Polyurethane front sway bar bushings

Post by **Walt** » Sat Jan 06, 2007 8:36 am

f9k9 wrote:
HenryJ wrote:............You can easily drill holes in the bolts yourself.
Smart Brule

Better?

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Jan 06, 2007 8:44 am

Walt wrote:Smart Brule...Better?

Perhaps. I am just glad he did not refer to me as the "A" word that was probably the correct choice

Post by **Walt** » Sat Jan 06, 2007 8:53 am

LonestarZ · Post by **LonestarZ** » Sat Jan 06, 2007 9:51 am

I have come to the conclusion some of you have entirely too much time on your hands.

Cajun · Post by **Cajun** » Mon Jan 08, 2007 12:12 pm

Well here it is and what a difference!

You guys with the body lifts must really notice a BIG difference!

Thanks for the help Guys!

Post by **Walt** » Mon Jan 08, 2007 12:25 pm

LonestarZ wrote:I have come to the conclusion some of you have entirely too much time on your hands.

Us? Never!

I have an infant and a toddler, and work full time. What is too much time?

ace · Post by **ace** » Thu Feb 01, 2007 7:44 pm

I have an 03 CC does anybody know what size front swaybar it has? Or where do I measure from to know the right size swaybar for the kit? I want to do this mod for sure.

Cajun · Post by **Cajun** » Fri Feb 02, 2007 4:02 am

killian96ss wrote:
GeorgesBlazah wrote:i looked on summit and it lists liek 3 diffrent sway bar sizes...how do i know which one is mine?
Do you have any calipers? If you don't have calipers, just take an adjustable wrench and open it enough to go over the sway bar, then tighten it and slide it off, and take your measurement. Do this in a couple of spots to get a good measurement.

Steve

This is the way I measured mine.

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Feb 02, 2007 4:05 am

The part # for the kit (sway bar bushings & end links) is 3.5207G. Summit, part # ENS-3-5207G

Probably 33mm for a crew cab. I assume yours is the same as the rest of the crew cabs? Measure the diameter of the bar. Near the bushing where it mounts to the frame is a good place. The outside diameter anywhere along the length should work as long as is it the maximum size it should be close.

Tony · Post by **Tony** » Thu May 24, 2007 9:24 am

My friend just left me a VM saying that the swaybar kit is on national backorder?

More to come once I talk to him.

Cajun · Post by **Cajun** » Thu May 24, 2007 9:34 am

I'd like to think we had something to do with that!

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Thu May 24, 2007 10:16 am

Tony wrote:My friend just left me a VM saying that the swaybar kit is on national backorder?

Summit has the kit in stock for $31.39.

If you order from them it helps to order some other stuff since they have a standard $10.95 handling fee.

You could order 100 items from them and still pay the same fee.

Steve

Tony · Post by **Tony** » Thu May 24, 2007 11:19 am

Well my buddy at NAPA is a Jeg's distributor. He called Jeg's and Energy Suspension both are out he said.

Summit could have them in stock, but who knows once you order them they could go to back order. Or it's left over stock and they haven't replenished lately.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Thu May 24, 2007 11:52 am

Tony wrote:Well my buddy at NAPA is a Jeg's distributor. He called Jeg's and Energy Suspension both are out he said.

Summit could have them in stock, but who knows once you order them they could go to back order. Or it's left over stock and they haven't replenished lately.

Jegs doesn't carry nearly as much inventory as Summit so it's no surprise they don't have the kits in stock.

Summit is usually pretty good at updating their web site on back ordered items, so if you really want this kit and don't want to wait a long time then order from Summit.

There is nothing wrong with left over stock, since the parts are the same wether they were made a year ago or yesterday.

Steve

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Thu May 24, 2007 11:59 am

I just checked with Summit and as of 5/24 they have 11 of these kits in stock (3 in Nevada & 8 in Georgia).

Steve

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Thu May 24, 2007 1:38 pm

killian96ss wrote:I just checked with Summit and as of 5/24 they have 11 of these kits in stock (3 in Nevada & 8 in Georgia).

Steve

I know Jeremy is having trouble getting black sets to build his quick disconnects. BTW, I'll plug his now. I think they are around $80 bucks, built by a perfectionist (to a fault) and I have been looking for some for my Jeep and they are around $150

Tony · Post by **Tony** » Thu May 24, 2007 10:02 pm

killian96ss wrote:I just checked with Summit and as of 5/24 they have 11 of these kits in stock (3 in Nevada & 8 in Georgia).

Steve

Thanks man!

You sold me! Its good to know Jeg's doesn't carry as much! I was going to get the NAPA ones and wait for these but I guess I'll order them!

Tony · Post by **Tony** » Thu May 24, 2007 10:03 pm

killian96ss wrote:
Tony wrote:Well my buddy at NAPA is a Jeg's distributor. He called Jeg's and Energy Suspension both are out he said.

Summit could have them in stock, but who knows once you order them they could go to back order. Or it's left over stock and they haven't replenished lately.

There is nothing wrong with left over stock, since the parts are the same wether they were made a year ago or yesterday.

Steve

This I know, and usually left over stock is cheaper!

EDIT: On second thought I need these soon and it seems paying for faster shipping I still get charged the $10.95 for handling. I think I'm going to wait and get the ADDCO bar.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Thu Jun 07, 2007 2:59 pm

Tony wrote: I think I'm going to wait and get the ADDCO bar.

Is there something better about the Addco bar?

Steve

Miles · Post by **Miles** » Fri Jun 08, 2007 6:16 am

Did someone delete my post from yesterday in this thread?

Or am I going crazy?

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Fri Jun 08, 2007 9:26 am

Muslhed wrote:Did someone delete my post from yesterday in this thread? Or am I going crazy?

your not

I think a someone deleted it maybe to clean things up.

This post will probably be deleted as well.

Steve

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Jun 08, 2007 3:03 pm

You are both going crazy!
I did clean up the thread and split the topic.
I am also guessing that you are both right in that these to , shall disappear from this thread

24digger · Post by **24digger** » Sat Dec 29, 2007 5:24 pm

I have a question about installing poly bushing.

Just wandering how much it would effect the driveability if one side is tighter than the other?

I have recently install these on my crew and our silhouette van and it seems like steering wheel is turned a little and it maybe pulling some since installed.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Dec 29, 2007 8:51 pm

That shouldn't be the case. Just make sure you are on level ground when you snug them up. Eyeball the threads showing and try to make them the same. I disco my CC and Heep all the time and haven't seen a problem that you describe.

24digger · Post by **24digger** » Sun Dec 30, 2007 5:50 am

I was on level ground and I did guesstamate thread length, I guess its just me

Torskdoc · Post by **Torskdoc** » Mon Dec 31, 2007 12:02 am

It could be that the new stiffer bushings are accentuating a sloppiness that wasn't noticible with the old sloppy bushings.

Larry

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Tue Apr 08, 2008 3:31 am

I replaced my swaybar bushings 4k miles back with Moog polys. While lubing my frontend yesterday I noticed both bushings on the lower side of the endlink A-arm bracket were split and hanging out. I can't see them doing any good like that. I'm trying to come up with a reason this has happened. I've done no wheelin', I tightened them fully when installed.

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Apr 08, 2008 4:22 am

I had lots of trouble with the MOOG parts. Specifically the bushings for the radius arms on Ford trucks. Same thing as you are describing, they split. Once I went back to OEM Parts the problems stopped.

Is there a warranty, or refund policy for your MOOG sway bar bushings? I would try replacements under warranty, once. If they fail again, buy a different brand, or go back to stock.

The Energy Suspension bushings have been doing a good job.

roadrunner · Post by **roadrunner** » Tue Apr 08, 2008 12:25 pm

I had the same experience with a set of "Help" poly sway bar link bushings.

I think they just needed to emphasize that name to HELP!

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Wed Apr 09, 2008 4:16 am

YES ! The MOOG endlinks were warrantied. Got new replacements and noticed while removing the split versions, the link bolts didn't appear 90 to the mounting surfaces on the A-arm or the sway bar. Made me consider the help I got with the original change from stock bushings.My Hotrod enthusiast neighbor is a little to quick with his impact wrench. I think he tightened the bolts out of line and crimped the bushings. I may have been a little to excited about test the new control and didn't really look close enough myself. Anyway I insalled the new links straight and true then went out and did all I could think to distort them,and they held perfectly. :speedy:

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Apr 09, 2008 4:26 am

Horsehammerr wrote:The MOOG endlinks were warrantied. Got new replacements...

Let us know how this works out.
I am betting you will be in the same situation soon.

As the bar twists the surfaces will never be completely parallel. That is to be expected. They should tighten up. The bolt will limit the tension. I do not think your installation was the problem, although I could be wrong. Give these the same amount of time you had the last set and let us know how they are doing.

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Wed Apr 09, 2008 5:51 am

Thanks Brule. You said you have Energysuspension bushings. Do you have a shot of yours with these bushings on ? Would like to compare the stance of the endlinks to mine.

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Apr 09, 2008 6:03 pm

Horsehammerr wrote:...Do you have a shot of yours with these bushings on ?

Front sway bar quick disconnect

Miles · Post by **Miles** » Wed Apr 09, 2008 6:49 pm

More pics of the Energy Suspension bushings here .Click on the albums on the left.

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Thu Apr 10, 2008 3:52 am

Thanks for the photo reviews. My endlinks were not true perpindicular to the A-arm bracket as I see they should have been. They are now and I have done every manuver I can imagine to upset them. They stay true and actualy seem to work better than before. We shall see and I hope to remember to update this fix after about 5k. I'm not really into the Wheelin' aspect of four wheel drive, I just hated having to call a friend everytime I get stuck. In my construction business that happened a lot, NOT since I got my CC !!! The little sucker just blasts right on through. OUT OF MY WAY !!!

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Mon Apr 14, 2008 7:57 am

Can the end link bushings be over tightened ? My bushings on the under side of the A-arm brackets look completely crushed already, barely 300 miles. Is it just MOOG bushings or are they just over tight ? I bottomed out the nut on the bolt. To much??

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Apr 14, 2008 8:49 am

Factory calls for the link bolt to be tightened to 11 ft lbs.

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Sat Apr 26, 2008 7:43 am

The Moog End Links with urethane bushings that I replaced 2 wks ago have been replaced with Energy Suspension bushings. The dang moog bushings colapsed and split again. The E.S. bushings did say to snug up to just slight bulging, DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN ! Seems the End Link bushings can be over tightened after all. I think thats what happened to the moog bushings, as I did tighten them till the nut bottomed out on the threads then torqued to 11 ft lbs. OOPS ! Well they were not going to come loose. So much for extra tight.

I like the black bushings better anyway.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Sun Jul 04, 2010 7:53 pm

Of course im the odd ball. I apperantly have a 35mm sway bar, compared to every one else's 33mm. I measured with my digital calipers a few times, and its definantly 35mm.

I cant seem to find that set in 35mm? I can find the sway bar bushings in 35mm,, but then i cant find just the end bushing kit (the 8 bushings, bolt, etc etc) if i have to order them seperatly. Some one care to see what they can find? Im kinda lost here...

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Sun Jul 04, 2010 8:51 pm

Thinking smarter. I can order the 35mm greasable bushing no problem.

It's finding the right sized sway bar end set up. Energy sells em with spacers, and I measured the spacing on the stock spacer as .860". Smallest energy sells is 1". Then I recalled roadrunner said that center stock bushing can be reused. So, as long as I get the 8 bushings and washers, if I use the stock center bushing/spacer it should be just as good as the kit?

I'm sure it'll be a few bucks more that way but 33 won't fit 35, lol.

After I get that set up, I'll work on the disconnect bolt. Looks easy except for that tab at the bolt head... Seems like having a crescent wrench would work just as well with the wing nut? Brule all your old pictures are gone, do you have any handy somewhere online?
Being nut?

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Jul 04, 2010 11:09 pm

I hope you have not ordered yet.

You do need the kit everyone else here has ordered. The 33mm set is what you need. It is true that they bar does measure closer to 35mm at the bends and even a little over 34mm in the straight places you can get to installed. You are just going to have to trust us that the part numbers listed are what you need. 35mm will be sloppy and you want a tight press fit.

To the best of my knowledge there were only three sway bars offered for the s-series. Ours is the largest. There was no larger bar offered.

A friend with a welder can weld a rod to the top of the bolt so you have something to grasp. The idea is a tool free method of discoing the bar.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Mon Jul 05, 2010 8:02 am

No I haven't ordered. That sounds bettter to me. I just wanted to be sure I had the corect size.

Summit has the picture of the greasable sway bar bushing on the page, but the specs say it isnt greasable? I wonder if that has changed... I bet a non-greasable would be hard to rotate when discoing.... And did you have to drill a hole in your skid plate to put the greease gun on the fitting? Or a hole in general for it to clear the skid plate?

I have a buddy at work who welds, I know he would do it no problem. Just have to pick up some round stock for him and the bolts.

So, a 5" 3/8 grade 8 bolt is needed. I see the tpi was left out, im sure a machine thread wil be the one. Ill pick a few of those up today, some wing nuts, cotter pins, and order the kit. Probably some round stock from lowes too, probably be smart to call that buddy first.... lol.

I think I might do the throttle blade mod today

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Jul 05, 2010 8:30 am

fallvitals wrote:... did you have to drill a hole in your skid plate to put the greease gun on the fitting? Or a hole in general for it to clear the skid plate?

nope. It clears the shield.

...Ill pick a few of those up today, some wing nuts, cotter pins, and order the kit.

Make those hitch pins or hair pins. Cotter pins would be a pain. Homedepot has all you need, as would any hardware store.

Miles bent flat stock over the end to keep it from rotating. I made a large wing bolt out of it. A tee on the end would work too. Be creative

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Mon Jul 05, 2010 5:20 pm

Hm, looks good. Maybe its the angle but the bottom of your bolt just looks like a tear drop shape to me? Either way I know what your saying. Ill have to talk to my buddy at work about welding it for me.

Has your wingnut backed off at all on you yet? I know the pin there is to retain it, but in my experiances it doesnt take wingnuts long to work loose in applications that have a decent ammount of vibration.

One thing, I dont see how you can grease the sway bar bushing fitting without removing the skid... did ya put a 90o zerk on it?

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Jul 05, 2010 5:54 pm

fallvitals wrote:Hm, looks good. Maybe its the angle but the bottom of your bolt just looks like a tear drop shape to me?

It must be the angle of the shot. It us a twisted flat that resembles a bowtie or wing. It gives me more leverage when tightening.

..Has your wingnut backed off at all on you yet?

No. It can not. The pin retains it.

I dont see how you can grease the sway bar bushing fitting without removing the skid... did ya put a 90o zerk on it?

Nope. Straight. You will see it clears my aluminum shield just right.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Sat Jul 10, 2010 7:43 pm

Did this install today. Discovered one of the sway bar bushings didnt have a slit on its side. And was too tight to slide over the sway bar.... im sure thats not normal? I took a skill saw and cut it.

Then spent half an hour trying to get the end bushings on, and it seemed the sway bar was bent. Then I realized i wasnt on perfectly flat ground! lol.

Then went to my buddys house, we ran to lowes got some bolts, wing nuts, etc. And he gave me my first welding lesson, i welded 1 1/2 of my bolts. Made a Tee out of em, looks like a good strong weld, i practiced laying down some weld on old pipe he said after my first few trys I was doing pretty good. So I might have to go buy a welder now

lol.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Sun Jul 11, 2010 5:28 pm

http://photos.imageevent.com/rc_racer_0 ... disco1.jpg

stupid thing is 40 pixels too tall, im not photoshoppping it, lol.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Jul 11, 2010 5:38 pm

Looks good. Might need to be a little tighter? I see bolt under that upper bushing.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Sun Jul 11, 2010 5:44 pm

Probably. I didn't want o tighten it too much per warnings here of 10 foot pounds. But even when I cranked it down I don't recall that top bushing covering the bolt? How much do you crank yours brule?

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Jul 11, 2010 5:57 pm

As much as I can by hand. Good and tight with a six inch wrench is nine foot pounds. I have less than an inch leverage with my wing bolt. I doubt I'll ever get ten foot pounds even if I try hard.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Sun Jul 11, 2010 6:15 pm

Wow,,, thats way more then I thought... ill go tighten em up now....

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Sat Aug 14, 2010 2:48 pm

I went to tractor supply to get two clevises to go around the bar. I'm not sure what size I need? From what I'm seeing the size depends on the screw pin. The biggest they had didn't seem big enough, after leaving I think it was.... (they were 1/2"). The ones I got from lowes are 3/8, just a smidgen small. I think 1/2 is what I need...

I got some round connector pieces to use till I can get the right clevises.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Aug 14, 2010 3:21 pm

What's the clevis for?

Mine are held up by the front tow hooks and the rubber "crutch caps"

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Sat Aug 14, 2010 3:50 pm

This is what I'm imitating.

I see where your going but unsure what crutch caps are. I they are literally the caps on the bottom of a cane/crutch I'm not sure how that would work to secure it forward on the tow hook?

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Aug 14, 2010 4:54 pm

A bit more reading for you: Swaybar disconnect

HenryJ wrote:For holding the sway bar up while disconnected. Those first gen tow hooks work great! The bar swings up just clearing them. All that was needed is to slip a cap over the tips and the sway bar can not swing down! I slipped a couple 1" long pieces of heater hose over the ends as a trial. With both of them on there the bar will not pass. I stopped by the hardware store this evening and picked up a nice pair of 7/8" black rubber end caps. They look something like a furniture foot cap or crutch end cap. They do look much better. I'll probably throw the heater hose pieces in the tool box just in case.

Works great and is simple.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Sat Aug 14, 2010 5:25 pm

Nice. I saw that thread but must have skipped over that. Or probably had my mind set to the clevis method... I'll use the clevis/ring method for tomorrow then look for those stoppers.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Aug 14, 2010 5:51 pm

Keep in mind that Jeremy's Blazer has a high wider package (ZR2) the brackets may be in a different location , or line up a little differently. The ZR2 frame rails are narrower at the front to accommodate the larger tires.

I started to follow that path too, but switched directions ad used the caps instead.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Sat Aug 14, 2010 7:07 pm

Well I haven't tried out my securing system yet for the sway bar, tomorrow will be the test run. Guess I'll take some rope incase to secure it in place if it doesn't line up for the reasons you just gave.

dozer1530 · Post by **dozer1530** » Sun Aug 15, 2010 12:01 am

here is mine i did them last week

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Aug 21, 2010 5:49 pm

Well, initial impressions? I thought those bushings were right up there very close to the HD Bilstein upgrade in the handling department.

dozer1530 · Post by **dozer1530** » Sat Aug 21, 2010 6:58 pm

what you mean

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Sat Aug 21, 2010 8:38 pm

Well, I am good at noticing subtle differences but I never noticed the night/day differance in my bilstiens. With these I noticed a nice differance, not overly dramatic though. Or maybe I'm not as sensitive to those changes?

I have been lazy and haven't reconnected my sway bar, iv ran with it connected for a week. Lots of roll, but not as bad as I thought either. Still worth it if yours need replaced.

Running with the discoed sway bar offroad is a big differance. It really eases out the ride.

S-10CREWCAB.NET

Polyurethane front sway bar bushings

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Re: Polyurethane front sway bar bushings

Re: Polyurethane front sway bar bushings

Re: Polyurethane front sway bar bushings

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Re: Polyurethane front sway bar bushings

Re: Polyurethane front sway bar bushings

Re: Polyurethane front sway bar bushings

Re: Polyurethane front sway bar bushings

Re: Polyurethane front sway bar bushings

Re: Polyurethane front sway bar bushings

Re: Polyurethane front sway bar bushings

Re: Polyurethane front sway bar bushings

Re: Polyurethane front sway bar bushings

Re: Polyurethane front sway bar bushings

Re: Polyurethane front sway bar bushings

Re: Polyurethane front sway bar bushings

Re: Polyurethane front sway bar bushings

Re: Polyurethane front sway bar bushings

Re: Polyurethane front sway bar bushings

Re: Polyurethane front sway bar bushings

Re: Polyurethane front sway bar bushings

Re: Polyurethane front sway bar bushings

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