Body Lift Problem - Help needed

cjairbrush · Post by **cjairbrush** » Fri Oct 12, 2007 10:20 am

I am putting in the PA192. I am up to the point of jacking up the cab by placing the jack under the rockers. The frame is lifing up along with the cab. I removed the eight body bolts as specified in the instructions.

I decided to move on to the bed, and I was able to lift that with no problems. I have the blocks installed in the bed, and the bolts loosely screwed in. I went back to jacking up the cab, but the problem still exists.

It seems like something is still screwed in near the rear of the cab, because I can get some space in the first few mounts where the blocks go. When I place the jack near the back of the cab, I am not getting space to install that back block, even though the bolt is out.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I am going to continue looking to see if I can tell what is holding it up.

I would think the frame should not lift at all when lifting the cab. Am I correct?

Thanks

Chris

cjairbrush · Post by **cjairbrush** » Fri Oct 12, 2007 12:55 pm

I figured out my problem. My wood blocks on top of the jack were catching on the step rails. Very stupid of me. The blocks are all in, but not tight yet.

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Oct 12, 2007 2:22 pm

Sure glad you figured it out. Looks like everyone including myself was at a loss for advice.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Fri Oct 12, 2007 3:34 pm

I failed to check his thread. Usually BLs are done on weekends. PM for ph numbers if, you think a member may help you in a similar situation.

cjairbrush · Post by **cjairbrush** » Fri Oct 12, 2007 5:07 pm

Thanks guys. I stopped earlier this evening with all the blocks in, but two of the bolts don't want to thread. I'll start back up in the morning. I made the mistake of buying a hydrolic jack that only extends to 13 inches. I had to use multiple 2 x 4's to get the necessary height. I removed the ground strap from the filler tube, and left it dangling from the frame. Can I just screw the other end of that ground strap to the underside of the bed? As far as I can tell, there are no other problems thus far. It is just taking me time. I am working on it alone, without the best equipment, and not much experience. I am amazed at how much better it looks up higher. I was skeptical about two inches making a difference, but it really does.

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Oct 12, 2007 5:22 pm

You are going to be very happy with the look, other than the tiny tires and narrow rear. You will probably be tough to be around for a few days with the big head you will have after this accomplishment

The ground strap from the filler neck needs to go to a good ground. the frame is one for sure. See if you can find a way to remount it to the frame if possible.

cjairbrush · Post by **cjairbrush** » Sat Oct 13, 2007 3:28 pm

I took the ground off the filler neck, and left the end that was already attached to the frame alone. If I mount the ground that was on the filler neck onto the frame, I would have a frame to frame ground. I am thinking that a ground from the bed to the frame would be better. Am I thinking straight?

I am almost done. I still have to put the rear bumper brackets on to raise the back bumper.

I really had to stretch the positive battery cable to connect it. I am going to lower the battery tray to hopefully give it some slack.

Everything is working. All lights, turn signals, radio, etc... It started right up. I stalled once at the end of my test drive when I pulled into the driveway. I turned the steering wheel all the way to the right, and stalled out as I was pulling in. I started it back up with no problems, and took another short spin and it was OK. I opened the trunk and discovered that I did not reconnect the two electric cables to the air intake tube. I am hoping my stalling problem is solved by giving the battery cable some slack, and plugging in those two cables. Please let me know if you can think of anything else to check.

It took longer than I expected. But I had little problems here and there. I have about 20 hours into it, with small adjustments and the back bumper to go. I am happier with it than I expected to be.

I would never have attempted this without all of the information on this site. And it would have taken even longer, because this site helped me solve situations, like the side bumper brackets.

Thanks!

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Oct 13, 2007 3:45 pm

Make sure you do have a ground strap attached to the filler neck. That is to safely discharge static electricity. Do the best you can.
I don't think lowering the battery tray is an option. Look for ways to relieve the cable. Cut some ties loose. Take it out of a retainer. Route it more directly. What ever it takes.

cjairbrush · Post by **cjairbrush** » Sun Oct 14, 2007 1:38 am

OK. Thanks again.

cjairbrush · Post by **cjairbrush** » Mon Oct 15, 2007 7:11 am

In case it helps anyone else, I picked up a battery cable splice at Autozone to give my battery cable slack. The splice includes the same connector as the stock battery cable, with three cables attached that are ready to splice with the stock cables. I disconnected the battery, cut off the stock cables as close to the connector as I could, and then spliced in the new connector. It worked great, and the car has not yet stalled after driving 40 miles in combination city and highway driving.