2" raised Westin Signature Series step bars
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- HenryJ
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2" raised Westin Signature Series step bars
I thought there was already a thread on raising the step bars, but I searched and was unable to find it (might have been in the archives of the old forum).
Here goes, I selected the Westin Signature Series step bars because the bars are easily raised. One bolt attaches them to the mounting bracket.
For the front bracket I used a piece of .250 3"x4" angle iron 4" long.
The rear I just attached the mounts supplied. Then I parked on a good fairly level surface and used jack stands to hold the bar in place while I marked where it lined up, leaving 3/4"-1" clearance below the rocker panel pinch weld.
The front mounts just required drilling holes. For the rear I cut off the excess and using the supplied front mounts cut and welded them to sandwich between the rear mount and bar tying into the front spring eye bolt for support.
Gussets could be added to the front mounts , but the rear mounts offer enough support for me.
I have the pictures on my page HERE
Here goes, I selected the Westin Signature Series step bars because the bars are easily raised. One bolt attaches them to the mounting bracket.
For the front bracket I used a piece of .250 3"x4" angle iron 4" long.
The rear I just attached the mounts supplied. Then I parked on a good fairly level surface and used jack stands to hold the bar in place while I marked where it lined up, leaving 3/4"-1" clearance below the rocker panel pinch weld.
The front mounts just required drilling holes. For the rear I cut off the excess and using the supplied front mounts cut and welded them to sandwich between the rear mount and bar tying into the front spring eye bolt for support.
Gussets could be added to the front mounts , but the rear mounts offer enough support for me.
I have the pictures on my page HERE
Last edited by HenryJ on Tue May 13, 2008 2:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
OK. I'm going to have to do this. I can't stand to see the frame hanging down below the body, and these will hide it.
Is the only front connection point the body mount? And the rear is only the body mount and the spring bolt? Do they flex any when your full weight is applied? Where did you get them (online or shop)? Did I ask enough questions?
Is the only front connection point the body mount? And the rear is only the body mount and the spring bolt? Do they flex any when your full weight is applied? Where did you get them (online or shop)? Did I ask enough questions?
[size=75][url=http://f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mikeh3235/lst?.dir=/&.src=ph&.done=http%3a//f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mikeh3235/lst%3f%26.dir=/2002%2bGMC%2bCrew%2bCab-Spacers%26.src=ph%26.view=l&.view=l]Yahoo Photo Pages[/url]
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- HenryJ
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Here is a thread from the old forum :Re: Tube steps
I bought mine through AZtruck , but that was a long time ago and have since seen them cheaper. The price on shipping was good from AZ for me.
They do hide the frame really well. Your eye is drawn to the bar rather than the exposed frame. Keep in mind that I have wider than usual flares. The bars tuck in nicely with them. I'm not sure if they would look like they stick out without them. Although Steven had them also and did similar mounts.
They do mount using the body mount bolts. I think that I had to get a pair of slightly longer ones for the front mounts. On the rear I had to get two longer bolts to mount through the brackets into the tube, but reused the bodymount bolts. They are barely long enough and there are no longer bolts the right length available. I did lots of searching, but only low grade bolts are available and you must use at least 8.8 (metric).
They are strong , as nerfs go. I have used a handy man (hijacker) jack to raise the truck at the rear of the bars with just a little flexing. I weigh just under 200 lbs and can jump on them with no problems.
One more thing I did was to get a couple cans of the high expansion foam. wrap tape around the threaded inserts (to protect the threads), then cut disks of card board and using masking tape sealed both ends. Punch a hole in each end and filled them from one end until the foam came out the other.
This adds a little structural strength and more importantly quiets them. You don't get that ringing sound everytime a rock hits them. It may also help to avoid condensation and water from accumulating inside.
I bought mine through AZtruck , but that was a long time ago and have since seen them cheaper. The price on shipping was good from AZ for me.
They do hide the frame really well. Your eye is drawn to the bar rather than the exposed frame. Keep in mind that I have wider than usual flares. The bars tuck in nicely with them. I'm not sure if they would look like they stick out without them. Although Steven had them also and did similar mounts.
They do mount using the body mount bolts. I think that I had to get a pair of slightly longer ones for the front mounts. On the rear I had to get two longer bolts to mount through the brackets into the tube, but reused the bodymount bolts. They are barely long enough and there are no longer bolts the right length available. I did lots of searching, but only low grade bolts are available and you must use at least 8.8 (metric).
They are strong , as nerfs go. I have used a handy man (hijacker) jack to raise the truck at the rear of the bars with just a little flexing. I weigh just under 200 lbs and can jump on them with no problems.
One more thing I did was to get a couple cans of the high expansion foam. wrap tape around the threaded inserts (to protect the threads), then cut disks of card board and using masking tape sealed both ends. Punch a hole in each end and filled them from one end until the foam came out the other.
This adds a little structural strength and more importantly quiets them. You don't get that ringing sound everytime a rock hits them. It may also help to avoid condensation and water from accumulating inside.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
Re: 2" raised Westin Signature Series step bars
Where do you get your steel for projects things like that? Home Depot, etc., only carry it up to about 2x2x3/16. Do you have it at work, go to a scrap yard, or what? We have a few steel yards here, but I think if I went to one and asked to buy a 1 foot piece of anything, they'd either laugh me off the property, or charge me for the full 20' length.HenryJ wrote:For the front bracket I used a piece of .250 3"x4" angle iron 4" long.
[size=75][url=http://f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mikeh3235/lst?.dir=/&.src=ph&.done=http%3a//f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mikeh3235/lst%3f%26.dir=/2002%2bGMC%2bCrew%2bCab-Spacers%26.src=ph%26.view=l&.view=l]Yahoo Photo Pages[/url]
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I do have a really good supply of iron at work, and over the years have aquired a pretty good scrap pile.
Another thing that I have is a good relationship with a few of the local fabrication/welding shops.
That would be your best bet. Call a local welding shop and ask about the materials needed. Lots of times you can dig through their scrap piles and find all sorts of things you need Then have them lying around your garage for years
Sometimes the Steel Suppliers will have a scrap bin also. Most of our suppliers do custom orders and unless you specify to ship the scrap also they just dump it at their facility.
If you do have problems finding what you need, drop me a PM and I see what I can do to hook you up Shipping might cost more than the material if purchased locally though.
Another thing that I have is a good relationship with a few of the local fabrication/welding shops.
That would be your best bet. Call a local welding shop and ask about the materials needed. Lots of times you can dig through their scrap piles and find all sorts of things you need Then have them lying around your garage for years
Sometimes the Steel Suppliers will have a scrap bin also. Most of our suppliers do custom orders and unless you specify to ship the scrap also they just dump it at their facility.
If you do have problems finding what you need, drop me a PM and I see what I can do to hook you up Shipping might cost more than the material if purchased locally though.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
- adrenalnjunky
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I'm going to have to do this--will tackle it this weekend -- I really wish someone made a set like these for our trucks:
Although - if I found out that a cherokee like that has about the same distance from wheelwell to wheelwell as my Blazer - I'd be tempted to buy a set and play with making it fit -- seeing as how I'm going to have to do just as much fabricating to make a set of Westin bars fit due to the bodylift.
Although - if I found out that a cherokee like that has about the same distance from wheelwell to wheelwell as my Blazer - I'd be tempted to buy a set and play with making it fit -- seeing as how I'm going to have to do just as much fabricating to make a set of Westin bars fit due to the bodylift.
[size=75]Thanks, CHRIS
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
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You'd have better luck asking a shop that builds racecar chassis to bend it up for ya or something.
Unless you are just wanting something that looks like that--then maybe you could get an exhaust shop to bend something up for ya
Unless you are just wanting something that looks like that--then maybe you could get an exhaust shop to bend something up for ya
[size=75]Thanks, CHRIS
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
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Yea, I found this place close to me after I already got my sliders. This guy I think, would have madem and put em on for lest than I bought mine. http://www.skbpro.com/
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Henry/Brule (Can you clue me in to what your name really is )
Looking at this pic:
It looks like you're not using the lower body mount cup at all? without it, what is keeping the upper body mount from lifting up off of the frame perch?
Other than the obvious weight of the truck and such -- I'm just a little concerned about losing some torsional rigidity over rough terrain...
Looking at this pic:
It looks like you're not using the lower body mount cup at all? without it, what is keeping the upper body mount from lifting up off of the frame perch?
Other than the obvious weight of the truck and such -- I'm just a little concerned about losing some torsional rigidity over rough terrain...
[size=75]Thanks, CHRIS
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
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Realname=Brule Alias, nickname, username, aka. = HenryJ (like the car)adrenalnjunky wrote:Henry/Brule (Can you clue me in to what your name really is )
Looks can be deceiving, the cup is still there. I just added the mount under the cup. It is mounted no differently than the stock Westin mounts would bolt on , just 2" higher and with some reinforcing for the rear mount (optional). The PA bolt is just long enough to get a set of threads through the nut.Looking at this pic:
IMAGE
It looks like you're not using the lower body mount cup at all? without it, what is keeping the upper body mount from lifting up off of the frame perch?
The mount would keep the mount in place without the cup, but it is not necessary to remove it.
Have no fear about the strength of it I doubt you'll be harder on them than I am. They are not "sliders" , but I don't have big rock in this desert climate.
Do consider foaming them though, it is really nice not having a ringing sound when rocks hit them and probably adds some structural strength too.
Last edited by HenryJ on Tue May 13, 2008 2:51 pm, edited 2 times in total.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
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drill a hole in the bottom of one and fill with expanding foam?
Then go see if it'll float!
Then go see if it'll float!
[size=75]Thanks, CHRIS
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
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adrenalnjunky wrote:drill a hole in the bottom of one and fill with expanding foam?
Then go see if it'll float!
Pretty sure it won't float you , but I'd love to see you try itHenryJ wrote:One more thing I did was to get a couple cans of the high expansion foam. wrap tape around the threaded inserts (to protect the threads), then cut disks of card board and using masking tape sealed both ends. Punch a hole in each end and filled them from one end until the foam came out the other.
This adds a little structural strength and more importantly quiets them. You don't get that ringing sound everytime a rock hits them. It may also help to avoid condensation and water from accumulating inside.
All kidding aside I'm real glad I foamed mine. No drilling was required.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
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I got mine lifted and relocated over the weekend -- I used .25 3x3 angle though because I couldn't source and 4x3 or 4x4 at 4pm on a Saturday afternoon
The fronts were the same as yours, no problems there, but the rear ones on my truck didn't need all the fabbing yours did--I used the stock mounts, but turned them a different direction than intended and drilled one hole and it all lined up pretty well. It appears that the rear body mounts on the Crews are much higher up than the Blazer, even with your bodylift on. the bottom of my body mount is almost flush with the bottom edge of the rocker with the lift on mine.
My big peeve right now is that they stick out too far - I have to work too hard to get in and out of the truck without brushing my leg against them -- and it's even harder for my fiancee who is considerably shorter than my 6' 1".
I'm thinking that this weekend I'm going to take the bandsaw out and cut about 1.5 inch off of the end of them and then weld the bar directly to the mounts and bypass the bolt that holds them all together.
The fronts were the same as yours, no problems there, but the rear ones on my truck didn't need all the fabbing yours did--I used the stock mounts, but turned them a different direction than intended and drilled one hole and it all lined up pretty well. It appears that the rear body mounts on the Crews are much higher up than the Blazer, even with your bodylift on. the bottom of my body mount is almost flush with the bottom edge of the rocker with the lift on mine.
My big peeve right now is that they stick out too far - I have to work too hard to get in and out of the truck without brushing my leg against them -- and it's even harder for my fiancee who is considerably shorter than my 6' 1".
I'm thinking that this weekend I'm going to take the bandsaw out and cut about 1.5 inch off of the end of them and then weld the bar directly to the mounts and bypass the bolt that holds them all together.
[size=75]Thanks, CHRIS
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
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That's what I thought too at first.adrenalnjunky wrote:...My big peeve right now is that they stick out too far - I have to work too hard to get in and out of the truck without brushing my leg against them -- and it's even harder for my fiancee who is considerably shorter than my 6' 1"....
With the flares they line up and tie in pretty well.
The only problem I see with moving them inboard is that it may be hard to use them as step bars. My feet are not huge , and I still have a tough time not hitting my toes on the rockers when reaching over the top.
Side bars take some getting used to, you always have that muddy smear on the back of your pant leg from getting in and out. Your wife will have a really big muddy smear on the back of her nicest dress (don't mention that!)
If you move them in far enough to be out of your access/egress, I'm afraid that they may be useless as step bars. We know that they are not sliders, so the only function they would serve would be appearance.
I'm not saying that it won't work , just some food for thought. Maybe you only want to move them in an inch or two? Better yet! ... now you have an excuse to add a set of flares to balance the appearance and to heck with the nuisance of rubbing your legs on the bars
Last edited by HenryJ on Tue May 13, 2008 2:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
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lol -- I like the cut of your giblets
er...that's a southern thing--translation: I like the way you think......
Mine do stick out a little further than that--and all I was thinking was moving them in an inch or so, I think it'll all work out--as it is they stick out almost an inch past the outer edge of the wheel.
The only flares available for my 4door are the Bushwhackers,a nd they're $375 or so, and I don't even have my 31's yet. I've been forbidden to spend any more money until after the wedding (51 days away) - but then we'll see how things all start falling together.
I was thinking of honeymooning here : http://www.orvpark.com but she told me that I was dreaming. Oh well.
er...that's a southern thing--translation: I like the way you think......
Mine do stick out a little further than that--and all I was thinking was moving them in an inch or so, I think it'll all work out--as it is they stick out almost an inch past the outer edge of the wheel.
The only flares available for my 4door are the Bushwhackers,a nd they're $375 or so, and I don't even have my 31's yet. I've been forbidden to spend any more money until after the wedding (51 days away) - but then we'll see how things all start falling together.
I was thinking of honeymooning here : http://www.orvpark.com but she told me that I was dreaming. Oh well.
[size=75]Thanks, CHRIS
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
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Hot Springs...that sounds romantic, although the "falls" are nothing like Niagra...adrenalnjunky wrote:.... I was thinking of honeymooning here : http://www.orvpark.com but she told me that I was dreaming. Oh well.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
- adrenalnjunky
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Yeah -- He missed one of the park rules:
21. Everyone rides at their own risk. Know your limitations and do not exceed the capabilities of your vehicle.
oh, and the important one (As far as the park is concerned):
23. The park is neither liable or responsible for damage, loss, or theft of personal property or injury to visitors.
21. Everyone rides at their own risk. Know your limitations and do not exceed the capabilities of your vehicle.
oh, and the important one (As far as the park is concerned):
23. The park is neither liable or responsible for damage, loss, or theft of personal property or injury to visitors.
[size=75]Thanks, CHRIS
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]