Possible Ways to Correct Bad CV Angles?

[LMs10CrewCab]

Hey there!

I just found this info, thought you guys would find it interesting.

You can buy from Rough County JUST the front differential drop bracket for only $30!
It will drop ( and lift ) you front 1.25" !

Pair that with a TB crank you can have 2.75" of lift!
With a body lift up to 5".

Here is the link to see more on the s10 forum:

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f220/have ... re-488910/

Hope you find it helpful, I will post a pic of a CC with this setup and 33" tires in a few.

[LMs10CrewCab]

Here's the link ( sorry can't get the photo to upload )

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f220/lets ... dex45.html

It's page 45 of "let's see your lifted IFS rigs"

User is "J27"

Post number "2244"

He has the setup -

1.5" tb crank, 2" shackles, 2" body lift and differencal drop.

Thanks

[curtisb]

Very Interesting. Id like to see it sold as a kit paired with just the new a arms

[AVTekk]

The bracket does not give you any lift at all, it simply lowers the differential so that the axles dont bind as badly. Its been available for quite some time, at least a year or 2. Also, the user "j27" completed a balljoint flip, which is absolutely needed with that much t-bar crank.

[LMs10CrewCab]

Thanks for the correction,
Sorry about that ...

But this will help the bad angles = less fixes and $ hopefully!

[AVTekk]

Yep, exactly, itll save your CV joints.

[Horsehammerr]

The bracket does not give you any lift at all, it simply lowers the differential so that the axles dont bind as badly. Its been available for quite some time, at least a year or 2. Also, the user "j27" completed a balljoint flip, which is absolutely needed with that much t-bar crank.

balljoint flip ??

[LMs10CrewCab]

A ball joint flip is when you mount your upper ball joints under the control arm instead of on top. helps with getting caster/camber closer to where it needs to be.

[LMs10CrewCab]

here I some info I found as well

I've got a solution to the alignment issues, ball joint angle, over twisted bars & harsh ride.


Earlier this week I did the "ball joint flip", meaning I mounted my ball joints on the underneath of the control arm. if you do, use grade 8 nuts & bolts with locktite on them.

not alot of info about flippin the 4wd blazer bj's. but damn, seems to be a common thing on the "fullsize" chevy IFS forums.I figure if its good enough for a fullsize, its good enough for my s-series

This is what i got out of it.
*front sat 1/2 inch higher for some reason, idk why but it did. so i got to de- crank my torsion bars quite a bit which in turn solved the harsh ride.
* ball joint is now pointing damn near straight down, like its supposed to be!
*after the flip i had positive camber like CRAZY literally looked like this \ / , as you know is the opposite of the problem we usually have. so now my alignment is spot on, & my cams are far from being maxed out.


Good stuff

anyone that says its a safety issue is smoking crack. those 4 bolts always have & always will take the full force of the suspension. they are not going to break. you will pull your ball joint stud out of its socket before you break those bolts.

[Horsehammerr]

A ball joint flip is when you mount your upper ball joints under the control arm instead of on top. helps with getting caster/camber closer to where it needs to be.

Are you talking about mounting the cap and all under the CA with only the grease fitting sticking through the hole in the CA ? Seems like a 1/2" longer ball joint would do the same thing.

[LMs10CrewCab]

hello again, i am new at this, so all this is info is what found searching .

take a look at this link, scroll down and there is a diagram.

s10 forum, liftin' it, 4wd ifs, how to: shackle/torsion lift, page 3, post # 105

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f220/how- ... ndex3.html

hope that helps.

[Horsehammerr]

Thanks LMs, that's exactly what I had in mind. I may try an additional spacer plate between the ball joint and CA to bring it down a little more. Maybe move it a full inch and decrank my TBs so that they are only cranked 1/2" instead of the max 1 1/2". That should take a lot out of the angle on my axles and relieve the stress on the CV joints,

[AVTekk]

Flipping the balljoint results in no lift, all it does is returns the upper control arm back closer to the original position from factory, keeping alignment in check and also allowing for more droop before hitting the bumpstop. I don't know why/how you saw 1/2" of lift after flipping it, perhaps you measured right after putting the truck back on the ground? It will need to be driven around the block for the suspension to settle.

A longer balljoint stud will only make your problems worse, as you are then moving the suspension pivot points away from the spindle. This will change your bumpsteer and effect the handling. Flipping the balljoint simply moves the control arm further away but keeps all the same pivot points.

[intimidator4x4]

I personally wouldn't advise a bj flip, as it seems to me you are putting all the stress and pressure on the bj itself. Where as in stock location, the bolts take some of the stress and pressure. This is just my opinion and observation.

[AVTekk]

You may have worded your statement backwards. In the stock location, the stress is shared between the bolts and control arm, once you flip it, all the stress is on the bolts. I can't say that Ive ever seen the bolts break but hey, anything can happen.

[Kjsdime]

Sounds to me like bj flip is a cheep and not reliable way to go in the long run. How about just getting aftermarket uppers??