Just thinking out loud here about zr5 flares...

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Sun Jun 14, 2009 11:08 am

Oh how I wish Skidz still made flares. I would love 33x9.5x15s. I know i can still make the cuts, but my

#1 ZR5 flares wont fit.

#2 im sure theres nice wear marks on the paint from the zr5 flares.

#3 theres gonna be some visible scaring that only the skiz flares, or new paint will cover.

Even if i did find some Skidz, the rear skidz doesn't cover the same area the zr5 does on the rear flare, so you will still see wear marks.

But, as for thinking out loud. What if you went and made a cut in the zr5 flares liek you do when your trimming the fender for skidz. You cut it then "tuck" it in so it matches the skidz cuts?

I dont think it will work, im assuming fiberglss would like to have any kind of bend to it. but then you could bondo? the cut so once its painted youd never know the differance...

Just thinking outloud, im sure if it was a viable option it would already be done. but just wondering..

Im really looking for any kind of a good way to put 33x9.5s on this truck.. but not look like crap. It has to have a flare, now if any one has any kind of idea on how I could mod the zr5 flares, bondo em, cut em then bolt em together,, any thing... im open..

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Jun 14, 2009 1:49 pm

I always figured I would go flareless when the Skidz flares die or get damaged. My plan is to liner the rockers and over the fenders to the wear line made by the flares.

It should look fine.

No one has tried the fullsize Ford F-150 extend-a-fender flares made by Bushwacker. I have seen pictures of them fit to a Jeep Cherokee as cut out flares. It looked good. That also might be a viable option.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Sun Jun 14, 2009 6:57 pm

The bedliner stuff is a decent idea.

But, a buddy said that stuff is bad for fenders and what not, cause it traps dirt, and looks awful?

Guess ill have to find out for myself, but I wonder how much extra flare, those zr5 flares add to the stock fender.... meaning, by taking em off, is my front tire gonna be outside of the fender well? (illegal)

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Jun 14, 2009 7:10 pm

fallvitals wrote:The bedliner stuff is a decent idea.

But, a buddy said that stuff is bad for fenders and what not, cause it traps dirt, and looks awful?

Don't tell that to the guys that have already done it!

There is a Bronco in town that did the whole exterior. It is washable and durable.
Keep in mind that you get what you pay for. Not all liners are the same.

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Mon Jun 15, 2009 4:06 am

I did the SKIDZ cuts to my front ZR5 wheel wells and Flares . I had to so my 8" wheels with 275/60 tires would clear when I turn. The result was perfect and looks like it came that way. I"m in the process of going to 31/10.5s so I will also do the SKIDZ cuts to my rear wheel wells and ZR5 flares. I'm not going up with body or suspension, but will go to fullsize Bumpstops and hope that is enough to prevent rubbing the top of my wheel wells. I don"t do a lot of wheelin, but when I do its slow and easy.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Mon Jun 15, 2009 10:50 am

That doesnt look bad brule. but still my concern with flareless is the tire sticking out further then the flare (illegal, and looks aweful). Im guessing that guy is running spacers, or just really wide tires.

But I am sure I would have to spray of the bedliner junk outside the flare are on the fender, since im sure those flares have rubbed further out then that guy sprayed... might look bad...

Hrose hammer, You did the cuts to your flares too? If you did mod the flares to still fit after the cuts, can you tell us here, or PM me? Do you have pictures of yours? im very intrested in seeing it...

What I was thinking about when modding the flares, was cutting off the inside-the-fender part of the flare, trimming the rest of the flare so when they joined together they would fit correctly. Then bonding them together somehow... i would have to research that, bondoing the ling where the join together up, sanding it so it looks stock, and bolt it back on. Does that sound like it could be possible?

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Mon Jun 15, 2009 12:19 pm

I cut my ZR5 flares the same cut as the Skidz cut on the wheel wells. I simply cut on a band saw along the fender mount flange from the bottom up the same length as the cut on the fender. Just match the measurements of the fender cut. 1 1/4" back and 11" up slide it flush and pop revet the lap. It matches perfectly and looks great. I"m sorry I don"t have the ability to send a picture cause I know a picture tells a thousand words !!

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Mon Jun 15, 2009 1:12 pm

Damn it Jim! Ill send you a camera, take the pictures send it back? lol.

I think I understand what your saying.. so your making the same exact cut as the skidz, cutting it, but not completely cutting it off, then bending it back and pop riviting it? Does the bend not snap/break the flare where its connected?

And are those rivits visible? (Im thinking yes).

I think I understand what you are saying by slide it flush. The portion of the flare that mounts in the fender well... your going to slide that UNDER the flare, to where its sqaure/flush/flat with the rest of the flare, then pop rivit it in place?

If so I think I completly understand. I just dont like the idea of the rivets showing. and might take some bondo, and smooth out the edge. it would bother ME, lol. (fyi, I have never used bondo, though I am from WV

).

but the skidz cuts are looking like a great idea right now, and will still look stock.

F9K9 got me thinking in an old post, how 30/31s were a waste of money,,, just do the skidz cut and put on 33s.... hm hm hm...

horsehammer, thanks for that info, it is extremely helpful.

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Mon Jun 15, 2009 2:09 pm

Its cool, I hope this info does help. I was concerned about the rivets too, but after putting the flares back on you have to look real close to find them. A little black paint and poof their gone.The 33s are interesting but only for serious wheelin and the 2" body lift is a must do to clear 33s.I know its only 2" but I'm more into Dukes of Hazzard cornering, not rolling on the roads in the OZARKS. I think 31/10.5s will do it for me.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Mon Jun 15, 2009 7:26 pm

I'd love to just Line-X the entire inside of the tub on the Rubicon.but, $500 is a tad steep.

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Jun 15, 2009 7:28 pm

I will do the rockers and over the flares someday. Once the chips warrant a clean up.

green02crew · Post by **green02crew** » Mon Jun 15, 2009 9:10 pm

$500 isn't bad for that work linex, it takes a lot of taping off. It was $400 for the bed of the crew! Have them do the rocker panels while you're at it, rust prevention all the way.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Tue Jun 16, 2009 12:22 am

Alright, two questions, how many riviets did you put in each piece to hold it there, two?

And when your cutting the flare, did you do it exactly like the fender, and not cut it off? but leave it connected and bend it back? Im thinking the plastic/fiberglasss would break, curious about your experiance.

Oh yeah, e need to repaint one of my flares any ways, so ill do em all, and some black paint should hide the rivets. So it is possible to do the skidz cuts and have flares

Now i need to start searching info on 33/9.5 tires

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Tue Jun 16, 2009 5:58 am

Up 3/4" from bottom of flare 1 revit 3/8" in from front edge, 1 revit 1" back from that revit. than 3" up from first revit and another one 3" uo from this one. All three front edge revits are 3/8" from front edge, 4 revits total in each flare, nice and snug and have had no slip or crack on either flare in 8 months and 32,000 miles road and offroad combined. Try it you"ll like the results. Beats the heck out of spending a bunch of money then time modifiing some other product that really doesn"t fit.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Sun Jun 28, 2009 9:13 pm

Looks like my weekend project this week will be the skidz cuts and moding the ZR5 flares. Ill be sure to take pictures along the way, maybe it can be made into a tutorial for other new comers.

Basic painting question...

Once I remove the flares, im gonna sand em all down with about 200 grit sand paper (that sound right?). Then make the skidz cuts, pop rivet them together.

Then get some bondo, slap it on the edge of the flare so I can make it round. Let it dry, then start sanding it to the basic shape with 220 gritt, then using 800-1200 to finish it.

I have never bondo-ed before, doesnt seem too bad. But do I want to spray primer on these plastic/fiberglass flares then the Rustoleum Mettalic midnight paint? Or just paint and not worry about primer?

I dont think I have ever used primer, but i have never painted nothing as "serious" as this either. Of course finishing with a few coats of clear coat.

Do I have the steps right? Or am I msising any thing? Just wanna do it right the first time

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Jun 28, 2009 9:55 pm

Wish that I could help, Bro! Only posting for you to know that we do read questions.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Sun Jun 28, 2009 10:17 pm

lol. I know its a basic one,

I just have never painted any thing that needs to be super nice in the end, and im not sure if primer on plastic/fiberglass (whatever these zr5 flares are) is the right way? lol. I know you all read the questions

I try to not ask questions much. I do spend more time then I should here searching through old threads for lots of odds and ends info when I have the time, lol.

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Jun 29, 2009 4:48 am

Bondo is never going to hold up in that position. I am not sure it would even stay put as it may not adhere to the plastic very well. The expansion properties of the plastic and its flexibility are going to be a problem. I would look for something else or go without.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Mon Jun 29, 2009 9:58 am

Hm, well ill see what else Advance may have then.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Mon Jun 29, 2009 12:04 pm

Well, went out today and bought all the junk needed to paint the flares, and do the Skidz Cut. $65 in junk

Granted $35 of that was for 2 cans of spray paint, can of primer spray paint, and the window weld urethane. Another $11 for two boxes of rivets. The rest odds and ends.

Anyways. While at advance auto, I saw this "Bondo Fiberglass Resin Jelly". http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/us ... o?pid=6115

It says it wil lwork with plastic, but says for small spots.. Its $15 for the Bucket of it, after the $65 I already spent, im not about to drop $15 of something that might not work, any ideas there?

Plus I couldn't find any "plastic primer" so I got a can of primer for "Wood, Metal, and more". Guyess ill have to do some googling to see if its even worth using..

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Mon Jun 29, 2009 12:47 pm

JBweld epoxy becomes part of it, and sands down real smooth like bondo. You will break the flare next to the patch before the patch will break. Been there done that. You can form the stuff a layer at a time to the full filling you need and it's bullet proof. Holds any kind of paint for ever.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Mon Jun 29, 2009 12:58 pm

Not a bad idea at all....

okie s10 · Post by **okie s10** » Mon Jun 29, 2009 9:17 pm

I was lucky enough to latch onto a nice new NOS set of skidz flares a while back to put on my Zr5. Yep, got the flares on all OK but the ZR5 flares did leave a tale-tale exposed line in my paint which the new flares didn't cover. Polish and polish they still there but oh well. Can't tell it unless right up on the truck so I live with what I was dealt on the deal.

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Jun 30, 2009 4:53 am

okie s10 wrote:...ZR5 flares did leave a tale-tale exposed line in my paint which the new flares didn't cover. ... I live with what I was dealt on the deal.

Even the stock faux rear flares leave a mark that does not cover. You are not alone.

paintballrocker · Post by **paintballrocker** » Tue Jun 30, 2009 2:11 pm

hey just wondering, what is the difference between a stock CC flare, and the ZR5 flares? Im asking because my CC has the regular flares, and im going to start the "mystery lift" soon on my truck and i want to be able to make the skidz cuts and mod the stock flares to match, like what Horsehammerr did.

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Tue Jun 30, 2009 4:50 pm

AS far as I know the only stock CC flares are ZR5 flares.I know nothing about a " FAUX" flare.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Tue Jun 30, 2009 6:04 pm

The non ZR5s except for Border Man's, came with flares to help to compensate for the Isuzu's narrow bed. His was a '00.

paintballrocker · Post by **paintballrocker** » Tue Jun 30, 2009 6:38 pm

well mines an '02 and i looked at my truck closley and found that the bed only has flares. the front of my truck the flares are molded from the fender. i hope that makes any sense.
so even tho i have some weird flare set up, do you think i would still be able to make the skidz cuts?

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Jun 30, 2009 7:36 pm

The faux rear flares are there to mimic the body lines of the s-series trucks. The Isuzu bed didn't have them, and neither does the Hombre front fenders.

My plan was to fill or cover the holes with the flares off and Linex over them along with the rockers.

paintballrocker · Post by **paintballrocker** » Wed Jul 01, 2009 12:22 pm

so even though i only have real flares on the bed, could i still make the skidz cuts to the front and rear?

Also how much do you think it would be to have the flares and rocker panels linex, or rhino lined?

sorry for the simple Q's....

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Wed Jul 01, 2009 1:23 pm

Im not sure about your flare question, as I have not seen the set up you have. If you want to linex them, I dont see why you couldn't?

As for cost, im not sure. I would have th bed done while it was there. I do know the majority o the cost is in preperation, and waste disposal. I think its like $350? to do a bed, so id guess about the same for the rocks/flares?

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Fri Jul 03, 2009 4:19 pm

im takig my zr5 flares off now in preperation for tommorow. Got a front one off, bit of a pain, it had double sided tape.

trying a rear one,, and it wont come off? feels like theres some sort of fastener that i cant see or anything.. ideas?

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Jul 03, 2009 4:22 pm

Did you pull the plugs inside the fender and remove the nuts from all the studs?

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Fri Jul 03, 2009 4:34 pm

I was getting ready to report I figured it out. lol, Your suggestions is correct Brule. Im taking pictures as i go to maybe put together a tutorial for the next guy. I did break two of those studs so far...

Old and rusty... but before I figure that out i accdently pulled to hard thinking it was tape like the frnt and broke part of the fender mounting on the inside, but once its riveted down, and screws back in, it wont be an issue.

Thanks, back to it. This has definantly taken longer then I thought, lol. i started wit hthe step up bars, stopped, then started this, lol.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Fri Jul 03, 2009 4:57 pm

Alright, well. You don't need to drill those rivet on the fender out!

So, the damage so far, theres i think 4 of those muonting brackets that had me confused on each flare. All of the bolts except two broke on me

But shouldnt be a bad fix.

Now assuming you get all the nuts off without the bolt breaking, you dont need to drill those rivets out.

Which, right now, I just need to get the front fender off, and wash it up around the fenders so it doesnt look like hell when I go to work tonight, lol. And start the Skidz project in the morning. Early. Hopefully ill be done by noon with cutting the fenders, then spend a few days, fabbing, sanding, reparing the mounts, painting, and then re-mount the flares. Wish me luck, ill need it

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Fri Jul 03, 2009 7:53 pm

Sounds like these rigs are beginning to require soaking of all fasteners before working on them. One of us should have remembered to clue you in on the rubber plugs. Research is beginning to become more and more important before attempting a mod due to our rigs age and your climate..

I hate to say it but, soaking fasteners daily for a week before performing a mod or maintenance, with PB Blaster or Deep Creep, looks like a smart move to make on everything.

If you plan keeping the rig a few years then you need to reassemble it with Anti-Seize. Get the bottle and skip the tube. You will want to coat allot of stuff with it once you have fought a battle with rusted fasteners.

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rlrnr53 · Post by **rlrnr53** » Sat Jul 04, 2009 5:48 am

f9k9, you are right about the anti-seize! After 32 years+ of wrenching on DOH equipnent, PB and anit-seize are required for any repairs. I prefer the copper anti-seize. It seems to work better than the silver. As for PB or Deep Creep, I can't say becase I've never used it. Age + salt + corrosion = nothing but headaches!

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Jul 04, 2009 6:29 am

I can't tell you which is better but, accept your opinion of the copper. I use it on spark plugs but, haven't seen it in large bottles around here. Whichever you use, you want to be liberal with it. After beating an old bearing assembly off of a knuckle it will look as if, I painted it silver when I reassemble it.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Sat Jul 04, 2009 11:17 am

QUESTION GUYS!

Doing the skidz cuts. Whats the best way to trim the front fender to get it to slide back in there? And whats the best tool? it just looks like a pain in the butt all around on the front one.

I had a heck of a time with it. rear fenders was cake.

I need another blade. I cut one thinking it would be easier

and the other is bent all to heck. And im not sure if any place is open today for another (went to buy 3 but they only had two at the time

)

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Jul 04, 2009 1:00 pm

Lowes is open and you want metal cutting ones. I went through several. The second front fender you do will do in less than half the time and twice as clean.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Jul 04, 2009 1:31 pm

Get the white bi-metal blades. You can straighten them.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Sat Jul 04, 2009 1:31 pm

Yeha, just ran out there, got 2 new blades. That front is a biotch! lol. Blade kept catching.

I was using metal cutting blades too, 24 tpi.

Let me ask, that nut bracket thats behind the fender at the bottom. where you need to cut a slit into it to slide the fender into itself.... whats the best way to cut that sucker? I tried to break the spot weld on the bttom but cant.. im thinking of getting my dremel in there and going at it... i think thats the only thing holding me up on the FIRST front fender.

Plus loks like its getting ready to rain, so i mihgt just have to call it a day.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Sat Jul 04, 2009 1:32 pm

HenryJ wrote:Get the white bi-metal blades. You can straighten them.

I got the Dewalt bi-metal ones. I straightened em some... but really didnt do much.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Sat Jul 04, 2009 2:13 pm

okay last update for the day. I got the front divers side cut, and the fender slipped up into itself.

That bracket I was having fits with,, i ended up getting a screw driver under it, exposing the spot weld, and dremeling it with a large cut off wheel as much as possible then broke it with a hammer and flat head screw driver. Hopefully the other side oes much better! lol

While inside eating ribs it rained, lol. Cleaning everything up and if it doesnt rain all day tommorow, finish it. If it does rain, I can always spend part of the day in the garage drilling holes in my step up bar brackets.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Mon Jul 06, 2009 6:52 pm

Alrighty, nearly done with the cuts, all I have to do is put the bolts back in the front fender guard,sheet metal thing tommorow after the caulking dries.

Question...
from the Skidz how-to.

Use a hammer and prybar to push the inner fender well back to line up with the back of the fender and allow for better clearance. Drill an 1/8" hole to hold the inner fender to the rear of the fender and attach it with a self tapping sheet metal screw.

Okay that said, this is what the inner fender well looks like, you can see what im sure is the front of the cab, and its stick past the skidz cuts about 3/4"

im not beating that part of the cab am I?

I dont think im going that extreme if so.... Im just confused about what im prying/hammer to fit better? Seems like the loose fender wheel guard would get screw back into place once your put the clip nuts back in with a little motivation? but as for fitting better im confused?

And,,, where is this sheet metal screw going? Unlesss im having a big blonde moment im not seeing it pictured?

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Jul 06, 2009 7:21 pm

Mine is screwed about three to four inches below the bolt. Enough to keep the lower portion secured.
You will need to massage the inner fender to fit nicely against the new profile.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Mon Jul 06, 2009 11:53 pm

So, that portion of the inner fender/cab thats sticking out in my picture, im gonna 'massage' the inner fender back by prying against the tire on it, and hitting it with a BFH? Am I going to want to bolt the fender guard sheet metal thing i took loose back first, then start the massage?

How hard is it to do that? Im assuming theres nothing critical behind that portion of the fender, just foot space in the cab.

And basically the sheet metal screw is to take the place of the lowest bolt that can no longer be used. Gotcha.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Tue Jul 07, 2009 5:11 am

Massaging it up flush with the firewall. Don't try to bend the firewall or the GM glue like stuff used to seal it will break. Miles managed to break his up trimming for 33s without doing a BL.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Tue Jul 07, 2009 5:39 pm

geeze, that part sucked too. Didnt have a good enough pry bar, So i just used a 8 pound sledge. First i tired to take out the fender well shet metal guard. Then discoverd unelss i wanna unbolt half of the sutff under the hood from it, it isnt coming out. So i took some heavy wire, ran it through the bttom hole of the fender guard, to the bumper bracket, pulled it as tight as possible and secured it, so the guard was pulled back for me.

I motivated the sheet metal back some actually first tried it with the guard inplace, and all it did was distort the guard and made it look bad. But without being able to swing well at it, I did manage fairly well. I did break a inch or so of that weld stuff

But i smeared it with the window weld stuff after. Looks like it fairly flush with the fender all the way through there now.

Last question. I tried my best to bend the iner fender guard as much as I could to fit flush against the fender liek it should. I got each of em only sticking out about 1/2" from the bottom of the fender. But it takes quite a bit of force to push it against the fender.

I am gonna get some oft he sheet metal screws liek recommended, button head for low profile, and probably larger sized.

Tehres not really any palce close to the bottom of the fender I cut for the mod to bolt it SECURELY. The sheet metal there is kinda loose. Im thinking just a few inches up from that, probably 4" below the first usable bolt hole ill put a screw, since its pretty solid in there. And im thinking of putting one in the area I motivated close to the outside, so i Have as screw as low, and close the fender opening as possible. Sound good?

Im just worried the tension on the guard might pull the screw out if i dont do it in the correct spot(s).