRS Tracker, 2m/440 Ham Radio, Vista Camper Shell (from SoCalDave) , JottoDesk laptop mount, Rancho 5000's, Revo 235 75R15 on stock rims[/size]
[url]http://www.kf6kmx.net/s10tracker.asp[/url]<-- Follow this link to find my trucks current actual location! Updated whenever the ignition is on. (tracker radio is currently intermittant) Pioneer XM, MagnaFlow, Garmin GPS,Tornado AMS , APRS Tracker, 2m/440 Ham Radio, Vista Camper Shell (from SoCalDave) , JottoDesk laptop mount, Rancho 5000's, Revo 235 75R15 on stock rims[/size]
- coffeedrnkr
- Crew Elite
- Posts: 358
- Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2004 11:32 pm
- Location: kansas
- Contact:
What I did with the vacuum lines.....
Here is the connection right behind the abs module where I took out the t-splitter and put in a straight through splicer (the brand new white lookin tube by the green one) and removed the hose that goes all the way to the actuator in the middle of the firewall.
http://www.crazyblaze.com/forum%20post/100_4111.JPG
Here is the little actuator thing on the back of the firewall where I took off both of the hoses that went to it, one of the hoses went to the actuator under the battery and the other went to the t-splitter behind the abs module
http://www.crazyblaze.com/forum%20post/100_4110.JPG
Your 4wd light will never stay solid anymore when you are in 4wd but you can hear it shift, then you just pull the lever for the front axle and everything should work just fine.
I hope some of that made sense.
That is just the way I did it, it may not work that way for some of you guys.
Paul
Here is the connection right behind the abs module where I took out the t-splitter and put in a straight through splicer (the brand new white lookin tube by the green one) and removed the hose that goes all the way to the actuator in the middle of the firewall.
http://www.crazyblaze.com/forum%20post/100_4111.JPG
Here is the little actuator thing on the back of the firewall where I took off both of the hoses that went to it, one of the hoses went to the actuator under the battery and the other went to the t-splitter behind the abs module
http://www.crazyblaze.com/forum%20post/100_4110.JPG
Your 4wd light will never stay solid anymore when you are in 4wd but you can hear it shift, then you just pull the lever for the front axle and everything should work just fine.
I hope some of that made sense.
That is just the way I did it, it may not work that way for some of you guys.
Paul
[size=75][url=http://s80.photobucket.com/albums/j162/coffeedrnkr15/]The Crazyblaze[/url]
d44/d60 5.13's, atlas 3.8
[/size]
d44/d60 5.13's, atlas 3.8
[/size]
- HenryJ
- Admin K Elite
- Posts: 12705
- Joined: Tue Oct 01, 2002 9:14 pm
- Location: Ontario, Oregon
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You need to wire in a switch to tell the system that 4x4 is engaged. It was the two wires that went to your stock axle. I don't know if the circuit just needs to be closed, or grounded. I should not be too hard to add a switch that is activated by the cable pull, or one that you can flip when you engage the front axle.coffeedrnkr wrote:...Your 4wd light will never stay solid anymore when you are in 4wd but you can hear it shift, then you just pull the lever for the front axle and everything should work just fine...
If you are running an axle that is not disconnectable, just add the switch. That way your system will think that the axle has engaged.
For those adding the posilock to the stock axle this will not be an issue since it will activate the stock switch.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
Ok, bear with me here since I'm still working on my first cup of coffee for the day. I guess when I posted above that I was thinking about my 1st gen which is all I've really fiddled with so far. Do our CC's use a vacuum "switch" (or whatever it's called) on the transfer case or have they gone to something else?
- HenryJ
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It is the same.Rusty wrote:... Do our CC's use a vacuum "switch" (or whatever it's called) on the transfer case or have they gone to something else?
We just use a motor to shift. The shift activates the switch which sends the vacuum to the front differential actuator. When it has been locked it in turn activates a switch that says the front axle is active.
That is kind of basic, but the way I understand things.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
Ok, so far so good. What then is the "little actuator thing on the back of the firewall" that coffeedrnkr is talking about? Do I have one? Sorry for all the questions but I'm trying to understand the system in the CC and how it differs (if at all) from the seemingly simple setup I have in my 1st gen Blazer.HenryJ wrote:It is the same.Rusty wrote:... Do our CC's use a vacuum "switch" (or whatever it's called) on the transfer case or have they gone to something else?
We just use a motor to shift. The shift activates the switch which sends the vacuum to the front differential actuator. When it has been locked it in turn activates a switch that says the front axle is active.
That is kind of basic, but the way I understand things.
- HenryJ
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I don't know for sure. My 2001 CC doesn't have it.Rusty wrote:... What then is the "little actuator thing on the back of the firewall" that coffeedrnkr is talking about?...
On a first gen that could possibly be the fuel vapor control solenoid.
Ford's do use a vacuum control solenoid to activate the front differential.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
I've thought about using something like that on "Project Blazer" since my transfer case doesn't have a provision for the vacuum switch and I'm not totally sold on the posilock setup (at least not for over $100 anyway). Besides, the vacuum diaphram works fine so I figure a vacuum solenoid and a toggle switch would be easier to install.HenryJ wrote:Ford's do use a vacuum control solenoid to activate the front differential.
- HenryJ
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What transfercase are you using?Rusty wrote:... my transfer case doesn't have a provision for the vacuum switch ...
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
NV242 out of a Cherokee. Don't ask why because I'm not sure I can answer it anymore. Seemed like a neat idea at the time but after all the work to adapt it, I don't think it was worth it just for the full time 4wd position. Apparently Jeep didn't use axle disconnects on anything that had this case, hence no place for the "switch".HenryJ wrote:What transfercase are you using?Rusty wrote:... my transfer case doesn't have a provision for the vacuum switch ...
- HenryJ
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KRusty wrote:... Don't ask why... Seemed like a neat idea at the time....
A vacuum solenoid would work, or the cable method I guess. Kind of defeats the instatrac transfercase , unless you leave it locked all the time though?
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
Actually, it was called "Selectrac". The case has a 2wd position. The pattern is 2wd, 4wd part time, 4wd full time, N, 4wd Lo. It's basically like a normal case like the 231 the Blazer came with but has the extra 4wd Full Time position. I thought it would be a neat idea but getting it in there has been a real headache. Now I know why nobody else has done the swap (that I know of).HenryJ wrote:KRusty wrote:... Don't ask why... Seemed like a neat idea at the time....
A vacuum solenoid would work, or the cable method I guess. Kind of defeats the instatrac transfercase , unless you leave it locked all the time though?
DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT buy the Posi-Lok kit...........yet
I bought it for my ZR2 and had terrible installation problems. The kit doesn't work period. Several other ZR2 owners had the same problems. Posi-Lok acknowledges the problems and is releasing their updated product in June, which will be MUCH better. Instead of running a new cable and pulling on the front axle cable through a mechanical linkage, they are running a cable right to the front axle and pulling it in directly. It should work much better.
If you want to read a book, here a link to my sticky thread:
http://forum.zr2.com/ubb/noncgi/ultimat ... 1;t=003332
I bought it for my ZR2 and had terrible installation problems. The kit doesn't work period. Several other ZR2 owners had the same problems. Posi-Lok acknowledges the problems and is releasing their updated product in June, which will be MUCH better. Instead of running a new cable and pulling on the front axle cable through a mechanical linkage, they are running a cable right to the front axle and pulling it in directly. It should work much better.
If you want to read a book, here a link to my sticky thread:
http://forum.zr2.com/ubb/noncgi/ultimat ... 1;t=003332
Hey Knaffie....Knaffie wrote:If you want to read a book, here a link to my sticky thread:
I Read The Book....The Way I Understood It Posi Loc Is Going To Install The New Version On Your Truck??. So After You Have A Chance To Test Out The "NEW" Version Please Post Your Thoughts Back Here & Let Us Know What You Think.....I WAs Thinking About This Mod But I Ain't Touching It With A 10 Foot Pole Now.....Thanks For Your Posting Your Experience With This Product.
The Crew Is Gone, Now I Have A Hoe