Rough country 2.5" lift

[blaz]

I had a bit of rake on my blazer and I wanted that little bit more lift on the front so I finally pulled the trigger on the rough country lift.

I have only had it in for a week or so but I figured I would share my first impressions.

The lift is a budget kit for sure and the instructions are poor. An example of that is the instructions don't tell you to remove the CVs but they do tell you to reinstall them.
I only installed the front part of the lift and it took 11 hours as compared to the 4-6 hours the instructions say for the whole lift.
The t bar keys are only mildly off set from the factory ones.

Now the shocker. I am happy with the results. The ride is firmer but not bad. I prefer the level ride. How much lift did I actually gain? Only about 1.5 inches from the previous t bar crank I had and the CV angles are the same as before.

My buddy did a install write up and posted it here;

http://blazerforum.com/forum/lifting-te ... all-74701/

A picture for good measure.

[HenryJ]

Looks pretty good.
Did you lower the sway bar, or did they include new links?
Any worries about the lower ball joints? They have to be a quite an angle now.
How is the ride with the lower arms angled down that far now?
Are there install directions online?
What do you think of the kit?
Where did you buy it?
What did it cost?

[blaz]

I didn't lower the swaybar on the front, but I did remove the spacer between the two center bushings. It looks like it will be fine. There is a swaybar relocation kit for the rear but I didn't see a need for that because everything has been fine since I lifted the rear last year.

Some concern about the lower BJ's but it is still to early to tell. Again, I didn't go to the full crank height that RC recommends.

The ride is stiffer for sure but I am not bouncing off bumps.

The instructions are on line. http://www.roughcountry.com/install/242n2.pdf

The kit is reasonable for the price. Future updates will follow of course.

I bought it from one of our local suppliers for $575 Canadian with the steering stabilizer (which needs modded to work).


I did a lot of research before buying the kit. I am not disappointed because I know that you get what you pay for. If I wanted a long travel IFS set up this would not have been my choice. I was looking at this as a leveling kit with better upper ball joints.

[HenryJ]

... I didn't go to the full crank height that RC recommends.

Good choice. As long as you can still properly align it that should be a wise choice.

The instructions are on line. http://www.roughcountry.com/install/242n2.pdf

Very helpful! Thanx!

I was looking at this as a leveling kit with better upper ball joints.

Amen. Loads better than the other 2" suspension lifts that do not lower the front differential. How is the availability of the upper a-arm replacement ball joints? Is there and OEM equivalent replacement part?

How is the bump steer? I assume that the idler and pitman are still in the stock locations and the outer tie-rod angle is pretty steep?

It will be interesting to watch tire wear and see if the toe out under compression shows up. Care should be taken for a while at highway speeds. Hitting a hard bump at high speed and the resulting rapid toe out condition could result in some difficulty in maintaining control. Not likely to be scary bad, but might feel pretty loose at highway speeds. Knowing it and being ready for it would be the key.

[blaz]

The upper A arms came with MOOG problem solvers installed. I haven't checked to see what vehicle they are from ( 1/2 ton chevy is what I have heard ).

I haven't notices any bump steer yet. As you say, the TRE are at a steeper angle and will need to be watched. This was the reason I got the steering stabilizer as well. The RC bracket does not work because the U bolts would have to mount where the idler arm mounts to the cross link. Another reason to do some FAB work.

[blaz]

The measurements;

Ground to fender 38"
Center of wheel to fender 22.5"
Ground to the bottom of the front cross member 14"

All the fenders ended up at the same height with in about 1/16". Level looks perfect on the blazer. On a truck a slight rake looks good.

[HenryJ]

... The RC bracket does not work because the U bolts would have to mount where the idler arm mounts to the cross link. Another reason to do some FAB work.

If you have any issues with that steering stabilizer, you can install OEM. That is what I did. Most of the first gen blazers had the intermediate rod with the hole. Our trucks had the frame bracket and I suspect you do too. The stock relay rod (intermediate rod) from the first gen is a direct bolt in (plug-n-play) swap.
There is a thread around here about it somewhere.

[blaz]

Thanks HJ, I have checked out that thread a couple of times. Sometimes it seems as though I do more research than wrenching.

[blaz]

I went to get an alignment to follow up and it turns out my idler arm is worn out again. It is only about 3 months old so I think I will go with the 1 ton set up. It is a moog one so I could just replace it but 33's and rocks are hard on parts.

I went out this week end to try out the lift and so far so good (other than needing an alignment badly). The wheel wells don't contact the tires any more and that was though some pretty rough terrain.

[HenryJ]

Wonderful rig! Great pictures!

I am already pretty sure you know, but here it is anyway...You will need to perform a few special modifications to make the idler arm fit correctly > Pitman & Idler Arm Mod *Updated with Pics!*

Jerm,

Do you term it a failure because it doesn't last? How long does it last if you are not out wheelin' with it?

At this point I can't get the regular Moog idler arm to last more than about 3 months of normal street driving.........and that is REALLY pushing it. I should probably change them every 2 months or so for better tire life but I get around that by rotating evry 2500 miles or so. The size and weight of the BFG 32's just seem to put too much of a pounding on the idler and my driving style probably doesn't help. Our streets are in bad shape and I don't slow down through the intersections so the weakest link seems to pay for it lol. I guess I should be happy.............the idler acts like a fuse for the front end!

I had done the 3/4 switch several years ago but there was a little problem with interference when going to full lock (to the right I think) so I switched back and have regretted it ever since.

I am considering going back but it is so much fun switching the pitman out at the same time that I have avoided it.

Phil

For the amount of fabrication required to properly fit the 1-ton parts to the S-10 frame, and still have it fail every trip off-road....is a total failure in my opinion. It lasted longer, yes. But was still a failure at the end of the day. Not to mention that the 1-ton Pitman & Idler Arm push the center link further back from their original location, necessitating more mods (moving inner TRE's to front of CL) in an attempt to correct the geometry.....and the fact that full steering to the right is compromised because of inner TRE interference with the frame. It is one big goofy band-aid, with several, several wraps of duct tape added for good measure.

Given a clean slate, I would never go this route again. I would rather leave ALL of the stock parts completely alone and in place, and just find a way to anchor the CL beside the Idler, so that the ONLY thing the CL can do, is arc to the left or right along the original path GM intended. I know what would work....but I doubt it'll ever come to fruition. For what it would cost me to have a professional fabricator build this added component, just to eliminate the weak idler arm problem, I could probably do an SFA!!!

So for now, I'm throwing up the white flag on this long term project. And I HATE giving up!

I would say the One Ton swap is ill advised. Use the best OEM parts you can find and wait for the aftermarket system:

SS170 Idler Arm Support

[blaz]

Seeing that the snow is on the ground and I don't have a shop that will fit my blazer I decided to replace the idler with an AC Delco one. I took it in for an alignment and the pitman arm was also bad, so it was replaced. Huge difference! Time will tell if I need to upgrade in the future.

[HenryJ]

Sounds great! Be sure to lube them every oil change. I know it can be a PITA, but you really must do it.

[F9K9]

........

I'm genuinely impressed with your build and the effort that you have put forth, in doing your research. I've wheeled with Miles, in a couple of different states, and his hardheadedness has amazed me throughout the years. It does sound like he has finally started to accept things may not always be doable. Mind if, I ask where you are located it? It's not showing up for me.

[blaz]

Thank you for the kind words Gents. If it were not for others I would not have been able to do what I have done. Regular greasing is one of my chores I do in between oil changes as well as during. I work the components hard so I must reward them for a job well done.

I'm located in Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada. If any of the Crew Cabs are up this way be sure to let me know. I will take you out for some wheeling or drinks which ever floats your boat.

[F9K9]

.............I'm located in Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada. ...........

I didn't leave "nary a footprint" when I HINTED to you to help us assist you by telling us your location. Please fill out your profile. It helps us all and who knows, there could be a fellow CCer nearby that could lend a hand.

[Horsehammerr]

Sure would like to hear about your wheels. Size, brand, back spacing, you the details ? Please ?

[F9K9]

Sure would like to hear about your wheels. Size, brand, back spacing, you the details ? Please ?

They appear to be Camaro wheels but, I could be wrong.

[blaz]

So, the rims are..............wait for it.


Camaro Z28 rims!

The back spacing is 4.5" better than spacers up front.

http://www.tacreationsusa.com/camaro_wheels.htm

If you do a google search for blazers with Z28 rims you will see it is a fairly popular upgrade.

[_STUCKY]

So what's been the best idler arm so far?

[blaz]

The factory idler arm lasted the longest. The moog one lasted 6 months. The AC Delco one just went in. My budy did the one ton and it is holding up really well.

Long story short I don't know yet.

[HenryJ]

Watch for funny tire wear and handling with the one ton arm. With the arm alone watch the frame for cracking. Miles had horrible problems with his.

I think you made the right choice going with an OEM equivalent to maintain the geometry.

[_STUCKY]

What's the story on the Cognito Motorsports one? Will that ever see the light of day?

[HenryJ]

What's the story on the Cognito Motorsports one? Will that ever see the light of day?

Discussion in the private section of TXZR2.com is painfully slow. I don't see any more progress beyond the two prototypes thus far.