I have tire rub with 30" tires

ace · Post by **ace** » Mon Aug 14, 2006 9:30 am

Well I thought i escaped the infamous tire rub going with 30" tires but I didn't. My 31 x 10.50's have a 30" diameter. I have a little rub on the frame at full lock which doesn't bother me but I am hitting right behind the driver's side fender when I make a slight left turn and go up an incline or bump. My height from the ground to the front fender is 34.5" with a 2" bodylift. Did I not crank the t-bars enough? Like a dumb a## I didn't take a before measurement. We had the truck on a lift and we cranked them 3 times and then I thought dang I didn't take a before measurment. I know a lot of you guys have used the BFH to take care of that little lip on the fenderwell but I want to make sure the tbars are cranked enough before doing this. Also how can I expect to go wheeling with it hitting the fender on regular on road obstacles even if I fix that little lip? Feeling frustrated

gairbear · Post by **gairbear** » Mon Aug 14, 2006 9:43 am

are you running stock rims...with stock backspacing I mean

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Mon Aug 14, 2006 12:56 pm

A little work with a BFH will cure it but, then you will have a place to catch and hold mud leading to corrosion. I cut mine off with a dremel tool and used a little undercoating to cover bare metal. It just requires removal of a little of the corner that folds under.

ace · Post by **ace** » Mon Aug 14, 2006 1:21 pm

gairbear wrote:are you running stock rims...with stock backspacing I mean

I do have the stock zr5 rims without any spacers upfront either.

ace · Post by **ace** » Mon Aug 14, 2006 1:22 pm

f9k9 wrote:A little work with a BFH will cure it but, then you will have a place to catch and hold mud leading to corrosion. I cut mine off with a dremel tool and used a little undercoating to cover bare metal. It just requires removal of a little of the corner that folds under.

I thought that would be a good idea but wondered if it would cut the tire if it did rub. So yours never makes contact with that area?

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Mon Aug 14, 2006 2:10 pm

I had a rub there and no damage to the tire resulted from the cutting. I did not have a stock rim when it ocurred but, 4.5" back spacied one. If, your's is with the stock wheel then minor cutting should cure it but, if a driveway is causing the problem then offroading will amplifiy the problem.

I think HenryJ can give you a better answer in terms to help you understand.

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Aug 14, 2006 2:27 pm

Trimming / Modifying front fender lip , Cut'n bang'n out rear of front fender for tire rubbagage

The squared shoulder of those Mickeys may not be helping you.

How are your shocks?

ace · Post by **ace** » Mon Aug 14, 2006 2:35 pm

thanks guys, so I guess it's conclusive that if your going with 31" x 10.50 tires then your going to need to do some minor cutting on your fender. So be it.

ace · Post by **ace** » Mon Aug 14, 2006 2:42 pm

HenryJ wrote:Trimming / Modifying front fender lip , Cut'n bang'n out rear of front fender for tire rubbagage

The squared shoulder of those Mickeys may not be helping you.

Hows your shocks?

Hi HJ, I PM'd you about this already and my shocks are still the stock shocks.
I know I need new shocks but the inclines I'm hitting are so minor that I began to wonder and searching for where the tire was rubbing and it is right on the corner of the fender. You mentioned new shocks would help but I can see I have to cut that corner to really cure the problem. The mickey's do have a squared shoulder and your right it's probably not helping. I was going to bang it up that corner but cutting seems to be the answer. Well the real answer is to get skidz flares but then I'll want 33's, and a 6 inch lift, new gearing, etc. etc... you get the point.

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Aug 14, 2006 3:01 pm

Sorry, I may have forgotten about your PM. I tend to field quite a few of those when the information can better be answered in a group setting.

Shocks will help. The urethane suspension bushings might help as well? Maybe experimenting with tire pressures?

Trimming that corner seems to be inevitable though. It is not a hack job that will be needed. More of a minor trim and a good excuse to invest in a reciprocal saw

It has been so long since I have had that combination, I am a little foggy on exactly the combination that work the best. I think you are about there though. Small 31's, minor trim, stock rearspacing, good shocks, t-bar tweak.

Good Luck.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Mon Aug 14, 2006 3:36 pm

HenryJ wrote:.......Trimming that corner seems to be inevitable though. It is not a hack job that will be needed. More of a minor trim and a good excuse to invest in a reciprocal saw It has been so long since I have had that combination, I am a little foggy on exactly the combination that work the best. I think you are about there though. Small 31's, minor trim, stock rearspacing, good shocks, t-bar tweak............

Brule's correct but, power tools can get expensive. What do you have in the way of power tools? I think he has had a world of tools for so long (or access to them) that he may think everyone has been through his journeys.

I worked in a Sears Auto Center in school and thought I had a good collection but, I am constantly discovering I am lacking a socket or other tool. I had that reinforced yesterday

A reciprocal saw is great if you have access to one. With the trimming you require I tried to borrow one and when I asked a coworker, who has a HVAC business on the side, if he had one, he asked what for. After I showed him he recommended a dremel tool which is easier to justify. It can be used to polish the little lady's jewelry or whatever.

The dremel worked fine for me but, I had to eventually get the saw for the Skidz flares and other work. I suppose if, you had the patience that a metal file would work just as well.

ace · Post by **ace** » Mon Aug 14, 2006 4:57 pm

f9k9 wrote:
HenryJ wrote:.......Trimming that corner seems to be inevitable though. It is not a hack job that will be needed. More of a minor trim and a good excuse to invest in a reciprocal saw It has been so long since I have had that combination, I am a little foggy on exactly the combination that work the best. I think you are about there though. Small 31's, minor trim, stock rearspacing, good shocks, t-bar tweak............

Brule's correct but, power tools can get expensive. What do you have in the way of power tools? I think he has had a world of tools for so long (or access to them) that he may think everyone has been through his journeys.

I worked in a Sears Auto Center in school and thought I had a good collection but, I am constantly discovering I am lacking a socket or other tool. I had that reinforced yesterday

A reciprocal saw is great if you have access to one. With the trimming you require I tried to borrow one and when I asked a coworker, who has a HVAC business on the side, if he had one, he asked what for. After I showed him he recommended a dremel tool which is easier to justify. It can be used to polish the little lady's jewelry or whatever.

The dremel worked fine for me but, I had to eventually get the saw for the Skidz flares and other work. I suppose if, you had the patience that a metal file would work just as well.

My power tools are limited to mainly woodworking. I don't have a reciprocating saw though. I think I have to go hit up my relative that works at a gm dealer for some assistance again. He mentioned some wheel cutter that he loves to use and I have the perfect fender he can cut with it.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Mon Aug 14, 2006 5:06 pm

Sounds like you are sitting in good shape. Have fun

Post by **Walt** » Mon Aug 14, 2006 5:46 pm

ace wrote:thanks guys, so I guess it's conclusive that if your going with 31" x 10.50 tires then your going to need to do some minor cutting on your fender. So be it.

I ran 31x10.5x15 BFG ATKO's on stock wheels and never once rubbed (2" BL, TB Crank) until I changed wheels, but then I got Skidz cutout flares.

ace · Post by **ace** » Tue Aug 15, 2006 5:03 am

Walt wrote:
ace wrote:thanks guys, so I guess it's conclusive that if your going with 31" x 10.50 tires then your going to need to do some minor cutting on your fender. So be it.
I ran 31x10.5x15 BFG ATKO's on stock wheels and never once rubbed (2" BL, TB Crank) until I changed wheels, but then I got Skidz cutout flares.

I decided a picture would be a good idea here so I'm going to take one tonight. It's really close to the edge of that fender.

Jigg · Post by **Jigg** » Tue Aug 15, 2006 5:44 am

I still don't understand what makes one truck rub like that when another of similar setup doesn't. I had a 97 Non-Zr2 blazer with no body lift or t-bar crank, and 31's didn't rub unless i was wheeling it hard (i tried a couple different sets too). My brother's 97 4dr fit 31's with no lift as well.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Tue Aug 15, 2006 6:51 am

Jigg wrote:I still don't understand what makes one truck rub like that when another of similar setup doesn't. I had a 97 Non-Zr2 blazer with no body lift or t-bar crank, and 31's didn't rub unless i was wheeling it hard (i tried a couple different sets too). My brother's 97 4dr fit 31's with no lift as well.

I came across a TSB awhile back and it was for a ZR2 rubbing issue with stock wheels and tires. The fix was to move the cab rearward. I'll try to locate it again.

Jigg · Post by **Jigg** » Tue Aug 15, 2006 9:19 am

A lot of the stock ZR2 pickups rub the sway bar at full lock.

I wonder how far i could pull the body of my truck back... even .5" would help center the tires in the wheel well

ace · Post by **ace** » Tue Aug 15, 2006 9:21 am

I borrowed an air powered spinning wheel cutter or as my relative called it "The spinning wheel of death". That corner is coming off.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Tue Aug 15, 2006 9:34 am

I have the 2" BL and only a 3/4" t-bar crank and the only place I rub is on the frame and a little bit on the sway bar. Even when fully flexed and turning I still have about 1/2" of clearance from the fender well. I did remove about 1/2" of metal from the rear corner everyone is talking about with some sheet metal shears. I did this just to be safe since it wasn't actually making contact.

It really sounds like GM was a bit sloppy with the cab to frame mounting on the assembly lines.

Steve

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Tue Aug 15, 2006 11:27 am

I have been all over my SI program that is current as of Jan, 2005 and cannot locate it. I know full well I read it! I had an older program and it could have been in it. I'll keep trying on and off, though.

ace · Post by **ace** » Tue Aug 15, 2006 1:32 pm

killian96ss wrote:I have the 2" BL and only a 3/4" t-bar crank and the only place I rub is on the frame and a little bit on the sway bar. Even when fully flexed and turning I still have about 1/2" of clearance from the fender well. I did remove about 1/2" of metal from the rear corner everyone is talking about with some sheet metal shears. I did this just to be safe since it wasn't actually making contact. It really sounds like GM was a bit sloppy with the cab to frame mounting on the assembly lines.

Steve

I have about a 1/2 inch clearance as well but when you have the wheel slightly turned and hit a incline or a bump it rubs there. The additional variables might be shocks, different makes of tires, squared lug tires, and now the cab to frame mounting. It's going to be interesting if I knock off that corner to see if it rubs.

Steve can you do me a favor and see what your ground to front fender height is? I'm curious if i'm on the low side. Mine is 34.5.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Tue Aug 15, 2006 2:04 pm

ace wrote:.................and now the cab to frame mounting. It's going to be interesting if I knock off that corner to see if it rubs. ...............

This is really bothering me to not to be able to locate what I read

I have conservatively searched for over three hours today

There is play built into the mounts or else the aligning of the bed to the cab during a body lift install would not even be mentioned in the install directions of BDS and the PA BL lift kits. I do recall that an increment of 1/4" was mentioned in what I read. Wether it is 1/4, 1/2 or 3/4 inch I am unsure of. I would think that 3/4" would have stuck out in my mind and am relatively sure that it was 1/2" and under.

ace · Post by **ace** » Tue Aug 15, 2006 4:09 pm

Well here's some pictures of what we are talking about with the wheel turned. The last shot is with the wheel straight.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Tue Aug 15, 2006 4:13 pm

Really cannot tell from those small images, sorry.

ace · Post by **ace** » Tue Aug 15, 2006 4:16 pm

f9k9 wrote:
ace wrote:.................and now the cab to frame mounting. It's going to be interesting if I knock off that corner to see if it rubs. ...............

This is really bothering me to not to be able to locate what I read

I have conservatively searched for over three hours today There is play built into the mounts or else the aligning of the bed to the cab during a body lift install would not even be mentioned in the install directions of BDS and the PA BL lift kits. I do recall that an increment of 1/4" was mentioned in what I read. Wether it is 1/4, 1/2 or 3/4 inch I am unsure of. I would think that 3/4" would have stuck out in my mind and am relatively sure that it was 1/2" and under.

I do remember in the instructions about aligning the bed but with a little bit of play but I don't think it said anything about the cab. I could be wrong though. That is why the instructions have you measure the distance before beginning the disassembly process. You do have to measure the distance from the front bumper to the fender which is part of the cab in a sense but I don't think that's what you have read. Hope you find it.

ace · Post by **ace** » Tue Aug 15, 2006 4:17 pm

f9k9 wrote:Really cannot tell from those small images, sorry.

Fixed them.

gairbear · Post by **gairbear** » Tue Aug 15, 2006 5:07 pm

Looks to me like a bit of cutting is in order....an inch or 2 should do it.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Tue Aug 15, 2006 5:18 pm

ace wrote:
f9k9 wrote:
ace wrote:.................and now the cab to frame mounting. It's going to be interesting if I knock off that corner to see if it rubs. ...............

This is really bothering me to not to be able to locate what I read

I have conservatively searched for over three hours today There is play built into the mounts or else the aligning of the bed to the cab during a body lift install would not even be mentioned in the install directions of BDS and the PA BL lift kits. I do recall that an increment of 1/4" was mentioned in what I read. Wether it is 1/4, 1/2 or 3/4 inch I am unsure of. I would think that 3/4" would have stuck out in my mind and am relatively sure that it was 1/2" and under.

I do remember in the instructions about aligning the bed but with a little bit of play but I don't think it said anything about the cab. I could be wrong though. That is why the instructions have you measure the distance before beginning the disassembly process. You do have to measure the distance from the front bumper to the fender which is part of the cab in a sense but I don't think that's what you have read. Hope you find it.

My point was that if the bed mounts have a little bit of "play" in them that the cab "mounts "should have some have some built in as well.

I really wish I could relocate where I read the ZR2 rubbing issue "fix" at but, I will in time.

Yes, your cut is relatively straight forward! Mine only required the cutting of the lip that rolls under towards the frame. Brule had a good pic of it but, I am unable to locate it now. Your photo is good and really emphasis where you should cut.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Tue Aug 15, 2006 5:30 pm

Cutting on that line should be more than enough to clear up the problem. Pardon my typo

gairbear · Post by **gairbear** » Tue Aug 15, 2006 5:34 pm

wow...really .....Just that little bit??

gairbear · Post by **gairbear** » Tue Aug 15, 2006 5:36 pm

oh yeah...you're running stock rims...right

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Tue Aug 15, 2006 5:40 pm

gairbear wrote:wow...really .....Just that little bit??

For angled driveways.........yes. Offroad from what you described is another story. All rigs are different.

ace · Post by **ace** » Tue Aug 15, 2006 6:11 pm

I think I will start with the cutting just that lip before going to the outside. I'll see how it is and then cut more later If I need too.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Tue Aug 15, 2006 6:59 pm

ace wrote:I think I will start with the cutting just that lip before going to the outside. I'll see how it is and then cut more later If I need too.

Good plan!

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Wed Aug 16, 2006 8:58 am

ace wrote:Steve can you do me a favor and see what your ground to front fender height is? I'm curious if i'm on the low side. Mine is 34.5.

Mine is 35-7/8" on both sides and my tires are 30.7" in diameter.

Steve

ace · Post by **ace** » Wed Aug 16, 2006 9:21 am

killian96ss wrote:
ace wrote:Steve can you do me a favor and see what your ground to front fender height is? I'm curious if i'm on the low side. Mine is 34.5.
Mine is 35-7/8" on both sides and my tires are 30.7" in diameter.

Steve

Thanks Steve!

ace · Post by **ace** » Mon Aug 21, 2006 9:31 am

I thought more about the fender to ground measurement and it can be obscured comparing the measurement to other CC's due to the fact the ZR5's fender flares drop below the upper fender. I did manage to cut off that corner we were talking about. It looks real good and the clearance is much better. I'm still waiting to hear for a rub going up inclines etc...

Post by **Walt** » Mon Aug 21, 2006 10:00 am

Another good way to measure, that eliminates the tire variable (pressure) is to measure from the center of the wheel to the bottom of the center of the fender.

WVHogRider · Post by **WVHogRider** » Wed Aug 23, 2006 3:42 am

Ok, so I finally got the new rims, (15x8 w/ 5.5 BS by Centerline) and tires, (30x9.5 Widetrack Baja MT's) mounted....Now I have tire rub with 30's. I never had trouble with 30x9.5 before. Looks like I'll have to get the BL pretty soon. I also mounted the step bars too. And yes, pictures will come soon, I just got to get the rest of the foam tape off from debadging it.

WVHogRider · Post by **WVHogRider** » Thu Aug 24, 2006 7:47 am

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Thu Aug 24, 2006 8:35 am

WVHogRider wrote:

I really like how those Centerlines look on your CC.

Now it's time for a BL.

Are those universal fit mud flaps you got on there, or are they S10 specific?

Steve

WVHogRider · Post by **WVHogRider** » Thu Aug 24, 2006 10:23 am

Thanks..And the mud flaps are the original stealership ones. Basically, the generic flat hard rubber ones that say S-10, I believe. The flaps might have to come off for the fender cuts or BFH inner well message, as I am now rubbing. BL

Yes in the near future.

rlrnr53 · Post by **rlrnr53** » Thu Aug 24, 2006 12:06 pm

Loohs Good, makes me wish I was 20 years younger with not as many obligations.