New wheels need help
Moderator: F9K9
New wheels need help
I just ordered some new black steel wheels and they are 15X8 with 4 inches of backspacing and -12.00mm offset. I am running 31 x 10.5 x 15 Kumho mud tires on the new wheels. Currently on my truck I have the stock wheels and tires with 2 inch rear spacers and 1.25 inch front spacers. I have the 2 in body lift shackles and torsion crank. What is the best thing to do with my new wheels to keep the same look I have now with my old wheels. In terms of not sticking out to far and rubbing as little as possible. I am trying to see if I need any othr kind of spacers, or if i can just put the front spacers on the rear and nothing on the front. Thanks for the help.
Re: New wheels need help
Hate to tell you this man, but you're going to rub on the from like a mofo. You need Skidz cutout flares. I'm running the same black 15x8 wheels with 4" BS and 31x10.5x15's. They rubbed pretty badly until I got the flares. Also, on the spacers, take the front spacer off, but leave the 2" spacers on the rear. It may seem like a big difference, but it helps the rear wheel line up better with the fender bulge. That is how I'm running now, no spacers on the from, and 2"s on the rear with my black wheels.D68enny wrote:I just ordered some new black steel wheels and they are 15X8 with 4 inches of backspacing and -12.00mm offset. I am running 31 x 10.5 x 15 Kumho mud tires on the new wheels. Currently on my truck I have the stock wheels and tires with 2 inch rear spacers and 1.25 inch front spacers. I have the 2 in body lift shackles and torsion crank. What is the best thing to do with my new wheels to keep the same look I have now with my old wheels. In terms of not sticking out to far and rubbing as little as possible. I am trying to see if I need any othr kind of spacers, or if i can just put the front spacers on the rear and nothing on the front. Thanks for the help.
--Walt
2001 S-10 CrewCab - Retired...
2001 S-10 CrewCab - Retired...
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Definitelyjeff024 wrote:I think i would go 1 1/4s on the rear and nothing on the front if your not running flares
And don't even think about hitting a driveway at much of an angle. I learned the hard way and I was warnedwamason wrote: Hate to tell you this man, but you're going to rub on the from like a mofo.......
[size=75][b]"For those who have fought for it, [i][color=red]FR[/color][color=white]EE[/color][color=blue]DOM[/color][/i] has a taste that the protected will never know."
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So you mean on the inside part of the wheel well? Can trimming and hammering be done to fix this and have it still look ok? I just spent my last bit of cash on a Hypertech. I thought the wheels would clear so I spent what was left of my state tax return to fix the tire size change with a Hypertech. Damn this rubbing. Hopefully my hammer and some kind of tin snips will do the trick. Do the S10's have the factory flares that sort of meet up with the bumber and the side moldings on the truck? I have a GMC. It is hard to explain clearly, but that lower piece that starts at the front bumber goes into the front flare and then down the lower part of the truck and then into the rear flare? I would go flareless and make some cuts, but I still have all this molding around that would stick out with the flares missing. What to do.
They'll rub on the rear side of the wheel well at the bottom and at the bottom right corner of the wheel opening as you're looking at the driver's side front wheel, bottom left for passenger side front wheel. There's really no amount of hammering that will get the fender out of the way enough to not rub at all. If you take it REAL easy when turning and hitting a bump, it may not rub, but I'm talking barely creeping over the bumps. Easiest way is to get the cutout flares.D68enny wrote:So you mean on the inside part of the wheel well? Can trimming and hammering be done to fix this and have it still look ok? I just spent my last bit of cash on a Hypertech. I thought the wheels would clear so I spent what was left of my state tax return to fix the tire size change with a Hypertech. Damn this rubbing. Hopefully my hammer and some kind of tin snips will do the trick. Do the S10's have the factory flares that sort of meet up with the bumber and the side moldings on the truck? I have a GMC. It is hard to explain clearly, but that lower piece that starts at the front bumber goes into the front flare and then down the lower part of the truck and then into the rear flare? I would go flareless and make some cuts, but I still have all this molding around that would stick out with the flares missing. What to do.
[size=75]Mark
[b][i][color=red]2004 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 Quad Cab[/color][/i][/b]
[b][color=blue]"There are no stupid questions, just stupid people."[/color][/b][/size]
[b][i][color=red]2004 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 Quad Cab[/color][/i][/b]
[b][color=blue]"There are no stupid questions, just stupid people."[/color][/b][/size]
You could do the fender mods alone if desired. That's what I did after I got the Superlift, then put the old flares back on till I scraped up the cash to get the cutouts. The 33's still rubbed on the lower edges of the flares when fully loaded, but was serviceable if I was careful.
Pics with fender mods and ZR5 flares, before rear spacers:
Compare these to the after pic with the cutouts + spacers, and you'll see why I said F@#% it & lived on Ramen noodles for a couple weeks
Pics with fender mods and ZR5 flares, before rear spacers:
Compare these to the after pic with the cutouts + spacers, and you'll see why I said F@#% it & lived on Ramen noodles for a couple weeks
[size=75]2003 ZR5, 6" Superlift, cut out flares, step rails, 1.5" rear spacers, 15x8 Pro Comp 1079 wheels w/ 3.75" BS, 33/12.50-15 BFG AT-KO tires[/size]
Your truck looks great. The flares make it look so much better. Did you do the fender mods just like the directions on the modification page? I was thinking I will just do the fronts for now and wait a while until my wife cools down from buying the wheels and tires and then get the flares. Thanks for the info.
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Oh gawd, here comes the image Police
You can do the "cutting" per HJ's Skidz instructions and wait on the flares. BTW......I stash my future mod material at work and squeeze it in when she isn't looking. A bonus is a lot of shipping is cheaper at a business address.
You can do the "cutting" per HJ's Skidz instructions and wait on the flares. BTW......I stash my future mod material at work and squeeze it in when she isn't looking. A bonus is a lot of shipping is cheaper at a business address.
Last edited by F9K9 on Tue Mar 14, 2006 8:41 pm, edited 1 time in total.
[size=75][b]"For those who have fought for it, [i][color=red]FR[/color][color=white]EE[/color][color=blue]DOM[/color][/i] has a taste that the protected will never know."
[url=http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=73349]GUIDE TO SEARCHING. [i] (Some of the forum software is different but, it has helped me a lot.)[/i][/url][/b]
[b]"Those who don't know history are destined to repeat it." Edmund Burke[/b][/size]
[url=http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=73349]GUIDE TO SEARCHING. [i] (Some of the forum software is different but, it has helped me a lot.)[/i][/url][/b]
[b]"Those who don't know history are destined to repeat it." Edmund Burke[/b][/size]
I may have to do the work shipping thing. I am always hauling ass home to see if something was delivered, and to keep my wife from seeing it first. It sucks when something takes like 2 extra weeks to be delivered.
Hey Steve2003,
Where did you get your light bar? I have been looking around for an ORI, but can't find one anywhere except from their site and none of the links work on their site. I was trying to find one from one of the places that has free shipping.
Hey Steve2003,
Where did you get your light bar? I have been looking around for an ORI, but can't find one anywhere except from their site and none of the links work on their site. I was trying to find one from one of the places that has free shipping.
Don't spend to much and start saving up for some balljoints and wheel bearings, those 4" BS rims will murder front end components. I put MOOG balljoints and new wheel bearings on every year, and not because I want to.D68enny wrote:I may have to do the work shipping thing. I am always hauling ass home to see if something was delivered, and to keep my wife from seeing it first. It sucks when something takes like 2 extra weeks to be delivered.
[size=75][b]1991 GMC Sonoma Extended Cb[/b] - 4.3L Automatic, 2" BL, 31" BFG's.
[b]1992 Chevy T-10 Reg Cab[/b] - 4.3L 5spd, 3" Bl, 31" Mud Tires. Hooker long tube headers and true duals.
[b]1999 Oldsmobile Bravada[/b] - Wifes truck, all stock.[/size]
[b]1992 Chevy T-10 Reg Cab[/b] - 4.3L 5spd, 3" Bl, 31" Mud Tires. Hooker long tube headers and true duals.
[b]1999 Oldsmobile Bravada[/b] - Wifes truck, all stock.[/size]
ORW Give them a callD68enny wrote:
Hey Steve2003,
Where did you get your light bar? I have been looking around for an ORI, but can't find one anywhere except from their site and none of the links work on their site. I was trying to find one from one of the places that has free shipping.
Last edited by Steve2003 on Thu Mar 30, 2006 5:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.
[size=75][color=blue]2003 S-10 crew cab[/color][/size]
[size=75][color=red]6in superlift[/color][/size]
[size=75][color=red]6in superlift[/color][/size]
- killian96ss
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What are you doing to your truck that requires new wheel bearings and ball joints every year? I have 80k miles on my CC and still have the stock ball joints and wheel bearings which are still very tight. I have always wondered if the Mobil 1 synthetic grease that I use every 3000 miles is the reason my stock parts are holding up so well.Snoman002 wrote:I put MOOG balljoints and new wheel bearings on every year, and not because I want to.
Steve
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Im at 110000 miles with all stock front end partskillian96ss wrote:What are you doing to your truck that requires new wheel bearings and ball joints every year? I have 80k miles on my CC and still have the stock ball joints and wheel bearings which are still very tight. I have always wondered if the Mobil 1 synthetic grease that I use every 3000 miles is the reason my stock parts are holding up so well.Snoman002 wrote:I put MOOG balljoints and new wheel bearings on every year, and not because I want to.
Steve
[size=75]2004 S-10 CREW CAB {TRADED IN}
........ 2006 Nissan Frontier Crew Cab[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/jeff024/]PICS OF THE CREW CAB[/url][/size]
........ 2006 Nissan Frontier Crew Cab[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/jeff024/]PICS OF THE CREW CAB[/url][/size]
Maybe he's doing something like this.killian96ss wrote:What are you doing to your truck that requires new wheel bearings and ball joints every year?Snoman002 wrote:I put MOOG balljoints and new wheel bearings on every year, and not because I want to.
Steve
Or maybe he's doing this
[size=75][color=blue]2003 S-10 crew cab[/color][/size]
[size=75][color=red]6in superlift[/color][/size]
[size=75][color=red]6in superlift[/color][/size]
Nope, just street driving (granted, their was quite a bit of rough dirt road driving at that time). And I do regular maintance on the front end parts.Steve2003 wrote:Maybe he's doing something like this.
image
Or maybe he's doing this
image
Going to a zero offset rim places more than twice the force on the outside edge of the wheel bearing. Also, since the balljoints are mostly inline with the center of the tire the upper balljoint experiences very little sideways stress (except during cornering), placing the wheel out more greatly increase the sideways stress on the balljoint (cornering stress goes upward also. Cranking the t-bars so the upper arm is not level (outside lower) greatly increases the stress on the upper balljoint too.
[size=75][b]1991 GMC Sonoma Extended Cb[/b] - 4.3L Automatic, 2" BL, 31" BFG's.
[b]1992 Chevy T-10 Reg Cab[/b] - 4.3L 5spd, 3" Bl, 31" Mud Tires. Hooker long tube headers and true duals.
[b]1999 Oldsmobile Bravada[/b] - Wifes truck, all stock.[/size]
[b]1992 Chevy T-10 Reg Cab[/b] - 4.3L 5spd, 3" Bl, 31" Mud Tires. Hooker long tube headers and true duals.
[b]1999 Oldsmobile Bravada[/b] - Wifes truck, all stock.[/size]