oh yeah, the spacer subject again...

[dougg01]

I am planning to buy a set of N90s and use spacers in the rear. !.5s most-likely.

I'd like to buy them now.

There are a number of vendors and this topic was covered some time ago so I am wondering if the recommendations have changed and there are other vendors that are 'okay'...?

Also, should I just limit (meaning - add some weld bead) my turning stops to keep the front tire off the frame or add a spacer...?

Of course, getting front spacers raises my spacer costs to that of a new set of steelies with the offset I want....

I plan to run 32s that will measure 31.6 or so on the 7.5 rim. 2" BL on the way before tires....and skidz cuts.

[HenryJ]

I am planning to buy a set of N90s and use spacers in the rear. !.5s most-likely... I am wondering if the recommendations have changed and there are other vendors that are 'okay'...?

I would buy the 1.25" wheel adapters from Completevalue again today.
The 1.25 " wheel adapters will be as close as you can get to matching the track width. Then time comes for the MML, you can move those to the front and buy 2"-3" for the rear. I liked the 3" rear for my MML.

...should I just ...add some weld bead, my turning stops to keep the front tire off the frame or add a spacer...?

You will do both in the end.

[dougg01]

Brule, right...?

Oh....those are $60ea...? They are not hub-centric. Is that a problem...? I found some hub-centric ones, but they are more $$$ and 2". I want to get spacers very soon.

The MML. This is where I want to be, but (you knew there was a but).

I do not want to run 32s (my plan) until I can secure 3.73s. The rear is a no-brainer, but the front is different. I've not been in one of these so my plan of attack was to find and secure a 3.73 front diff and be done with it. I also plan to visit the dealer and get the seals since it seems NO ONE else sells them for the front diff.

I am getting the truck programmed now for the 31s with my 3.42s. There are a number of reasons I chose to get it programmed verses doing it myself or just buying a box programmer.
1. I am not up on the OBDII stuff.
2. the software and logging tools are so stinking expensive.
3. the potential problems I could cause while learning OBDII and the new tools.
4. box programmers don't elimiate checks for cats, AIR, EGR, etc.

I know this is a process, but its clear if the trails are wet at all my current tires will leave me on the rim of most parts and the well-traveled places I could almost take my firebird on. Tires need to come. I've pretty much settled on the Kumho MT KL71.

Now to decide on my timeline for things....this is where 'life' and 'work' intersect and cut into 'play' and you have to discern what is reasonable and doable.

So....pulling in your 'experience' - here's the gist.

I've got a 94 S-10 ext-cab 2wd we're going to ressurect as a pre-runner looking thing as a backup for the Blazer (a must before I hit the trails again) and farm truck (soil, lumber, etc). I plan to put the 31" firestones on my truck on it (it needs tires bad). It will need different wheels then too, but that shouldn't be an issue.

I am doing the body lift on the blazer before any tires are moved, bought, etc.

the question is do I go ahead and push for the 3.73s on the Blazer now and do that work after the body lift THEN make the skidz cuts and get the 32s - all of which I want to finish before spring - OR - do I do the body lift and get a set of 31" MTs and wheel the truck as I gather the gears/diffs for the planned upgrade for the MML and 32s.

Ideally, I'd like to get 8.5 diff for the rear during all this too, but it is not a near-term requirement.

The eventual goal is to go SAS with a d44 in front using modded hubs so I can keep the wheel pattern and the brakes. This is going to be down the road some as I still need to get wheeling experience and time in the seat before tackling harder terrain with a DD.

The 8.5 will be desired regardless because there will eventually be more power added and a trip to the dragstrip now and then. The 7.5 ain't going to like a mild stall and 300hp or so in a 5,000lb rig.

the spacers.....I'm going to order soon and then get the N90s to put new tires on.....regardless of the size. The 31" Firestones go on the 2wd Sten with shackles, spindles, and springs. Being 2wd this is about all I can do to make it more viable in our neck of the woods and useful on our property.

Wow...another of my typical 'short, concise, to-the-point' posts.

[HenryJ]

Hub-centric is nice, but I have never had a set and the lug-centric worked just fine. I would have no problem buying them again.

If all you need is to change tire size the dealer can do that with the TechII. Up to a 31" tire which was stock on the RPO ZR2. That would cost $25-$50 usually, unless you "know" someone. It takes about 10 minutes to do that.

[dougg01]

I need more than tire fix. If I that was all I'd just get a box tuner for that...even the small ones (<$200) do that. My problems are larger like !cat, intake and exhaust mods, etc. The truck isn't liking much of what I've done. The PCM in 1997 wasn't as good as in 2000. My Jimmy dealt with this stuff much better.

[dougg01]

works nicely.

not quite day/night, but darn close. Significant stability improvement in turns and straight.

[Horsehammerr]

Check out a Steering Stabilizer Kit on LMC.com. $ 59.95 and a nice smooth control feature all S-10's should have. I put one on my CC after going wider and taller tires. Much less wondering in wind on highway.