Vararam "velocity stack"
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Vararam "velocity stack"
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Im not sure if that will work with out setting the awful SES light. In your picture there are 2 smaller holes towards the top of the big hole. Those are for computer controlled air flow (can get more detailed if need be) It looks like the black part covers them up. My guess is that the SES light would be on shortly after you put it on. Personally I wouldnt do it. But if you want to, knock your socks off.
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Looks like there might be enough of a gap at the bottom for those holes to get some air.
I've had several people tell me that the throttle body spacers that have the spiral grooves in them to "spin" the air as it goes into the throttle body worked pretty well for them -- anyone else?
I've had several people tell me that the throttle body spacers that have the spiral grooves in them to "spin" the air as it goes into the throttle body worked pretty well for them -- anyone else?
[size=75]Thanks, CHRIS
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
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The holes do not need to be all that big for the computer to be able to regulate the idle speed. I was worried about a similar problem on my Impala when I put on an airfoil in the throttle body that almost completely covered the idle air control hole. I would say that the hole was reduced from 1/2" to 1/8" with no problems. I can't say for sure that this will work for the Vortec V-6, but I don't think it would be a problem.adrenalnjunky wrote:Looks like there might be enough of a gap at the bottom for those holes to get some air.
I've had several people tell me that the throttle body spacers that have the spiral grooves in them to "spin" the air as it goes into the throttle body worked pretty well for them -- anyone else?
As far as the throttle body spacers with spiral grooves that supposedly make more power and torque, you would be better off using a smooth bore spacer instead because the air can't spin anyway due to the throttle blade being in the way. I have heard from some people that using the spiral grooved spacers will make a whistling noise. Overall a spiral spacer will not make more power than a smooth spacer, and if anything it will create more turbulence, which you don't want!
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I realize that this is taken a little out of context, but turbulence in a combustion chamber (and intake on wet manifolds) can be an advantage.killian96ss wrote:...Overall a spiral spacer will not make more power than a smooth spacer, and if anything it will create more turbulence, which you don't want!
It keeps the fuel better atomized.
Just a thought I do agree that the "swirling" under the TB may actually effectively reduce the efficiency of the opening, though I have seen no ill effects and since the EGR gasses are introduced at this point, the swirled spacer may actually help to mix them?
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dammit -- where's a fluid dynamics engineer when you need one?
[size=75]Thanks, CHRIS
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
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Well if you got one that quickly, you must be the exception rather than the rule Rumor has it that they are in such high demand that it takes better than two weeks before they even ship.Warnoffroad wrote: alright, i just got mine in the mail 30 seconds ago, now you get to order yours and tell me how you like it
Either that or it is such a small company that they take quite a while to process an order.
Those are the rumors anyway.
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When you say wet manifold are you refering to carbureted engines that mix the fuel and air in the middle of the venturies? I have actually experimented with this on several Chevy V-8's with carburetors. I agree that turbulence in the combustion chamber is good, but turbulence in the intake can cause uneven cylinder distribution. Good atomization will result from a higher velocity through the venturies, and fuel discharge tubes placed more towards the center of the venturies. Velocity stacks and flow smoothing plates on top of a carburetor will atomize the air and fuel better and make more power. I also agree that the swirling of the EGR gases would probably distribute them more evenly. The only way to know for sure about the Vararam TB insert and TB spacer plates would be to test several of them on someones truck with a dyno. This would have to be done on just one truck and one dyno, becuse there can be too many differences between trucks and dynos. IMO the smoother the whole intake process can be the better, and the same goes for the exhaust side.HenryJ wrote:I realize that this is taken a little out of context, but turbulence in a combustion chamber (and intake on wet manifolds) can be an advantage.It keeps the fuel better atomized.
Just a thought I do agree that the "swirling" under the TB may actually effectively reduce the efficiency of the opening, though I have seen no ill effects and since the EGR gasses are introduced at this point, the swirled spacer may actually help to mix them?
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Yes and TBI units, any of them where the fuel enters at the top of the intake manifold.killian96ss wrote: When you say wet manifold are you refering to carbureted engines that mix the fuel and air in the middle of the venturies?...
I agree with all you said and would add that surface turbulence in the intake manifold is better than polished for a wet manifold. They used to think that polishing the inside of an intake benifited the velocity, and it does , however the fuel tends to condense on the smooth surface, therefore a dimpled surface, even rough cast had better qualities.
I have seen dimpled combustion chamber designs that were very effective.
This really doesn't apply to this topic, but I find it interesting.
Basically (to get back on topic) velocity to the cylinders...stir it all up good ...and light it
I'm really tempted to try this "Vararam thing" just to see if it makes any difference.
All the "talk" is that it boosts torque, which would be nice with the mods that I have. It seems to me, when trying to think this through, that it would be more effective for WOT, although then it may just serve to reduce the TB bore size and prove a restriction? But then you have to take into consideration the venturi effect creating a low pressure zone behind the opening creating a draw that may very well exceed the stock sized performance. I am no expert and do not have the equipment , or knowledge to test this. I mostly rely on experience of others or, trial and error.
Last edited by HenryJ on Thu Jan 08, 2004 8:47 am, edited 3 times in total.
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Well, I'm thinking of wiring my leaf blower up to a power inverter and plugging a hose from it into my intake -- think that would help??
(Yes it's a joke.)
Although I have heard of electric superchargers in the past.....
(Yes it's a joke.)
Although I have heard of electric superchargers in the past.....
[size=75]Thanks, CHRIS
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
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What is the CFM your leaf blower moves? How much power does it require (amps) ?adrenalnjunky wrote:Well, I'm thinking of wiring my leaf blower up to a power inverter and plugging a hose from it into my intake -- think that would help??
Usually the problem is that it takes more power to run the blower than any boost in performance that is produced.
The higher electrical load takes HP from the engine through alternator drag.
Although, through the use of superconductors and brushless motors, perhaps a perpetual motion machine is possible?
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To quote an episode from The Simpsons where Lisa had created a Perpetual Motion machine.....
[homer]"There will be no defying the laws of physics in this house young lady!!"[/homer]
[homer]"There will be no defying the laws of physics in this house young lady!!"[/homer]
[size=75]Thanks, CHRIS
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
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When I did this to my Impala ( TB airfoil ) I actually gained 9hp and 13ft. pounds of torque! This was verified on a dyno with before and after numbers. The Vararam should give us something, but how much can only be determined with a dyno. I have also found that manufacturers seem to rate their products a little higher than what they really produce. As an example the airfoil that I installed claimed 12-15hp and 15-20ft. pounds of torque.HenryJ wrote:I'm really tempted to try this "Vararam thing" just to see if it makes any difference.
All the "talk" is that it boosts torque, which would be nice with the mods that I have.
Does anybody have any interest in getting one of these and running a dyno on it? More importantly... does anybody still have an un-modded airbox to do it with?
I'd love to know if this thing works. Because on the outside it looks like a gimmick much similar to the other gimmick's running around (anybody remember the multi-million dollar fine on Slick-50?). I'm usually skeptic, but this looks like it may just have promise.
So has anybody actually purchased one?
I'd love to know if this thing works. Because on the outside it looks like a gimmick much similar to the other gimmick's running around (anybody remember the multi-million dollar fine on Slick-50?). I'm usually skeptic, but this looks like it may just have promise.
So has anybody actually purchased one?
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The dyno used was for RWHP, but the numbers were already recalculated for drivetrain loss with my 4L60E and 10 bolt rear. The problem here is that dyno numbers do vary from one to another. I guess it is possible that the manufacturer got their numbers from a different style dyno. This is why we need a truck that is stock to get baseline numbers, and then start adding parts. The dyno used would have to be the same one throughout all the tests to make sure the numbers are correct.AZS10Crew wrote:They may be talking flywheel instead of RWHP also. 9HP at the wheels would be 11-12 at the engine...which is closer to their claim.
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Looking at that thang again. I really don't think it causes much turbulance more than it causes higher velocity, hence the name. Just take for example a water hose with water running out of it. Make the end of that water hose smaller and the velocity goes higher, it shoots further. I think that's the whole point of it. The mixture will be intraduced into the intake manifold at higher velocity per volume of gas. I can see where it would produce more power and use less gas. I'm up for one.
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Links to Vararam discussion on other forums:
S-10Planet.com- Someone had to do it- Vararam ! , and Vararam and SES light
S10Fourm.com- Vararam?
S-seriesforum.com- VR Velocity Stacks
S-10Planet.com- Someone had to do it- Vararam ! , and Vararam and SES light
S10Fourm.com- Vararam?
S-seriesforum.com- VR Velocity Stacks
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
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That I dont know, they must be small because ive never heard of it.HenryJ wrote:Well if you got one that quickly, you must be the exception rather than the rule Rumor has it that they are in such high demand that it takes better than two weeks before they even ship.Warnoffroad wrote: alright, i just got mine in the mail 30 seconds ago, now you get to order yours and tell me how you like it
Either that or it is such a small company that they take quite a while to process an order.
Those are the rumors anyway.
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Great way to put it, but does our motor suck air fast enough to get that affect?quickbiker wrote:Looking at that thang again. I really don't think it causes much turbulance more than it causes higher velocity, hence the name. Just take for example a water hose with water running out of it. Make the end of that water hose smaller and the velocity goes higher, it shoots further. I think that's the whole point of it. The mixture will be intraduced into the intake manifold at higher velocity per volume of gas. I can see where it would produce more power and use less gas. I'm up for one.
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05 F-350 CC FX4 Diesel, 7" lift 37" toyos, 14.18 1/4 mile ET[/size]
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Oh yeah it does.....
One day I was washing my Z24's engine bay -- and I had a RS Akimoto Intake system with a big cone-style filter on the end. I had taken a plastic wal-mart bag and wrapped it around the filter instead of taking it off. I finished washing the car and had dropped the hood. Well, it came time to move the car and I had forgotten about the bag. I cranked the motor and I knew instantly it didn't sound right, and I don't think I even let the motor completely crank before I turned the key off.
Pop the hood and that walmart bag had shrink-wrapped itself to my K&N filter and crushed the filter like a beer can around the middle.
That was the 2.4 Twincam, I'm assuming our 4.3's would require at least the same amount of airflow.
One day I was washing my Z24's engine bay -- and I had a RS Akimoto Intake system with a big cone-style filter on the end. I had taken a plastic wal-mart bag and wrapped it around the filter instead of taking it off. I finished washing the car and had dropped the hood. Well, it came time to move the car and I had forgotten about the bag. I cranked the motor and I knew instantly it didn't sound right, and I don't think I even let the motor completely crank before I turned the key off.
Pop the hood and that walmart bag had shrink-wrapped itself to my K&N filter and crushed the filter like a beer can around the middle.
That was the 2.4 Twincam, I'm assuming our 4.3's would require at least the same amount of airflow.
[size=75]Thanks, CHRIS
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
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Near as I can calculate at 1000 rpm the 4.3L will consume 1.1576033 cubic feet of air per second and at 5600 rpm redline 6.4825786 cubic feet of air per second.Warnoffroad wrote:...but does our motor suck air fast enough to get that affect?
Just an FYI by my calculation method the 4.3L should need a maximum of 389 CFM at 5600 rpm. The stock air box not including piping contains approximately .18 cubic feet of airspace. That means that the air in the box is completely changed 36 times per second at redline
Last edited by HenryJ on Thu Jan 08, 2004 8:41 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Has anyone talked to their customer service dept. about a group discount? I want to get one, but I am still curious about the performance increase with this part. Has anyone on the CC forum actually installed one of these. The links on the other S10 forums have mixed opinions on the Vararam. Is anyone willing to test one first?marks10cc wrote:Well... after reading the reviews, looks like a good deal for $30. Considering 85% of my driving is below 3K RPM's, this should be a really good deal for me.
Group Buy anyone?
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I am willing to try one "first".killian96ss wrote:... Is anyone willing to test one first?
I do not have access to a dyno, but can offer an opinion, and mileage results.
One problem is that I am nowhere near stock, and results for others may be different.
Oh, one more thing, it takes me quite a while to get the mileages, since I usually don't fill up more than every 450 miles or so.
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for only $30 doesnt seem like a bad mod if our trucks pull that much air that fast. As you can tell i need all the power I can get , just hope its not another T/B spacer.
Good luck Brule!! let us know when you order it and how long it takes to get
Good luck Brule!! let us know when you order it and how long it takes to get
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So, I guess I open my big mouth and become the "guinea pig" again?
I guess it does have a moneyback guarantee, so I'll only be out the shipping/handling charges
Are you sure no one else wants to test this? It would have to wait until I get a feel for the NGK Irridium plugs that are being tested now.
I guess it does have a moneyback guarantee, so I'll only be out the shipping/handling charges
Are you sure no one else wants to test this? It would have to wait until I get a feel for the NGK Irridium plugs that are being tested now.
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I've always been under the impression that a pressurized intake needs volume rather than flow characteristics.KCustom wrote:I wonder if would help or hurt on a motor with a supercharger......
However, a good flowing system builds less pressure (that causes heat) and more horsepower.
I would think it would be less effective under boost, but I'm no expert.
I'm still REALLY skeptical that it works at all
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Thanks for the info....I sent you and e-mail asking how to post pics and about your hood...
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ill bet it really only works at 4000+ rpms if at allHenryJ wrote:I've always been under the impression that a pressurized intake needs volume rather than flow characteristics.KCustom wrote:I wonder if would help or hurt on a motor with a supercharger......
However, a good flowing system builds less pressure (that causes heat) and more horsepower.
I would think it would be less effective under boost, but I'm no expert.
I'm still REALLY skeptical that it works at all
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Warnoffroad wrote:ill bet it really only works at 4000+ rpms if at all
The website says "throughout"Vararam website wrote:Features:
* Designed to produce power and torque throughout the RPM range
* Increases throttle response
* Increases gas mileage
* Increases acceleration
* Installs in just minutes!
* A patent-pending design!
* Eliminates the need for a ported throttle-body by smoothing and reshaping the throttle-body entrance to increase the incoming air velocity at each given RPM
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Poweraid also says there T/B spacer worksHenryJ wrote:Warnoffroad wrote:ill bet it really only works at 4000+ rpms if at allThe website says "throughout"Vararam website wrote:Features:
* Designed to produce power and torque throughout the RPM range
* Increases throttle response
* Increases gas mileage
* Increases acceleration
* Installs in just minutes!
* A patent-pending design!
* Eliminates the need for a ported throttle-body by smoothing and reshaping the throttle-body entrance to increase the incoming air velocity at each given RPM
Truckin suspension says there s-10 kits are better then TM, so far QBs has WAY out lasted mine. Just a little something to think about
[size=75]02 ZR5 CC, SFA D44 front, D60 rear, 40" IROKs, np200 2nd t-case. SOLD
05 F-350 CC FX4 Diesel, 7" lift 37" toyos, 14.18 1/4 mile ET[/size]
05 F-350 CC FX4 Diesel, 7" lift 37" toyos, 14.18 1/4 mile ET[/size]
- HenryJ
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Ok, you talked me out of it, now who are you going to get to try it?
EDIT:PSYCH! It took three working days to arrive, so service was really good. I ordered on Friday and received it on Tuesday.
I'll install it this weekend and see what it does.
EDIT:PSYCH! It took three working days to arrive, so service was really good. I ordered on Friday and received it on Tuesday.
I'll install it this weekend and see what it does.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
- HenryJ
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It would probably install in less than five minutes for a stock intake tube.
With the FIPK some trimming/grinding was needed to fit inside the K&N TB adapter.
I installed it and opened the throttle to check clearances. There was a slight interference on the right side, so I removed it and filed the bevel slightly.
Sure seems like it is too simple to work, but I can see how it would smooth the flow and perhaps create a low pressure zone behind the throttle blade.
Time will tell, I have yet to start it. I'll fill the fuel tanks , check the new plugs mileage, and see how it works tomorrow:D
With the FIPK some trimming/grinding was needed to fit inside the K&N TB adapter.
I installed it and opened the throttle to check clearances. There was a slight interference on the right side, so I removed it and filed the bevel slightly.
Sure seems like it is too simple to work, but I can see how it would smooth the flow and perhaps create a low pressure zone behind the throttle blade.
Time will tell, I have yet to start it. I'll fill the fuel tanks , check the new plugs mileage, and see how it works tomorrow:D
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
I read over the webpage and reviews again. It looks like this only works at engine speeds below 3K. After that, the vacuum of the engine can overpower the 'whole' casued by the TB design negating the turbulence caused. So, my question is, do you notice any difference while cruising? I doubt this will add power, or HP, but I'm starting to believe that it could increase MPG's while cruising. 1/2 of my trip is highway, so I'm still interested in this little plastic thingy.
- quickbiker
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Yea, you're right. Most rpm's are between 1500 - 2500, at least with me it is.marks10cc wrote:I read over the webpage and reviews again. It looks like this only works at engine speeds below 3K. After that, the vacuum of the engine can overpower the 'whole' casued by the TB design negating the turbulence caused. So, my question is, do you notice any difference while cruising? I doubt this will add power, or HP, but I'm starting to believe that it could increase MPG's while cruising. 1/2 of my trip is highway, so I'm still interested in this little plastic thingy.
[size=75][url=http://outsideventure.com/s10crew/]01 S10 Crewcab - SAS'd[/url][/size]
- HenryJ
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Update
Well even with the winter weather we've been having , I think that this has indeed increased the gas mileage slightly.
This is only the first fill-up (425 mi.) since the install, so results are preliminary, and all the driving was city , with very little highway cruising.
Gas mileage increased .5 mpg over the last tank of fuel, before installing the Vararam.
At $1.78 per gallon for fuel ("plus", mid-grade) it would break even in 7550 miles. So, after a year it should have paid for itself.
As for performance, well...not really helping. It isn't a loss and might be slightly better below 3000 rpm, but nothing that "stands out".
Summary: So far fuel economy looks promising, performance is unchanged.
This is only the first fill-up (425 mi.) since the install, so results are preliminary, and all the driving was city , with very little highway cruising.
Gas mileage increased .5 mpg over the last tank of fuel, before installing the Vararam.
At $1.78 per gallon for fuel ("plus", mid-grade) it would break even in 7550 miles. So, after a year it should have paid for itself.
As for performance, well...not really helping. It isn't a loss and might be slightly better below 3000 rpm, but nothing that "stands out".
Summary: So far fuel economy looks promising, performance is unchanged.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
- HenryJ
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Well the gas mileage dropped this last tank of fuel, negating the increases seen in the previous tank of fuel.
After two fill-ups and 835 mi. the average was .25 mpg less than the usual average.
I am now in the last phase of testing. I have removed the Vararam and will be confirming any increase/decrease that occurs.
After two fill-ups and 835 mi. the average was .25 mpg less than the usual average.
I am now in the last phase of testing. I have removed the Vararam and will be confirming any increase/decrease that occurs.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
- quickbiker
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Have you taken into account the wind direction and the wind velocity in conjuction with your speed and the temperature and the humidity?HenryJ wrote:Well the gas mileage dropped this last tank of fuel, negating the increases seen in the previous tank of fuel.
After two fill-ups and 835 mi. the average was .25 mpg less than the usual average.
I am now in the last phase of testing. I have removed the Vararam and will be confirming any increase/decrease that occurs.
[size=75][url=http://outsideventure.com/s10crew/]01 S10 Crewcab - SAS'd[/url][/size]
- HenryJ
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Well, not individually... no.quickbiker wrote:Have you taken into account the wind direction and the wind velocity in conjuction with your speed and the temperature and the humidity?
As this is not a very scientifically sound test, I just thought I'd give it as much time as possible to average the results and come to some kind of reproduceable conclusion.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
- HenryJ
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Mileage is back upHenryJ wrote:I am now in the last phase of testing. I have removed the Vararam and will be confirming any increase/decrease that occurs.
I would NOT recommend the Vararam. The very minor increases in performance that "may" have been felt in the mid to low end, are negated by the loss of mileage.
It will sit on the shelf as a learning experience (cheaper than college tuition )
When I aquire a better method of testing the effects ( Autotap ) , I may give it another try.
Anyone interested in buying a slightly used Vararam?
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
- 2bunik
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thanx for testing the nifty plastic product out.. It is very unfortunate that it didn't work out. It could have been great.. I think there should be a list of products that are not recomended.. Well on to another plastic thingy..
[size=75]TARMAC TRENDZ car club
2003 GMC Zr5 maroon or somethingto it.
Two 10s in a custom box and Pioneer Premier 400w amp, Quad mod,Body lift, bed light.
http://www.tarmactrendz.vze.com/[/size]
2003 GMC Zr5 maroon or somethingto it.
Two 10s in a custom box and Pioneer Premier 400w amp, Quad mod,Body lift, bed light.
http://www.tarmactrendz.vze.com/[/size]