t bar crank question (alignment)

ace · Post by **ace** » Fri Jun 02, 2006 9:47 am

If I crank the t bars up as far as I can without bottoming them out will the front be way higher than the back? I plan on putting on the boise spring kit but just not yet and I don't want to do two alignments so I want to crank up the t bars as much as possible now when I put my tires on. So can I get away with one t bar crank without it looking to high in the front?

Hope you guys follow me on this one.

barch97 · Post by **barch97** » Fri Jun 02, 2006 10:29 am

How high is the rear above the front now?

ace · Post by **ace** » Fri Jun 02, 2006 11:15 am

barch97 wrote:How high is the rear above the front now?

I'd say the back is about an inch higher than the front right now.

ace · Post by **ace** » Fri Jun 02, 2006 11:22 am

I think you helped me answer my own question now when I think about it. I'll crank up the T's now and they only give about an inch so when I put the boise spring kit on it it will be about an inch and half higher in the rear again.

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Jun 02, 2006 2:28 pm

You did answer your question.
The crank will level it to slightly higher in the front. Adding the BSW kit will bring it right back to how it looked before the crank. At least that is how it worked out for me

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Fri Jun 02, 2006 3:16 pm

Once you crank the torsion bars you will need an alignment right away, unless you don't care about your tires wearing down real quick.

Steve

ace · Post by **ace** » Fri Jun 02, 2006 3:56 pm

Thanks guys!

WVHogRider · Post by **WVHogRider** » Wed Jul 12, 2006 10:07 am

So, when I did my TB crank, I was only able to crank up my passenger side up by 4 & 1/2 turns. On the driver side, I would have been able to go up a total of 9 turns, although I only did the 4.5 turns. While looking at the passenger side in frustration, I noticed the second lower indentation on the TB adjustment arm, which is where my question comes into play. Has anyone, or could you, manuever the bolt into this lower indentation to increase the effect of the TB crank?

I know that there is only so much room for the arm to raise up before it hits the top of the bar, but it is just a thought. I wanted to get the maximum allowed out of the TB crank this week before I order those new rims and tires.

And to quote one of my old college professors---"The only stupid questions are the ones that were never asked". So be gentle on me if this is a stupid question as I have never fooled with a TB suspension system. I am used to the coil/leaf systems & motorcycles.

Post by **Walt** » Wed Jul 12, 2006 10:22 am

Not a stupid question at all, and one that can save you money in the future.

Several companies make TB Keys, which alter the stock position of the Torsion bar, allowing for more lift. It's best, and I'm sure most will agree with me, that you stick to the stock torsion bar adjustment limits. Anything beyond that and you risk wearing down/damaging your CV joints, and having CV boots come of.

My torsion bars were already cranked to the limit of the stock adjustments when I bought the truck. I've had one boot sling grease, and one come off. Both had to be replaced. At $100+ a pop, it can get expensive. So if you can have trouble at the limits of the stock adjustments, altering the stock adjustments can cause you major problems.

WVHogRider · Post by **WVHogRider** » Wed Jul 12, 2006 12:32 pm

:twisted:So, I guess I'm at the limit of the truck's TB system for now, unless I feel like really testing the water.

Anyway, Thanks Walt. Did you, or anyone else on the forum, just replace the boot or the whole assembly? I found both the replacement boots and assemblies. However, most were just remanufactered pieces. I also found a "Dorman Quick Split Boot" which you "chemically bond", (glue), the two halves together deleting the removal of the entire assembly. Has anyone tried this as a replacement or is it just a patch type item for temporary use to limp the truck home?

I just wish we could get that better 4x4 look without having to do either the BL or SL.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Wed Jul 12, 2006 1:34 pm

WVHogRider wrote:

Anyway, Thanks Walt. Did you, or anyone else on the forum, just replace the boot or the whole assembly? I found both the replacement boots and assemblies. However, most were just remanufactered pieces. I also found a "Dorman Quick Split Boot" which you "chemically bond", (glue), the two halves together deleting the removal of the entire assembly. Has anyone tried this as a replacement or is it just a patch type item for temporary use to limp the truck home?

I just wish we could get that better 4x4 look without having to do either the BL or SL.

I've not come across a thread on the split boot but, it is probably out there. If, a boot comes off an easy fix is a large hose clamp. It has worked well for HenryJ and others.

A TB crank and the AAL (add a leaf), spring pack or shackles will make you feel a little better about your truck. It all depends on what you plan on doing with your truck. AALs or a spring pack to help will towing and carrying loads. Shackles for offroad uses where articulation is required. To just get it out of it's stock wimpy appearance, a TB crank and shackles is the cheapest way to go.

I have to warn you though.......once you start modding with ideas from here it gets addictive. I traded a 97 ZR2 for the crew cab and after "many" yrs offroading at the taxpayer's expense, I had no ambition to offroad again

All wanted was exactly what you are asking for. Please help me make it look like a truck. I had people asking me if it was a 2 WD!

I screwed up and found this site

It's now 22 months later and I am over $8K poorer and loving it

8K wouldn't even buy a decent Sportster. Off roading is fun when it isn't required of you

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Jul 12, 2006 1:56 pm

WVHogRider wrote:...I noticed the second lower indentation on the TB adjustment arm, which is where my question comes into play. Has anyone, or could you, manuever the bolt into this lower indentation to increase the effect of the TB crank?

That second indentation is for the torsion bar unloading tool. There is a corresponding hole on the top of the crossmember to complete the interface.

"The only stupid questions are the ones that were never asked".

A very wise quote.

WVHogRider · Post by **WVHogRider** » Wed Jul 12, 2006 2:16 pm

I beg to differ with you about the Sportster remark for $8k. You can have a fantastic one of a kind Sportster for ~$8K. I got a 2000 Sportster XLH-Bought the 883, ($6,200 new), then the 1200+cc engine upgrade for ~$800, and I currently have lowering shocks, Bassani chopper exhaust, and custom intake (all for <$850) sitting at my house waiting to be put on, (It all got delivered this week).

As for the truck, I was just hoping to get more out of the TB Crank before I do the AAL or shackle. I have a good custom spring shop in town that can make me any size leafs/shackles or as many as I want without a big hassle. My brother had them fix a couple broken springs on an S-10 Blazer that he use to have, and they make custom leafs/shackles everyday. I do haul more than off road with it, so probably the leafs are the way to go. I haul a lot of wood, 19 foot camper, lumber/home supplies, etc, etc. I mainly only offroad the truck in farm pasture and some woods while I'm hunting. However, if I really want to offroad or fetch a deer, I can use the 2006 Yamaha Kodiak 450 4x4 fourwheeler I just bought two months ago.

And by the way, I'm already addicted. I'm placing my order for the Centerline 15x8 wheels and 30x9.5 tires in the next couple days. I also found the chrome stainless step bars I've been wanting, and have been looking at building a speaker box, (I got an amp and 12" woofer from my old truck that I may try to cram behind the seat).

Post by **Walt** » Wed Jul 12, 2006 3:01 pm

Alot of people that join the forum seem to be against Body Lifts, but we quickly assimilate them.

Resistance is Futile

Take a look at my truck, F9K9's, HenryJ's, etc.... in the gallery for pics. We all have Body lifts. Add a set of rock sliders or nerf bars, some gap guards, and no one will ever know.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Wed Jul 12, 2006 4:46 pm

WVHogRider wrote:I beg to differ with you about the Sportster remark for $8k.

My bad, I apologize

I work with some owners of HDs and they had me believing that most approached 20K

Here are a few pics with just a TB crank and 1.5" shackles. I dumped the ZR5 wheels on a willing victim

There is no BL yet in these photos.

BTW..... do you know what a rottwieller(SP?) and a HD have in commom?
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They both ride in the back of pick up trucks

WVHogRider · Post by **WVHogRider** » Thu Jul 13, 2006 4:05 am

F9K9:

The bigger harleys cost that much new or you can put that much into a sportster, or any scoot for that matter, with the run of the mill parts that everyone else bought from HD. But just like with our trucks-Take your time, figure out how you want it to look, and see how others have safely mod'd their equipment--Then go about modding yours. Now I can outrun some of those Big Bad Big Twins--I now cruise in 3rd gear at 60 mph with two gears to grab. :hehe:

Plus I'll probably do a custom paint job on it this winter.

I guess I'll check into a BL or SL in a couple months, after the new rim/tires and step bars get put on. I can't do everything right away.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Thu Jul 13, 2006 4:22 am

Hold off on the step/nerf bars until you make up your mind on a BL. You don't want to raise them if, you do decide on a BL.

Post by **Walt** » Thu Jul 13, 2006 5:24 am

f9k9 wrote:Hold off on the step/nerf bars until you make up your mind on a BL. You don't want to raise them if, you do decide on a BL.

Why not?

Steve2003 · Post by **Steve2003** » Thu Jul 13, 2006 5:53 am

I would hold off on tires also. If you lift your truck your tires will likely be to small.

WVHogRider · Post by **WVHogRider** » Thu Jul 13, 2006 5:57 am

Walt wrote:
f9k9 wrote:Hold off on the step/nerf bars until you make up your mind on a BL. You don't want to raise them if, you do decide on a BL.
Why not?

I see your point f9k9, but I might as well go ahead and install the step bars. It could be a month or it could be a year or so before I actually get around to doing a lift. I could use the bars now for my 5yr daughter to get in and out easier. Plus it's only three bolts that would need adjusted later.

Jigg · Post by **Jigg** » Thu Jul 13, 2006 5:57 am

Steve2003 wrote:I would hold off on tires also. If you lift your truck your tires will likely be to small.

I've had 3 different sized tires (31,32, and now 33's) on my truck and they're ALWAYS too small.

WVHogRider · Post by **WVHogRider** » Thu Jul 13, 2006 6:19 am

I also see your point, but I'm ridin on 0 tread up front, and 1/16 tread out back. No choice but to buy tires.

The fronts are actually starting to resemble NASCAR tires, with a couple blister spots as well. Plus I don't really want to go too much bigger than the 30x9.5s anyway.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Thu Jul 13, 2006 6:22 am

WVHogRider wrote:The fronts are actually starting to resemble NASCAR tires, with a couple blister spots as well.

Yeah you better get some tires!

Sounds like the best mod for you at the time!

Steve

Post by **Walt** » Thu Jul 13, 2006 6:42 am

BFG's! BFG's! BFG's! BFG's! BFG's! BFG's! BFG's! BFG's!

If you haven't noticed, I'm a big fan of BFGoodrich tires. All Terrain TA/KO's in particular.

WVHogRider · Post by **WVHogRider** » Thu Jul 13, 2006 6:49 am

Most likely BFG's

But thinking MT's not AT's. Or the Wrangler MT/R's.

Post by **Walt** » Thu Jul 13, 2006 6:52 am

WVHogRider wrote:Most likely BFG's But thinking MT's not AT's. Or the Wrangler MT/R's.

Good choice either way. I've heard good things about the MTR's too

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Thu Jul 13, 2006 7:06 am

WVHogRider wrote:Or the Wrangler MT/R's.

More expensive than the BFG's, but they are much better off road and more puncture resistant.

I'm on my second set and wouldn't even consider getting another tire.

I got over 50k out of my last set!

Steve

WVHogRider · Post by **WVHogRider** » Thu Jul 13, 2006 7:13 am

Just got off the phone with Centerline. They will sell the wheels directly to me, as all the dealers near me quit carrying them. Will order them next week once I'm back in town.

But I don't care!!!!!!!!

border man · Post by **border man** » Thu Jul 13, 2006 1:19 pm

Another alternative to the MT/Rs would be the firestone Destination MTs. We have started running on our rides at work(extreme use) and they are holding up as well if not better than the Good-for-one year.

From experience, I would stay away from the BF MTs, they did not fare well here.

Steve2003 · Post by **Steve2003** » Thu Jul 13, 2006 1:39 pm

I thought this was a t bar crank thread.

P.S. BFG's Rock!

Post by **Walt** » Thu Jul 13, 2006 1:49 pm

Steve2003 wrote:I thought this was a t bar crank thread.

Good point

Steve2003 wrote:P.S. BFG's Rock!

Even better one.

Woot woot!

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Thu Jul 13, 2006 1:55 pm

Even Better is if, they made them in 33/10.50s........Geolanders (Yokohomas) ROCK

Post by **Walt** » Thu Jul 13, 2006 5:27 pm