PA192 body lift questions

[cjairbrush]

I am tentatively planning to attempt the PA 192 bodylift myself next weekend. I have a 03 ZR5 crew. I do not have a hitch, and I do not go off-roading. I have read a lot of the posts on this site. Thank you to all that have shared their experiences. This is the first step towards a magical mystery lift. I still have a couple of questions.

I have a 5 foot pit on my garage that was made for doing oil changes, etc… Do I need to put the truck on jack stands? I would have to check and see if I could straddle that pit, and still safely fit the jack on both sides to lift the body. Are there any reasons to remove the wheels?

I am thinking about doing the bed first, before starting the cab. That way if it seems like I am getting over my head, I will not be too far into the job. Is there any reason that this would not work? My biggest concern is rusted bolts and not being able to disassemble something.

My wife does not want me to do the work when I am home alone. Any opinions on whether she is right that it would be wise to ensure she is home when I do this work? (She either cares about me, or wants to be there to see me get squished.)

I need to buy a jack. Should I get both a bottle jack, and a good hydraulic jack? What height of a jack should I get?

I have a breaker bar. (I will get the 10” socket extension.) I have a good compressor (for painting), but no air tools. Would buying the air tools help prevent me from stripping nuts and bolts, or will it just make the job go faster? What air tools are recommended?

I am moderately handy, but not much experience with mechanics. I airbrush cars and trucks as a hobby. I plan to paint this crew next spring. My website is www.cjairbrush.com.

I have read about not relocating the actuator, not relocating the positive cable terminal box, not cutting the fuel filler line, and putting in the battery and air filter last. Is there any thing else I am missing?

Thanks!

Chris

[HenryJ]

Do I need to put the truck on jack stands? Are there any reasons to remove the wheels?

I don't think you have to as long as you are small enough to crawl around under it without lifting it. There is not much room under the stock truck. I would want it up on stands to allow easy access under the truck. Over a pit you may have all the room you need.
Taking the front wheels off make some of the bumper brackets easier to do. Again , in a pit you may not have any problems.
It is hard to say for sure. I think it is doable though.

I am thinking about doing the bed first, before starting the cab. That way if it seems like I am getting over my head, I will not be too far into the job. Is there any reason that this would not work?

I would follow the directions and do the cab first. It is about as easy as the bed and if you have problems you will know before you are in too deep. How about loosening all the bolts first. That way you will know if there is going to be a stubborn one, or potential problems.

My wife does not want me to do the work when I am home alone. Any opinions on whether she is right that it would be wise to ensure she is home when I do this work?

An extra pair of hands , or eyes is always an advantage.
I work alone quite a bit and in way more risky situations than this. I think you will be fine alone. Just make sure someone calls you for dinner.

I need to buy a jack. Should I get both a bottle jack, and a good hydraulic jack? What height of a jack should I get?

In this end of the world those are synonymous. You don't need a big jack. Use blocking to put it in the range you need. Buy one that will lift half the trucks weight so it is useful afterward. I doubt it will have to lift more than a few hundred pounds to do the lift.

Would buying the air tools help prevent me from stripping nuts and bolts, or will it just make the job go faster? What air tools are recommended?

Air tools may aid in removal with the impact that it gives. It may also aid in stripping them out as it is difficult to judge when things are going bad. I would not buy air tools just for this job. They are handy, but if you are in no hurry , they are merely a convenience not a requirement. For some of the bolts it just isn't possible to use an air tool.

Is there any thing else I am missing?

Sounds like you have read the experiences of others here. Don't lift it more than it needs to be lifted. Raise the side the instructions recommend first so you don't stress the wiring. Patience? It is not a race. I took twelve hours including a tire change and building gap guards. Take your time. Schedule a whole weekend and have fun. Be sure to fill us all in on what works and what doesn't when you're done.

Looks like you need some more airbrush practice. You can flame my truck anytime you're ready

Fixed your 3rd quote. You're slipping. -W

[cjairbrush]

Thanks for all of the advice! I appreciate it. I'll share my experience and post pics when I am done.

[F9K9]

If, you get frustrated, take a break and post up here with your question. Someone should post up fairly quickly. Something that should be advised since, these rigs are a couple of years older.. Hit all the bolts and nuts daily for a week before a mod with a good penetrating oil. This is a most with heeps but, I noticed problems with Top_Sgt's BL and his rear bumper bolts. Most Heepers prefer PB Blaster but, Sea Foam Deep Creep seems to work better in my opinion.

[cjairbrush]

OK - I'll start that process tomorrow. That is probably real good advice, especially since I am up North in the rust belt.