NP233 front output swap/fix

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Thu Nov 17, 2005 8:14 am

OK, I need a fix for my front output shaft on my NP233 (2001 S10 crewcab). I would like to know if anyone knows exactly what years of the NP231 front output would fit into my NP233, ether from an older S10 or Jeep. Also, I've heard a few say that it is possible to drill and tap a hole in the center of the shaft and bolt the yoke/flange to it.

Right now I have a flange setup that was welded to the stock ring snap-on configuration. It works fine for trails, but vibrates chatters too much for road use. This is the flange setup I use nowthat just snaps on the stock NP233 output shaft. I was originally setup by Tom Woods, and worked fine when I had the 5" TM lift, but now that I am Solid front, no good for the road.

I am really looking for a solution. I want to be able to run 4x4 on the road, cause I like doing volunteer work when/if we get snow blizzards.

gocntry · Post by **gocntry** » Thu Nov 17, 2005 8:54 am

Is It Possible To Take The Driveshaft & Yoke Setup And Have Them Balanced?? Could That Help The Vibration At All?

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Thu Nov 17, 2005 1:06 pm

No, nothing wrong with the shaft. It's the inherant slop/play in the ring snap-on shaft design, the shaft itself is solid. It was fine with the relatively low angle of the IFS, but with solid axle the u-joint causes to much chatter at the angle. I can feel the slop with my hand.

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Fri Nov 18, 2005 7:28 am

I think I got some good answers of the s10extreme site. I will be getting a first gen NP233 with the fixed bolt on yoke front output and swapping the front output with mine. Sounds easy enough! lol

gocntry · Post by **gocntry** » Fri Nov 18, 2005 7:44 am

Quickbiker,

How's Your Truck Work After The SAS?. Are Your Front Hubs Manual Engaging And The Transfer Case Is Still Electronic With The Push Button?

EDIT: Also What About The 4 Wheel ABS System. Is It Just Disconnected?

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Nov 18, 2005 7:45 am

Keep us informed on the parts needed, costs and difficulty of the swap.
That may be a good swap in the future for many of us when the stock front shaft degrades.

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Fri Nov 18, 2005 8:15 pm

gocntry wrote:Quickbiker,

How's Your Truck Work After The SAS?. Are Your Front Hubs Manual Engaging And The Transfer Case Is Still Electronic With The Push Button?

EDIT: Also What About The 4 Wheel ABS System. Is It Just Disconnected?

Good questions. Many of questions I've asked before I went SAS and nobody seems to answer, lol. My truck works great, I love it so far. I did have to go back for some tweaking and re-do work. All re-do work was done free of course and I did get the front and rear leafs stiffened up, cause it was too spongy before. Now it's great on the road. I just need to take on a good trail ride. Kinda sucked, cause while it was getting some re-do work done, I missed a ride I've been wanting to go on for a long time. Oh well. I did test it out though at a friends place on a horse ranch. I got it to max flex and took my clearance to the max, it is really unbelievable, like it feels invincible. The guy warned me about that though, he said be carefull. I did back out of a dare though, it was very off-camber and I just don't have a good enough feel for it yet.

Yea, I got manual hubs on the front and still have the electronic shift. I plugged up the vacuum line for the stock front. Although I prefer manual engagement, the button has always worked well and gives my may console space for my CB, so I don't feel the necessity to change it. No more ABS. The combination of the brakes work incredibly well though, it seem to stop on a dime. I do get some dive though, inherant with reverse shackle, but it does driver excellent on the highway, even at high speeds. I have no steering stablizer, and it's steady as a rock.

It seems like I actually get a bit better mileage than before. I figure that's cause I got manual hubs and all the front drive train drag is not there when the hubs are free and the 4.88 gears are right in the "sweet" spot for 35's.

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Fri Nov 18, 2005 8:16 pm

HenryJ wrote:Keep us informed on the parts needed, costs and difficulty of the swap.
That may be a good swap in the future for many of us when the stock front shaft degrades.

I'll try. I've kinda been getting lazy on write-ups lately.

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Sun Aug 13, 2006 6:53 pm

OK, I finally did it. It was way easier than I figured, especially since I got rid of the crossmember that was in the way.

Here is my splot on it.

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Aug 14, 2006 1:11 pm

Nice write-up , Thanks

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Mon Aug 14, 2006 2:47 pm

No probo. Ugh, I know someone will benefit. Everything seems impossible till the pieces fall together. Knowledge is power!

kauaibuilt47 · Post by **kauaibuilt47** » Tue Aug 15, 2006 2:31 am

I was waiting for your write up - thanks for being the guinea pig on this project. I was gonna do it but I think Im gonna go w/ a STaK instead. I like having to shift into 4 so I know Im in it.

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Wed Aug 16, 2006 5:03 pm

Guess you mean a stick? I was thinking of just swapping in a 231, but I've really not had any problems with mine and I got my CB on the center and wouldn't have anywhere else to put it. And it was the most easy fix.

kauaibuilt47 · Post by **kauaibuilt47** » Thu Aug 17, 2006 2:02 am

STaK. Kinda like an Atlas. Twin stick, gear driven. Gonna cost an arm and a leg though. BUT, cheaper than an atlas and comes stock w/ 32 sp F/R outputs and some things that are Atlas add-ons. Google it.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Thu Aug 17, 2006 3:22 am

STaK 4X4

Interesting site and some good videos

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Thu Aug 17, 2006 4:25 pm

, nice but just way overkill. My gearing is way low enough now, especially with an auto and 4.88's. And 231's are a dime a dozen.

kauaibuilt47 · Post by **kauaibuilt47** » Fri Aug 18, 2006 1:39 am

yeah, Im re-evaluating the cost and may go w/ a 231 or 241 w/ an adapter. Had some family issues come up lately.

My truck is a long way of from being that hard core. I was looking at your build, mines similar w/ the main difference being the springs used and I got a waggy rear D44. I was even planning on cutting the back of the bed for better departure angle - more like an angle compared to yours being straight.

kauaibuilt47 · Post by **kauaibuilt47** » Fri Aug 18, 2006 7:18 am

Quickbiker - What kind of off-roading do you do and how do the 44's hold up to the 35" tires? I also lurk over on pirate and anything less than a 60 or 14FF sucks to them.

I do a little bit of everything - mud, rocks, trails, sand, snow - and am wondering if I should start looking at upgrading or keep what I got. Im not crazy on the go juice.

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Fri Aug 18, 2006 6:18 pm

Well, you know how opinions go, so here's mine. Those guys on pirate 4x4 are the extremists, and yes, if you troll that site and see what I mean, yea, they do need at least 60's. My end goal has always been to ride on 35's, and anything can break, but 44's are said to be good up to 35's. Now there are many variables in that equations, such as what type of 44, driver style, locker style, etc.

I checked the on doing my rig on 60's just for bullet proof strength, but the cost diff is like between a 231 and a STaK. 44's are a dime a dozen. And, if ya get a 60, unless you want full width, it's gotta be narrowed. Then the cost of the guts is more also. 44's are probably the most common axle out there, way easy to get part and wide variety of choices.

Using a Detroit in the rear, it's a bit harder on the axles, but you'll never bind the axles up for a snap. And I like selectable up front, cause I run it mostly unlocked for care free turning and select it only when I need it, and then only when I am going straight. When I have to turn, even if I need it, I shutem off, cause that's when a u-joint can snap. It's all in the mechanics of it, use common sense and it'll do just fine. And choosed an air locker and you'll have a compressor to air up after a run.

kauaibuilt47 · Post by **kauaibuilt47** » Sat Aug 19, 2006 2:31 am

Thanks. Its nice to hear the voice of reason bringing me back to earth every once in a while. Even lurking around pirate will get you thinking that you need way more than you really do.

I still want the STaK but like you said, I dont plan on going over 35's and NEVER plan on being part of the pirate crew. And w/ current family/military issues I dont think Ill be able to spend that $2,000+ for a t-case. I even had to cancel my Harley order - 2007 Softail standard for $13,500 delivered.....AHHHHH!

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Sat Aug 19, 2006 8:47 am

Argh, I feel your pain. 16 years ago when I was overseas, I also had a Softtail on order, but cancelled and settled for a Sporty. I also still have that same Sporty and have customized it throught the years to my liking. That's the best way to buy vehicles. Got my truck the same way. Keep your head low! And get back saftely!

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Tue Aug 22, 2006 1:45 am

Got my new long travel woody in. They make great shafts.