no flares

blackZR5 · Post by **blackZR5** » Fri Feb 13, 2009 5:13 pm

does anyone have pics of their rig with the cuts made, but NO skidz flares?

i found 1 thread with a white zr5, but no finished pics. i'm looking at this possibility since the skidz are no longer available and the 6" lift is not an option, but i would really like to cram some 33's in there

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Feb 13, 2009 6:42 pm

All I have is in the install page.

blackZR5 · Post by **blackZR5** » Fri Feb 13, 2009 8:33 pm

HenryJ wrote:All I have is in the install page.

and i have read through that about 30 times now, but i'm still not sure i'm up for it... it seems a bit tricky to get all the measurements just right, and i dont want this truck to end up looking like my hack job XJ i had

the holes that are left when you remove the flares, can i cut that far up without messing up anything? if i'm not gonna use anything to put over them, i need them to be gone, so it will look real nice

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Feb 13, 2009 9:07 pm

The holes might be covered by some self adhesive vinyl matching the paint? That would be the cheapest.
It is likely that you will also have scars where the flares rub the paint. That is going to be hard to fix or cover.
Some body work and matching paint would be ideal.
There might not be an inexpensive fix that is perfect.

I have wanted to see if the late ninties Ford F-150 Bushwacker flares might work.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Fri Feb 13, 2009 9:19 pm

There are no holes left over on the front. There never were any. ZR2s may leave holes but, ours never did.

I will have to think about the rears but, the fronts are the most critical. I doubt that it will ease your mind any but, I did not know what a "sawzall" was before I joined this forum. I made the cuts and it turned out well.
Don't get bogged down on HenryJ's concepts of perfection when it comes down to finding things like the exact center of the rear wheel opening. Do your best and run with it. No one cane see both sides at the same time to criticize your work. He tries to be thoughtful and simplify the instructions for us mere mortals but, they are often intimidating.

Heck, I had to even had to ask what the he_L nirile gloves were.

If, I was asked to suggest anything towards this mod, I would suggest getting the best metal blades you can afford and practice on some scrap fenders. I never used a sawzall until I made my first cut on the cc and it turned out great.

When you get ready to pull the trigger, give us a "heads up" and feel to PM us or call on a cell ph, google talk or skype.

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Sat Feb 14, 2009 3:21 am

Even if you do the Skids Flare cuts , that alone will not be enough for 33's. You will still have to jack up your Torsion Bars in front and install a complete 2" body lift. Then a good set of rear leafspring shackles with at least 1 1/2" of lift. I did the cuts on my front fenders to clear the width of my 8 x 15 with 3 3/4" back space wheels. They rubbed the back of the fender opening at full turn.All I did was match the cuts on my stock ZR5 flares and pop revet them like the fender and put them back on, walla! no more rub. But, even with stock diameter tires they hit the top in hard bottom out of suspension.

blackZR5 · Post by **blackZR5** » Sat Feb 14, 2009 8:26 am

HenryJ wrote:There might not be an inexpensive fix that is perfect.

thats what i figured

f9k9 wrote:When you get ready to pull the trigger, give us a "heads up" and feel to PM us or call on a cell ph, google talk or skype.

i might have to do that, thanks

Horsehammerr wrote:Even if you do the Skids Flare cuts , that alone will not be enough for 33's. You will still have to jack up your Torsion Bars in front and install a complete 2" body lift. Then a good set of rear leafspring shackles with at least 1 1/2" of lift. I did the cuts on my front fenders to clear the width of my 8 x 15 with 3 3/4" back space wheels. They rubbed the back of the fender opening at full turn.All I did was match the cuts on my stock ZR5 flares and pop revet them like the fender and put them back on, walla! no more rub. But, even with stock diameter tires they hit the top in hard bottom out of suspension.

sorry, i forgot to mention that i ordered shackles, and will install them with a t bar crank and a front end alignment. the body lift i will leave to a local install shop, just b/c i dont want the headache. i have the same wheel setup as you, and with the 235's, they rub sometimes, but its tolerable... if i could get some 33's to rub as often as these do, i would not be dissatisfied

blackZR5 · Post by **blackZR5** » Sat Feb 14, 2009 8:30 am

HenryJ wrote:The holes might be covered by some self adhesive vinyl matching the paint? That would be the cheapest.
It is likely that you will also have scars where the flares rub the paint. That is going to be hard to fix or cover.
Some body work and matching paint would be ideal.
There might not be an inexpensive fix that is perfect.

I have wanted to see if the late ninties Ford F-150 Bushwacker flares might work.

i also forgot to mention... i wasnt talking about covering the holes, i was actually thinking about cutting up to them and either removing the metal or folding it back under the fender. this was how i trimmed the rear of my XJ to clear the 33x12.5 tires i had on it, with only 3" of lift. but again, i want it to look a little better than it did back then

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Feb 14, 2009 9:30 am

Cutting up to them is not needed for clearance and would add lots of difficulty to the job as you would have to create a way to reattach the inner fender panels.

If your plan is to hack up that high and wide, plan on lots of fab and body work, or a really good way to cover it all up. Then you must consider the gross difference at the front.

I think if you want to go that far the fiberglass prerunner fenders would be the best choice. Altering the glass bedsides to fit would be easier than trying to fix a big cut job there.

blackZR5 · Post by **blackZR5** » Sat Feb 14, 2009 12:18 pm

HenryJ wrote:Cutting up to them is not needed for clearance and would add lots of difficulty to the job as you would have to create a way to reattach the inner fender panels.

If your plan is to hack up that high and wide, plan on lots of fab and body work, or a really good way to cover it all up. Then you must consider the gross difference at the front.

I think if you want to go that far the fiberglass prerunner fenders would be the best choice. Altering the glass bedsides to fit would be easier than trying to fix a big cut job there.

damn

so you're saying the best bet would be to follow the skidz cuts, and just fill in the holes on the rear with some kind of filler and paint over that?

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Feb 14, 2009 12:25 pm

blackZR5 wrote:.........................so you're saying the best bet would be to follow the skidz cuts, and just fill in the holes on the rear with some kind of filler and paint over that?

That is how I took it but, I have been known to be wrong more times than right.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Feb 14, 2009 12:25 pm

It all depends upon what you want to do. "Just filler" will not stay. The holes would need to be welded first. That means body work and a paintjob. Translation: $$$$

If I were doing it on a budget, I would do the Skidz cuts, cover the holes with some good quality round vinyl patches and then have the rockers and over the wheels Line-X'd. That would cover the holes, seal the cuts and hide the rub marks from the faux rear flares.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Feb 14, 2009 12:29 pm

LineX also = $$$$ but, it is the best way to go.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Feb 14, 2009 12:45 pm

On a tight budget use paint color match vinyl stickers to hide the holes. believe it or not this is how some of the Blazers without racks are.

jflatley · Post by **jflatley** » Sun Feb 15, 2009 7:27 am

I just did the fronts of mine last weekend, I think they turned out pretty well. I did not finish them off with anything but a file, some seam sealer and a touch up paint bottle from the parts store.

http://s334.photobucket.com/albums/m410 ... mview=grid

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Feb 15, 2009 7:33 am

That looks VERY good! Well done

Just cutting the fronts you eliminate 70% of the problem. The rear fenders are tight, but will get by on 31" tires pretty easy. If you go up to 33" tires they will need the cuts as well.

Use some masking tape on the paint to keep the reciprocal saw (Sawzall) from marking the paint. This can also be used to help line out the cut.

If you guys need the Skidz templates, send me a SASE. PM for the mailing address and I'll send you a copy.

jflatley · Post by **jflatley** » Sun Feb 15, 2009 7:36 am

Thank you, yeah, I think that it will be nice to go on the beach and not have the passengers ask what that rubbing sound is.

I think I am going to keep with the 31s, I like them and they are all I need.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Feb 15, 2009 8:04 am

jflatley wrote:...I think that it will be nice to go on the beach and not have the passengers ask what that rubbing sound is.

Check out the bump stop thread. Grab a set of fullsize bumpstops for the front. That way you can really bounce that truck without rubbing the top of the fender well.
That should be all you need if you already have a good set of shocks.