Replacing wheel studs

Steve2003 · Post by **Steve2003** » Thu Mar 16, 2006 8:15 pm

Split topic-HJ

Ok, I got my new tires today and I ran into a problem

The shop that last did my alignment ruined all ten studs on my spacers

They had to be removed. So here's my question, The spacers I have came from completevalue and I was completely satisfied with them. While searching ebay I came across these spacers, are they the same as the completevalue spacers?
Thanks

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Mar 16, 2006 8:25 pm

Steve2003 wrote:... I ran into a problem ...The shop that last did my alignment ruined all ten studs on my spacers ...

Why not spend $10 and replace the studs?

The overall diameter looks good. I would be tempted to get some hubcentric if the cost is not too much more.

Steve2003 · Post by **Steve2003** » Thu Mar 16, 2006 8:58 pm

HenryJ wrote:Why not spend $10 and replace the studs?

That sounds like a much beter option. So can I pick up the studs at the local auto parts store? and what about having them replaced, who or how would I go about that?

BobbleSmitty · Post by **BobbleSmitty** » Thu Mar 16, 2006 9:01 pm

How did they ruin the studs???

Steve2003 · Post by **Steve2003** » Thu Mar 16, 2006 9:21 pm

According to the tire shop they over tightened the lug nuts with a impact wrench and didn't torque them. The alignment shop did a tire rotation when they did the alignment. Two of the lug nuts were siezed on the studs and they broke off and the other eight were stripped and the lug nuts wouldn't tighten back up.

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Mar 17, 2006 5:07 am

Steve2003 wrote:... can I pick up the studs at the local auto parts store? and what about having them replaced, who or how would I go about that?

Yes the parts store will have the wheel studs. They should run around a buck a piece.
A press is the best way to install them, however you can do the job yourself.

Use a punch and BFH to knock the broken studs out and the damaged ones should pop out with a swift hit. If you are going to install them yourself there are a couple methods that will work.

#1 would be a press. Either Arbor or hydraulic. Align the serrations somewhat and press them in to the shoulder.

#2 You can lay your spare tire face down. Place the spacer on it and drive the wheel studs down using a soft punch. Brass would be desirable. You will have to take some measurements to determine that they fully seat. You are just using the wheel as a table with holes in it. since I am guessing that your table doesn't have the proper hole spacing let alone the holes for the studs

#3 Is primarily used when installing a stud on the vehicle. You can stack loose fitting washers over the stud to be pulled into place. Lubricate the washers and stud. Use a spare lugnut threaded on backward and a wrench to pull the stud into the hub. The stack of washers serve as a bearing and spread the load. By stacking them you move the stressed area of threads out beyond where the lugnut would normally reside.

One of the three methods will work for you. As a last resort, any repair shop should be able to replace them for you. It is not rocket science as you can now see.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Fri Mar 17, 2006 5:13 am

I think I'd find a different shop to do my work. Any decent shop would have offered to make good their damage and educated or relieved the original impact wrench operator.

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Mar 17, 2006 5:24 am

f9k9 wrote:I think I'd find a different shop to do my work....

Agreed. That can be a tough one though. It is not the fault of the shop removing the wheels even though the studs break and strip during removal. They did not overtorque them.
It may have been months since the offender touched them and the damage was done. It is better to catch the culprit in the act.

Give them heck for not doing their job properly. Watch them as they work. Make sure they start the nuts by hand, gently run them down, and torque them correctly.

Another learning experience. Cheaper than a college education.

barch97 · Post by **barch97** » Fri Mar 17, 2006 6:48 am

I recall there being a sign posted behind the counter in almost every shop I have ever entered that very clearly states:

Service Rates $40 per hour
If you watch $50 per hour
If you help $75 per hour

jeff024 · Post by **jeff024** » Fri Mar 17, 2006 11:00 am

I just replaced all five on my pass side and it wasnt hard at all

Steve2003 · Post by **Steve2003** » Fri Mar 17, 2006 5:49 pm

Thanks Hj,

Jeff which method did you use to replace your studs?

Edit: bad spelling

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Mar 17, 2006 5:52 pm

barch97 wrote:...
Service Rates $40 per hour
If you watch $50 per hour
If you help $75 per hour

...Doing it yourself- PRICELE$$

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Fri Mar 17, 2006 9:48 pm

True, but dag, no laughing matter when it happens to yourself. Yea, it's no biggy, I just replaced a bunch myself. Pound them out and put the new ones in.

jeff024 · Post by **jeff024** » Sat Mar 18, 2006 12:13 am

Steve2003 wrote:Thanks Hj,

Jeff which method did you use to replace your studs?

Edit: bad spelling

I got the studs at advanced auto
I had to replace the stock studs not the 1s on the spacers but I knocked the bad studs out with a BFH then lined the new 1s up best I could then used old lug nuts and an impact untill they were tight seems to be just fine and the wheel has no wobble

snowsurfer · Post by **snowsurfer** » Sat Mar 18, 2006 10:20 am

I had to replace mine when someone tried to steal my wheels and couldn't get the locks off, screwed up the threads....
Take the caliper off and hang it , put a small block of wood so the brakes don't depress, spin the hub so the stud head can clear the dust plate, lube it, pound out the old stud. Put new stud in, use open end lug nuts and run them down all the way until the stud sets all the way through and you're done.

Steve2003 · Post by **Steve2003** » Sat Mar 18, 2006 11:30 am

What,s the correct size stud I need for the wheel spacers? I know they are 12mm but what about the length or are they a standerd size?

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Mar 18, 2006 12:00 pm

Steve2003 wrote:What,s the correct size stud I need for the wheel spacers? I know they are 12mm but what about the length or are they a standerd size?

Just take an old one in with you. I think you will find the OEM replacement studs for a S-10 will be a perfect match.

Steve2003 · Post by **Steve2003** » Sat Mar 18, 2006 12:06 pm

Ok, that's what I was thinking. Thanks for the quick reply.

Steve2003 · Post by **Steve2003** » Sat Mar 18, 2006 12:29 pm

I got the old studs off, that was easy. When I put the new studs in do I line them up flush with the surface of the spacer?

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Mar 18, 2006 12:43 pm

Seat them fully. This may require a few washers on the face if the unthreaded portion of the stud comes through a little and you are using a nut to pull them into place.
I'd soft punch them from the back side if you do not have a press. That way you do not stress the threads or mounting surface.

Steve2003 · Post by **Steve2003** » Sat Mar 18, 2006 1:58 pm

We don't have Advance auto parts here. I tried autozone,Kragen and Napa with no luck. The studs are not the same as the application for our trucks. Napa was the most helpful they even got their caliper and tried to find the right studs.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Mar 18, 2006 2:10 pm

Can you take a picture of the stud? Where did they come from?
The AIM spacers and Dwight Long's (completevalue) spacers use pretty standard studs. I am sure you could contact either of them for replacement studs.

We have a bearing and hydraulic shop here that carries a wide selection of studs. If they don't have it they can get it.

The studs that I replaced in the spacers for 2bunik were the standard S-10 wheel studs.

Worst case, send me a used stud and I'll find some for you.

Steve2003 · Post by **Steve2003** » Sat Mar 18, 2006 3:02 pm

I'm prety sure I got them from completevalue. I sent him a email to see if he had the studs or if he new where to get them. If he can't help me I will take you up on that offer and send you one of the studs.

Thanks

jeff024 · Post by **jeff024** » Sun Mar 19, 2006 5:38 am

steve how many do you need I have 10 that were sent to me from the place that I got mine from you cane have all 10 but I will part with a few if you can wait a I will ship you a few

Steve2003 · Post by **Steve2003** » Sun Mar 19, 2006 6:31 am

I need eight of them, only two look to be still useable. Jeff where did you get yours from?

EDIT: I have a couple pictures of the studs. On the top of the head of the stud there is the letter U and the number 176

jeff024 · Post by **jeff024** » Sun Mar 19, 2006 2:36 pm

the place that I got the spacers from. mine came with the wrong size studs a size larger and I called them and they sent me the right studs I just never put them in just went and got a larger lug nut

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Mar 19, 2006 2:50 pm

Jeff, Do those look like the studs that you have?
If they do you guys need to...make a deal

jeff024 · Post by **jeff024** » Sun Mar 19, 2006 3:03 pm

mine are for a 1 1/4 spacers

they measure 1 7/8in measure yours steve but dont measure the tip where there is no thread

I got my spacers on ebay from this place
EZ-ACCESSORY
I think there in Cali might try gettin ahold of them you might be able to get them faster from them

ezaccessory@yahoo.com

Steve2003 · Post by **Steve2003** » Sun Mar 19, 2006 4:01 pm

My spacers are 1 1/4 Hub centric.

The studs measure 2 1/16 to where the threads stop, they look really close but I think mine are a little longer.

Jeff are yours 12mm? Can you count the threads? mine have 18 threads. I guess yours will work if they are the same circumference. That was the problem I had when Napa was trying to help me, they had three different 12mm x 1.5 studs but the circumference was not correct, they used a caliper to measure theirs compared to mine.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Mar 19, 2006 4:04 pm

Measure the diameter at the splines and compare. They are likely both 12mm x 1.50 pitch. Thread counts and length will not be of much help.

jeff024 · Post by **jeff024** » Sun Mar 19, 2006 4:04 pm

yes mine are 12mm they have 15 threads the size should work more than 3 threads stick out of the lug nut

Steve2003 · Post by **Steve2003** » Sun Mar 19, 2006 4:16 pm

Using a tape measure mine seem to be 9/16 in diameter at the spline.
I dont have a caliper.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Mar 19, 2006 4:19 pm

Steve2003 wrote:Using a tape measure mine seem to be 9/16 in diameter at the spline.
I dont have a caliper.

Measure the hole in the spacer that you removed the stud from. As long as the splines on the new studs will be tight enough they should work.

jeff024 · Post by **jeff024** » Sun Mar 19, 2006 4:23 pm

Steve2003 wrote:Using a tape measure mine seem to be 9/16 in diameter at the spline.
I dont have a caliper.

mine appear to be the same
I can ship them all to you and you can pay me if they work and if they dont you can ship them back

Steve2003 · Post by **Steve2003** » Sun Mar 19, 2006 4:26 pm

HenryJ wrote:
Steve2003 wrote:Using a tape measure mine seem to be 9/16 in diameter at the spline.
I dont have a caliper.
Measure the hole in the spacer that you removed the stud from. As long as the splines on the new studs will be tight enough they should work.

Good idea

9/16
Jeff would you happen to have a part#?

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Mar 19, 2006 4:26 pm

You guys could measure the circumference and compare. Wrap a piece of paper around the splined portion and mark the circumference. Then lay it out and measure the length.

Steve2003 · Post by **Steve2003** » Sun Mar 19, 2006 4:32 pm

Another good idea

between 3 1/16 and 3 1/8

jeff024 · Post by **jeff024** » Sun Mar 19, 2006 4:33 pm

Steve2003 wrote:
HenryJ wrote:
Steve2003 wrote:Using a tape measure mine seem to be 9/16 in diameter at the spline.
I dont have a caliper.
Measure the hole in the spacer that you removed the stud from. As long as the splines on the new studs will be tight enough they should work.
Good idea 9/16
Jeff would you happen to have a part#?

only thing on the top of mine is
10.9 and the letter B

Steve2003 · Post by **Steve2003** » Sun Mar 19, 2006 4:37 pm

Jeff can you take those measurements?

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Mar 19, 2006 4:41 pm

jeff024 wrote:... on the top of mine is
10.9 and the letter B

10.9 should be the hardness

jeff024 · Post by **jeff024** » Sun Mar 19, 2006 4:45 pm

I got exactly 2in
you are only taking a measurement at the (splines) the little ridges arent you steve or are mine just that much smaller

Steve2003 · Post by **Steve2003** » Sun Mar 19, 2006 4:52 pm

Shoot I'm doing to many things at once, I measured the wrong side of the paper

1 3/4

yours are to big.

jeff024 · Post by **jeff024** » Sun Mar 19, 2006 4:56 pm

lmao this is crazy if you want shoot me a pM with your address and I will ship them to you and like I said if they work you can pay me for them and if they wont just ship them back HJ said there worth $1 a piece so I guess that and whatever shipping is.or we can wait and you contact the place I posted awhile ago and see if there close to you its up to you.

jeff024 · Post by **jeff024** » Sun Mar 19, 2006 5:00 pm

Steve2003 wrote:Shoot I'm doing to many things at once yours is to big.

like I havent heard that before :hehe:

(edited steves quote)

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Mar 19, 2006 5:04 pm

Steve, This may be the size you have Moser Engineering #8390 12 mm x 1 3/4" .580" knurl $17.50/set of 10

Steve2003 · Post by **Steve2003** » Sun Mar 19, 2006 5:06 pm

I don't think yours will work Jeff, besides I need eight studs and would just rather replace all ten. Thanks though! by the way what does lmao stand for?

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Mar 19, 2006 5:08 pm

Steve2003 wrote:...what does lmao stand for?

Laugh My A** Off

I think Jeff needs to re-measure. His measurement is rather long for the sizes listed. The knurled diameter is what we want. Not the head. If anything a smaller diameter would be a bit more common.

jeff024 · Post by **jeff024** » Sun Mar 19, 2006 5:11 pm

lmao (laughing my A** off)
because the three of us are setting here waiting for the next person to reply cant even tell ya how many time I hit refresh to see if there was a new post

sorry I couldnt be of help steve hopefully those are the 1s you need that HJ just posted above good luck

Steve2003 · Post by **Steve2003** » Sun Mar 19, 2006 5:26 pm

Hj, how about I send you one of the studs and if you think the Moser Engineering ones will work then I can order them.

Thanks for all the help!

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Mar 19, 2006 5:28 pm

Steve2003 wrote:Hj, how about I send you one of the studs and if you think the Moser Engineering ones will work then I can order them.

Sounds good to me! I may even be able to hook you up with the correct parts at your local NAPA.

Steve2003 · Post by **Steve2003** » Sun Mar 19, 2006 7:50 pm

Well OK then! Napa's price was about $1.50 a stud, either way I will be saving at least $50.00 and the learning experience is well umm, I guess umm! You guys sure do have a way of getting me to work on my truck myself

Actually once I start doing it It's prety cool.

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Mar 28, 2006 8:03 pm

For those who may be following along here...Steve, you need to find a shop that handles Dorman studs. As near as I can tell the one that matches should be # 610-376

No one here had them in stock to compare for sure. They run $1.50 each.

Steve2003 · Post by **Steve2003** » Thu Mar 30, 2006 6:22 pm

HJ

What places are you looking at for them that say they are out of stock? I've been checking with speciality wheel shops and they've been telling me to check automotive part stores, NAPA, Kragen, Autozone etc. Someone told me to check a place called Inland Wheel & Tire. I went there and they told me they don't deal with wheel studs. As I was walking out the door the guy there, Justin, remembered my truck because I bought my wheels from them and said, "hey wait a minute" and told me about a Fab shop in Grand Terrace Calif. Justin told me they have every kind of wheel spacer and wheel studs that are made. He said just grab my spacers/adapters and take them over there and he guaranteed they would find studs and press them in for me. I haven't been able to get off work early enough this week so I am going to try Saturday. I have a funny feeling that this place makes wheel adapters.

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Mar 30, 2006 7:16 pm

Steve2003 wrote:What places are you looking at for them that say they are out of stock?

We have a bearing and hydraulic shop that stocks quite a few wheel studs. Their inventory is dwindling though since the minimum order is now well beyond what their entire inventory consists of. The Auto parts store next door stocks some Dorman hardware, but not much. They assured me that they could have them next day or sooner from Boise though.
NAPA does not list them. Their selection is very limited. Mostly popular OEM studs.
I did not search for very long. If I needed them, I would order them from the first auto parts store that I mentioned, and still can if you need them.
This town is really frustrating. It has anything you want if you can wait for them to get it in for you. Basically a mail order town.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Thu Mar 30, 2006 7:47 pm

Steve2003 wrote:I'm prety sure I got them from completevalue. I sent him a email to see if he had the studs or if he new where to get them.

I take it they never e-mailed you back?

I'm surprised that you are having such a hard time finding the right studs.

I can think of several places nearby that sell a huge assortment of wheel studs like Pep Boys, Bert Williams, and TEM. All 3 of these stores have a large selection of wheel studs.

Steve

Steve2003 · Post by **Steve2003** » Thu Mar 30, 2006 8:09 pm

killian96ss wrote:I take it they never e-mailed you back?

Your right they never did

killian96ss wrote:I can think of several places nearby that sell a huge assortment of wheel studs like Pep Boys

I have not checked there but I don't see them being much help either. They're just like the rest of the dumb A$$ auto parts stores. If you don't have a vehicle or a part number that they can look on the computer they are lost

, but I'll give it a shot.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Thu Mar 30, 2006 8:55 pm

Steve2003 wrote:They're just like the rest of the dumb A$$ auto parts stores. If you don't have a vehicle or a part number that they can look on the computer they are lost , but I'll give it a shot.

The 3 places I listed have steel slide out bins where you can search for the right stud or part # yourself.

I never rely on the idiots who claim to be parts specialists.

Steve

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Mar 30, 2006 9:05 pm

That Dorman wheel stud is a bit unusual in that the shoulder comes up higher than most and is a larger diameter. The closest NAPA had was a clip head M12-1.5 13.90mm 49mm 15mm #641-1634

That Dorman number should be a better match though (610-376)
They are not impossible to get. Like I said , I could have them in a day, so others should be able to do so as well.

Steve2003 · Post by **Steve2003** » Sat Apr 01, 2006 2:59 pm

HenryJ wrote:For those who may be following along here...Steve, you need to find a shop that handles Dorman studs. As near as I can tell the one that matches should be # 610-376

No one here had them in stock to compare for sure. They run $1.50 each.

Hj, you nailed it! Dorman # 610-376 is almost a excact fit about a P hair off. I took one stud and one adapter and the very important part # to my local Napa and they matched them up

They only had 5 in stock but will have the other 5 monday.

Thanks for your reaserch

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Apr 01, 2006 3:07 pm

Woo Hoo!
Glad it all worked out for you!

Do you want me to mail that stud back to you, or archive it?

Steve2003 · Post by **Steve2003** » Sat Apr 01, 2006 3:12 pm

Archive it!

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Apr 01, 2006 3:32 pm

Will do!

Steve2003 · Post by **Steve2003** » Sat Apr 01, 2006 4:39 pm

One adapter done.
Tools used

The spare

Worked out really well

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Apr 01, 2006 4:53 pm

BFH, improvised punch and makeshift anvil...fantastic job!
You are doing a great job

and saving enough that you better take the loved ones out to dinner with the savings

Steve2003 · Post by **Steve2003** » Wed Apr 05, 2006 3:46 pm

I got the other 5 studs monday and installed them into the wheel adapters and put the wheel adapters on my truck. It all worked out really well

Anywho! Dwight Long from completevalue responded to my email today.

Dwight Long wrote:Best I could do is sell you a new pair of spacers for half price + $10 shipping. That's probably about as cheap as replacement studs anyway. Let me know what thickness you need and I'll send you an invoice.
thanks

He was wrong about the cost of the studs but a nice offer

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Apr 05, 2006 4:19 pm

Hmmm, anybody need a set of spacers?

Steve2003 · Post by **Steve2003** » Wed Apr 05, 2006 4:32 pm

HenryJ wrote:Hmmm, anybody need a set of spacers?

That's what I was thinking

Half price but double shipping charges. It would still be a good deal! Hurry now anyone, while the deal is on the table

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Wed Apr 05, 2006 6:00 pm

3 inch rears if, no one has pmed you already

Steve2003 · Post by **Steve2003** » Wed Apr 05, 2006 6:13 pm

f9k9 wrote:3 inch rears if, no one has pmed you already

Ok, Reed I sent him a email and told him to send me a invoice for 3 inch wheel adapters/spacers I will let you know when he gets back to me.

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Apr 05, 2006 6:16 pm

f9k9 wrote:3 inch rears if, no one has pmed you already

Are you sure? That puts you really out there. You have wheels with 4 3/4" rearspacing. Add the 3" spacers and you're down to 1 3/4" rear spacing.

I am running 3" spacers on 6" rear spaced wheels. That puts me at 3" rear spacing.

No spacers on the front , and 2" spacers on the rear would be a pretty good match.
You may know exactly what you are wanting. If you're adding the 1 1/4" spacers to the front and 3" to the rear with the wheels you have you will be wide. That may be what you are after. Just want to make sure your eyes are wide open. There may be clearance issues?

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Wed Apr 05, 2006 6:27 pm

HenryJ wrote:
f9k9 wrote:3 inch rears if, no one has pmed you already
Are you sure? That puts you really out there. You have wheels with 4 3/4" rearspacing. Add the 3" spacers and you're down to 1 3/4" rear spacing.

I am running 3" spacers on 6" rear spaced wheels. That puts me at 3" rear spacing.

No spacers on the front , and 2" spacers on the rear would be a pretty good match.
You may know exactly what you are wanting. If you're adding the 1 1/4" spacers to the front and 3" to the rear with the wheels you have you will be wide. That may be what you are after. Just want to make sure your eyes are wide open. There may be clearance issues?

Have 2 " on rears now and they look lost. The 1.25" on front is even with flares. Can post photos tomorrow. I think you have my wheels confused with cragars but, maybe not. I thought I had 5" backspacing.

Anyway, Steve was nice enough to email the seller already and I guess, I'll just see what looks best. I can always resell them with Steve having first dibs.

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Apr 05, 2006 6:41 pm

f9k9 wrote:...Have 2 " on rears now and they look lost.

Just making sure. We all need to take care of our elderly forgetful members

(hopefully someone is looking out for me

)

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Wed Apr 05, 2006 6:58 pm

HenryJ wrote:
f9k9 wrote:...Have 2 " on rears now and they look lost.

Just making sure. We all need to take care of our elderly forgetful members
(hopefully someone is looking out for me )

Someone needs to look out for us both

Other than finishing touches on the flares, sliders, restoring my e-brake, and solving my starting problems, I was concerned about mod withdrawl complications.

BTW, I can only find your BFGs at summit but, I may be searching incorrectly. Mrs Hoff has already predicted a jorney for me to get the tires not unlike the hood

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Apr 05, 2006 7:09 pm

I picked up my spare BFG locally from a dealer. It has a full road hazard warranty. Now if I can just remember which one that was

In a five tire rotation, it is kind of like a shell game

Summit's price is hard to beat. Mounting a dismounting my own saves quite a bit.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Thu Apr 06, 2006 1:13 am

HenryJ wrote:................. Mounting a dismounting my own saves quite a bit.

OK, we learned you could sew when you made the bed cover.

Do you have a spin balancer laying around too?