tires and lift

OpieOnCrack · Post by **OpieOnCrack** » Mon Dec 01, 2008 10:14 pm

I have had the good fortune of being given a new set of 11.5 x 31" tires for a 15" rim. My question is what modifications must be made and what backspace should my wheels have. The rims the tires are mounted to are 6 lug. Is there any adapter that exists to mount on my 5-lug crew?

Thx in advance.

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Dec 02, 2008 5:36 am

You will need at least 2 " of lift and trimming will still be needed.
There may be adapters, but you will spend more on them than replacement wheels will cost, not to mention you will not have enough rearspacing when you are done.
I would say sell them and put the money toward a set of tires that will fit much better.

6" rearspacing is stock, venture far from that and you will run into problems. Put a front tire up on the curb and turn your tire to where it comes closest to the rear of the opening. Take a measurement. This is what you have to play with. Reduce rearspacing and, or add wider tires and this measurement decreases.
Those 11.5" tires reduce that number by 1.25". We do not have that much room to spare, and that is with the stock wheels.

Sorry to rain on your parade, but those wheels and tires are not going to work for you.

green02crew · Post by **green02crew** » Tue Dec 02, 2008 9:57 am

I agree you will need atleast 2 inches of lift. Crank the torsion bars and add shackles or a body lift, or both would be good. With that said, you may still rub. I have 30x9.5s with no rub but I did crank the tb and shackles on the rear, also with 1" spacers front and 1.5" back. Don't go further than that back if I had to guess or you'll rub, front you will need to atleast go 1", possibly more to prevent rub on the frame.

This will be trial and error.

A 31x10.5 tire is more standard and less width so more likely to fit. What kind of tires are these? Are they worn enough to make it worth the work and cost?

This site has some decent prices and good quality product you might find what you're looking for in adapters here:
Ebay Store EZ Accessory

OpieOnCrack · Post by **OpieOnCrack** » Wed Dec 03, 2008 4:18 pm

These tires have less than 2000 miles on them. i was planning a 2" body lift but was not wanting to cut the truck. Thanks for the info. Any other ideas are helpful.

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Dec 03, 2008 4:49 pm

That might be "do-able". a little massage with a hammer will clear the fender if you stick with the stock wheels.

vrodracing90 · Post by **vrodracing90** » Thu Dec 04, 2008 8:23 am

I am a newby to S-10's but I am confused? I understand that stock wheels have 6 inches of back spacing but......

If you go to 8 inch rims instead of stock what kind of back spacing do you use then?

If you are spacing the wheels out with spacers why not just get less back spacing on the rims?

Where did you get the spacers from?

green02crew · Post by **green02crew** » Thu Dec 04, 2008 10:47 am

You can simply get different backspacing on the rims. The front and rear however are not lined up on our trucks so the fronts will stick out a little further. That is why I personally chose to get spacers to equal the stance not offset it. You could easily get rims that will do the same job however. The choice is yours there are a few options out there.

That link above that I posted has spacers (labeled adapters on the site). I ordered 1" spacers for the front and 1.5" spacers for the rear. All were hub/wheel centric for a very decent price. They are also the correct OD for the wheels if you search for another thread you will see why that is important. I have had no issues so far and find them a quality product. Just look for wheel adapters, and get the 4.75 5 lug to 4.75 5 lug so there is no change.

Here is a list of the ones that fit our truck on that site.

vrodracing90 · Post by **vrodracing90** » Thu Dec 04, 2008 11:49 am

Thanks but please help me with the back spacing on a 8 inch rim. What changes as far as spacing on the 8 inch over 7 inch.

Isn't true that if you install a 31x10.5x15 on a 7 inch rim it is going to be over all taller than if you install it on a 8 inch rim?

green02crew · Post by **green02crew** » Thu Dec 04, 2008 12:45 pm

I guess I don't follow, are we talking backspacing or rim size? The 31" tire is going to be 31" regardless of rim size. The backspacing just simply is the inches that the tire is going to be in or outward from the hub.

Check the links in this thread to understand wheel dimensions more.

vrodracing90 · Post by **vrodracing90** » Thu Dec 04, 2008 1:13 pm

True what I am asking is that a stock rim if I am following right is 7 inchs with 6 inches of back spacing and I am going to a 8 inch rim what kind of backspacing should I be looking for? The most that I have been finding is 4 to 5 inchs.

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Dec 04, 2008 1:35 pm

You will need as close to 6" as you can find. 4 1/2" is a minimum and be prepared for rubbing. The increased scrub radius can be too much.

Put a tire on the curb and take some measurements. Each can differ a little. Let us know how much clearance you have.

24digger · Post by **24digger** » Thu Dec 04, 2008 1:40 pm

Our wheels are actually 8" wide if you measure outside to outside, but they measure them from bead to bead on the inside.

And I see what your saying about a 31" tire on a 7" rim versus an 8" or other size.

I think they would be different, minimal but different.

vrodracing90 · Post by **vrodracing90** » Thu Dec 04, 2008 2:23 pm

I have found 5 inch but that has been hard finding that. It was in a 16 inch wheel.

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Dec 04, 2008 2:32 pm

The tire will play a part here too. The shape of the tread at the corner. Sharp corners rub worse. Rounded clear better.

vrodracing90 · Post by **vrodracing90** » Thu Dec 04, 2008 2:57 pm

HenryJ wrote:The tire will play a part here too. The shape of the tread at the corner. Sharp corners rub worse. Rounded clear better.

BFG mud terrain, KO's or Goodyear MTR's for example

DeiselRed · Post by **DeiselRed** » Sun Jan 25, 2009 7:43 am

So with a 2" in Body lift you can fit 30x9.5s with no problem correct?

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Sun Jan 25, 2009 8:01 am

I run 30x9.5's on mine without a body lift, just t-bar tweak and shackles with 1" front spacers and 3" rear. You should be able to move up to 31x10.5 with no problem with the body lift and cuts, You might have some frame rub at full lock each vehicle is a bit different and a rounded shoulder design will work better than one with sharp corner lugs

DeiselRed · Post by **DeiselRed** » Sun Jan 25, 2009 8:49 am

Without altering anything in the suspension can you go 30x9.5?

And could you use bushwackers extend-a-flares to fit 33's?

and everything else is awnsered in the thread

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Jan 25, 2009 8:58 am

DeiselRed wrote:.........could you use bushwackers extend-a-flares to fit 33's?......

No

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Sun Jan 25, 2009 9:07 am

30x9.5's will rub without at least the t-bar tweak and possibly the spacers. They will hit the back edge of the opening of the wheel well. and even with a t-bar tweak and spacer I do get some rubbing in the wheel well when hitting large bumps with a heavy load (4 people) but not too bad. If you do the cutouts and add a spacer you should be fine without tweaking the t-bar. YMMV though depending on the tire. I would do the cuts then go to a tire shop and test fit a tire you like to see if it will have clearance.

DeiselRed · Post by **DeiselRed** » Sun Jan 25, 2009 9:19 am

Would you need spacers to fit 30x9.5 in order to not rub correct? I do plan on getting a 2in bodylift soon. The shackles and T-Bar mod will be next.

I guess my main question is would 30x9.5 fit with just a 2in bodylift.

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Sun Jan 25, 2009 9:23 am

The 30x9.5 should fit with no problems at all with the body lift alone, they will look small in the wheel wells though

DeiselRed · Post by **DeiselRed** » Sun Jan 25, 2009 9:24 am

Can you go bigger then if they would look small? 0_0

I suspect the other mods would need to be done if your going any bigger right?

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Jan 25, 2009 9:26 am

Check out AZS10Crews old truck. That was a good looking combination and very capable:

DeiselRed · Post by **DeiselRed** » Sun Jan 25, 2009 9:30 am

that looks great

thats with a 2in BL with 30x9.5s?

Probably did the T-Bar crank and shackles in the rear?

Thats pretty much the look im going for.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Jan 25, 2009 10:13 am

That is what Mark did. Nice truck for sure!

The black wheels with the stock S-10 hubcaps is a nice touch too. No question if that one is a 4x4.

My guess would be about $1000 to get there from stock, less the shields, lights and bar.
A very attainable and reliable way to go.

AZS10Crew · Post by **AZS10Crew** » Mon Jan 26, 2009 9:32 am

The setup pictured is with 15x7 USWheel Daytonas (some places call the RockCrawlers) with 5" of backspacing and 30x9.5/15 Dunlop Mud Terrains (crappy tire in my opinion...but the did they job at the time), 2" PA body lift, front t-bar crank (added about 1"), and 1.5" lift Daystar non-greasable shackles on the rear. I think I might have added the Bilstein shocks by that point to FWIW.

Front tires rubbed on the bottom rear of the wheel well liner when turning and flexing...but it was nothing a BFH couldn't fix. If I remember right, there's kind of a lip built into the wheel well liner at the bottom rear than can be hammered up out of the way. That combo never rubbed on the fender at all.

Cost at the time came to about $800-$900 for the parts listed above (without the shocks). Will probably be slightly more today.

Oh...almost forgot...3" wheel spacers on the rear and no spacers on the front.

I eventually added 31x10.5" MT/R's and rubbed on the back of the front fenders pretty good. Eventually did the cutting and installed the Skidz flares.

If you need any more details, let me know.

DeiselRed · Post by **DeiselRed** » Mon Jan 26, 2009 1:16 pm

Can you use stock ZR-5 rims to fit the 30x9.5s? And do you need 3in wheel spacers in the rear to fit them as well?

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Mon Jan 26, 2009 1:21 pm

Stock wheels are good for the 30's. Spacers are not needed but they bring the wheels out from under the wells and make the track more even (stock the rear is narrower.

DeiselRed · Post by **DeiselRed** » Tue Jan 27, 2009 7:06 am

Ahhh I understand. Thank you very much.

AZS10Crew · Post by **AZS10Crew** » Tue Jan 27, 2009 8:38 am

DeiselRed wrote:Can you use stock ZR-5 rims to fit the 30x9.5s? And do you need 3in wheel spacers in the rear to fit them as well?

I had those 30x9.5 Dunlops on my stock rims with no body lift for a while and they didn't really rub much at all under normal driving conditions...maybe a little on the bottom rear of the wheel well liner in the front when turning and hitting bumps, but not too bad.

The one place I remember they really did rub prior to the BL was during one off-roading trip when I sailed into a 2 foot deep x 10 foot long x 15 foot wide hole in a gravel road out in AZ at around 40mph. I made it just far enough over the hole to plant the front end squarely on the far side of the hole, which flexed the front end all the way up into the top of the wheel well. That made the tires rub the top of the wheel well liner as well as bend the lip down on the edge of the fender at the top of the wheel well opening. Scraped my skid plate pretty well too...fortunately I had just replaced the plastic POS with an aluminum one a few weeks prior. Kind of a fun "Oh Sh!t" moment.

DeiselRed · Post by **DeiselRed** » Tue Jan 27, 2009 10:36 am

LOL omg...I bet that would be a Oh crap moment...must have scared you a little bit ^_^

AZS10Crew · Post by **AZS10Crew** » Tue Jan 27, 2009 10:49 am

DeiselRed wrote:LOL omg...I bet that would be a Oh crap moment...must have scared you a little bit ^_^

Yeah...especially because we were a good two hours from civilization out in the desert. But I was young and dumb then so it didn't really phase me.

OpieOnCrack · Post by **OpieOnCrack** » Wed Feb 04, 2009 10:31 am

Will try to post pics after I wash it this weekend. Got all the height mods done.

DeiselRed · Post by **DeiselRed** » Tue Feb 10, 2009 12:45 pm

PA body lift is ordered...I plan on doing the T-Bar tweak right after my body lift is done.

Now another question is I know that the 30x9.5's will fit.

But could I squeeze in 31's?? Depending on the type of Tire? Or would I need spacers?

I was looking at the BFG MT KM2's and the 31x10.5 seemed to look like a pretty smooth looking tire...smooth edges too. If I need wheel spacers Ill get some.

Jongo88 · Post by **Jongo88** » Tue Feb 10, 2009 1:16 pm

I run 31 10.50's on stock rims. The only rub I have is on sharp turns. The left front tire rubs the frame. I don't do much off roading mostly street use. I have no body lift.

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Feb 10, 2009 1:46 pm

On the front, wheel spacers or any reduction in rear spacing will make a wider tire rub the rear of the fender worse.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Tue Feb 10, 2009 4:38 pm

DeiselRed wrote:Now another question is I know that the 30x9.5's will fit.

But could I squeeze in 31's?? Depending on the type of Tire?

With a 2" BL, 31's will easily fit and the only rubbing you will have will be on the frame at full turn left or right.

The rubbing really isn't all that bad, but if it does bother you all you have to do is have someone with a welder add a little material to the factory steering stops.

I'm also picking up a set of the new BFG MT KM2's in 31x10.5/15 for my 05 Z in the next 2-3 weeks.

Several copmpanies are offering a $50-$100 rebate on a set of 4 right now.

Steve

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Tue Feb 10, 2009 5:42 pm

killian96ss wrote:
DeiselRed wrote:Now another question is I know that the 30x9.5's will fit...........But could I squeeze in 31's?? Depending on the type of Tire?
With a 2" BL, 31's will easily fit and the only rubbing you will have will be on the frame at full turn left or right........

I'm going to have to comment on this one Steve. Each CC is different and maybe Steve had good luck with his and 31s but, I had problems with the 2" BL, TB crank with 30s. I had to do some cutting on the bottom of the fenders. "With a 2" BL, 31's will easily fit and the only rubbing you will have will be on the frame at full turn left or right......." is not written in stone and you shouldn't expect the same results that Steve experienced. You can hope for them but, don't be disappointed if, additional modifications are required.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Tue Feb 10, 2009 6:53 pm

f9k9 wrote:Each CC is different.

Acually they are all identical dimensionally.

Reed, you know I'm just messin with ya right?

I know the results can be different due to alignment of the cab and bed on the frame after lifting both to get the lift blocks in there, the amount of t-bar crank used, the choice of wheel spacers "if used", and ZR5's have different fender flares, but even those differences should be minor in the end.

I also removed a small piece of metal that was sticking out from the bottom rear of each fender well so that the tires would not get cut up.

Steve

OpieOnCrack · Post by **OpieOnCrack** » Thu Feb 12, 2009 7:56 pm

I've done shackles, T-bar, 2" PA body lift, and fit 31" x 11.5" x 15's on stock rims. They rub slightly on extreme turns. I just don't make extreme turns at the moment. lol

okie s10 · Post by **okie s10** » Fri Feb 13, 2009 11:42 am

Wished I would have known 11.50's would have worked(with a little rub). I went with 10.50's and think I would have liked the look of extra width. Guess I just wait till I wear out these pizza-cutters!

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Fri Feb 13, 2009 12:05 pm

okie s10 wrote:I went with 10.50's. Guess I just wait till I wear out these pizza-cutters!

Some members are running 9.5" wide 33's.

Now those are pizza cutters.

I can see a narrow tall tire being better for gas mileage and crawling over higher objects, but from my experience flotation and a larger contact patch works better on most surfaces like mud, snow, and most rocks.

Skinny tires tend to dig you into a rut faster than wide tires, but if there is a solid surface underneath a taller skinny tire might keep you a bit higher in the mud preventing it from getting into everything.

Some mud boggers like the skinny tires because they have more steering control when flying through the mud.

I wonder if I'm going to get attacked because I made fun of the skinnies?

.....

Steve

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Fri Feb 13, 2009 4:39 pm

OpieOnCrack wrote:.............They rub slightly on extreme turns. ........

Define "extreme" for us. I despise my 10.50s on trails. 3+ point turns are a PITA. I'm guessing your keeping an eye out for 40 acre fields to make a turn.

roadrunner · Post by **roadrunner** » Sat Feb 14, 2009 2:01 pm

killian96ss wrote:
okie s10 wrote:I went with 10.50's. Guess I just wait till I wear out these pizza-cutters!

I wonder if I'm going to get attacked because I made fun of the skinnies? .....

Steve

It's all about balance for what the intended use is. "Skinny" tires have a value in gummy mud as they tend to float around less and clean better having less center area to clean. Just need to consider what the intended final use is.

OpieOnCrack · Post by **OpieOnCrack** » Sat Feb 14, 2009 2:58 pm

Mine rub on full lock either way. These are only about 1/2;' to 3/4" wider than the street tires that were on it when I got it. I just don't go the final few degrees when turning. Haven't had it in the mud or rough terrain yet. Will be a few months for that. But even there, I have room to roam and won't have to go to full lock.

YellowCrewCabber · Post by **YellowCrewCabber** » Mon May 04, 2009 11:46 am

04crewvt wrote:I run 30x9.5's on mine without a body lift, just t-bar tweak and shackles with 1" front spacers and 3" rear. You should be able to move up to 31x10.5 with no problem with the body lift and cuts, You might have some frame rub at full lock each vehicle is a bit different and a rounded shoulder design will work better than one with sharp corner lugs

If I did just a 1 1/2" T-bar crank and the Boise spring kit on the back...can I mount the 30x9.5 15 until I can get the body lift done?

YellowCrewCabber · Post by **YellowCrewCabber** » Mon May 04, 2009 4:59 pm

Okay, okay, I found it.

Jongo88 · Post by **Jongo88** » Mon May 04, 2009 5:19 pm

I am very happy with my 1.5 t-bar and 1.5 shackle with the Skids cut out's in the front. I did the bumper stop mod too. I only have the frame rub but I can live with that. I have 31/10.50 on stock rims. And give me a hard time but I still have the stock shocks at 55,000 miles.

YellowCrewCabber · Post by **YellowCrewCabber** » Mon May 04, 2009 5:40 pm

Jongo8 wrote:I am very happy with my 1.5 t-bar and 1.5 shackle with the Skids cut out's in the front. I did the bumper stop mod too. I only have the frame rub but I can live with that. I have 31/10.50 on stock rims. And give me a hard time but I still have the stock shocks at 55,000 miles.

And a hard time you shall recieve. GET RID OF THOSE STOCK SHOCKS. My preferred choice are Bilsteins.

You won't be sorry but you will be impressed.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Mon May 04, 2009 7:35 pm

HenryJ wrote:That might be "do-able". a little massage with a hammer will clear the fender if you stick with the stock wheels.

Key words is "might be doable". All rigs are a little bit different. I waited for Brule to answer your question since, he is a little more credible than me.