Comments On PA-192 Body Lift

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Tue Jan 06, 2004 3:00 pm

After doing the body lift I feel that I should share my experience and opinions on the PA-192. First of all it took me about 11 hour to complete, and I think I could have done it in 8 hours if I had air tools. The instruction were pretty good except for a few problems worth noting.
#1. I didn't remove the plastic air scoop, I just drilled 2 small holes for access to the allen head bolts on the oil filter bracket. These type of pull clips break sometimes when removed.
#2. There was no need to remove and relocate my positive cable terminal box. There was still plenty of slack in all the wires going to the box.
#3. There was no need to remove and relocate my differential actuator. There was still plenty of slack in the wires.
#4. I didn't remove the fuel filler assembly, as there was still just enough slack in the hose to flex with the bed. I didn't have the right extensions anyway. The kit had rubber extensions instead of the metal ones we need. I am going to have them sent to me anyway and do the splice thing since it will make me feel better about the hoses having more room to flex.
#5. Go buy four 12mm nylon lock nuts for the rear bumper. They sent four 14mm nuts.
#6. Do the battery and air filter last!
I would also like to point out that the washers supplied for the body mount bolts suck bad. If you compare the stock washers with the washers in the kit you will see what I mean. The worst ones are the front radiator core support washers. they are nowhere near as wide or thick as the stock washers. They should have given us the correct diameter and thickness washers since these take all the stress of the body mounts. Heat treated washers would also be nice.

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Jan 06, 2004 5:53 pm

Sounds like similar experiences. I'm surprised that the actuator cable had plenty of slack for the lift. My 2001 was marginal at best, so I moved it. Although Mello's 2003 had plenty of slack.
Don't feel bad about the amount of time it took, I took 12 hours to do mine, including mount and balance of new tires.

Good point on the washers, I had forgotten that I switched mine, and Mello's for hardened washers

Mike H. · Post by **Mike H.** » Tue Jan 06, 2004 7:37 pm

It took me about 10-12 hours to complete, WITH air tools. But also including a wasp attack, 2 stings, and torn muscle running from the wasps, and inability to move my leg the rest of the time thereafter.

#1. I didn't have a problem with them, but they do seem very fragile.
#2. Ditto.
#3. Ditto.
#4. I unscrewed the top to check tension and to unwrap the ground wire from the filler tube. I also got the wrong extensions but never worried about it - don't seem tight. The rubber ones are for the ZR2.
#5. Ditto.
#6. Ditto.

You didn't get wasps with your kit?????? Got pics?

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Wed Jan 07, 2004 7:46 am

Mike H. wrote:You didn't get wasps with your kit?????? Got pics?

No wasps. Did you have to pay extra for them? The only thing I had to deal with was some rain and freezing temperatures. I really need to get a digital camera to document these mods.

adrenalnjunky · Post by **adrenalnjunky** » Wed Jan 07, 2004 7:56 am

I noticed all the same things -- didnt relocate anything. I had the PA 152 though, and I did have to cut all of my fuel filler lines, but my tank is a lot different than all of yours -- nice leak I have in a line too--keeps tripping the SES light -- that's this weekend's project.

Only forgot to drill a new hole in my bumper to be able to lower my spare tire properly

hope I don't get a flat right now.

That bumper was such a PITA going back on with my hitch and all other brackets that I do not wish to remove it again, but once you drill a pilot hole, the unibit I have to drill the 3/4" hole I need won't go deep enough before hitting the winch assembly.

If I had a drill with a 1/2 inch chuck on it, I'd be fine, but these 3/8th inch chucked drills I have , I cna't find a stepped down 3/4 inch bit. All I cna find are 1/2 as the biggest that can fit in a 3/8 chuck.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Wed Jan 07, 2004 9:41 am

adrenalnjunky wrote: If I had a drill with a 1/2 inch chuck on it, I'd be fine, but these 3/8th inch chucked drills I have , I cna't find a stepped down 3/4 inch bit. All I cna find are 1/2 as the biggest that can fit in a 3/8 chuck.

Try getting a step drill or a hole saw. Summit sells a nice step drill that ranges from 1/4" to 3/4" for about $20, but you should be able to get one at any hardware store. The hole saw also works, but they tend to take more effort to use. If you get a hole saw make sure you get one that made for metal.

adrenalnjunky · Post by **adrenalnjunky** » Wed Jan 07, 2004 9:55 am

Unibit is the brand name for a stepped drill bit -- it's all I have ever heard those types of bit referred to as -- it's called "item branding" in Marketing circles, and you pray that your product picks up that trait -- It's like referring to any brand of facial tissues as Kleenex, or any type of in-line skates as Rollerblades. sorry for the confusion

And the holesaw won't work because I've already tried the stepped bit so there is a hole that is too big for the guide bit in the holesaw.

I'll fix it this weekend somehow.

G-man · Post by **G-man** » Tue Sep 18, 2007 7:09 pm

i had some of the same problems.. the most annoying being the fact that i had 2 drill out some of the holes on the brackets they provided.. i did most of the project by myself and completed it in about 11 hours..

BobbleSmitty · Post by **BobbleSmitty** » Tue Sep 18, 2007 7:25 pm

Hey G-man, welcome to the forum! Looks like you live 10 minutes away. Got any pics of your truck??

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Fri Jun 19, 2009 10:25 am

I have a bunch of these types of threads saved. I have an 03, so I know my stock line will work, I just need to do the above.

I know im gonna need a long extension too. We have one But I dont think its long enough so ill get a longer one.

I know im gonna ned a 1/2 to 3/8 socket adapter for those stubbord 1/2" sockets that are 12 point, so i can use 3/8 6 points.

But really my only question is, whats the best way to lift the body? We have a floor jack, craftsman, I cant recall how high it goes, but im sure ill need a 2x4 to help increase it (plus distrubute weight).

Do you just jack each side up from the center of the body and that will raise the entire side (then slide in your jack stands of course)? Any thing I should know about that or any thing else off the top of your heads you wanna enlighten me with? lol.

I got my PA192 kit today, I wasnt expecting it to be shipped till monday! Tommorow is the girlfriends Birthday, Doh! But I have all day Sunday, all day monday. Work monday night, but if im not done I have other vehicles. Then all day tuesday till 10pm when its work time

edit- ohh, i bet ill need longer tubing for my tranny cooler too. Man, thats a pain to get too, plus that tubing is expensive.

and a big one.. did any one have any issues with any lines or any sort being stretched, or binding during the lift?

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 12:44 am

Gonna start this Sunday, any fast tips (especially on lifting the body) is greatly appreciated

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 5:11 am

Print the install file and read it. Follow those instructions for lifting closely. Lift the side it calls for first and lift no higher than it takes to just slip the blocks in there. Watch the wiring to the PCM closely to make sure it doesn't get pulled. Take your time and plan on it taking 12 hours.
That is how long it took me. There are those that are able to work like a Nascar team and do it in half the time. It is not a competition. Do it right the first time and take the time YOU need.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 5:36 am

Print off the BDS BL instuctions, as well. Better photos and a different view of the BL. No bumper brackets so, ignore everything related to them.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 5:50 am

I have read through the PA192 instructions a few times before i even got my kit actually. Never did see the DBS instructions, ill read through those. They are a heck of a lot shorter?

Im gonna start by 7:30am at the latest, Hoepfully get it dont in one day, if not, ill have monday till 5pm when i need to head into work. Plenty of time. *knock on wood*

But my biggest question is, when lifting the body, do you just jack it from the center of the cab and thats it? (then repeat on the other side)

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 5:52 am

fallvitals wrote:when lifting the body, do you just jack it from the center of the cab and thats it? (then repeat on the other side)

Yes. Take your best guess as to the balance point.
Work someplace that you don't get attacked. Wasps and bees are known to interfere with a body lift.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 6:11 am

It only hurts for a second.

DLP · Post by **DLP** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 6:26 am

I used a piece of 4x4 that was about 3' long. I thought it might even the weight out a little better than just having the jack kit in one spot. I didn't want to dent in the floor either. But the cab wasn't really that heavy to bend the floors in. My son and I did ours in sections instead of trying to blow it out all at once. Worked on a section until it was finished. Then gathered up the loose tools. Took a break and read over what we wanted to do next. Seemed to make it easier getting the rite tool without crawling around on the floor looking for THAT socket!

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 4:31 pm

Alrighty, inventroried my kit, its all there. Im going out to Lowes now to get grade 8 washers for the body mounts in place of the kit washers was recommended.

Theres on thing in my kit that I dont know what its for... Its simply a piece of round stock. About 1/2" OD and 1 3/4-2" long. Sides were grinded smooth. I cant find anything about it in the intructions????

Oh and the "J-Shaped ground strap" wasnt in my bag liek it should have been, but I had an extra piece laying loose in the box.. confused I IDed it in the intrustions as my missing peice, lol.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 5:32 pm

Eh, had to settle for grade 5 washers. grade 8 washers for some reason are not as wide? Atleast the ones at Lowes werent. But I have some hardened washers to put on it

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 6:31 pm

fallvitals wrote:..........Theres on thing in my kit that I dont know what its for... Its simply a piece of round stock. About 1/2" OD and 1 3/4-2" long. Sides were grinded smooth. I cant find anything about it in the intructions????...........

Doesn't sound familiar. You have been spraying things, haven't you? Hit it again tonite, especially the bumper fasteners!

It really is educational and is a great step in learning about your rig. The BL will seem like child's play if, you hang onto your rig.

I am sure that allot of members will check in and out tomorrow to see if, any crisis develops.

I'll be doing some wrenching myself tomorrow and will assist if, I can. However, if, you haven't presoaked that puppy, I will disown you!

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 7:21 pm

f9k9 wrote:
I'll be doing some wrenching myself tomorrow and will assist if, I can. However, if, you haven't presoaked that puppy, I will disown you!

I sprayed it today. Didnt have time friday, I was busy all day before I went to work, I got done working and litterally had 15 minutes to take a cold shower to cool down, and go to work, lol. I didn't plan on starting to soak any thing on it till monday, cause The kit was predicted not to ship till the 22nd! I was thinking next weekend would be the install weekend!

I have read through the instructions a few times tonight, it seems like it would only take 2 hours to get to the spacer install portion, yeah I know it is gonna take longer, but it really doesnt seem bad at all. *knock on wood*

Well I need to get to bed shortly, hopefully by midnight, lol, so I can start my install by 7am.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 7:48 pm

fallvitals wrote:.........I have read through the instructions a few times tonight, it seems like it would only take 2 hours to get to the spacer install portion, yeah I know it is gonna take longer, but it really doesnt seem bad at all. *knock on wood*........

I suddenly noticed a lack of waterfowl in the Commonwealth of KY.

Good luck, Mr. Brown!

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 8:02 pm

f9k9 wrote:
fallvitals wrote:.........I have read through the instructions a few times tonight, it seems like it would only take 2 hours to get to the spacer install portion, yeah I know it is gonna take longer, but it really doesnt seem bad at all. *knock on wood*........
I suddenly noticed a lack of waterfowl in the Commonwealth of KY.

Good luck, Mr. Brown!

LMAO. Thats what I should do, invite the bosses over, have them light a fire under my butt, ill get it done in record time! LOL.

I am aiming to get it done in one day. I think that would be fantastic. Every thing except the hitch and step bars anyways. I'll do that next weekend since I plan to paint the exposed frame black. If not I have till 5pm monday to get it done before work

Plenty of time, and it isnt, I may have to give you some gas money to bring your school bus up here to get-r-done,

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 8:41 pm

fallvitals wrote:................I am aiming to get it done in one day..........

Stop provoking the almighty mod and duck spirits and talk to us tomorrow night!

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Sun Jun 21, 2009 8:54 am

Tking a short break. I woke up before my alarm at 6am, still looked dark, so i changed it to 6:45 went back to sleep, I awoke at 8:15. lol. I didnt turn the alarm on, doh!

After getting dressed, getting all the tools out, I started at about 8:45. Only problems I had so far was when I was removing the gril I had a stubbord light and when it finally broke free I lost my grip on the grill and it hit the concrete sending both my my new $95 cleap bumpers lights flying out. it broke one of the mounting leafs on it (the one that resembles a mushroom). Popped t back into the grill and still seems pretty tight.

Just got done with that oil cooler line. Probably spent 45 minutes on it... what a pain in the ass. I got the first nut off so far thinking, shew done. Then discovered it only held the wire harness, theres another nut for the oil lines.

Decided the wire harness was getting a zip tie during assembly, took forever to lossen the second nut only 1/8" and it was enough to loosen the bracket and twist the clamp sideways to free the lines. Now back to it. Unless I have some stubord bolts, the back should be hard. Just got to remove the fuel filler line, and back bumper then start the install process.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Sun Jun 21, 2009 9:48 am

Question?

Does the ZR5 (in my case 2003) have a OEM hitch? Im thinking it doesnt... Because the cirections for an OEM hitch dont make sence. I see 8 bolts in total holding that bumper on, so im gonna go take it off now.

Also, I am thinking it is aftermarket, and the way its made, looks like It may give me an extra inch or two for a 33" spare (I was reading some folks had issues wtith their hitches).....

Ill find out soon enough, lol.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Jun 21, 2009 10:17 am

They were not standard for ZR5s but, it was an option. The cross piece has 3 bolts into the each end piece. the end pieces tied into each frame rail with three bolts. You're going to have to drill the end pieces to raise it or it will look goofy hanging down.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Sun Jun 21, 2009 10:23 am

Hm, well got the bumper off. Next step is installing the lift.

Yeah I read about raising the hitch and step bars. Would it be best to wait till the lift is done before taking off the hitch and modifying it?

It might be the optional hitch? It does have the 3 bolts on the end like you mentioned.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Jun 21, 2009 11:29 am

Up to you. Easier to take off now if, you don't need it.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Sun Jun 21, 2009 1:11 pm

Dinner break. I was doing good (time wise) up to about 2. Then I realized how crappy our jack really is. Spent a while fabricating, calling friends to see if they had a tall jack. Well our jack probably only goes 14" high. So I had to nail 7 2x4s together to be able to lift it enough to install the spacers. Just got done with the cab, Need to tighten em up, then start lifting the bed.

I doubt ill get done today, but shouldnt have much to finsih up tommorow. If thats the case, ill just do the hitch today, or tommorow, which ever. and probably just take the step bars off till I have time to paint the frame, then put em back on and raise em.

Jongo88 · Post by **Jongo88** » Sun Jun 21, 2009 2:21 pm

Cool... I'm going to do mine this winter. It is way to hot now...

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Sun Jun 21, 2009 7:00 pm

Update.

Didn't finish today. I started installing the spacers at 2pm, and didnt get done till about 7:30 with that part... Looking back im still not exactly sure how I drug my feet so bad. But it was done right.

Out of curiosity. Would it be possible to damage those plastic blocks from over torquing? I was using a 1/2" drive and braker bar to snug em down really well. Possibly too well?

(EDIT, I now see in the instructions, to only torque the bed spacers to 55lbs. Im sure I went double that with the 1/2" drive and breaker bar... I didnt even bother to read the details on how to install the bed spacers after I got them in place and finished the front....)

Anyways, got all the spacers in, and fuel filler installed. I had an issue with the fuel filler. It wasnt long enough for me. Plus mine didnt look like the one pictured any where in the manual

I mean it had the ZR model "funnel" top to it, but it went into a "z-shaped" tube directly to the gas tank. Not like pictured. Anyways. It was too short. We fixed this by unclamping the top portion from the tube, there was about 1 1/2" of meterial clamped. Pulled about 1" out, clamped it back down, and it worked. Went ahead an reconnected a few lines too.

Didnt have any problems with any thing stretching during the lift. I left the diff actuator in place as reccomended, as well as the postive box. i still have plenty of hose on my tranny cooler. The air ramp. I drilled two holes like someone else did here to acess the oil filter mounting bracket. Becuase I already broke one of those clips when i did my tranny cooler! lol.

Too Be Continued!

*Jongo, it really isnt that bad. A lot easier then I thought, just time consuming, if you are a handy man, and not a sissy, its no problem. Except that damned oil cooler bracket!

And, dont sweat, just do it! Cold weather is a long ways off! Today was 85 or so, and wasnt too bad. Only time i was really sweating was fighting with a few stubbord bolts and the oil pan bracket.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Mon Jun 22, 2009 1:51 pm

Update #2.

Got up latyer then I planned. Then had to go do some ditch digging. Had about 4 hours to work on the truck before I got to work in a few minutes. I got the hitch raised. That was a pain because some how I got on of the holes about 1/2" off

but Thank goodness we recently got a free hand me down drill press from my grandmother's neighbor. I got a 14.4V Dewalt drill. And it drained the bettery before it made one hole.

Got the rear bumper back on, Connected the few wires in the back. So now, i just have the whole front to do. Which shouldn't take long.

If it wasn't for the ditch diggin' I would be driving to work in my truck right now I bet!

Jongo88 · Post by **Jongo88** » Mon Jun 22, 2009 2:37 pm

Good deal.. It is 98 down here today and feels like 108. I will wait until winter....

DLP · Post by **DLP** » Mon Jun 22, 2009 8:38 pm

Brings back memories of doing mine. Sounds like you are having good luck.

We just lifted my son's Cherokee. The instructions said 6 to 8 hours. After a full saturday and Sunday, we finished up Monday night! Nothing good comes easy!

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Tue Jun 23, 2009 1:48 pm

108? nevermind! lol.

Done! kinda. Only thing left to do is remove the step bars, paint the frame and put the step bars back (raised).

I did have an issue with the front bumper side brackets. Both sides were about 1/2" too low after modifying the bracket. Took the trusty hammer to the drivers side bracket to, motivate it, up. it worked, looks good. Passanger side... I couldnt get it to move up... Got tired of fighting with it, gettig close to work time, plus time needed to clean up so I decided to mess with it another time. And i ment to solder the joints for my quad headlights too, but time ran out.... no bigge ill get it done by this weekend.

Then the best part. Went to start my truck, and it started to turn over then nothing. Same thign again. Tried it again and gassed it, was going fine till I let off of it. Then died.

Went to check stuff, and I left the vacum hose off of the air intake. Put it back on, whalaa! But I will admit I was freakin' for a second! lol.

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Jun 23, 2009 3:04 pm

fallvitals wrote:....I will admit I was freakin' for a second! lol.

Me too! I had a flash of Hobie and the wires he tore out of the PCM doing his lift.

Nice accomplishment. I am sure you like the look of your "TRUCK" better now. Say good bye to soccer moms lusting after your four door low rider.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Tue Jun 23, 2009 4:52 pm

Jongo88 · Post by **Jongo88** » Tue Jun 23, 2009 4:59 pm

I know you are going to post us some pictures...

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Wed Jun 24, 2009 12:46 am

Oh yes, much more like a truck now. Funny part is, im only 3 items away from completing the Mystery Lift (spacers, skidz cuts, 33x9.5 tires). Funny part, I said I would NEVER do all that to my truck the first time I read it.

But as it sets now, its very ZR2 like. If GM had made these in a ZR2, or some kind of option that resembles my truck as is now, I bet the crew cab would have been a bigger seller.

Yes Yes, pictures in time, I will post em in my Lift Journal thread. Don't want to keep ya waiting, But I want to paint the frame and lift the step bars first, plus wash the dirty thing. So, probably this weekend ill have some pictures up.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Sat Jun 27, 2009 8:47 pm

two questions, the crush blocks, is there a trick to getting that self tapping bolt started? Ratchet wont fit, and for the life of me i couldnt get the threads started with a wrench. I think ill just need to get something to push down on the wrench with... but what exactly is that crush block for?

And. I want to paint my exposed frame black. Its actually pretty black now with very little flaking of the underbody coating. Buddy of mine thinks he can get me, and him some extra cans of undercoating spray from his work, (he has before). Whats the best way to prep the frame to get this stuff to stick? Just a wire brush then soap and water?

DeiselRed · Post by **DeiselRed** » Tue Jun 30, 2009 8:59 am

It seems that people have having problems with installing the fuel filler extension. Like said, Do you actually need to install the fuel filler extension or is there enough slack in the line to just loosen the clamps and stretch it to its full extension? Im doing my PA 192 lift this weekend and I am just wondering if you guys think it should be done. And I will be getting 4 12 mm nylon lock nuts as well. I have air tools and other goodies to help with this project so im excited to get this thing going.

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Jun 30, 2009 9:12 am

I did not use the extension on my 2001 with the steel tank. There was plenty of slack to loosen and extend them a little.

Keep in mind that some have cracked the filler connection on the plastic fuel tank. I don't recall if this was a related issue, but keep it in mind.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Tue Jun 30, 2009 9:30 am

Not sure what year yours is, depending on year, you have a differnt type of filler hose.

Mines an 03 zr5, and it bascially has the filler hose clamped to a piece of ruber hose, going to the plastic fuel tank. I read on here that every one had enough slack, and didnt need to do an extension. That wasn't the case for me. I also read how someone broke the neck of their fuel tank while very easily trying to remove the hose. So I wasn't about to try and remove the hose from the fuel tank.

What I did, was there was about 1 3/4" of the filler neck going into the rubber hose. We just slowly work the filler neck out of their till we got an extra inch of length and clamped it back down. Worked pretty well.

And if you have just a crappy 1.5 ton jack, get a bunch of 2x4s, and nails together to raise that body so you dont spend a lot of time messing around with it liek I did (see above).

DeiselRed · Post by **DeiselRed** » Tue Jun 30, 2009 11:31 am

I also have a 03 ZR-5 in Red. Alright then so I will pretty much just do what you said and work the filler neck out slowly to get that extra length. And I have good jacks and some 2x4's haha. Air tools too!!!

Should be a fun time. Im paying my buddy to do it this weekend. Hes a good mechanic. Thank you for the info though fallvitals.

jedthrocornpone · Post by **jedthrocornpone** » Sat Jul 04, 2009 12:04 pm

did the install on my 03 Zr5 yesterday went ok me and my buddy got FILTHY

#1. I didn't remove the plastic air scoop, initally but I broke i anyway. Those type of pull clips suck.
#2. ditto
#3. ditto
#4. same deal with the fuel neck we did have to relocate the ground strap as it was too short, no biggy
#5. Go buy four 12mm nylon lock nuts for the rear bumper. They sent four 14mm nuts. Tottally missed this part and had to run to get nuts this AM
#6. Do the battery and air filter last! DONT even attept the fan shroud with the battery of air box in place.

We stopped by Lowes and grabbed some fender washers for the core support bolts, they worked awsome.

the oil cooler lines on the pan SUCK! the fan shroud spacer seems really cheezy.

print out copies of both the BDS and the PA instruction the both had steps that were hard to understand, The BDS page with the "real size" parts layout was a huge help.

in the end it was 11 hrs from the time I left my house to the time I returned with two trips to town, stopping for lunch an ddinner we had a little over 7.5 hours in the garage if we had to do another I think we could do it in under 6.

did anyone else have issues with the rear bumper brackets? I installed them as shown in the pictures and they didn't line up, maybe it was my aftermarket hitch but I had to fire up the plasma and cut slots in the PA brackets just so it would bolt up.

DeiselRed · Post by **DeiselRed** » Sun Jul 12, 2009 6:15 am

It took me and my buddy with air tools about 6 hours, everything done right as instructions show, untill we ran into a problem. my kit was missing 6 bolts, 12 washers, and 6 locknuts for the front bumper brackets. Had to run to tractor supply and and buy some...fabricated the bolts because they were 1/2 to long. then made it work. So at the end of the day it was about 8 hours. Overall it was not to bad though.

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Comments On PA-192 Body Lift

Comments On PA-192 Body Lift

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