I removed the Summit Sway Control Plus springs from my CC today and installed some Daystar Greaseable Super Shackles. These shackles will raise the rear end 1-1/2" and use polyurethane bushings that are greaseable. I used part # KG61002BK. I was surprised how heavy duty these were constructed. The side plates are 3x as thick as the stock shackles and the welded brace in the center looks very strong. Installation was fairly easy, however the stock bushings were a PITA to get out. The rear flexes much better now and the polyurethane bushings eliminate the usual side to side slop that most longer shackles will give you when you use the factory style rubber bushings. I decided to switch from the Summit springs to Daystar shackles because I don't ever carry much weight in the bed and I wanted better off road performance. The only down side to this swap that I have noticed so far is a slight increase in rear end sway. The trade off is worth it to me since the ride was too stiff in the rear before with the Summit springs. The Summit springs will be going on my 88 S10 Blazer since it has some rear end sag and I carry more weight in it than I do in the CC. Here are some pictures of the install.
Greaseable Super Shackles With Black Polyurethane Bushings
Polyurethane Bushings
Greaseable Shackle Bolt
Steve
Last edited by killian96ss on Fri Dec 14, 2007 10:26 am, edited 1 time in total.
It a little to late to promptly post photos with a thread but, am curious to hear your theory on why the greaseable shackle is worth the extra price.
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Nice.
What did you have to do to remove the stock bushings?
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f9k9 wrote:am curious to hear your theory on why the greaseable shackle is worth the extra price.
Polyurethane bushings do not have the slop like the stock rubber bushings and this will reduce the common side to side slop associated with adding longer shackles to stock rubber bushings (remember how much nicer the greaseable polyurethane sway bar bushings were compared to the stock set up). Greaseable poly bushings will last much longer than dry rubber bushings. The grease will also help prevent any future squeaks and keep everything bind free.
HenryJ wrote:What did you have to do to remove the stock bushings?
On the frame bushing I had to remove the rubber bushing, but leave the outer steel sleeve in place and on the spring eye I had to remove the bushing and outer sleeve. To remove the stock rubber bushings I removed the inner steel sleeve and then made one cut through the rubber which made the bushing kind of cave in making it easier to knock out with a 5 lb sledge hammer. My explanation might sound simple enough, but trust me it took a lot longer to complete than I had originally planned. If I had to do it again I would probably just melt the stock bushings out with a torch.
HenryJ wrote:Nice.
What did you have to do to remove the stock bushings?
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Mightym wrote:How did you get the bushing out on the frame but leave the outer metal sleeve? did you have to use a torch or what?
Trust me it was not fun. First I remove the inner steel sleeve (this is the one that the bolt passes through) by tapping it out with a hammer and piece of bar stock the same size as the sleeve. Next I used a hacksaw to make one cut through the rubber bushing starting from the inside (where the inner sleeve used to be) to the out side where it meet the out steel sleeve. Then I just tapped the bushing out with a 5 # sledge hammer. The rubber bushing can not just be be pounded out. Trust me I tried. You have to either melt it out or cut it and pound it out.
As far as the spring eye bushing I did it the same way except after getting the rubber bushing out, I also had to use my hacksaw to make one cut through the out steel sleeve and again pound it out with the 5 # sledge.
The side plates are 3x as thick as the stock shackles and the welded brace in the center looks very strong. 
Installation was fairly easy, however the stock bushings were a PITA to get out. 
The rear flexes much better now and the polyurethane bushings eliminate the usual side to side slop that most longer shackles will give you when you use the factory style rubber bushings. 
I decided to switch from the Summit springs to Daystar shackles because I don't ever carry much weight in the bed and I wanted better off road performance. The only down side to this swap that I have noticed so far is a slight increase in rear end sway. The trade off is worth it to me since the ride was too stiff in the rear before with the Summit springs. The Summit springs will be going on my 88 S10 Blazer since it has some rear end sag and I carry more weight in it than I do in the CC. Here are some pictures of the install. 
but, am curious to hear your theory on why the greaseable shackle is worth the extra price. 
