So I replaced my rear end with a zr2 rear. Everything bolted right up like every one says. Then I got to the drive shaft and the u joint caps are to small. So I wrapped the caps with shimming stock to get by. All I have to go to is the shitty chain stores that don't know anything but stock stuff. I looked at a 1500 truck u joint and it fits the rear end yoke. I need a adapter joint that is s10 on the drive shaft and 1/2 ton truck on the rear end side.
Does anyone know a part number of the u joint?
Back in the day we had a drive shaft shop here but they are long gone now.
Problems with zr2 rear end upgrade
Moderator: F9K9
Problems with zr2 rear end upgrade
2002 GMC Sonoma crew cab 4x4. Tb mod, Air box mod, pre cat delete,B&M shift improver, Trans cooler, Big three ,AD-244 alt,Red top Optima, e-fan, HD Radaitor,265/70-16' on 16x8 TA wheels,, t-bar tweek, 1.5 inch shackles and 2 inch body lift,Skids fender trim, 1.5 inch wheel spacers in front and 2.5 in back, Quad mod and Frog lights.
Transfercase vacuum switch change DO IT!!!
Transfercase vacuum switch change DO IT!!!
- AVTekk
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Re: Problems with zr2 rear end upgrade
Ive never had that problem, in fact, just the other day I took the driveshaft out of a ZR2 (sold it) and replaced it with a non-ZR2 shaft just so I can drive it around the yard still. Bolted in no problem except that its a little too long, the ZR2 shaft is slightly shorter bc the 8.5" housing has a larger snout. But no problems with the caps. Conversion joints are easy to come by tho, just take dimensions to compare them too.
- HenryJ
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Re: Problems with zr2 rear end upgrade
ZR2 rear axle upgrade.
Mine was a direct bolt in 2001 or 2002 ZR2 Blazer donor IIRC. No adapter joint needed.gocntry wrote:Ok After Some Snooping Around I Came Up With The Following From Autozone's Books.....
Standard S-10 U-Joint: Part #2-3011 Saginaw 44 Type
ZR2 S-10 U-Joint: Part #2-0053 Spicer 1350 Type
So You Either Need A Different Yoke For The Rear End - Switch Driveshafts Or A Hybrid U-Joint
Part# 2-1153 Seems To Be The U-Joint # It's An S44/1350 Conversion It's 1 Part 2-3011 And 1 Part 2-0053 So It Should Work.
The Book Does Not Recommend This U-Joint For An Aluminum Driveshaft Though, Reason Is It Does Not Have The Factory Coating To Resist Corrosion Between The Aluminum And Steel Surfaces.
I'm Guessing By Applying My Own Coating This Should Work As Well As The Factory Coating?
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Re: Problems with zr2 rear end upgrade
So I just replaced my u joint. The Part# 2-1153 is indeed the right u joint.... One thing I want to point out is just don't jamb your drive shaft into the transmission without cleaning the yoke as mine had rust on it and would kill the seal if left that way. I just cleaned it up with 1000 grit sand paper.
The only thing I don't like is I lost some mpg's. Just a little but let's face it these trucks suck in that department anyways...
The only thing I don't like is I lost some mpg's. Just a little but let's face it these trucks suck in that department anyways...
2002 GMC Sonoma crew cab 4x4. Tb mod, Air box mod, pre cat delete,B&M shift improver, Trans cooler, Big three ,AD-244 alt,Red top Optima, e-fan, HD Radaitor,265/70-16' on 16x8 TA wheels,, t-bar tweek, 1.5 inch shackles and 2 inch body lift,Skids fender trim, 1.5 inch wheel spacers in front and 2.5 in back, Quad mod and Frog lights.
Transfercase vacuum switch change DO IT!!!
Transfercase vacuum switch change DO IT!!!