Spacers and Tires and Problems Oh My !

Fitting oversize tires, raising and lowering, suspension modifications...

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Spacers and Tires and Problems Oh My !

Post by 04crewvt »

So today was the big day. My Spacers from Complete value came in on Thursday 2.5" hubcentric for the rear and 1" hubcentric for the front. My new Mastercraft Courser A/T's came in yesterday and I had them mounted on my stock rims this morning. While waiting for them I started to prep everything for the spacers got out my wire brush and cleaned up the mounting surfaces bolted up the rear spacers and got the new rear tires installed as soon as they were ready. That's when the fun ended, seems that the slight vibration I had started feeling the other day in the front end wasn't the need for a lube job which is what I was planning to do but a broken stud that is now rattling around inside the rotor with no way for me to get at it to replace it. I just don't have the right tools to remove the brake assembly and the rotor to get another on on there. So I figure I will just finish the other side and get my tire shop to fix the stud problem. That's when I find that the inner cv boot on the passenger side has blown and has thrown grease everywhere. So now it's a trip to the dealership for replacment under warranty but I can't drive it there because of the stud ratteling around in the driver's side rotor. What a PITA :twisted:

Anyway I think the spacers and tires combo looks great.
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Post by F9K9 »

Just to be safe, I'd lose the spacers before the trip to the dealer but, yours may be more understanding. Looks really good though!
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Post by 04crewvt »

Well I shouldn't have any problems with the spacers they literally have been on there for less than 50 ft of driving. Same thing with the non stock size tires and I have all the paperwork to show that if I need to but they seem to be ok so far with repairs. Only thing I am afraid of is they will want to lower the t-bars which I really don't want. It wallowed like a pig before I had them adjusted.
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Post by F9K9 »

04crewvt wrote:Well I shouldn't have any problems with the spacers they literally have been on there for less than 50 ft of driving. Same thing with the non stock size tires and I have all the paperwork to show that if I need to but they seem to be ok so far with repairs. Only thing I am afraid of is they will want to lower the t-bars which I really don't want. It wallowed like a pig before I had them adjusted.
I went through h*ll for months over my crank. Others had no problem. I swore off new GM products because of the dealer and GM customer assistance in Detroit.
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Post by top_sgt »

i agree with reed....aka f9k9!!

having worked at dealerships as a mechanic.....you go in with the spacers on and they may not replace the lug under waranty!!! they will say it happened when you put the spacers on!!!!!
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Post by 04crewvt »

The stud I am not worried about I think with f9k9's help I will be all right with trying to get that out of the rotor, where it is stuck, on my own. I can at least drive it in to the dealer's on 4. As for the spacer it is sitting in my front seat obviously not ever having been installed. If they charge me for replacing one stud that's not a big deal. I would only be pi--ed if they try to give me grief about fixing the CV boot on the other side.
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Post by HenryJ »

The tire shop that broke the stud might replace the broken stud for you, but the dealership should not be expected to repair it under warranty.

Check all the studs for signs of over torquing. Cracking, stretching or messed up threads would be indicators. I am worried that if one stud broke, others may not be far behind. There has to be a reason that stud broke. Are the others OK?

I would not install any of the spacers until after a closer inspection of all of your wheel studs. Breaking a wheel stud is not something that should happen unless they were damaged.

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Post by F9K9 »

You have this issue going in to many threads for this old man :lol:

I forgot to tell you that if, your brake fluid is over half way between min and max in your fluid resivoir you will need to remove some before you use the C-clamp. It will push fluid into there when you seperate the pads so, that you can remove the caliber. I think it was "rock" that suggested using your wife's turkey baster to suck some out. Just replace it asap :lol: An added caution is that brake fluid + paint = bare metal.
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Post by 04crewvt »

in this case it would be my ex-wifes baster and I did that years ago when I dropped a bolt into the manifold when changing a thermostat. I have worked on brakes before I just have always had the proper repair manual to guide me. I just can't stomach spending the money on the cd repair manuals and Haynes/Chilton manuals do not cover our model years as of yet.
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Post by HenryJ »

04crewvt wrote:...Haynes/Chilton manuals do not cover our model years as of yet.
Haynes is available for '94-'01. For the limited information that they offer, there should not be major differences.
The money spent on a good set of manuals is the best investment you can make if you plan to keep the vehicle long term.

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Post by jeff024 »

04crewvt

theres only 2 bolts to remove to get the caliper off once removed the only thing holding the hub on is I think 1 retaining clip after removing that you may have to give it a wack to get it lose but once the hubs off the studs are easy to replace. I have just done both front wheels about 2 weeks ago because I have broken 3 on the passanger side and 1 on the driver side.When I did mine I did not remove any brake fluid there should be enough room in the resivoir for the small amount that will be needed to push the pads back with a C-clamp.
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Post by F9K9 »

jeff024 wrote:04crewvt

theres only 2 bolts to remove to get the caliper off once removed the only thing holding the hub on is I think 1 retaining clip after removing that you may have to give it a wack to get it lose but once the hubs off the studs are easy to replace. I have just done both front wheels about 2 weeks ago because I have broken 3 on the passanger side and 1 on the driver side.When I did mine I did not remove any brake fluid there should be enough room in the resivoir for the small amount that will be needed to push the pads back with a C-clamp.
We covered all this in on of the threads going on the "issue" :lol: I can't even find it now :bonk:
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Post by jeff024 »

yeah Reed I just read your reply in another post :)
Oh well its in both now

Its in the thread ( New tires on my rig )
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Post by 04crewvt »

I figured the more help the merrierImage
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Post by F9K9 »

04crewvt wrote:I figured the more help the merrierImage
Just a good thing I didn't have a mod (crisis) going on or else I'd be yelping to save one of my drowning ducks :lol:

This beats looking out the window any whining about the snow :lmao:
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Post by 04crewvt »

I just save my Mod crisis up for one big PITA, CV boot & broken stud, both just to get spacers and larger tires on while also getting in a lube job and trying to find the elusive last zerk now buried under a ton of CV boot grease. How many others can I find for the weekend. Oh wait ! I had to remember to unprogram the HPPIII tuning before I send the truck in for work and the dash speaker started buzzing yesterday on the way home. Guess I will have a laundry list for them when I take it in. AS for snow we haven't had enough all winter for one good snowstorm to play in.
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Post by F9K9 »

04crewvt wrote:I just save my Mod crisis up for one big PITA, CV boot & broken stud, both just to get spacers and larger tires on while also getting in a lube job and trying to find the elusive last zerk now buried under a ton of CV boot grease. How many others can I find for the weekend. Oh wait ! I had to remember to unprogram the HPPIII tuning before I send the truck in for work and the dash speaker started buzzing yesterday on the way home. Guess I will have a laundry list for them when I take it in. AS for snow we haven't had enough all winter for one good snowstorm to play in.


I have had 2 inner CV boots come loose and there are others that have had that 10x over. If you do decide to go the large hose clamp route don't do it the hard way like me. Lift that side at the lower a arm so that you don't have the extreme angle in your axles when you do when you lift from the frame. Much easier slipping the boot back on the front axle :D To be safe have your frame supported but, raise that side up with a jack. :wink:
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Post by 04crewvt »

The stud is out! Thanks for the pointers on getting the rotor off it was just a variation on the ones I have done before. The large c-clamp to push the pistons back worked great, caliper popped right off and the caliper assembly came right off once I got the bolts loose. I actually was able to get the broken stud out without that step but as long as I had the thing apart I figured I would check the back side of the rotor and clean it up it also gives me a little more room to get the new stud in and seated. Unfortunatly I have to wait until tomorrow to pick up a new stud since the local auto parts stores are not open on Sundays and the closed chain store is 30 miles from here too much gas money in my big truck for a $2.00 part especially with the fact that the parts store is only 1 mile from where I work. I will just leave everything apart and on the jackstand for tonight and get the part tommorow evening. If all goes well I can get it back together tomorrow evening in half an hour or so. On the up side I had to turn the wheel all the way to the right to get the bolts of and with the other three wheels on the ground there was no rubbing on the fender of the passenger side with the new tire and spacer combo. I had about 1.5" clearance at the closest point. I still might have to do a little trimming or hammering but things look good right now. I almost wish that I didn't want the stealership to fix the CV boot but I really do not have the money to do it myself right now and I might as well squeeze as much out of them as I can before the warranty is up.
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Post by HenryJ »

Would someone ask him this question:
HenryJ wrote:...Check all the studs for signs of over torquing. Cracking, stretching or messed up threads would be indicators. I am worried that if one stud broke, others may not be far behind. There has to be a reason that stud broke. Are the others OK?

I would not install any of the spacers until after a closer inspection of all of your wheel studs. Breaking a wheel stud is not something that should happen unless they were damaged.
He appears to be ignoring me. ;)

BTW> A hose clamp fix for that boot is in the same price range as that wheel stud.

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Post by 04crewvt »

Sorry HenryJ, I wasn't ignoring you must have missed that post Image
I checked the other ones this morning and they look ok. I would say it is my fault I probably over torqued them when I put them on last. I was just using a ratchet wrench. I just ordered a torque wrench so this shouldn't be an issue again. I am one of these gorillas that was mentioned in another post that could break a stud off with a short ratchet. I try to be good but this time I must have been a bit overenthusiasticImage I tend to buy replacement bolts that are grade 8 so I don't brake anything more than once and tools with a lifetime warranty.Image
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Post by HenryJ »

Thanks, I feel better about it now. Sounds like that torque wrench will be a good investment. Until then use a smaller ratchet for your installations. Maybe a 1/4" drive set would be in order for your over exuberance :lol:

Be safe.

You should be OK with those spacers and the 30's. I ran around with front spacers and 31's for a while. There was some rubbing, but I was able to get by.

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Post by 04crewvt »

Got the new stud installed tonight. Less than half an hour to install and put everything back together. I bought a spare and a spare lug nut at the same time and will just add them to my tool kit in case of another breaking off at a less convienient time. Now that I know how, it should be less than a hours work even if I am at the side of the road somewhere. :D
Now I will just have to get it in for the CV boot and I should be all set.
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Post by ZIGGY K »

Is the hose clamp on the cv boot a temp. fix or is it something that will last ?
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Post by HenryJ »

My old S-10 has been running them for a decade.

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Post by 04crewvt »

ARRRGGGGHHHH!!!!

So I ran the truck for a week with the new tires and spacers, CV boot is still not fixed, when I went to get the new wheel stud my full size truck blew out its exhaust in the Advance Auto parking lot. I had no choice but to run the crew for the week until I could fix the other truck so I had something to drive to work.
On Thursday I took off in the crew and within a couple of miles the front started shaking I limped it home and took the full size to work hoping no cops pulled me over for a noise violation. I dropped it off near where I work and had them call me when the knew what it needed and how much it would cost. Things you don't want to here when they call back"well the good news is that the manifolds are still good the bad news is that everything after that is shot" so I bite the bullet and drop $688 on the exhaust and figure it will keep me going until I figure out what is wrong with the crew.
I start the morning bright and early this morning remove HPPIII tuning and start taking off oversize tires and spacers before letting the truck go in for servicing and what do I find TWO more studs snapped on the same wheel as before. The only reason I had not lost them is they were trapped in behind the spacer and the wheel!!
So now I have to have it towed to the dealer because I want them to inspect the studs and see if there is anything else going on here.
On the up side I got my torque wrench in and installed the snow tires back on the truck for the dealers visit. Boy 100 ft/lbs of torque is not nearly as much as I thought it would be. I am betting that I had torqued the studs to at least 125 or more with the ratchet wrench and I am hoping that was the problem with the studs.
Only thing that went right today was that I got my front Hidden Hitch installed, using the torque wrench to set the bolts like it called for. Got it for $82 shipped from Stylin Concepts as a closeout last one in stock.
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Post by F9K9 »

I'm just 165 lbs and 100 lbs of torgue seems dangerously loose to me when you are on the handle end of a torque wrench :wink:
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Post by Walt »

f9k9 wrote:I'm just 165 lbs and 100 lbs of torgue seems dangerously loose to me when you are on the handle end of a torque wrench :wink:
I'm 245 pounds.... I feel the same way :lol:
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Post by 04crewvt »

Try my 340lbs 6'5"Image
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Post by Walt »

04crewvt wrote:Try my 340lbs 6'5"Image
W :lol: W!

You're a big boy aren't ya? :D
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Post by 04crewvt »

Yea try finding a 62 extra tall suit coat and have them stretch the sleeves to 39 inches
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Post by F9K9 »

Now, you understand why I had an imported 120+ lbs shepard as a partner and ended up a firearms instructor :wink:
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Post by 04crewvt »

yup- the dog keeps someone like me occupied while you try to shoot enough hole in me to do more than piss me off.Image
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Post by Walt »

04crewvt wrote:yup- the dog keeps someone like me occupied while you try to shoot enough hole in me to do more than piss me off.Image
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
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Post by F9K9 »

04crewvt wrote:yup- the dog keeps someone like me occupied while you try to shoot enough hole in me to do more than piss me off.Image


I didn't say it was foolproof :lol: All I know is that I never I never had a scuffle or had to fill out any AARs ,"after action reports", once I went K-9. I also admit there may have been an occasion or two that I purposely turned my back, when there was a very large field adjacent to me. hoping that someone that had caused me to be away from home all night holding onto the end of a tracking line while being dragged through briars might decide to run. I never had that satisfaction :wink:

I'm just glad I never ran across someone like you that was unafraid of dogs :pray:
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Post by 04crewvt »

I have a health respect for all dogs but rottweillers are the only ones I steer clear of. Got between house and barn where"Mommy" was and had two rotts set up on me I froze while thinking ok one I might fend off with lots of injuries on both sides but two no way, and here I am 50 yards from my 9mm locked in my truck. Called for "mommys help" I did.Image
At least I am one of the gentle giants out there. I have never been in trouble with the law, and have a great respect for those who are out there every day.
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Post by Walt »

I was attacked by a doberman once.... let's just say that I have a very healthy respect for dogs. Not something I ever want to happen again. I got stitches and the owners got a bill and a canine burial plot :(
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Post by F9K9 »

We better slide back over to the topic at hand :wink: 04crewvt, was your pacicifier HD? I can see why you have studs falling off now. Have problems keeping door handles on vehicles or homes?
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Post by Walt »

f9k9 wrote:We better slide back over to the topic at hand :wink: 04crewvt, was your pacicifier HD? I can see why you have studs falling off now. Have problems keeping door handles on vehicles or homes?


:roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao:
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Post by 04crewvt »

Don't know about the pacicfier but I guess it could be due to all the home grown beef and giant veggies we used to grow at home 40lb butternut squash, 2lb potatoes,fingerling carrots a foot long, always wondered if we should test for radiation in the garden. Image
I was 6' before 16 and haven't been under 180lbs since 10th grade. And yes a few doors have given way to my persuasive efforts both steel clad exterior and solid core interior.
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