newbie question - wide stance
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newbie question - wide stance
How can you get the wide stance (similar to the Zr2) without using spacers?
- BobbleSmitty
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Wheels with different backspacing
[size=75]2004 S-10 Crew Cab ZR5 -*SOLD*-2" PA Body Lift - Air Shocks - 30x9.5" Cooper Discoverer S/T tires - 1.25" Rear Spacers - Clear Bumper Lights - Westin Safari - Light Bar w/ 100watt 6" Lights - Custom Stainless Steel V-force Dual Exhaust w/ 3" Black Chrome Slash Cut Tips - CB radio w/ 100watt PA speaker - Alpine MP3/CD Player - 10" JL Sub w/ 300watt amp - Low Profile - 'TonneauMasters' Tonneau Cover - In-channel Vent Visors - Airbox mod - Custom Front Tow Hooks - Debadged [/size]
- BobbleSmitty
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Or trade in the crew for a ZR2!
[size=75]2004 S-10 Crew Cab ZR5 -*SOLD*-2" PA Body Lift - Air Shocks - 30x9.5" Cooper Discoverer S/T tires - 1.25" Rear Spacers - Clear Bumper Lights - Westin Safari - Light Bar w/ 100watt 6" Lights - Custom Stainless Steel V-force Dual Exhaust w/ 3" Black Chrome Slash Cut Tips - CB radio w/ 100watt PA speaker - Alpine MP3/CD Player - 10" JL Sub w/ 300watt amp - Low Profile - 'TonneauMasters' Tonneau Cover - In-channel Vent Visors - Airbox mod - Custom Front Tow Hooks - Debadged [/size]
- BobbleSmitty
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Why not use spacers???
[size=75]2004 S-10 Crew Cab ZR5 -*SOLD*-2" PA Body Lift - Air Shocks - 30x9.5" Cooper Discoverer S/T tires - 1.25" Rear Spacers - Clear Bumper Lights - Westin Safari - Light Bar w/ 100watt 6" Lights - Custom Stainless Steel V-force Dual Exhaust w/ 3" Black Chrome Slash Cut Tips - CB radio w/ 100watt PA speaker - Alpine MP3/CD Player - 10" JL Sub w/ 300watt amp - Low Profile - 'TonneauMasters' Tonneau Cover - In-channel Vent Visors - Airbox mod - Custom Front Tow Hooks - Debadged [/size]
- 04crewvt
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I think if you look at all our rigs there are more of us with spacers of one size or another than not. I just took my crew on a pretty good offroad adventure and had no problems with the e-bay spacers. I run 2.5" rear 1" front. I think the trucks look and handle better with the wider stance and for the price and ease of modifcation it's the best way to widen the stance of your truck. Remember we are not talking about the cheap slip over the factory lug stud variety spacers but true wheel adapters with there own mounting holes to the hub and a secondary set of studs that the wheel muonts to.
[size=75]Why does the universe decree that if you have all the time in the world to work on projects you have no money and vice versa?
Green 2004 ZR-5 w/ too much to list here: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2296465[/size]
Green 2004 ZR-5 w/ too much to list here: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2296465[/size]
I went 4" wider (2" each side) without spacers by changing to wheels with 4" backspace...
+/-$60 per wheel (including rim, center cap, lug nuts, mount/balance) Did it when I needed new tires. Made it super convenient to drop off wheels and tires at shop and not lose my truck for the day while I had the tires mounted.
On the otherhand, maybe 2" was a bit too much. I had to tighten my torsion bars and hold up/in the fender hem at the rear of each front wheel well due to tire rub when turning. I don't think I would have been as happy with the look if I had gone with any more backspace though.
Whether you go with spacers or wider rims, keep it to an inch or less in the front and you shouldn't have a problem.
+/-$60 per wheel (including rim, center cap, lug nuts, mount/balance) Did it when I needed new tires. Made it super convenient to drop off wheels and tires at shop and not lose my truck for the day while I had the tires mounted.
On the otherhand, maybe 2" was a bit too much. I had to tighten my torsion bars and hold up/in the fender hem at the rear of each front wheel well due to tire rub when turning. I don't think I would have been as happy with the look if I had gone with any more backspace though.
Whether you go with spacers or wider rims, keep it to an inch or less in the front and you shouldn't have a problem.
[size=67][i]"Some people are like Slinkies. Not really good for anything, but they still bring a smile to your face when you push them down a flight of stairs."[/i][/size]
- purduecrew
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The only thing I have noticed between the two is CJBargins is much cheaper but does not offer hub centric.Walt wrote:That's good to know. Next time you have your tires rotated, can you snap a pic or two of your spacers for comparison to the others? This may prove to be another spacer purchasing alternative.
How important is hub centric spacers?
I think I may go with rear spacers of 1.5" Would this be enough to allign them with the front??
- BobbleSmitty
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That'll line you right up!
[size=75]2004 S-10 Crew Cab ZR5 -*SOLD*-2" PA Body Lift - Air Shocks - 30x9.5" Cooper Discoverer S/T tires - 1.25" Rear Spacers - Clear Bumper Lights - Westin Safari - Light Bar w/ 100watt 6" Lights - Custom Stainless Steel V-force Dual Exhaust w/ 3" Black Chrome Slash Cut Tips - CB radio w/ 100watt PA speaker - Alpine MP3/CD Player - 10" JL Sub w/ 300watt amp - Low Profile - 'TonneauMasters' Tonneau Cover - In-channel Vent Visors - Airbox mod - Custom Front Tow Hooks - Debadged [/size]
- BobbleSmitty
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HenryJ wrote:Hubcentric has a hub for centering the wheel. Those without are lugcentric, and center the wheel using the lugs.BobbleSmitty wrote:What is the difference between the two?
Hubcentric just adds a little extra to hold the wheel centered.
[size=75]2004 S-10 Crew Cab ZR5 -*SOLD*-2" PA Body Lift - Air Shocks - 30x9.5" Cooper Discoverer S/T tires - 1.25" Rear Spacers - Clear Bumper Lights - Westin Safari - Light Bar w/ 100watt 6" Lights - Custom Stainless Steel V-force Dual Exhaust w/ 3" Black Chrome Slash Cut Tips - CB radio w/ 100watt PA speaker - Alpine MP3/CD Player - 10" JL Sub w/ 300watt amp - Low Profile - 'TonneauMasters' Tonneau Cover - In-channel Vent Visors - Airbox mod - Custom Front Tow Hooks - Debadged [/size]
Yeah, hub centric really isn't needed on these trucks, it's kinda nice to not have the entire load supported on the lugs but it doesn't really matter.
Some vehicles are hub centric only, in that case it would be important, but it's not something you have to worry about on these trucks.
Just be carefull, spacers or wheels with less backspacing put extra stress on the front end components. My 15x8" wheels with 4" BS, combined with cranked t-bars eats (or used to anyways) balljoints every year. Granted I did drive crappy dirt roads every day which I'm sure accelerated the wear on the balljoints.
Some vehicles are hub centric only, in that case it would be important, but it's not something you have to worry about on these trucks.
Just be carefull, spacers or wheels with less backspacing put extra stress on the front end components. My 15x8" wheels with 4" BS, combined with cranked t-bars eats (or used to anyways) balljoints every year. Granted I did drive crappy dirt roads every day which I'm sure accelerated the wear on the balljoints.
[size=75][b]1991 GMC Sonoma Extended Cb[/b] - 4.3L Automatic, 2" BL, 31" BFG's.
[b]1992 Chevy T-10 Reg Cab[/b] - 4.3L 5spd, 3" Bl, 31" Mud Tires. Hooker long tube headers and true duals.
[b]1999 Oldsmobile Bravada[/b] - Wifes truck, all stock.[/size]
[b]1992 Chevy T-10 Reg Cab[/b] - 4.3L 5spd, 3" Bl, 31" Mud Tires. Hooker long tube headers and true duals.
[b]1999 Oldsmobile Bravada[/b] - Wifes truck, all stock.[/size]
barch97 wrote:I went 4" wider (2" each side) without spacers by changing to wheels with 4" backspace...
+/-$60 per wheel (including rim, center cap, lug nuts, mount/balance) Did it when I needed new tires. Made it super convenient to drop off wheels and tires at shop and not lose my truck for the day while I had the tires mounted.
On the otherhand, maybe 2" was a bit too much. I had to tighten my torsion bars and hold up/in the fender hem at the rear of each front wheel well due to tire rub when turning. I don't think I would have been as happy with the look if I had gone with any more backspace though.
Whether you go with spacers or wider rims, keep it to an inch or less in the front and you shouldn't have a problem.
I was talking to a co-worker of mine who I found out mods s10s for off road fun. He recommends not using spacers (but says they are perfectly safe) and go the route that you did and change the rims. But keep the factory distance from mounting side of the rims.
I have been dying to see this guys current project. He bought a 98 s10 std cab short box, stripped it and made his own frame and put in a 350.
If I can I will post pics
- 04crewvt
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If I was looking to get different rims getting a different backspace would be ok, but to get the wheels to line up the way I have then on my truck I would need different offset for the front and rear which would be a pain. Since I really like the ZR-5 rims I was fine with going with spacers and everyone who sees the truck thinks they look great.
I would like to hear why your friend does not recommend spacers. Other than a little more wear and tear on the front end components that some feel the spacers contribute to, I do not see a disadvantage to the spacers.
I would like to hear why your friend does not recommend spacers. Other than a little more wear and tear on the front end components that some feel the spacers contribute to, I do not see a disadvantage to the spacers.
[size=75]Why does the universe decree that if you have all the time in the world to work on projects you have no money and vice versa?
Green 2004 ZR-5 w/ too much to list here: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2296465[/size]
Green 2004 ZR-5 w/ too much to list here: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2296465[/size]
- killian96ss
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I got my spacers from CJBargins and I've had no problems so far in the last 20-30k miles. These are very high quality spacers with excellent machine work done to them. He includes all the necessary lugs nut also. These spacers are not hub-centric, but our trucks do not need hub-centric spacers anyway.cdnuser wrote:Has anyone tried "CJBargins" (I think that is his user ID)Jigg wrote:Completevalue on ebay.
Steve
A ZR2 would result in a rear track just over 2" wider than the front. IMO that would be to wide to look right, even with the extra buldge the CC has in the rear. Also, isn't the spring pearch width wider on the ZR2 axle. Honestly I don't know, but I would imagine it would be with the wider frame and all.
All 4x4 S-series have different track widths, not sure on the 2wd's though.
All 4x4 S-series have different track widths, not sure on the 2wd's though.
[size=75][b]1991 GMC Sonoma Extended Cb[/b] - 4.3L Automatic, 2" BL, 31" BFG's.
[b]1992 Chevy T-10 Reg Cab[/b] - 4.3L 5spd, 3" Bl, 31" Mud Tires. Hooker long tube headers and true duals.
[b]1999 Oldsmobile Bravada[/b] - Wifes truck, all stock.[/size]
[b]1992 Chevy T-10 Reg Cab[/b] - 4.3L 5spd, 3" Bl, 31" Mud Tires. Hooker long tube headers and true duals.
[b]1999 Oldsmobile Bravada[/b] - Wifes truck, all stock.[/size]
- F9K9
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Brule and I discussed the ZR2 swap a while back because of the added strength. This was when I was looking at rear diff covers for their added strength but, it may have been through a PM. The ZR2 rear axle should workSnoman002 wrote:.......... Also, isn't the spring pearch width wider on the ZR2 axle...........
work with our springs and shocks. This came up when I pointed out that the ZR2s had the driver's side lower shock mounted behind the axle and the passenger's side lower shock mounted in front of the axle. This is due to their trac bar. The ZR2 diffs were expensive when I could find a used one so, I went with the diff cover instead.
[size=75][b]"For those who have fought for it, [i][color=red]FR[/color][color=white]EE[/color][color=blue]DOM[/color][/i] has a taste that the protected will never know."
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The Zr2 rear axle would only be 1.5" wider per side, which would bring the rear track inline with the front, plus a half inch on each side. I've run 2" spacers on the rear, and the lined the rear tires up perfectly with the outside edge of the fender, so 1.5" shouldn't be too much.
--Walt
2001 S-10 CrewCab - Retired...
2001 S-10 CrewCab - Retired...
- F9K9
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The extended cab ZR2 frame is approx. the same length but, it would take a good tech head to determine if, it would work. Body and bed mounting locations would have to be different. It has been done but, only on a custom basis. It isn't a "plug and play" situation.cdnuser wrote:Is the zr2 chassis the same size of the crewcab. So I could just drop the body and bed on a zr2 frame??
I saw a dead 2000 Zr2 in the paper for a couple of grand. HUMMMM.
[size=75][b]"For those who have fought for it, [i][color=red]FR[/color][color=white]EE[/color][color=blue]DOM[/color][/i] has a taste that the protected will never know."
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f9k9 wrote: The ZR2 diffs were expensive when I could find a used one so, I went with the diff cover instead.
If I remember correctly ZR2 rears where selling for $1000 or more. I just ran them on car-part.com and was surprised to find some as low as $500.
[size=75]2001 S-10 Crew , A.R.E Cap, Limo tint windows, Halogen Back up lights. Bilstein Shocks, 1.5 Rear Spacers, Summit Rear Diff Cover Clear Bumper Lights, Carbon Altezza Tail Lights, Billet Grill. SS Step Bars. GM full front bra. ,,, GM Quote concerning the gurgling heater core " They all sound like that"[/size]
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Mileage? disk brakes or drums?BADs Crew wrote:f9k9 wrote: The ZR2 diffs were expensive when I could find a used one so, I went with the diff cover instead.
If I remember correctly ZR2 rears where selling for $1000 or more. I just ran them on car-part.com and was surprised to find some as low as $500.
[size=75][b]"For those who have fought for it, [i][color=red]FR[/color][color=white]EE[/color][color=blue]DOM[/color][/i] has a taste that the protected will never know."
[url=http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=73349]GUIDE TO SEARCHING. [i] (Some of the forum software is different but, it has helped me a lot.)[/i][/url][/b]
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- HenryJ
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Prices vary widely in different parts of the country.
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Here is one listed in WV.
4X4,ZR2,GT4,G80,3.73 LOCKER
66,746
$450
USA-WV(Fairmont)
1-888-733-2540
I tried to list the page but it doesn't work.
4X4,ZR2,GT4,G80,3.73 LOCKER
66,746
$450
USA-WV(Fairmont)
1-888-733-2540
I tried to list the page but it doesn't work.
[size=75]2001 S-10 Crew , A.R.E Cap, Limo tint windows, Halogen Back up lights. Bilstein Shocks, 1.5 Rear Spacers, Summit Rear Diff Cover Clear Bumper Lights, Carbon Altezza Tail Lights, Billet Grill. SS Step Bars. GM full front bra. ,,, GM Quote concerning the gurgling heater core " They all sound like that"[/size]