I've already done somewhat of a how-to on this subject before for a 1st gen.. (http://www.pghconsulting.net/howto) This is my second gen one... I don't have some pics, I will add those when it warms up.
Tools Needed:
10mm socket
13mm socket
Drill (Depends on your current center console)
Wire Crimper and butt connectors
T25 Torx
T20 Torx
4.5mm socket (or equivilent reverse torx)
10mm box wrench
Flathead screwdriver
hammer
Parts Needed
Console
Shifter
Misc nuts (try to get the originals that came with it)
washers
Shifter Cable (GM Part # 15713353)
Steering wheel cowl (upper and lower) from a manual shift truck w/ tilt steering (or without tilt if you don't have tilt, get appropriate cowl)
Wiring: Instructions and clarifications at the end of this how-to
Remove old center console. There will be 2 nuts under the arm reset compartment, use a 10mm socket to remove these, then there is a nut to remove under the cup holders, the front just pops off it's clips.
If you have the center console that has the 2 cup holders mounted lenghth wise, then no drilling is required...
Turn the plate so that the wider end is facing towards the front of the truck, there is already a hole there that will fit on the stud that the cup hold section of your old console was on. (Note: You may have to take some of the bow out of the mounting plate to level it right so that the console will sit flush on the carpet, put it on the ground and use a hammer) Use the original nut and tighten down... Trust me that plate won't move. (For those of you with the wide front console where the cup holders are side by side and the retaining nut is under the tray, you will need to drill holes.. Just premount your console and shifter and mark where it needs to be drilled... Use lag bolts to hold it in, see http://www.pghconsulting.net/howto on how to do that)
Mounting Plate:
Disconnect your old shifter cable. This will require removing the bottom portion of your steering wheel cowl. Use a t20 torx. You will see where it mounts just below the column shift mechanism. Simply use a flat head screwdriver to pop it off. (Be sure to remove the U clip on there 1st, you will need that clip later) Disconnect the other end from the shifter plate on the detent rod on the tranny. (Use a flat head screwdriver to pop it off) Lift up the driver side carpet and you will see the cable w/grommet going through the floorboard.. Pull that grommet and pull the cable through into the car (or out of the car, your choice) You may have to remove the bracket on the transfer case holding the cable to move it.
(note: this is a first gen picture, but applies to the second gen as well)
Put the new cable in the same way just in reverse, but do not hook it up to the transmission yet. Route the cable under the carpet and through a hole in front of where you mounted the shifter.
Put the shifter on top of the plate and add washers to the rear stud to level it out...Just keep loosely putting on the console till it looks like the shifter gear indicator is flush with the console, and the console is flush with the carpet. Secure the shifter to the plate.
Run the cable through the hole in the shifter frame and attach it to the ball-stuf. Insert the U clip into into the base so it doesn't slip out.
Secure the console to the shifter and hump. Use the 2 10mm bolts in the cup holders for the front half, and the 2 10mm nuts under the arm rest compartment to secure it to the original support studs from your old console...
With your emergency brake on, move the shifter into neutral.
Underneath your truck, move the shift plate into neutral. Squueze the adjuster and move the cable end itself until you can put it onto the shifter plate. Release the adjuster and push the retainer back into place. (This is like doing a kick down cable adjustment) From inside the car, start the car and move through all gears. If more adjustment is required, do again what you just did on the adjustment.
Replace your steering wheel cowl
You already have the bottom cowl off, now if you look under you will see a reverse torx that is very small towards the steering wheel, use a 4.5mm socket or equivelent to remove, there is also another one in the middle of the setup.
Using a flathead screwdriver, carefully pry the cap off of your ignition switch (you can't remove the cowl without doing this)
Set aside. Lift top cowl off.
(Note put all the following parts aside so that you can always put it back on if you decide to put the column shifter back on)
Remove the column shifter with a t25 torx. Behind the shifter assembly attached to a ball arm, is a 10mm bolt. Remove this. Using a screwdriver and a hammer, tap it off. Using a t20 torx, remove the shifter assembly from the column, you will see 3 torx screws holding it on.
You now will see a sire running over the top of the column from the lock to inside the dash, remove this. (This locks the shifter when the key is off and prevents you from removing the key if the car is in gear, so it must go).
Install new cowl, put lock cap back on (you may want to tap it on with a hammer, won't do any damage)
Put lower cowl on..
You will end up with this:
Wiring:
You should have a wiring pigtail as shown with the above shifter.
Black-Ground
Gray-Parking Light 12v positive
(This gives you light on the shifter, check to see if bulb is good, or replace with preferred color.. I used an APC blue 19)
Shift-interlock:
You can either zip-tie it as shown above, or run the following:
Pink-12v+accessory
This will lock the shifter in park when the car is off and release it when the car is turned on.
Safety Neutral/Reverse Lights/Dash Lights
None of these will be affected as they are controlled by by a switch on the side of your transmission. So you will still retain the dash PRODD21 lights, as well as your safety neurtal switch and reverse lights. No additional wiring is needed..
I hope this helps you guys. Total installation time was 2 hours.
PM me if you need clarification!
