What do I need for an offroad adventure? Shields.

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Fri Aug 28, 2009 2:01 am

What chance does a non-lifted CC have in following you MML CC's around for the MOAB adventure ?

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Aug 28, 2009 4:55 am

Might be "do-able" with at least 235/85-15 tires and shields. The cast oil pan worries me the most. Even still a stock truck that has 8" ground clearance, should be able to make base camp and see plenty of sites. With careful placement, shields and a decent set of tires it would probably go every where I want to go.
A low rig may have to plan on rubbing front , back and bottom, at least once.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Fri Aug 28, 2009 6:31 am

HenryJ wrote:.......The cast out pan worries me the most.......

roadrunner · Post by **roadrunner** » Fri Aug 28, 2009 6:35 am

f9k9 wrote:
HenryJ wrote:.......The cast out pan worries me the most.......

I'd be betting he meant OIL PAN. Probably just a typo.

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Aug 28, 2009 6:40 am

Spell check doesn't fix stuff like dat.

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Fri Aug 28, 2009 11:32 am

Read the list of improvements below. Now do you think it will make it ?

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Aug 28, 2009 11:49 am

Horsehammerr wrote:Read the list of improvements below. Now do you think it will make it ?

Gotta shield for that "out"

(oil) pan?

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Fri Aug 28, 2009 2:52 pm

Is that the only real necessary shield ?

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Aug 28, 2009 3:13 pm

Horsehammerr wrote:Is that the only real necessary shield ?

That cast pan is the thing that worries me the most. Flip up one rock and you could have a very bad day. I have seen many steel pans dented and crunched beyond what should be good. They still hold oil. An aluminum pan does not dent without leaking. It is right up there where if you slide a tire off , you could end up right on the pan. Of all my shields this is the one I have bent and straightened twice.
This shield is the easiest to find and fit. All of them work. The first gen shields require notching for the rear exiting drain plug. They had a side exit drain in the steel pan. The composite shields are the same as ours. ZR2 or not they all fit. The brackets may be hard to find, but not too hard to replicate either.

The transfer case could be a problem too, but it is higher and in a place less prone to damage for a careful driver. If you get the front end over the obstacle and watch close you have time to avoid a problem on the transfer case. You can see it pretty well.

The front steering shield does see quite a bit of abuse , but mostly to brush and small stuff. The stock plastic cover will be ok for a careful driver. If it goes away (breaks) you have the lower crossmember to save you from some of the damage.

Don't get me wrong. All the shields are a good idea. That includes the fuel tank shield that very few add. Of all I think the engine shield is the most important.

The 30" tires help with ground clearance for sure. That makes a world of difference.

I have no doubt that you could join us and bypass the areas or trails that might get "iffy". I think you could keep up with us really nicely if you were shielded. There is still time. If you are serious, don't be picky and grab what you can find. There is still plenty of time.

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Fri Aug 28, 2009 5:09 pm

OK ! Thanks ! I'm looking.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Fri Aug 28, 2009 5:22 pm

I know Brule is the man here, but I would have to disagree with "The 30" tires help with ground clearance for sure. That makes a world of difference. " the 235/75/15 on my truck were 28.9" real diameter, and 30" are more like 29.6. After you figure in gravity and cut the diamter by 2, maybe 1/4" of actual lift. Better then nothing though!

Only skid I have used so far, is the transfer case skid. BUT! I had the carbon fiber skid on at the time, which hangs about 2-3" lower then the aluminum skid. I think I only rubbed that skid because it hung SOOO low. Unless your really hard up, go straight to aluminum, even if you dont have any luck and have to get it from gmpartsdirect.com

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Aug 28, 2009 8:10 pm

...the ZR5 gets the optional offroad tires. They are 29" tall.

The standard tire size is 235/70R15 , which is 27.95275590551181 inches tall (28")

From 28" to 30" is an inch of ground clearance. That is a huge help. That gives you some room to air down a little to make a bigger foot print even bigger.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Fri Aug 28, 2009 11:48 pm

Opps,

I forgot about the optional 'offroad' tire. Which was the size on my crew.

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Sat Aug 29, 2009 2:39 am

So far all I've found is on ebay. Carbon fiber, and I guess that style hangs down 2" further than without and that seems to defeat the purpose. I really don't want to put something on just to see if I can destroy it.

14x4 · Post by **14x4** » Sat Aug 29, 2009 1:24 pm

Now I have to worry about skid plates too if I want to go to Utah!

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Aug 29, 2009 1:47 pm

Horsehammerr wrote:So far all I've found is on ebay. Carbon fiber, and I guess that style hangs down 2" further than without and that seems to defeat the purpose. I really don't want to put something on just to see if I can destroy it.

The sump on the transfercase shield does drop low enough to clear the autotrac transfercase. Not really a big deal for that 6x6 section. The aluminum shields have three different sump depths.
I would say a person with out shields should not be too picky. You can always swap later if a better one comes around.
I ran a composite t-case shield for quite a while back when I was running 31" tires. I swapped for an aluminum one, and then another with a shallower sump. The problem with the shallow sump is that it is too shallow. Rocks get stuck in it and they wear on the transfercase. The deeper sump leaves a little room and washes out easier.
Those with the shallow sump t-case shield need to pull it at least once a year to clean it out. That gets to be a PITA. I should have kept the shield I had before. Every thing has its pros and cons.

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Sat Aug 29, 2009 5:25 pm

Ebay has a set of three shields, front with oil filter access door, middle or "out pan"

shield, and transfercase shield, all Composite for $199. Main problem or two there off a ZR2 and the mounting brackets for the oil pan shield are NOT included.

. What do ya think about that ?

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Aug 29, 2009 6:56 pm

A little pricey. Unless you have a home for the front shield it is no good to you. All the ZR2's already have them and the non rpo ZR2 can use them. The brackets for the engine shield are not a big deal. Those could be fabbed from a couple pieces of angle iron.

They might not split the set, but if you want them bad you might offer them $100 for the engine and transfercase shields shipped to you.
Other wise, just keep your eyes open and keep looking.

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Sun Aug 30, 2009 2:35 am

Has anyone built any of these shields them selves ?

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Aug 30, 2009 6:47 am

I believe that J.C. (jethrocornpone) made his own engine shield and brackets?
I don't think he has shared all the details though.
Justin used to build custom shields , but he stopped and disappeared soon after he stopped making the Skidz flares.
The cost of custom made shields would likely be as much or more than the price you can buy them from LMC.
It would probably not be a very lucrative business. At least not for the s-series.

The engine shield and brackets is $160 through LMC. Under $200 with all the special bolts.

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Sun Aug 30, 2009 6:54 am

Thank HJ, I did see the LMC shields in my catalog, but I think thats a little pricey. Would a steel oil pan be a doable option ? I'm thinking, no cracks from dents and maintaining max clearance.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Aug 30, 2009 7:21 am

The steel oil pan would require the earlier engine with a two piece rear main seal?
I do not believe a steel oil pan is an option.
There is no loss of clearance with the shield as the crossmembers are already that low.

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Sun Aug 30, 2009 11:22 am

Well I'll see what I can come up with. If anyone hears of another special deal I'd like to be told please.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Aug 30, 2009 11:26 am

Keep watching ebay and the classifieds.

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Sun Aug 30, 2009 1:31 pm

Will early model s-10 skids fit ?

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Aug 30, 2009 1:42 pm

First gen shields will not IIRC.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Aug 30, 2009 1:45 pm

A few posts up:

HenryJ wrote:...All of them work. The first gen shields require notching for the rear exiting drain plug. They had a side exit drain in the steel pan.

The engine plate on the first gen early models will. If it looks like ours, it will fit. It may require notching for the oil drain plug.

Skid plate applications
Used skidplates what to look for?
Shields / skidplates what works and what doesn't
Composite shields

HenryJ wrote:You can use the aluminum ones , or the composite (fiberglasslike) shields.
The front steering shield needs to have the oil door , for access to the oil filter.

I'm not sure what year they re-located it. My guess would be '94-up S-series. The ZR2 front steering shield will not work as it is taller and shaped differently.

Left is Non-ZR2 and the right is a RPO ZR2 front steering shield.
All the shields that fit look just like the stock plastic shield.The bolts for the stock plastic shield will work fine.

The front axle shield (engine shield) and brackets: '90-'9? have a rectangular hole for the oil drain plug on the old steel pans and require notching the rear, for our relocated drain plug. But it does fit. '98-up have the rear notch and no hole.

You will also need the two rear mounting brackets w/ at least one of the axle mount bolts and four mushroom headed torx bolts, w/ plastic isolators and spring washers. Any S-series 4x4 w/4.3L will work. The composite shield is about an inch thick.

The transfer case shield: I'm not sure all the years here, but '98-up for sure. The aluminum shield is shallower than the composite shield allowing about an inch more ground clearance. The autotrac transfercase requires a deeper sump as does the ZR2. Either will fit ours, but they hang down lower.

The one on the left is off of a RPO ZR2 and the one on the right off of a Non-ZR2.
Ours fits pretty tight and the transfercase is tucked up higher than the rest. You will need the three self tapping screws w/washers for the back mount.

For those early models with a steel fuel tank there is a fuel tank shield: '84-up will work with the correct front bracket and modification of the support brace. It is a little tight on the rear tank strap , but works. '96-up is better because of the relief they added for the fuel tank strap. You will also need five self tapping screws for the frame attachments, one long bolt and nut to mount through the crossmember, two bolts and one nut for the front bracket and of course the front bar brace. '84-up S-series ex-cab pickup.
I have seen composite fuel tank shields on some Blazers. I don't know if or what they might fit. It would be fun to try one.

If you are searching the wrecking yards, use the measurement from the trans mount holes to the rear mounting holes, as a reference for finding the right transfer case shield.

So I guess if the salvage yard has a '94-up S-series 4x4 it would be worth checking for all the shields. Most of the ones in my area do not inventory shields, so a phone call won't due. It requires a trip to the yard.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Sun Aug 30, 2009 3:36 pm

That quote right there, would have been super helpful to have on the mod page, with the skid plate info, when I was researching the subject.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Aug 30, 2009 3:45 pm

It has been here for six years

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Mon Aug 31, 2009 1:19 pm

Yeha this info has been on the board, but if you also put it on the mod page, under the other ifno on skid plates, that woiuld be a big help, and probably cut down on a lot of skid questions. See what I mean?

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Aug 31, 2009 1:37 pm

fallvitals wrote:...if you also put it on the mod page, under the other ifno on skid plates, that woiuld be a big help, and probably cut down on a lot of skid questions. See what I mean?

What information is the page missing?

Crew Cab Skid Plates

14x4 · Post by **14x4** » Mon Aug 31, 2009 1:49 pm

Will a gas tank shield from a ZR2 fit our crews?

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Aug 31, 2009 2:23 pm

Steel tank or plastic? Truck or Blazer? The Blazer shield will not work as they have a rear tank.
I will guess that one from a truck just might work. I haven't tried it or heard of it being done though.

The plastic tanks are a little different and have bulges the steel tank doesn't. They also risk rocks being trapped between and rubbing holes in the tank.
The steel tank is less likely to get a hole from the rocks, but can be prone to rust through if you don't keep the silt cleaned out and live in one of those rust prone areas. I have seen tanks from Utah and Nevada that were rusted through in less than half a dozen years due to the dirt trapped in the shield.

I guess what I an trying to say here is that our tanks are not in a bad place. They are last on the list for shields to seek.

That being said, I have a steel fuel tank and a first gen steel fuel tank shield. It came after all the other shields were in place though.

jedthrocornpone · Post by **jedthrocornpone** » Mon Aug 31, 2009 7:56 pm

not going to muddy the water, but some of the wrong year shields will work with some adjustments/ or at least they are for me.

14x4 · Post by **14x4** » Mon Aug 31, 2009 8:02 pm

HenryJ wrote:Steel tank or plastic? Truck or Blazer?

I guess what I an trying to say here is that our tanks are not in a bad place. They are last on the list for shields to seek.

My gas tank is plastic. The shield came off of a S-10 ZR2. But since you think it is unnecessary to get one, you saved me $150. I appreciate the advice!

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Aug 31, 2009 8:06 pm

Those plastic tanks are really pretty durable. They bounce back when you dent them most of the time.
$150 is a pretty good chunk. I think I would use that toward the rest of the shields first.

14x4 · Post by **14x4** » Mon Aug 31, 2009 8:11 pm

HenryJ wrote:Those plastic tanks are really pretty durable. They bounce back when you dent them most of the time.
$150 is a pretty good chunk. I think I would use that toward the rest of the shields first.

I'm glad to hear the plastic tanks are sturdy.

I placed a bid on the front diff shield you suggested in the classifieds. Hopefully that will be mine not long from now.

I don't know about finding the rest... I might have to call up a few salvage yards in my area. I'll deal with all that after I finish the MML.

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Aug 31, 2009 8:26 pm

I'd start looking now. These trucks are on their way to the crushers. The whole cash-for-clunkers thing has sped up the process.
Those clunkers have to be crushed within 30 days from the time they arrive at the recyclers yard. They strip what they want and then the crusher moves in. Many yards do not own crushers and when one rolls in they like to get as much done as possible. That means anything over five years old is fair game.
With the price of steel reasonable, there is no reason to sit on the old stuff.
Those shields used to be pretty easy to find. I went through half a dozen sets and scattered them all over the US. Now I wish I had a few. The price has really shot up, or at least it looks that way right now.

jedthrocornpone · Post by **jedthrocornpone** » Mon Aug 31, 2009 8:42 pm

I failed bad in my area every (and I do mean every yard) told me "sure we have some, or yeah come on in." In the end I think I crawled my way thru 7 or 8 yards and fail on a couple more when they wouldn't let me past the counter.

good luck!

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Tue Sep 01, 2009 11:11 am

HenryJ wrote:
fallvitals wrote:...if you also put it on the mod page, under the other ifno on skid plates, that woiuld be a big help, and probably cut down on a lot of skid questions. See what I mean?
What information is the page missing?

Crew Cab Skid Plates

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Sep 01, 2009 4:01 pm

fallvitals wrote:

Just mess'n with ya

Thanks for the heads up. I added it as requested.

For those looking for shields. They are still out there. Keep looking. The brackets are the key. Look for the right front bracket to be still on the vehicle. I mounts just to the inside of the right rear lower control arm. Most dismantlers are leaving it as there really is nothing important.
I am seeing more of the composites show up now. Don't lose heart , there is still hope.

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Thu Sep 03, 2009 12:09 pm

Got a chance at aluminum oil pan and transfercase shields off 1st gen blazer. Will they fit my CC. $50

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Sep 03, 2009 1:38 pm

Oil pan, yes but you have to cut a notch for the oil drain plug on some. Transfercase, no.

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Thu Sep 03, 2009 2:09 pm

Well I guess I keep looking. He won't split the deal. I think I would prefer the Composites anyway.

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Sep 03, 2009 2:22 pm

Horsehammerr wrote:...I think I would prefer the Composites anyway.

I'm pretty sure there are some of those around that fit

EKperformance · Post by **EKperformance** » Thu Sep 24, 2009 8:34 pm

what trucks came with them?

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Sep 24, 2009 8:44 pm

The shields that fit ours were never on a specific model as far as I know. They were an option. That option may have been included as part of a package, but nothing like the RPO ZR2.

There is a good thread on what fits and what doesn't. That and the mod page have all the details.

jedthrocornpone · Post by **jedthrocornpone** » Sun Sep 27, 2009 7:06 pm

I have some pics from what I did to get my Tcase skid to work..... and a shot of my diff skid. as well as a ouch! whoops pic

view of the custom piece

As seen from the side you can see that the older plates have the rear holes farther back than the correct ones I made the bracket to give me the room I needed to use the holes. I will admit that tightening the 3 bolts was a little time consuming

I did elongate all of the mounting holes and the factory nuts for the trans mount have the washers connected......I removed 1 side so I could slide the skid as far forward as possible. hopefully the pic shows what I'm trying to say

This is my home made engine skid I just made one out of cardboard first and transferred it to steel sheet, cut, bend, drill, weld, install..............oh I made the mounts too

did I mention I did most of this in the last 48 hrs before hitting the road for 3500 mile road trip....I did make at least 1 mistake...... I had thought I got thread locker on everything I wanted but I guess not. Here is what happens when your front diff spits out a bolt allowing your pinion to rotate up into your oil pan/transmission...on a side note the sound of the yoke eating its way thru bell housing/oil pan was HIDEOUS

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Sat Oct 03, 2009 3:18 am

Why couldn't a full belly pan be used ? I'm talking about in sections from frame rail to frame rail, front to as far back as needed ? I'd think the frame would be a very stable mounting surface and with the right spacers you can clear everything.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Oct 03, 2009 7:02 am

They can be used and used effectively. Heepers do it all the time but, it is called a TT or "tummy tuck". They are a bear to wrestle with! Servicing components would be difficult. Side benefits includes lowering your COG.

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Sat Oct 03, 2009 7:20 am

Sorry I'm more into road terms, Belly Pan seems to say more for what it is, a pan not a reduction as in "tuck".

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Oct 03, 2009 11:43 am

Same thing to me. The getting rid of the stock "shovel" on the heeps and gaining 2.5" of ground clearance. Frame rail mounting is doable. It wouldn't work for the front diff obviously. Have you thought about what all hangs lower than the frame rails?

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Sat Oct 03, 2009 2:55 pm

The only thing I see lower than the frame rails from the front shield to the rear cross member is the oil pan and the crossover exhaust pipe. I think the proper mounting hardware can avoid any hangups there. That cross member at the end of the Torsion Bars is likely the end of needed shield. Will need access opening for oil drain plug. I always drop my front shield at oil change anyway so I have easy access to do my lube work on front end fittings.

S-10CREWCAB.NET

What do I need for an offroad adventure? Shields.

fit with adjustments