T-bar keys

ZIGGY K · Post by **ZIGGY K** » Wed Apr 27, 2005 5:43 pm

Hey, what are t-bar keys ??? are they an alternative to the t-bar crank ?? is it easier to align with the keys ?? do they lift the front end ?? THANKS

jeggers · Post by **jeggers** » Wed Apr 27, 2005 6:09 pm

they are what the adjusting screw uses to put torsion on the bar. you can get aftermarket keys that change the position of the bar and you can gain lift without adding more torsion to the bar. but i really think they are meant for those who have added things like a heavy winch and do not have any thread left on the adjusting screw to set the ride hight.
as far as for the alignment ,i would go with ,it will not make it any easyer.

Helo, somecrew get that rig aligned yet help us out here

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Apr 27, 2005 6:36 pm

ZIGGY K wrote:Hey, what are t-bar keys ?...

The have been also called "Porkchops" , "indexers", "keys", and "adjusters".

Jeggers is right this is the lever to which the adjustment bolt makes contact. Moving the adjuster bolt rotates the torsion bar, thus increasing or decreasing ride height (Z height).

The aftermarket "keys" are clocked differently allowing them to turn the torsion bar further than the stock keys will.

SomeCrew · Post by **SomeCrew** » Wed Apr 27, 2005 6:36 pm

I have the t-bar keys, and my alignment was no problem. Good thing about them is I got about an extra 1.5" out of the front and have absolutely no crank on them yet. Well, I do have a half crank on each side, thats just to make sure the adjuster bolts dont fall out

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Wed Apr 27, 2005 7:02 pm

SomeCrew wrote:I have the t-bar keys, and my alignment was no problem. Good thing about them is I got about an extra 1.5" out of the front and have absolutely no crank on them yet. Well, I do have a half crank on each side, thats just to make sure the adjuster bolts dont fall out

Sounds like you may have something there for owners having difficulties. Where did you find them?

Thanks,

Reed

SomeCrew · Post by **SomeCrew** » Wed Apr 27, 2005 7:07 pm

f9k9 wrote:
Sounds like you may have something there for owners having difficulties. Where did you find them?

Thanks,

Reed

I got them here. http://www.truckn-store.com/product.asp ... p&ID=87643

Another little technique we did, gave me the ability get get that lift WITH THE AFTERMARKET KEYS without any crank, is we dropped the lower control arms down, put in the torsion bar, and rebolted up the lower arms. This gave a the bars a little load without having to crank the bolts.

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Apr 27, 2005 7:10 pm

f9k9 wrote:
SomeCrew wrote:I have the t-bar keys...I got about an extra 1.5" out of the front and have absolutely no crank on them yet. ...
... you may have something there for owners having difficulties...

Ahem...

(Bite tongue, bite , bite , bite)

SomeCrew · Post by **SomeCrew** » Wed Apr 27, 2005 7:12 pm

Oh just say it Henry, you know you want to...

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Apr 27, 2005 7:30 pm

SomeCrew wrote:Oh just say it Henry, you know you want to...

Wheew, thankyou! I thought I would explode!

Aftermarket indexers just allow you to exceed the amount that the stock indexers would clock the torsion bars.

AIM Industries wrote: TORSION KEYWAYS allow you to crank UP/DOWN your torsion bars 2-3 inches more than the stock adjusters

Now if you can already exceed the available adjustment in the upper a-arm excentrics, why would you need to buy aftermarket indexers just to back the bolt out far enough to be in the same position that the stock indexers were?

The "other" 2" lift kit manufacturers supply longer upper a-arms to correct the negative camber that exists when the bars are turned beyond what the stock indexers could achieve.

The variable here is that you have a lift and your upper a-arms have been relocated. This may indeed have changed things enough to allow you to clock the torsion bars further that stock.
However Superlift boasts about retaining the stock geometry, so I doubt that this is the case.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Thu Apr 28, 2005 3:22 am

Settle down HJ, I was looking down the road.

Remember I have one side with very few threads showing after the "EX" dealer backed mine down. At 9 K I doubt that I have T B sag and when it does happen I was thinking about alternatives.

SomeCrew · Post by **SomeCrew** » Thu Apr 28, 2005 3:36 am

Yea, really they are intended for people whos torsion bars are very worn.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Thu Apr 28, 2005 3:44 am

SomeCrew wrote:Yea, really they are intended for people whos torsion bars are very worn.

Thanks, I wasn't looking for any more lift (at least not until I have aftermarket axles, boots, and ball joints0

Just want to maintain what I have.

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Apr 28, 2005 4:03 am

f9k9 wrote:...Just want to maintain what I have.

Should the time come that your bars are so weakened there is not enough adjustment. Why would you want to twist them some more?
New torsion bars would be a better investment.
I don't think that this is going to be an issue though. My first Gen is pushing 20 years old now, and doesn't need torsion bars yet. Granted it doesn't get wheeled hard anymore, but still it did have a rough first life.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Thu Apr 28, 2005 4:27 am

HenryJ wrote:Should the time come that your bars are so weakened there is not enough adjustment. Why would you want to twist them some more?
New torsion bars would be a better investment..

f9k9 wrote:.............. At 9 K I doubt that I have T B sag and when it does happen I was thinking about alternatives.

There you go

Another "ALTERNATIVE" for running out of threads. What bothers me is that at 9K I am looking at them. I wonder if 1st gens are stouter though.

jeffc · Post by **jeffc** » Thu Apr 28, 2005 6:03 am

somecrew you'll have to let us know how your cv shafts hold up with the extra lift and added stress of 35's...especially if you're going to take the truck off road very much. i would have done a shackle and t-bar crank but my truck is a daily driver and i figured superlift spent alot of time and money figuring out how to give me 6" of lift and still have stock geometry. i'd like to go taller but i'd like to see how your set up is working after you get some real miles on the truck before i give it a try myself.

ZIGGY K · Post by **ZIGGY K** » Fri Apr 29, 2005 5:03 pm

am i better off going with the keys oppossed to the t-bar crank ?? as far as wear to the front end

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Apr 29, 2005 5:05 pm

ZIGGY K wrote:am i better off going with the keys oppossed to the t-bar crank ?? as far as wear to the front end

I don't think you understand them

HenryJ wrote:...The aftermarket "keys" are clocked differently allowing them to turn the torsion bar further than the stock keys will.

They are the "t-bar crank".

They just allow you to crank further.

jeggers · Post by **jeggers** » Fri Apr 29, 2005 5:32 pm

to sum it all up ,get a lift kit. if you want a little lift go with the bds 5" if you want a little more then go with the superlift 6" kit. if you just want to run stock wheels and 30's or less get a pa bl. If you want to be a big dog then go with the 6" and 2". if you want to be crazy then go with the 6" superlift and 2" perfomance accesories bl and 2" superlift.

hey lift aint cheep.

ZIGGY K · Post by **ZIGGY K** » Fri Apr 29, 2005 5:41 pm

henry j thanks for the info

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Apr 29, 2005 5:48 pm

ZIGGY K wrote:henry j thanks for the info

Hey no problem, I hope I don't come off as a jerk

I really want everyone to understand what they are and how they work. I do think that they can be valuable , as in applications where there is no other option for increasing the Z height.
Case in point would be Quickbiker's truck. The added weight of the brush bar and winch sagged the front signifigantly. He wanted to raise it back up. With there being no heavier bars readily available the indexers were a cost effective solution.

jeggers · Post by **jeggers** » Fri Apr 29, 2005 5:58 pm

was it something I said

If you still are considering a tb crank it real is not worth the extra wear on the front end, before my lift i had a inch or two out of them and my ball joints were starting to wear after a few thousand miles.

hey somecrew good luck man

SomeCrew · Post by **SomeCrew** » Fri Apr 29, 2005 7:06 pm

I am telling you guys, my geometry is still fine, even with the keys, I have that brushguard on there which could possibly be helping that out, but its not that heavy of a guard. I have not had any problems yet, even though it is way too early to tell yet. Who knows.... I will keep you all updated with the wear and tear as I put miles on my truck...

ZIGGY K · Post by **ZIGGY K** » Sat Apr 30, 2005 12:33 pm

i was just wondering with the wear and tear of just a 1" to 2" t-bar crank some people are having on their crews why ask for more problems with the use of these keys ????

jeggers · Post by **jeggers** » Sat Apr 30, 2005 12:33 pm

Only time will tell.

with or with out it still the same

Don · Post by **Don** » Fri May 06, 2005 1:24 pm

That's exactly what I'm wondering about the geometry of the systems...with just having the new axels put in I don't want to run the risk of wearing them out in 6 months or so. I would like to know at what angle the CV's can run without destroying them to soon...mine are a ways from being level. Or put another way straight from the trans to the wheel.... I think yall have referred to it as the "Z" height...
I know the wifes riceburner 4Runner the CV's are straight no angle at all... and it sets alot higher than my truck, but I know that's a totally different suspension with coils and all. But the thing is the angle of the axels...

Know what I mean Vern??

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Fri May 06, 2005 7:55 pm

HJ can give you all dynamics of what all of this is about but, our shafts are just designed to angle down from the center of the vehicle.

You are looking for the same answer as I am, as to what degree of angle is correct for us. The "Z" hgt issue.

I am still trying to work with GM and trying to get an answer at what is the current Z specification.

I had a solid ally for awhile on this subject (he manages 3 dealership's service departments) and supplied me with their current Z specs which are the same that are found on the home page under trim measurements.

Suddenly within the last 10 days the guy tells me that he thinks that the Z hgt spec found in "forty three eleven" different "official" sources is a "typo"

I am beginning to think differently about the guy on the grassy knoll

jeggers · Post by **jeggers** » Sat May 07, 2005 5:58 pm

AND HOW

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Sun May 08, 2005 6:33 am

SomeCrew wrote:
f9k9 wrote: I got them here. http://www.truckn-store.com/product.asp ... p&ID=87643

Another little technique we did, gave me the ability get get that lift WITH THE AFTERMARKET KEYS without any crank, is we dropped the lower control arms down, put in the torsion bar, and rebolted up the lower arms. This gave a the bars a little load without having to crank the bolts.

Nice find! First I've heard of anyone selling re-indexed keys seperately! I found the SL keys for me on ebay, but that's easier! I'll link'm on my page. Sweet!

S-10CREWCAB.NET

T-bar keys

T-bar keys

Re: T-bar keys

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