New wheels need help

D68enny · Post by **D68enny** » Mon Mar 13, 2006 1:15 pm

I just ordered some new black steel wheels and they are 15X8 with 4 inches of backspacing and -12.00mm offset. I am running 31 x 10.5 x 15 Kumho mud tires on the new wheels. Currently on my truck I have the stock wheels and tires with 2 inch rear spacers and 1.25 inch front spacers. I have the 2 in body lift shackles and torsion crank. What is the best thing to do with my new wheels to keep the same look I have now with my old wheels. In terms of not sticking out to far and rubbing as little as possible. I am trying to see if I need any othr kind of spacers, or if i can just put the front spacers on the rear and nothing on the front. Thanks for the help.

Post by **Walt** » Mon Mar 13, 2006 2:15 pm

D68enny wrote:I just ordered some new black steel wheels and they are 15X8 with 4 inches of backspacing and -12.00mm offset. I am running 31 x 10.5 x 15 Kumho mud tires on the new wheels. Currently on my truck I have the stock wheels and tires with 2 inch rear spacers and 1.25 inch front spacers. I have the 2 in body lift shackles and torsion crank. What is the best thing to do with my new wheels to keep the same look I have now with my old wheels. In terms of not sticking out to far and rubbing as little as possible. I am trying to see if I need any othr kind of spacers, or if i can just put the front spacers on the rear and nothing on the front. Thanks for the help.

Hate to tell you this man, but you're going to rub on the from like a mofo. You need Skidz cutout flares. I'm running the same black 15x8 wheels with 4" BS and 31x10.5x15's. They rubbed pretty badly until I got the flares. Also, on the spacers, take the front spacer off, but leave the 2" spacers on the rear. It may seem like a big difference, but it helps the rear wheel line up better with the fender bulge. That is how I'm running now, no spacers on the from, and 2"s on the rear with my black wheels.

jeff024 · Post by **jeff024** » Mon Mar 13, 2006 2:52 pm

I think i would go 1 1/4s on the rear and nothing on the front if your not running flares

Post by **Walt** » Mon Mar 13, 2006 3:36 pm

jeff024 wrote:I think i would go 1 1/4s on the rear and nothing on the front if your not running flares

Just get ready to do some fender trimming/hammering on the front

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Mon Mar 13, 2006 3:53 pm

jeff024 wrote:I think i would go 1 1/4s on the rear and nothing on the front if your not running flares

Definitely

wamason wrote: Hate to tell you this man, but you're going to rub on the from like a mofo.......

And don't even think about hitting a driveway at much of an angle. I learned the hard way and I was warned

D68enny · Post by **D68enny** » Mon Mar 13, 2006 9:04 pm

So if I can keep this baby running in a straight line with no bumps I am good to go as is. Do the fronts rub on the front or back of the fender? Thanks for the info. I was not looking forward to this.

D68enny · Post by **D68enny** » Mon Mar 13, 2006 9:06 pm

Never mind I just saw on this thread they rub in the front.

Post by **Walt** » Mon Mar 13, 2006 9:40 pm

Actually, the will rub the most of the back of the front fenders. You'll get some occaisional rub on the front valance, but most will be from the back of the front fender...

D68enny · Post by **D68enny** » Tue Mar 14, 2006 11:09 am

So you mean on the inside part of the wheel well? Can trimming and hammering be done to fix this and have it still look ok? I just spent my last bit of cash on a Hypertech. I thought the wheels would clear so I spent what was left of my state tax return to fix the tire size change with a Hypertech. Damn this rubbing. Hopefully my hammer and some kind of tin snips will do the trick. Do the S10's have the factory flares that sort of meet up with the bumber and the side moldings on the truck? I have a GMC. It is hard to explain clearly, but that lower piece that starts at the front bumber goes into the front flare and then down the lower part of the truck and then into the rear flare? I would go flareless and make some cuts, but I still have all this molding around that would stick out with the flares missing. What to do.

D68enny · Post by **D68enny** » Tue Mar 14, 2006 11:25 am

Hey Wamason. Are those the factory flares on your truck? When I look at your truck it just looks different than mine. My flares are more squared off and blend in more. I have some kind of molding on the sides of my truck. I am trying to find a picture of a Sonoma to compare.

D68enny · Post by **D68enny** » Tue Mar 14, 2006 11:45 am

I think the ZR5 was throwing me off. The have a different looking factory flare. It looks more rounded and is black. The regular crewcabs I think have body colored flares.

Post by **Walt** » Tue Mar 14, 2006 1:21 pm

Actually I have Skidz cutout flares. My wheel openings have been signifacantly enlarged

My flares also stick out from the body by about four inches

AZS10Crew · Post by **AZS10Crew** » Tue Mar 14, 2006 3:03 pm

D68enny wrote:So you mean on the inside part of the wheel well? Can trimming and hammering be done to fix this and have it still look ok? I just spent my last bit of cash on a Hypertech. I thought the wheels would clear so I spent what was left of my state tax return to fix the tire size change with a Hypertech. Damn this rubbing. Hopefully my hammer and some kind of tin snips will do the trick. Do the S10's have the factory flares that sort of meet up with the bumber and the side moldings on the truck? I have a GMC. It is hard to explain clearly, but that lower piece that starts at the front bumber goes into the front flare and then down the lower part of the truck and then into the rear flare? I would go flareless and make some cuts, but I still have all this molding around that would stick out with the flares missing. What to do.

They'll rub on the rear side of the wheel well at the bottom and at the bottom right corner of the wheel opening as you're looking at the driver's side front wheel, bottom left for passenger side front wheel. There's really no amount of hammering that will get the fender out of the way enough to not rub at all. If you take it REAL easy when turning and hitting a bump, it may not rub, but I'm talking barely creeping over the bumps. Easiest way is to get the cutout flares.

ZR5OnIt · Post by **ZR5OnIt** » Tue Mar 14, 2006 7:05 pm

You could do the fender mods alone if desired. That's what I did after I got the Superlift, then put the old flares back on till I scraped up the cash to get the cutouts. The 33's still rubbed on the lower edges of the flares when fully loaded, but was serviceable if I was careful.
Pics with fender mods and ZR5 flares, before rear spacers:

Compare these to the after pic with the cutouts + spacers, and you'll see why I said F@#% it & lived on Ramen noodles for a couple weeks

D68enny · Post by **D68enny** » Tue Mar 14, 2006 7:55 pm

Your truck looks great. The flares make it look so much better. Did you do the fender mods just like the directions on the modification page? I was thinking I will just do the fronts for now and wait a while until my wife cools down from buying the wheels and tires and then get the flares. Thanks for the info.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Tue Mar 14, 2006 7:55 pm

Oh gawd, here comes the image Police

You can do the "cutting" per HJ's Skidz instructions and wait on the flares. BTW......I stash my future mod material at work and squeeze it in when she isn't looking. A bonus is a lot of shipping is cheaper at a business address.

Steve2003 · Post by **Steve2003** » Tue Mar 14, 2006 8:13 pm

That sure is a nice looking Crew you got there ZR5OnIt!

That close up is awesome!

D68enny · Post by **D68enny** » Tue Mar 14, 2006 9:33 pm

I may have to do the work shipping thing. I am always hauling ass home to see if something was delivered, and to keep my wife from seeing it first. It sucks when something takes like 2 extra weeks to be delivered.

Hey Steve2003,

Where did you get your light bar? I have been looking around for an ORI, but can't find one anywhere except from their site and none of the links work on their site. I was trying to find one from one of the places that has free shipping.

jeff024 · Post by **jeff024** » Thu Mar 30, 2006 2:42 pm

1 of these are most likely my next wheel

Snoman002 · Post by **Snoman002** » Thu Mar 30, 2006 5:29 pm

D68enny wrote:I may have to do the work shipping thing. I am always hauling ass home to see if something was delivered, and to keep my wife from seeing it first. It sucks when something takes like 2 extra weeks to be delivered.

Don't spend to much and start saving up for some balljoints and wheel bearings, those 4" BS rims will murder front end components. I put MOOG balljoints and new wheel bearings on every year, and not because I want to.

Steve2003 · Post by **Steve2003** » Thu Mar 30, 2006 5:35 pm

D68enny wrote:
Hey Steve2003,

Where did you get your light bar? I have been looking around for an ORI, but can't find one anywhere except from their site and none of the links work on their site. I was trying to find one from one of the places that has free shipping.

ORW Give them a call

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Thu Mar 30, 2006 5:42 pm

Snoman002 wrote:I put MOOG balljoints and new wheel bearings on every year, and not because I want to.

What are you doing to your truck that requires new wheel bearings and ball joints every year?

I have 80k miles on my CC and still have the stock ball joints and wheel bearings which are still very tight.

I have always wondered if the Mobil 1 synthetic grease that I use every 3000 miles is the reason my stock parts are holding up so well.

Steve

jeff024 · Post by **jeff024** » Thu Mar 30, 2006 5:57 pm

killian96ss wrote:
Snoman002 wrote:I put MOOG balljoints and new wheel bearings on every year, and not because I want to.
What are you doing to your truck that requires new wheel bearings and ball joints every year? I have 80k miles on my CC and still have the stock ball joints and wheel bearings which are still very tight. I have always wondered if the Mobil 1 synthetic grease that I use every 3000 miles is the reason my stock parts are holding up so well.

Steve

Im at 110000 miles with all stock front end parts

Steve2003 · Post by **Steve2003** » Thu Mar 30, 2006 6:08 pm

killian96ss wrote:
Snoman002 wrote:I put MOOG balljoints and new wheel bearings on every year, and not because I want to.
What are you doing to your truck that requires new wheel bearings and ball joints every year?

Steve

Maybe he's doing something like this.

Or maybe he's doing this

Snoman002 · Post by **Snoman002** » Thu Mar 30, 2006 7:07 pm

Steve2003 wrote:Maybe he's doing something like this.
image
Or maybe he's doing this
image

Nope, just street driving (granted, their was quite a bit of rough dirt road driving at that time). And I do regular maintance on the front end parts.

Going to a zero offset rim places more than twice the force on the outside edge of the wheel bearing. Also, since the balljoints are mostly inline with the center of the tire the upper balljoint experiences very little sideways stress (except during cornering), placing the wheel out more greatly increase the sideways stress on the balljoint (cornering stress goes upward also. Cranking the t-bars so the upper arm is not level (outside lower) greatly increases the stress on the upper balljoint too.

S-10CREWCAB.NET

New wheels need help

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