What size tires will fit on a 15x7 rim??

HCO4x4 · Post by **HCO4x4** » Thu Jan 10, 2008 12:37 pm

i want to get these nice bfg muds but it says theyre 30x9.50r15. will they fit? whats the widest tire i can fit on this rim?

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Thu Jan 10, 2008 1:11 pm

Welcome to the forum CANIHAVETHIS1.

A 30x9.5 tire will fit just fine on the factory rims.

I have 31x10.5 on my factory rims.

You could probably squeeze an 11.5" wide tire on there, but I wouldn't go any farther than that on a 7" rim.

Steve

HCO4x4 · Post by **HCO4x4** » Thu Jan 10, 2008 1:23 pm

HI! THANKS A LOT
I WASNT SURE HAHA
I PLAN ON GETTING A 2 INCH BODY LIFT AND I THINK I MIGHT STEP UP TO 32'S
WOULD I HAVE ANY RUBBING PROBLEMS OR SHOULD I STICK WITH 30'S?

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Thu Jan 10, 2008 1:34 pm

With a 2" body lift, 1" torsion bar crank, and shackles or a spring pack you can run 31's with only a little rubbing on the frame when turned at full lock.

The factory steering stops can be "built up" by welding a little more material on them so that the wheels won't rub when turning.

Most 32" tires have an 11.5" width which is pushing it on a 7" rim.

I'm sure you could run 32's with a 2" BL, but you will likely have a lot of rubbing.

Some guys are running 33's, but they are only 9.5" wide.

31x10.5 would be my recommendation for factory rims and a 2" BL.

If you really want to run 32's with a 11.5" width, I would get the Superlift 6" suspension lift, and some 8" wide rims.

Steve

HCO4x4 · Post by **HCO4x4** » Thu Jan 10, 2008 2:34 pm

HAHA YA I USED TO DREAM ABOUT BUYING THE SUPERLIFT BUT ITS OUT OF MY BUDGET.
IF YOU COULD, SEND ME A LINK FOR IT THOUGH. (I MIGHT JUST SAVE UP)
BESIDES THAT I THINK IM GOING TO GO WITH 2" LIFT/ 1" TORSION ON 30-32
STILL NOT POSITIVE ON TIRE SIZE LOL
MY FRIEND HAS A 2"BL AND TBAR AND HES GOT 32'S

THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP, I APPRETIATE IT

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Thu Jan 10, 2008 3:23 pm

Welcome to the forum

killian96ss wrote:....................Some guys are running 33's, but they are only 9.5" wide...............

You forgot that I got tired of waiting on my 9.50s and went with 10.50s.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Thu Jan 10, 2008 4:22 pm

f9k9 wrote:
killian96ss wrote:....................Some guys are running 33's, but they are only 9.5" wide...............
You forgot that I got tired of waiting on my 9.50s and went with 10.50s.

Yeah I forgot.

Would you recommend the 33x10.5 with only a 2" BL?

How bad is the rubbing with those tires?

Steve

green02crew · Post by **green02crew** » Thu Jan 10, 2008 4:33 pm

With stock setup I could only fit 30x9.5s. The 31x10.5s were too wide and rubbed the frame w/ stock rims. If you got spacers than you might be able to get by with a wider tire.

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Jan 10, 2008 4:57 pm

As a general rule the tread width and rim width should be the same. This will give you a flat tread pattern. The 9.50 section width has a 7" tread.
You can use a wider tire. The wider tire on a narrow wheel will round and wear the center. A narrower tire would do the opposite and wear the outsides.
Air pressure can be used to compensate.

Go outside and measure your wheel well on the rear fender. I will assume you have a crew cab, since this is a crew cab forum. They measure 31". A 30" tire is pushing the limits but can be used with no lift. Mine rubbed stock with the optional 29" tires.

With a 2" body lift and torsion bar crank you can use 31" tires with minimal rubbing. Rubbing the frame is not really a big deal, but with a true to size 31" tire you will find it rubbing the back of the front fenders. A little massage with a BFH , or a trim with a reciprocal saw helps that.
If you add spacers to the front or use wheels with less rearspacing, you will find the rubbing will become a problem yet again.

Width is where you lose. The radius of the tire as it turns interferes with the rear of the fender. Wider tires, wheels, and rearspacing reduction all lead to interference issues. The shoulder design plays a part too. A sharp or extended lug will have less clearance than a rounded shoulder.

Your best bet is to add the lift and then take some measurements. Put one front tire up on a good high curb and turn it to the point where it is closest to the rear of the front fender. Measure the clearance. Half that you need to clear and half can be added as a larger diameter tire. Don't forget to take into account any additional width too.

I really do not think a 32" tire is an option without the same sort of cuts that are needed to run the 33" tires. They just do not make a narrow 32" tire with a rounded shoulder. Small 31" tires work, but even they will rub a little sometimes.

To run 33" tires , either 9.50 or 10.50 section width, you need to do some pretty serious cutting. Check out the "Marvelous Mystery Lift" for more on that.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Thu Jan 10, 2008 5:20 pm

When I had 31" MT/R's on my CC they rubbed a little on the frame, but they did not rub the fender well no matter how the front end was flexed.

I was also able to get 60k miles out of these tires.

Even with that mileage the tread wear was near perfect from side to side.

Frequent cross rotations, proper tire pressure, and a good alignment are the key to long tire life and even wear.

A 31" tire on a 7" rim will actually do better when aired down then a 30" tire due to the bead having more pressure against the rim.

A 32" with a 11.5" tread might be a little too much for a 7" rim.

Steve

HCO4x4 · Post by **HCO4x4** » Thu Jan 10, 2008 5:23 pm

o ok thanks
i dont know how my friends 32's fit then
he didnt make any cuts and he says they only rub on hard turns
anyways im going to go the 31 route
thanks for the help guys
and does anyone know where i could get the cheapest 3" lift?

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Jan 10, 2008 5:49 pm

2" lift for the crew cabs.

HCO4x4 · Post by **HCO4x4** » Thu Jan 10, 2008 6:15 pm

oo where can i get the cheapest 2" lift and 1" tb's

drperry · Post by **drperry** » Fri Jan 11, 2008 12:39 am

Suspension wise... You'll probably only find 2" lifts and 5" or 6" lifts...

Body lifts are 2" unless you do a lot of linkage fabbing to fit a 1st gen S-Series 3" body lift.

AZS10Crew · Post by **AZS10Crew** » Fri Jan 11, 2008 5:24 am

Best deal I found on the 2" Performance Accessories body lift was at Summit. Search for part number PRA-PA-192

For the 1" torsion bar lift, jack up the front end, get a wrench, and start cranking.

HCO4x4 · Post by **HCO4x4** » Fri Jan 11, 2008 9:44 am

ALRIGHT THANKS

HCO4x4 · Post by **HCO4x4** » Sat Jan 12, 2008 2:01 pm

now when i lift the tb 1" will that wear the joints fast or am i safe?

HCO4x4 · Post by **HCO4x4** » Sat Jan 12, 2008 2:08 pm

o and will it noticably effect the ride?

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Jan 12, 2008 2:48 pm

CANIHAVETHIS1 wrote:o and will it noticably effect the ride?

I am afraid that I am confused with the question. A BL will not affect your ride. A torsion bar crank will ride harsher and accelerate wear on your front end components.

HCO4x4 · Post by **HCO4x4** » Sat Jan 12, 2008 3:42 pm

sorry, my question has nothing to do with the body lift. im asking if i crank the t bar 1" will i notice it riding worse and even tho its only 1" will it still wear things faster?

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Jan 12, 2008 4:05 pm

You are entering a really strange land with your questions. Doing a thorough search will help answering your questions but, I will try to give you the cliff notes from where I am coming from. A stock CC handles terribly IMO. I stepped out of a '97 ZR2 when I purchased my CC so, I am a tad biased. The stock CC suspension is too soft. I replaced my oem shocks when my CC had under 1,000 miles on it. The firm ride that resulted was extremely welcome and much more reassuring in corners or anticipating emergency maneuvers. Performing a TB crank will create a harsher ride which is welcome by me. Performing a torsion crank that meets GM's specs will accelerate front end component wear and tear. Try performing a search, in which, I am involved along with the term "Z height" .

Kick back, grab some pop and some popcorn and enjoy

HCO4x4 · Post by **HCO4x4** » Sat Jan 12, 2008 4:12 pm

ok thanks, i think im gonna go without messing with the tb and see how the wheels fit. your right they are rough. my dad never wants to ride with me.

plus i have low pros, its already a tank

green02crew · Post by **green02crew** » Sat Jan 12, 2008 6:40 pm

I cranked my tbars and the handling was increased with the stiffer ride. I thought it made it rough, try a toyota pickup stock if you think ours is rough. I also put in aftermarket shocks as mine were 100% dead with very few miles. I have had my tbars cranked for about a year now 15k miles with a front end all original at 52k miles as of today. Some people say no to it. I think its pros outweigh the cons. Fit larger tires, better handling, even though parts supposedly wear slightly faster. I've heard of guys cranking them all the way like mine for years, over 50k and nothing worn in the front end. Its up to you if you want to take the chance and see if its worth it for you. I don't regret it at all.

HCO4x4 · Post by **HCO4x4** » Sat Jan 12, 2008 6:48 pm

thanks for the input. if the 31's dont fit ill have to crank it a little. but for now it sounds better to leave it alone.

HCO4x4 · Post by **HCO4x4** » Thu Jan 17, 2008 5:28 am

i got my lift yesterday. and of course i came into somemoney also. now i could afford the 6" but i think imjust gonna buy my wheels and save the rest. by the way, could someone take a pic of where to crank the torsion bars. i dont know

green02crew · Post by **green02crew** » Thu Jan 17, 2008 12:27 pm

Check the mods page here Torsion Bar Crank.

HCO4x4 · Post by **HCO4x4** » Thu Jan 17, 2008 8:08 pm

so that looks to me to be on the bottom of the frame..right?

AZS10Crew · Post by **AZS10Crew** » Fri Jan 18, 2008 5:37 am

HCO4x4 wrote:so that looks to me to be on the bottom of the frame..right?

Basically yes. Look under the vehicle in the area even with the seam between the front and back doors. You'll see a solid steel rod about 3'-4' long and 1" dia. coming from the lower control arm back along the inside of the frame. At the rear end of that steel bar you'll see a bolt head...that's what you crank to lift it. Tighter=taller. Don't bottom them out all the way though. Leave at least 1 full turn from bottomed out and measure to make sure everything's even. Also get an alignment very soon afterwards or you'll chew through tires fast.

HCO4x4 · Post by **HCO4x4** » Sun Jan 20, 2008 8:03 pm

i see two bolts on either side. which one do i tighten

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Jan 20, 2008 8:12 pm

From the How-to linked above.

HCO4x4 · Post by **HCO4x4** » Sun Jan 20, 2008 8:16 pm

o oops. im getting used to just asking and not looking lol. thanks a lot.

HCO4x4 · Post by **HCO4x4** » Tue Jan 29, 2008 2:48 pm

also got my 31's and rims today. they look great! but one rim is different(style and lug) so im going to have to ship it back and wait before i can put them on

. good thing i have a loaded agenda this week or id be upset