need advice - went wheeling and need more clearance.

[dougg01]

2000 Jimmy 4dr, trimming, 1.5" tbar and 2" shackles running 31x10.50 ATs on stock rims.

I got into the inner fender well some, rubbed the front fascia (which is trimmed), rolled the passenger-side front fender lip in and the driver's-side out. Lots of tail dragging.

Planning on a 2" BL.

that said, I am also going to get some short add-a-leafs this week because when the truck has all the gear in it the rear sags some.

Will the 2" BL eliminate the fender rub or do I need to get the BFH and sawzall out again...?

Can I run 265/75s with this combo and still not rub...?

what offset wheel or spacer will I need to rid myself of frame rub at full lock and still not look like a pregnant roller-skate....? I've heard 1.25 in rear and .75 up front....but I don't really know for sure.

I'm hooked. There'll be no SFA because making it that capable will lead to bending it. This is my DD so that is not the plan. IFS will keep me off the big rocks and super ugly climbs. I do wish one of you would donate a 8.5" diff....

I put the torsen in for anyone who remembers me debating the lock-rite. The torsen worked great. Airing down to around 20psi, disco the front sway bar (I made a quick connect), and the spare to the top kept the truck moving along without much drama and virtually no wheelspin. What a BLAST. Kept up with some mostly-stock Rubis and they were quite impressed. If it had been muddy I might not had got as far.

I'd posted pics but I was linking from photobucket and it say I had to use smaller pictures.

Thanks.

[F9K9]

2000 Jimmy 4dr, trimming, 1.5" tbar and 2" shackles running 31x10.50 ATs on stock rims.........

2" Shackles or shackles that gave you 2" lift.

.........Will the 2" BL eliminate the fender rub or do I need to get the BFH and sawzall out again...?

It should eliminate the majority of rub. I don't recall if you installed the full size bumper stops or not.

what offset wheel or spacer will I need to rid myself of frame rub at full lock and still not look like a pregnant roller-skate....? I've heard 1.25 in rear and .75 up front....but I don't really know for sure..

I am not as familiar with the Blazers but, welding a bead or 2 on your steering stops will keep you out of the frame.

I've seen your photos and write up on your trip. Looks like you had a ball. Excellent write up. Don't get to close to those stock Rubis or let them discover what they are really capable of or you will all be in the poor house.

[dougg01]

I hear ya on the poor house thingy. If this wasn't my DD I'd do more and would really look at the SFA...but it's clear if you build a rig to go at most anything, you will, and it will get damage. That kind of thing isn't for a vehicle you depend on.

I didn't know anything about the full-size stops. Got a part number and a place to get them...? Does this keep you from stuffing the tire too far into the well..?

I'll weld a tab on the stops this weekend to keep the tires off the frame. It isn't really hurting the tires (I think) but it is very annoying.

What about wheel spacers or rim backspacing...?

Is a ZR2 wheel opening larger than stock or is that an optical illusion due to the flare...?

[F9K9]

Do a search for bump stops with HenryJ as the author. They kinda of dawned on me when we were racing against darkness in Moab and a small whoop would appear before I could slow down. The resulting sound was terrible but, no real damage occurring. With our 33s it's the tires hitting the firewall and that is the limit of our rigs.

If, I understand your question correctly, yes, the ZR2s have a larger front fender wheel opening. Their frame is narrower in front of the cab to compensate for the 31's turning radius but, where the firewall meets the inner fender is the same limiting factor for them.

If, you add spacers up front you will likely get into the lower corner of the front wheel opening sheet metal more.

[Horsehammerr]

Hey dougg01, I'm running 8x15 wheels with 3 3/4" back spacing. I have no inside rub problems anywhere. I have done the Skidz Flare cuts to front and back wheel wells , along with my ZR5 flares to get as much clearance as possible. The only rub I get now is the top of my front wheel wells at the fender flares. This is because , with the back spacing on my wheels , they stand 1 1/2" outside the opening. This rub only happens when I take a dip, bump, or get air going to fast. Easing along I NEVER hit or rub anything. Read my Sig. for all I've done.

[dougg01]

Since I don't have flares and for a 4dr that's not an easy task I'd have to use a different offset.

The stops sound like a good idea.

How about spacers in the rear to widen the track back there....? Not only does it look ducky, a wider rear track might help with the stability and feel. I see some use 1", other 1.25" and some 1.5". What's your recommendation and why...?

Everyone on here has nice rigs.

I hit a couple holes last Saturday wheeling at DTOR that caught me by surprise and I didn't care for the sound things made. One was across a cut so the whole front bottomed at once. That's not what rubbed the lower side of my front fascia....

Add-a-leafs will be here today.... Now I'm trying to figure out when I can buy a 2" BL. You know...I'm probably going to end up buying something with solid axles one day...

[blaz]

I have a 2005 2 door blazer on 31's. Currently I have a 2" body lift a 1" T bar crank and 1" of lift shackles (2" hole to hole increase). I have not yet done any trimming, though if I were to use swaybar disco's I would rub. With a body lift you should be OK seeing that you have already trimmed. I would stick with the stock rims and build up the steering stops with weld if you are going to stay with the 31's. You are definately on the right path.

Where are the pics? Throw up a link for us, PLEASE!

[dougg01]

Okay. I'll post here for now and later when I get a chance I'll add a new thread. This time I didn't get much because I only had the boys and we were having too much fun wheeling to stop and take a picture. That and there weren't a lot of places in the more rugged spots to leave the truck safely and take a shot. I need a camera person...

Just the photo album - no videos or the write up. I'll add that later.

http://s287.photobucket.com/albums/ll13 ... dventures/

Tell me what you think.

[HenryJ]

Adding springs to the back and fullsize stops on the front is going to help. If you are not yet running Bilstein HD shocks, add them to your list. Making the Skidz fender cuts on the front might give you a little more room if you need it.
Looks like you are going where you want to right now. Enjoy the ride

[dougg01]

Adding springs to the back and fullsize stops on the front is going to help. If you are not yet running Bilstein HD shocks, add them to your list. Making the Skidz fender cuts on the front might give you a little more room if you need it.
Looks like you are going where you want to right now. Enjoy the ride

Is there a how-to on the skidz cuts...? I have trimmed some, but it's clear more will need to be done even after I do the 2" BL. I have all that plastic body junk on the sides of the Jimmy that WILL come off this winter, weld up the holes and paint. We'll end up fabbing a new rear bumper when the BL goes on.

Did the add-a-leap today. Disassembled everything and painted. Sit high in the butt right now. Rear wheel opening is 36.5" off the ground...!!! Front is only 34.5". There has got to be a cheap way to lift the front on these things...beyond Tbar. Lower the front diff and the control arm points some....


The ride doesn't feel much stiffer in the rear. It was sitting on the overloads much of the time.

[HenryJ]

...Is there a how-to on the skidz cuts...?

Yes - Skidz Cut-out Flares install

There has got to be a cheap way to lift the front on these things...beyond Tbar. Lower the front diff and the control arm points some....

Nope. Adjust to the maximum Z height, add the fullsize bump stops and be happy.

Check out the sway bar disconnects to help out the articulation and remove the rear sway bar if you have one. That will make it really float over the terrain.

[dougg01]

...Is there a how-to on the skidz cuts...?

Yes - Skidz Cut-out Flares install

There has got to be a cheap way to lift the front on these things...beyond Tbar. Lower the front diff and the control arm points some....

Nope. Adjust to the maximum Z height, add the fullsize bump stops and be happy.

Check out the sway bar disconnects to help out the articulation and remove the rear sway bar if you have one. That will make it really float over the terrain.

Thanks Henry...

sway bar disco was done and the poly-bushed rear bar is gathering rust out by a pile of tractor parts. The Skids cuts, bump stops, and 2" BL will net me clearance for what size tire without rubbing too much...?

[HenryJ]

I'm running 33/9.50-15 with a winch on the front using that combination. You may have some trouble fitting 33 on the back of the Blazer 4 door though. 31's should fit with no rubbing would be my guess.

[dougg01]

I'm running 33/9.50-15 with a winch on the front using that combination. You may have some trouble fitting 33 on the back of the Blazer 4 door though. 31's should fit with no rubbing would be my guess.

The 31s I have now don't get close to the wheel well in the rear. On full twist the tires rub the rubber splash shields near the frame. That's why I was asking about spacers for the rear only.

Hmm 33s. Are you still on 3.42s or did you swap to 3.73s...?

I think I am doing the skidz cut to the front fender in the next few days and welding the seams later (I'll pop rivet initially). I've got all this plastic body cladding stuff to remove and weld those holes shut.

I used to know where all the pictures were on the forum of the member's trucks, but I am not finding it right now... Where...?

[HenryJ]

Mine came with the optional G80 and 3.73 gears. You will want to stay with the 31" tires unless you re-gear.

Readers Rides in the NOS has the pictures.

[dougg01]

Check that....I looked and drooled....again.!!!

My plan is to do the skidz cuts and ditch the body cladding - body work - prime (paint later).

Might do this before the next wheeling trip.

Bump stops.

2" BL.

then I'll source a 3.73 front diff and either do gears in the rear (which I have a set of GM 3.73s available) or find a 8.5" diff.

33" tires are coming to the Jimmy. No...it's still no a rubi, but it will get me more than I will tackle in my DD. We're probably already there, but I like to be prepared.

Fun.

You all should have a clear link to the MML. I couldn't find one, but I'm getting old and dumb.

[HenryJ]

...then I'll source a 3.73 front diff and either do gears in the rear (which I have a set of GM 3.73s available) or find a 8.5" diff.

Find an 8.5" diff. That will widen the rear 3" and give you a much stouter axle. It wins hands down in my book.

[blaz]

8.5" ZR2 rear axle. There are 8.5's with the narrower width. Just a heads up.

[Steventruck]

When you guys swap over the ZR2 rear axle, do you add the ZR2 panhard bar/track bar too?

Steve

[HenryJ]

When you guys swap over the ZR2 rear axle, do you add the ZR2 panhard bar/track bar too?

I didn't. I'm not sure what would be required to add the upper mount and you would need to relocate the right shock to the front of the axle, then move the exhaust pipe to clear that....Hmmm. Not that easy , nor really needed I guess.

[dougg01]

I was just wondering.

The rear seems to wriggle some. Springs need another leaf and I don't really want to use the short add-a-leaf any more and the long lifts it up too much. Might scavenge from the spare leaf packs and shorten the #2 (1st after main leaf) and redrill for the pads. Add a bit of rate, but not too much perhaps.

I do want to control wheel hop and a traction bar is not an off-road friendly solution. A lateral shock setup would work, but how to place it on this rig is the question.

A torque arm might be possible and since I am a 4th-gen F-body person....the engineering of that is not beyond my comprehension. So many other things are.....

[HenryJ]

...
I do want to control wheel hop and a traction bar is not an off-road friendly solution. A lateral shock setup would work, but how to place it on this rig is the question...

Do a search for the "third shock" or "Hop shock"
The 2wd had an option for those that should bolt on. It has been done and I had considered it at one point.

[dougg01]

...
I do want to control wheel hop and a traction bar is not an off-road friendly solution. A lateral shock setup would work, but how to place it on this rig is the question...

Do a search for the "third shock" or "Hop shock"
The 2wd had an option for those that should bolt on. It has been done and I had considered it at one point.

and available, bolt-on bracket...? That'd be nice.

I've been at work so much lately I still haven't ordered my steering stabilizer and rear shocks....and all the stuff my wife's Suburban needs for a front driveline rebuild (CVs, hubs, outer diff bearings and seals).

[Steventruck]

Also, The ZR2 axle has a bigger pumpkin (to hold the bigger gears). It would stand to reason that the pinion/yoke would be further forward and swaping this axle in place of a 7.5/7.6 would mandate a shorter driveshaft. Was this the case for any of you or could you just swap it in?

[HenryJ]

Also, The ZR2 axle has a bigger pumpkin (to hold the bigger gears). It would stand to reason that the pinion/yoke would be further forward and swaping this axle in place of a 7.5/7.6 would mandate a shorter driveshaft. Was this the case for any of you or could you just swap it in?

Bolts right in. No need for a shorter driveshaft. There is no noticeable difference in the length of the pinion.
Some years did use a different U-joint, but mine was the same.

If you have any doubts or want to know more about the swap: ZR2 axle upgrade