33's or 32's, and wheels....

Post by **Walt** » Sat Jun 17, 2006 6:16 am

f9k9 wrote:.....Little things like emergency brakes......

Steve2003 · Post by **Steve2003** » Mon Jun 19, 2006 11:32 am

Very nice Reed....one of the best looking S-10 crew cabs Iv'e seen

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Mon Jun 19, 2006 11:42 am

Thanks! I still like the dark ones like yours though.

Steve2003 · Post by **Steve2003** » Mon Jun 19, 2006 11:54 am

f9k9 wrote:Thanks! I still like the dark ones like yours though.

Want to trade?

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Jul 03, 2006 5:29 pm

HenryJ wrote:...33x10.5's will rub in the rough stuff. I was able to get the 9.50's to rub a little recently.

I found out a little more about where the rubbing is an issue.

With the front swaybar disconnected there is enough articulation to rub the inner fender. On a good bounce it rubs that bolt pretty hard. I don't think it will do damage. There is not really any more to alter this area without a pretty extensive alteration.
This is not an issue with width as it rubs when the wheel is straight. The 10.5's may fair just as well in this position. It is nice that the flare is spared.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Thu Jul 06, 2006 6:40 pm

Okay had the wheel stops built up today. The first two employees at the alleged "off-road"/muffler/tint shop freaked at my request.

Owner appeared in white shorts and I made the request to him. Go out in the gravel lot with dress clothes on, kneel down and point out what a "stop" was to him. He takes awhile to comprehend then agrees to do it. He thought the stock stops were a mod, I get nervous. I assured him that they were stock and he threw on a bead. Asks my opinion (as if, I know) and I said toss another one there (per HJ's recommendation). He does and while my truck is on the lift (mine is the only vehicle in the 6 bay shop) I asked him if he thought he could finish up my sliders by welding them on. He asked me what kind of welding he should do. I told him I wanted to be able to lift one side with a single jacking point. He raps his knuckles against Chris's sliders like they were gonna dent or something

He cleaned the surfaces, welded the sliders on, and then painted them for me. I am seeing dollars climbing towards the clouds. He finishes and asked if 25.00 was fair.

Sorry for the novel but, bottom line is Brule's forceful recommendation of the wheel stops being built up was the best suggestion of the tire mod. I was so hesitant to do sharp turning due to the tires rubbing the frame before. It is like night and day driving it now! I still have some minor cutting to do on the valence and lower inner fender but, now I know the noise is just an audible irratation and no damage is being done. A BFH could solve the inner fender but, I want to make it right.

Short term evaluation of 33/10.50s with 3.73 gears and a HPPIII is a definite "thumbs up"

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Jul 06, 2006 6:52 pm

f9k9 wrote:...had the wheel stops built up today. The first two employees at the alleged "off-road"/muffler/tint shop freaked at my request.

That was a pricless picture

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Thu Jul 06, 2006 7:17 pm

HenryJ wrote:
f9k9 wrote:...had the wheel stops built up today. The first two employees at the alleged "off-road"/muffler/tint shop freaked at my request.
That was a pricless picture

How many times have I tried to paint you a picture of what it is like here?

Spring shops, alternator shops, knowledgeable parts people and the list goes on

Things you take for granted in the small town of Ontario are not like that everywhere, especially in the heart of Appalachia

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Jul 07, 2006 3:13 am

Oh , I get the same thing here. They have learned my eccentricities though. Very few are shocked any more. A few are even excited to try new things , or learn a new trick.

Post by **Walt** » Fri Jul 07, 2006 3:55 am

Now I just have to figure out if 33x10.5's will work with my wheels.... 4" BS, 8" wide. Any insight?

gocntry · Post by **gocntry** » Fri Jul 07, 2006 5:02 am

f9k9 wrote:I asked him if he thought he could finish up my sliders by welding them on.

Why The Welding??

Did You Have Thoughts That The Factory Studs Aren't Strong Enough To Handle The Weight?

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Fri Jul 07, 2006 9:15 am

gocntry wrote:
f9k9 wrote:I asked him if he thought he could finish up my sliders by welding them on.
Why The Welding??

Did You Have Thoughts That The Factory Studs Aren't Strong Enough To Handle The Weight?

They are probably with the extra holes drilled in the frame that he drilled in the mounts. I just never finished drilling the extra holes and the CC was up in the air and he was already welding so, I went for it.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Fri Jul 07, 2006 9:19 am

Walt wrote:Now I just have to figure out if 33x10.5's will work with my wheels.... 4" BS, 8" wide. Any insight?

wheel width won't make a difference. I discovered I am actually 4.5" BS That would put you a half inch further out from the frame. Just a little less welding on the stops I would imagine.

Post by **Walt** » Fri Jul 07, 2006 10:59 am

Hmm...ok, I think I can live with that

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Fri Jul 07, 2006 5:04 pm

Walt wrote:Hmm...ok, I think I can live with that

Steve or Brule may correct me Walt but, my thinking is that it is tire meeting the frame and not the rim. You half a 1" wider rim but the tire cross section should not change all that much if, any at all.

Now, this part is where I "lose it" it most of the time

You have 1 " wider wheels but, if the cross section is relatively the same for the tire then we are equal there. You have 1/2" less back spacing. If, spacers are excluded from this scenario then you should have 1/4" additional movement of the tire before it hits the frame.

Now the mind blowing part is coming up. Do you remember when Barch went to the similar or same wheels and had major rubbing issues with no BL and STOCK tires? The moment BS is changed another whole set of problems arise. I was fine with the 30X9.50 Geolanders with my BL and 4.5" BS UNTIL I added the 1.25 spacers on the front

Tire rub on the fender or flare becomes an issue when upsizing tires and throwing in different BS and the frame rub is no longer an issue.

I did my final cutting on the valence tonight. The driver's side inner fender well just needed a little coaxing to not rub like the passenger side.

It looks to me if, I am going to have any more problems it would be the bottom of front bumper and I don't recall and threads on several forums concerning that issue.

Again, it is such a relief not to worry about my tires hitting the frame and as much as I despise admitting it, you will hardly notice the increased turning radius according to

"BRULE 4:17"

Blaze One · Post by **Blaze One** » Tue Jul 18, 2006 10:10 pm

What kind of ground clearance do you have now that you are running a 33" tire ?
Ie: Fr/Rr Diffs , Lowest frame and skid plates

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Wed Jul 19, 2006 2:55 am

Blaze One wrote:What kind of ground clearance do you have now that you are running a 33" tire ?
Ie: Fr/Rr Diffs , Lowest frame and skid plates

Will try to get you some measurements this weekend.

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Jul 19, 2006 3:29 am

Blaze One wrote:What kind of ground clearance do you have now that you are running a 33" tire ?
Ie: Fr/Rr Diffs , Lowest frame and skid plates

HenryJ wrote:12.5 inches of clearance at the front skid plate and 10 inches clearance at the rear differential. The mid point break over height measures 12.5 inches.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Jul 23, 2006 1:08 pm

Walt wrote:
f9k9 wrote:.....Little things like emergency brakes......

Emergency brake is now modified and all my major mods that I had planned on are complete

They are quite a few minor ones like Jeremy's sway bar disconnect and his Hi Lift jack roof rack mount but, I'll pin him down on TXZR2.COM on how he manages to drill holes through the threaded portion of a bolt there.

It's just a relief to have everything "temporarily" working on a DD!

top_sgt · Post by **top_sgt** » Sun Jul 23, 2006 2:52 pm

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Jul 23, 2006 3:05 pm

top_sgt wrote:

Thanks "DogFace"

I'm here if, and when you need help for your furure mods that need assistance

top_sgt · Post by **top_sgt** » Sun Jul 23, 2006 3:17 pm

f9k9 wrote:Thanks "DogFace"

I'm here if, and when you need help for your furure mods that need assistance

appreciate it there, "jarhead"!!!

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Jul 23, 2006 3:26 pm

top_sgt wrote:Thanks "DogFace"

I'm here if, and when you need help for your furure mods that need assistance

top_sgt wrote:appreciate it there, "jarhead"!!!

Still waiting on your 410a so that I may learn

top_sgt · Post by **top_sgt** » Sun Jul 23, 2006 3:29 pm

i see i messed up the "quote line"!!!!1

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Jul 23, 2006 6:17 pm

top_sgt wrote:i see i messed up the "quote line"!!!!1

Not a prob, bro

kermit · Post by **kermit** » Wed Sep 13, 2006 2:55 pm

My 30x9.5s are seriously balding, BL is on the way, i have flares, and was wanting to try 32x11.5s.... any suggestions on wheel/backspacing combinations?

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Wed Sep 13, 2006 3:11 pm

11.50s are in uncharted waters. You will rub somewhere, I promise. You may not even want to consider them. Why not try what has already been tested?

kermit · Post by **kermit** » Wed Sep 13, 2006 3:32 pm

i hear ya. what about some 285/75/15 ... actual diameter 31.8? how bad do you're 33x10.5s rub?

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Thu Sep 14, 2006 1:31 am

kermit wrote:i hear ya. what about some 285/75/15 ... actual diameter 31.8? how bad do you're 33x10.5s rub?

I don't know about the 285/75/15s. My 33s don't rub anywhere since I had the steering stops built up and did the final trimming on my valance.

Post by **Walt** » Thu Sep 14, 2006 5:00 am

Kermit, if you do some major fender cutting (like what is required for Skidz flares) you should be able to fit a 32x11.5x15, but like Reed said, it is uncharted territory

kermit · Post by **kermit** » Thu Sep 14, 2006 1:03 pm

Im have a set of flares sitting in the shop, and the funds have been allocated for the lift... i just have to decide on the tire/wheel combo now

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Thu Sep 14, 2006 1:26 pm

Use the calculators Brule has provided on the main page to see what 285/75/15s come out to in width. I personally wouldn't want to go wider than mine in the 33s. If you are looking for a street queen then all kinds of rims and tire sizes are available.

Going off road then I think I am borderline in size and width. I have a ride coming up on sunday and it should tell the tale. I wish I had my front sway bar discoed but, no time now.

kermit · Post by **kermit** » Sun Nov 05, 2006 3:05 pm

BODY LIFT COMPLETE! The flares are next on the to-do list, so I need to get the right wheel/backspacing configuration from y'all. Any suggestions on where to snag some wheels at a good price?

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Nov 05, 2006 6:40 pm

What size tire have you decided to go with? That would help us recommend a wheel to you.

Congrats on the BL

kermit · Post by **kermit** » Mon Nov 06, 2006 2:40 pm

I was thinkin 33x10.5 BFG... your truck looks awesome!

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Mon Nov 06, 2006 3:11 pm

Thanks, Kermit but, the 10.50s are not as proven as the 9.50s and I am yet battling to get 2 replaced. I may have that problem solved tomorrow but, that is another story

I don't recall the color of your truck but if you can deal with black, the cheapest route is from Summit Racing.
USW-84-5734PL

$41.88
Estimated Ship Date: Tomorrow
overview Application Suggested Parts Warranty Show All
Brand: U.S. Wheel
Product Line: U.S. Wheel 84 Series Black Daytona Wheels
Rim Diameter (in): 15 in.
Rim Width (in): 7.00 in.
Backspacing (in): 4.500 in.
Offset (mm): +12.00mm
Beadlock Functional: No
Beadlock Included: No
Rim Material: Steel
Center Material: Steel
Wheel Finish: Black
Lug Nut Seat Style: Conical seat
Wheel Construction: 2-piece
Conical Seat Taper: 60 degree
Hub Centric: No
Center Bore Diameter (in): 3.300 in.
Center Cap Included: No
Valve Stems Included: No
Quantity: Sold individually.
Notes: Wheels feature a larger inside diameter to help clear bigger brakes. Wheel, Daytona, Steel, Black, 15 in. x 7 in., 5 x 4.75 in. Bolt Circle, 4.5 in. Backspace, Each

It will eliminate the need for front spacers but you will still need 1.25" spacers in the rear to help even up the front and rear. The chrome center caps are extra.

You will still need to have the steering stops built up on the front lower a arms and will probably need to explain to the shop on how to do it. You will lose some turning radius but, you'll adapt to it quickly.

kermit · Post by **kermit** » Tue Nov 07, 2006 7:39 am

Thanks for the info! FYI ... the truck is dark green, and black is definately the direction i was headed!

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Tue Nov 07, 2006 3:34 pm

f9k9 wrote:Thanks, Kermit but, the 10.50s are not as proven as the 9.50s and I am yet battling to get 2 replaced. I may have that problem solved tomorrow but, that is another story ...........

Time line.............

It's "tomorrow" and I had my first interstate run on the TA/KOs w/o worrying about fillings being rattled loose

I had the two bad ATs replaced, the dealer called BFG/Michelin Consumer Relations confirming that the bad tires were "scrapped"! I have faxed them the invoice, as they requested, and once I have my reimbursement check in hand the matter will be closed. Five months is a long time to wait to have a matter corrected and hopefully it finally is.

Kermit, I'd recommend checking around to see if, local dealers will price match any online savings. I bought these last two tires at very close to Summit's price. I did have to pay state tax and tire disposal feels

but, when you start adding up losing time from work, the aggravation, the headaches...etc, you'll be better off buying locally (at least in my scenario

).

Buying the Summit's tires cost me $164.43 per tire. This figure was achieved by adding up their handling charges (divided by 5), the extra shipping charges for the oversize item and only one balance charge (I paid for three when all is said and done).

Today I paid a total of $165.57 per tire and this included state tax. new valve stem, balancing and tire disposal fees.

I saved a whooping $1.14 buying online, spent five months getting 2 tires replaced, I burned about 10 hrs in vacation time, racked up a couple hundred miles on the CC and made a couple dealers mad (as if, I could give a flip)

All something to consider when buying tires. Now, when you buy online unless you live in a decent sized city, you have a Sears Auto Center close by, you are a manager of a large fleet of vehicles (like HenryJ), or you are good buddies with your local wallyworld's automotive manager (like Walt), I'd look to buying local.

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Nov 07, 2006 4:35 pm

Good advice. I always check locally first. Money spent in your community is a better investment than supporting someone else's community.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Tue Nov 07, 2006 5:01 pm

HenryJ wrote:Good advice. I always check locally first. Money spent in your community is a better investment than supporting someone else's community.

<<<<<<On the back side of fifty and know that there will always be room to keep learning

Brule is totally correct in his advice. At least, I have a local invoice now, for any warranty issues that hopefully will never arise in the future

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Tue Nov 07, 2006 6:18 pm

HenryJ wrote:I always check locally first. Money spent in your community is a better investment than supporting someone else's community.

I totally agree!!! When I need new tires I usually get my quotes from Tirerack and then go to my local tire guy and ask if he will match the price. He has matched their price on the last 4 sets of tires I have purchased from him.

I know he had to take a small loss each time, but he is still making a small profit and would like to keep me as a regular customer for life. He does all my alignment work, flat repairs, and he is also a car nut who likes working on muscle cars.

He is the only tire guy I have ever met who I completely trust working on all my vehicles.

I am very picky, meticulous, not to mention a perfectionist when it comes to my vehicles and he is the same way.

If you can build a good relationship with a local tire shop you will be much happier each time you need new tires or other service performed on your vehicle.

Steve

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Wed Nov 08, 2006 4:18 pm

Received this today but, I still see phrases Should and I never accept a situation as solved until I have money "in hand".

Mike BFGoodrich Tires Consumer Relations Department wrote:Mr. Wetter,

Thank you for your email. We appreciate the opportunity to serve you.
We received your invoice and we have requested reimbursement for your two BFGoodrich tires. You should receive the check in about two weeks.

Thank you for using BFGoodrich tires.

An interesting note to all of this is that BFG's MSRP price is $149 and most online and local dealers are charging more.

top_sgt · Post by **top_sgt** » Thu Nov 09, 2006 3:24 pm

f9k9 wrote: An interesting note to all of this is that BFG's MSRP price is $149 and most online and local dealers are charging more.

isn't that what they call "profit??"

gairbear · Post by **gairbear** » Thu Nov 09, 2006 4:27 pm

Usually...MSRP (Manufacturers Suggested Retail Price) Includes a profit for all parties involved......People just get a bit greedy sometimes.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Thu Nov 09, 2006 5:26 pm

gairbear wrote:Usually...MSRP (Manufacturers Suggested Retail Price) Includes a profit for all parties involved......People just get a bit greedy sometimes.

Other than these tires, I NEVER pay MSRP! That is like walking onto a new car lot and looking at the "sticker" and saying "Excuse me Mr. Low Life LOT LIZARD, I'll take on of these in red, when you have a moment"!

That ain't happening on this Lad's watch!

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Thu Nov 09, 2006 6:00 pm

kermit wrote:Thanks for the info! FYI ... the truck is dark green, and black is definitely the direction i was headed!

What is your timeline on this Kermit? Am kinda looking forward to having a second CC on the 9.50s or 10.50s

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Nov 09, 2006 6:11 pm

f9k9 wrote:...kinda looking forward to having a second CC on the 9.50s or 10.50s

What am I chopped liver? I kinda thought you were the second on 9.50s or 10.50s

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Thu Nov 09, 2006 6:14 pm

HenryJ wrote:
f9k9 wrote:...kinda looking forward to having a second CC on the 9.50s or 10.50s
What am I chopped liver? I kinda thought you were the second on 9.50s or 10.50s

You are the first on the 9.50s, I am the 1st on 10.50s. We both need a second in either size to validate them. You are the pioneer, I merely followed, HJ

To be honest, I would have already had you validated if, I could have found the 9.50s readily available. I have a sinking suspicion that I am a ticking time bomb due to the added weight. Time will tell.

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Nov 09, 2006 6:26 pm

f9k9 wrote:...I merely followed...

You make us sound like Lemmings

Just yanking your chain

It will be nice to see a few more on 33s. I need to research the options for the 9.50s again. I heard that there may be a couple more to choose from now. I still have a long time to think about it, but it never hurts to see what is out there.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Thu Nov 09, 2006 6:34 pm

As far as I know, Firestone/Bridgestine and Yokohams still do not have the 9.50s. It would be nice to have more options.

kermit · Post by **kermit** » Thu Nov 09, 2006 6:44 pm

f9k9 wrote:
kermit wrote:Thanks for the info! FYI ... the truck is dark green, and black is definitely the direction i was headed!
What is your timeline on this Kermit? Am kinda looking forward to having a second CC on the 9.50s or 10.50s

The CC is my DD... so its being worked on whenever time permits, given that at the end of every session, it will be drivable the following day. Between school and work.... I just have to make time. period. Like I said before, the bodylift is done, the flares are next (hopefully no more than a week away), then wheels/tires.

I hope to have all of the above completed along with the BSW springs, and possibly step bars by Dec 9 (MY BDAY)... the cold weather is a pain to work in.

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Nov 09, 2006 6:45 pm

Michelin and Cooper were the rumors. There may have been a choice in Bridgestone/Firestone too, but I think it was a highway tire.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Thu Nov 09, 2006 6:53 pm

HenryJ wrote:Michelin and Cooper were the rumors. There may have been a choice in Bridgestone/Firestone too, but I think it was a highway tire.

Michelin makes sense since all of my recent correspondence with BFG was signed "BFG/Michelin"

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Thu Nov 09, 2006 7:12 pm

kermit wrote:.............. the flares are next .

Take your time on the flares. No mere mortal can do it as quick as Brule. There is no shame running around without flares while work is in progress. Getting one or two done in a weekend would be something to be proud of. Brule did his in under a day but, he has been wrenching since before Henry Ford had picked out what was the best wood for his spoked wheels.

I spent a long time looking for items that he used, using his nomenclature but, discovered that nomenclature differs from one part of our country to the next. Feel free to PM Brule 24/7 for any questions that comes up.

I'm. just kidding, Kermit. If you are a newbie and a perfectionist......plan on over 40 hours total. Get the cutting done and you can take all the time you need to on fitting the flares. PM me for my ph no and if, I can help, I'll be glad to.

Post by **Walt** » Thu Nov 09, 2006 8:56 pm

f9k9 wrote:
kermit wrote:.............. the flares are next .
Take your time on the flares. No mere mortal can do it as quick as Brule. There is no shame running around without flares while work is in progress. Getting one or two done in a weekend would be something to be proud of. Brule did his in under a day but, he has been wrenching since before Henry Ford had picked out what was the best wood for his spoked wheels.

Reed, I'm hurt that my name wasn't mentioned. I did my flares in 11 hours in 20 degree weather, and rain! And had to take several long breaks to work on a broken PC. I also survived Katrina.

Just kidding man.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Fri Nov 10, 2006 3:25 am

Walt wrote:Reed, I'm hurt that my name wasn't mentioned. I did my flares in 11 hours in 20 degree weather, and rain! And had to take several long breaks to work on a broken PC. I also survived Katrina.

Just kidding man.

Time only counts when you do it once (by yourself) and you ain't never seen (the grammar is intentional) 20° weather

Post by **Walt** » Fri Nov 10, 2006 6:36 am

f9k9 wrote:
Walt wrote:Reed, I'm hurt that my name wasn't mentioned. I did my flares in 11 hours in 20 degree weather, and rain! And had to take several long breaks to work on a broken PC. I also survived Katrina.

Just kidding man.
Time only counts when you do it once (by yourself) and you ain't never seen (the grammar is intentional) 20° weather

kermit · Post by **kermit** » Sat Dec 09, 2006 8:34 am

So I went afterschool to get my 33x10.5s mounted on my new wheels yesterday.... and they rubbed the frame a little too much for my comfort.
The guys at the local shop are really nice, one of them is a hunting buddy, so he brought me out and showed me exactly what was going on. He also showed me that my CV boots were slingin grease and told me that my axle shafts needed replacing along with my idler arm and pass. side ball joint. So, on top of reducing tire size to 33x9.5, I have to shell out another $800 for a little preventative maintenance. The tires looked AWESOME while they were on the the truck. I wanted soooo bad for them to fit. I guess I'll just have to ride around like a retard for a little while longer with my bald 30x9.5s hidden deep inside my skidz cut out flares....

After looking of http://bfgoodrichtires.com at sizes/specs, if I swapped out my 15" rims for 16" rims an LT265/75R16 has a diameter of 31.9 and width 10.5 .... I'd have to wait on the 16" rims to get here and then send the 15" ones back...

Any thoughts?

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Dec 09, 2006 12:00 pm

Do you have a TB crank? If do, how much? Which boots are slinging grease?
If, they are the inboard ones a large radiator clamp will fix that. The 9.50s will rub too with stock wheels and spacers. That is why you need to have your steering stops built up to prevent the tires rubbing the frame. What is the BS to your new wheels?

kermit · Post by **kermit** » Sun Dec 10, 2006 10:52 am

TB is cranked, not sure how much. Both boots are slinging grease. Backspacing on new wheels is 4.5"

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Dec 10, 2006 11:28 am

kermit wrote:TB is cranked, not sure how much. Both boots are slinging grease. Backspacing on new wheels is 4.5"

Has the boots just come loose? New clamps and more grease is alot cheaper than pulling the axles. I'm pretty sure that those tires will rub the frame as well.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Dec 10, 2006 1:47 pm

f9k9 wrote:New clamps and more grease is alot cheaper than pulling the axles.

Amen! Add some grease if you have lost quite a bit and use hose clamps to hold the boots. Any parts store should be able to find some the right size. A narrower clamp works the best. My old S-10 Has been running this way for over a decade. There is room for the clamps on the inside or out.
Adding a new crimped clamp will not work. Once a little grease gets under the lip on that boot it is nearly impossible to get a clamp tight enough to stay.

The 9.5s will rub too. Not nearly as bad though. About the same , or a little worse than 31x10.5s with no spacers. You will need to have the stops built up a little. Then things will work just right. The limited turning radius will feel "normal" after a little while.

kermit · Post by **kermit** » Sun Dec 10, 2006 1:50 pm

... so just stick with the 10.5s?

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Dec 10, 2006 1:57 pm

Oh, no. I didn't say that. I like the narrower tire. It offers less rolling resistance. Less unsprung weight. A longer footprint when aired down. More deflection. Less weight equals perhaps a tire easier to balance and good on highway manners. Matches the rim width allowing higher air pressures with even wear. Easier on suspension components? Better gas mileage?

The wider tires look

, better flotation , hold a bead better when aired down on a narrow wheel.

I would use the 9.50s again, but that is just me

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Dec 10, 2006 2:30 pm

The only reason why I went with the 10.50 is that Summit was pissing me off in getting the 9.50s shipped. I then spent 6 months getting 2 bad 10.50s replaced but, that is another story.

kermit · Post by **kermit** » Sun Dec 10, 2006 4:41 pm

The local shop is getting me 2 33x9.5s for a test fit on the front on Monday... That's probably the direction I'll go. Maybe that 1/2" is all I need?

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Dec 10, 2006 5:20 pm

kermit wrote:The local shop is getting me 2 33x9.5s for a test fit on the front on Monday... That's probably the direction I'll go. Maybe that 1/2" is all I need?

Please listen

You will want to have the steering stops built up a little. If, you are unsure about what Brule is suggesting, I will be glad to snap a pic so. you can tell some muffler shop meat head what you need done. I got my stops built up and my sliders welded for $20

kermit · Post by **kermit** » Sun Dec 10, 2006 5:26 pm

ok... i think a picture would help immensely

*I think I found them, about 1" long hex pieces on the lower control arms? How much needs to be added to them? How much does it take away from the turning radius?

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Dec 10, 2006 6:01 pm

This is laying down looking forward at your front driver's side wheel. The steering stop is in the lower left quadrant but, near the center. It looks shiny, It is located on the lower control arm and you have one facing to the rear and one to the front. The rear is what affects the frame rubbing. I had my guy make 2 passes of adding metal but, I could use an additional pass because I am still rubbing. You'll see the frame rub in the 3rd pic but, I can't feel it so, I am unconcerned. I hope this helps. I was really concerned about loss of steering radius but, I adapted quickly and don't notice it now. I went through the same thing with my first work K-9. I had to learn to brake earlier before a turn. It took a week or so, but, it made our relationship a lot better when I didn't tick him off

Pardon the mud and dangling vegetation. I spent probably $20 in quarters but am going to have to try the lawn sprinkler method of loosening the mud and debris after my next trail ride.

kermit · Post by **kermit** » Sun Dec 10, 2006 6:15 pm

What a friendly bunch! That definately helps.

I'm still going to see how the 9.5s look tomorrow and how much (if) they rub and go from there. Thanks again! I'll be sure and let y'all know what I find out.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Dec 10, 2006 6:34 pm

kermit wrote: What a friendly bunch! That definately helps.

I'm still going to see how the 9.5s look tomorrow and how much (if) they rub and go from there. Thanks again! I'll be sure and let y'all know what I find out.

This portion of the "friendly bunch" will wager you'll rub and willing to put my money where my mouth is.

kermit · Post by **kermit** » Mon Dec 11, 2006 2:14 pm

yep... I figure while I'm adding to the stops, I may as well stuff the 10.5s under the truck. The 9.5s look like pizza cutters after seeing the 10.5s. I'll try and get some pics as soon as I can.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Mon Dec 11, 2006 3:53 pm

kermit wrote:The 9.5s look like pizza cutters after seeing the 10.5s.

The 9.5" wide 30's look ok, but that width on a 33 looks kind of funny.

Steve

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Mon Dec 11, 2006 5:39 pm

I really wish I was able to get the 9.50s when I needed them. The difference in weight is 8 pounds per tire. 8 additional pounds is eventually gonna to take it's toll somewhere down the road. What was that commercial? You can pay me now, or you can pay me later"

kermit · Post by **kermit** » Tue Dec 12, 2006 2:06 pm

The overall difference in section width is only about a 1/2" when mounted on a 7" rim. The difference in weight comes into play in the tread widtth.

Man do these things look AWESOME!!! My right front tire took about 6oz to balance. My buddy said they tried mounting the tire on the rim at different positions and did the best that they could, but the steel rims were very off balance. I'll get some pics as soon as my center caps come in (any day now).