Polyurethane front sway bar bushings

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Sun Nov 13, 2005 9:10 am

barch97 wrote:There's a noticable reduction in body roll while cornering at low speeds. Swaying at highway speed is notibly improved as well. Although it kind of accentuates how loose the front and is now.

This is where the greasable polyurethane front sway bar bushings and endlinks help. I got mine from Energy Suspension. These alone made a huge difference in handling.

Steve

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Nov 13, 2005 9:51 am

killian96ss wrote:...greasable polyurethane front sway bar bushings and endlinks ...from Energy Suspension.

Have any pictures , or links?

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Sun Nov 13, 2005 10:27 am

HenryJ wrote:
killian96ss wrote:...greasable polyurethane front sway bar bushings and endlinks ...from Energy Suspension.
Have any pictures , or links?

Here is a link to their site with part #'s for our trucks. Energy Suspension The part # for the kit (sway bar bushings & end links) is 3.5207G. I got mine from Summit, part # ENS-3-5207G for $30.

These bushings make a huge improvement in handling.

I will try to get some pics of the installed parts later tonight.

Steve

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Nov 13, 2005 10:43 am

Do you have a problem with the washer hitting the gussets on the lower endlink brackets?

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Sun Nov 13, 2005 11:02 am

HenryJ wrote:Do you have a problem with the washer hitting the gussets on the lower endlink brackets?

No, everything fits very nice! I really need to get some installed pics here so you can see how well they fit. The endlinks are polyurethane also, so you can snug them up real good and they will not move around at all. You would not believe how much better the Crew handled after this mod!

The stock bushings and endlinks really suck!

Steve

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Nov 13, 2005 11:17 am

My stock ones are being notched / chewed by the bracket.

Soft is not so bad for articulation. I have even been considering going without. I do worry about a panic direction change though.

An easy quick disconnect would be nice. I sure wish the bar was above the a-arm too.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Sun Nov 13, 2005 11:51 am

HenryJ wrote:Soft is not so bad for articulation. I have even been considering going without. I do worry about a panic direction change though. An easy quick disconnect would be nice.

The only down side to this mod is an increased bumpy ride on rough terrain, and a little less front articulation (not much though). Our stock IFS flexes pretty well with the sway bar disconnected. I want the best of both worlds (excellent handling on road & maximum articulation off road). The only way to do this would be to have a disconnectable front sway bar like the aftermarket kits for the Jeeps. or like the factory electronic disconnectable sway bar on the new Dodge Power Wagon.

Steve

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Dec 03, 2005 11:34 am

killian96ss wrote:............These bushings make a huge improvement in handling. I will try to get some pics of the installed parts later tonight.

Steve

Is it "tonight" yet?

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Sat Dec 03, 2005 6:51 pm

f9k9 wrote:
killian96ss wrote:............These bushings make a huge improvement in handling. I will try to get some pics of the installed parts later tonight.

Steve
Is it "tonight" yet?

You got me on that one. I still don't own a digital and when I went to borrow my friends, he could not find the memory card.

I will be at his house tomorrow, and will give it a second try.

Steve

1337vending · Post by **1337vending** » Sat Dec 03, 2005 8:55 pm

Need to order some of these for mine...I've already got the rear sway bar bushings from Energy susp...Thanks for the link!

duglasfur · Post by **duglasfur** » Thu Dec 08, 2005 12:05 pm

I somehow wore out my upper control arm bushings and replaced those along w/ the swaybar ends w/ Energy Suspension kits last week. AWESOME! Much better than I thought. I actually found the ride a little smoother, but that's prob b/c of my uppers being worn out.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Tue Dec 13, 2005 3:09 pm

Mine arrived today from Summit.

Is there any tricks to the installation? Nothing is under load is it? Approximate time required for the sway bar bushings only?

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Tue Dec 13, 2005 5:02 pm

f9k9 wrote:Mine arrived today from Summit.

Is there any tricks to the installation? Nothing is under load is it? Approximate time required for the sway bar bushings only?

Everything is very easy to install.

Nothing is under a load as long as the truck is on level ground. The sway bar bushings by themselves should only take 10-15 minutes to install. I also purchased some 5/16 grade 8 bolts and nuts to replace the factory bolts and to help strengthen the sway bar bushing mounting area. I bet pictures would really help.

I'm really lagging on this one.

I will try again tonight.

I'm serious this time.

Steve

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Tue Dec 13, 2005 5:22 pm

killian96ss wrote:.......... I also purchased some 5/16 grade 8 bolts and nuts to replace the factory bolts and to help strengthen the sway bar bushing mounting area.

Those would be the bolts that attach to the front frame mounting locations?

killian96ss wrote:...........I bet pictures would really help.

Since you brought it up...................Yes, it might!

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Tue Dec 13, 2005 6:52 pm

f9k9 wrote:
killian96ss wrote:.......... I also purchased some 5/16 grade 8 bolts and nuts to replace the factory bolts and to help strengthen the sway bar bushing mounting area.
Those would be the bolts that attach to the front frame mounting locations?

killian96ss wrote:...........I bet pictures would really help.
Since you brought it up...................Yes, it might!

Yes those are bolts that mount the sway bar bushings to the frame, and i was wrong about the size, they are 3/8x1" coarse thread grade 8 bolts. I also have a hardened washer on the top and bottom of each bolt along with 3/8 hardened nuts on the tops. When you have polyurethane bushings vs. rubber you are adding more stress to the mounting points and this is why I decided to upgrade the bolts as well.

Pics coming soon unless you beat me to it.

Parts added: (4) Grade 8, 3/8-16x1" Bolts (4) Grade 8, 3/8 Nuts (8) Hardened 3/8 Washers

Steve

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Wed Dec 14, 2005 4:11 am

Steve,

Good thinking, will pick those up at lunch. Thanks a bunch

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Wed Dec 14, 2005 3:34 pm

Picked them up at lunch and will post pics Saturday after the install unless a "miracle" happens and Steve beats me

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Thu Dec 15, 2005 6:52 pm

Well, these are the best pics I could get late night and with no flashlite.

Steve

SONOMA915 · Post by **SONOMA915** » Thu Dec 15, 2005 6:55 pm

How are these working out? Any improvements?

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Thu Dec 15, 2005 7:21 pm

SONOMA915 wrote:How are these working out? Any improvements?

My Crew handles a lot better with these bushings, and they allow our rather large sway to work much more effieciently.

Steve

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Dec 17, 2005 3:56 pm

killian96ss wrote:
f9k9 wrote:Mine arrived today from Summit.

Is there any tricks to the installation? Nothing is under load is it? Approximate time required for the sway bar bushings only?
Everything is very easy to install. Nothing is under a load as long as the truck is on level ground. The sway bar bushings by themselves should only take 10-15 minutes to install.

Steve

Well, the 15-20 minute install time turned into One Hundred and 20 minutes for me because I ASSUMED that the stock ones came off like the new ones would go on

The arrows point to additional "stuff" that needs to unscrew to remove

Pounding on the bolt with a BFH will not solve your problem.

The BOX

Stuff in the box (not all but, I wanted to point out the zerks with their protective covers). Now I have 13 zerks to hit when I do my lubrication.

The channels inside the bushing to allow the grease to move about.

The new bushings on frame

New bushings on the ends

My opinion of this mod? When I finished up with it, I came home and got cleaned up. I then went to the nearest "wet" terrority to get some beer. Over 50 miles was interstate (100 mi round trip). Sudden lane changes due to some smuck with his head up his Bu_t......SMOOTH and precise

On and off ramps were easy.

Time has past since I replaced my OEM shocks with the Bilstiens but, I believe that these bushings improved handling as much as the Bilstiens did

IMHO I have to put this mod at number four in the ones to first do.
1. Shocks
2. Intake
3. Exhaust
4. Polyurethane front sway bar bushings

The AALs are next

top_sgt · Post by **top_sgt** » Sat Dec 17, 2005 4:50 pm

f9k9.........i'm impressed!!! you did the bushings without me!!!!!

i'm going to get mine after the first of the year!!!!

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Dec 17, 2005 6:07 pm

top_sgt wrote:f9k9.........i'm impressed!!! you did the bushings without me!!!!!
i'm going to get mine after the first of the year!!!!

I was probably doing shocks and exhausts while you were.........nevermind

My big thrill is that this is my last mod without air tools. I just picked up my Christmas present, a 33 gal craftsman compressor with the 1/2" impact wrench, 3/8" rachet and air hammer

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Sat Dec 17, 2005 7:06 pm

f9k9 wrote:New bushings on the ends

You should be able to crank that end link nut down at least another 3/8" to fully snug it up. Polyurethane doesn't compress very well, so it may seem like its tight, but it will need to be much tighter than the stock rubber end links. Make sure you fully tighten the nuts with the wheels on the ground.

Steve

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Dec 17, 2005 7:13 pm

I figured that Steve. Was wanting them to settle and then crank 'em some more. It is worse one the passenger side but will hit them in the morning, Thanks!

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Sat Dec 17, 2005 7:30 pm

I was nervous tightening mine, because I hate stripping threads, but if you compare my pic with yours you will see the difference. I agree with wanting them to settle. I think I re-tightened mine about 2 times before I was finally happy with them. After tightening a few times you will definitely get to the point where they won't snug up anymore. When I did this mod on my SS I even upgraded the 5/16" grade 5 bolt with the same length 3/8" grade 8 bolt along with two 3/8" hardened nuts just to be sure they can't break or strip the threads. A 3/8" bolt just barely fits inside the steel endlink sleeve. When you consider the load that can be placed on this bolt when cornering hard, a stronger bolt is like having more insurance.

Steve

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Dec 17, 2005 7:43 pm

I knew you had a lot of experience in this particular mod through your other "hobbies"

That's why I immediately went after the hardware you recommended.

I was so beat from the BFH when I got it somewhat mounted and saw that it needed to settle in to crank those bushings down. I decided to reattack it the following morning.

I hope the pics helps someone because I expected it to just come apart and even left the front shield hanging down until I had to pull the bar and see WTF was going on

Definitely, a very good mod! I know that there are off-road downsides but, I am using it mainly as a DD

The handling improvement as a DD is awesome

GeorgesBlazah · Post by **GeorgesBlazah** » Tue Dec 20, 2005 2:11 pm

i looked on summit and it lists liek 3 diffrent sway bar sizes...how do i know which one is mine? ive got a clunkin coming from the front end i think my batterd and abused sway bar bushings may be the culprit. everything else is tight, wheelbearings, BJs, TR. torson bar mounts seem fine also.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Tue Dec 20, 2005 3:00 pm

GeorgesBlazah wrote:i looked on summit and it lists liek 3 diffrent sway bar sizes...how do i know which one is mine?

Do you have any calipers? If you don't have calipers, just take an adjustable wrench and open it enough to go over the sway bar, then tighten it and slide it off, and take your measurement. Do this in a couple of spots to get a good measurement.

Steve

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Tue Dec 20, 2005 4:05 pm

I continue to be extremely impressed with the handling improvements for a "DD", Awesome

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Tue Dec 20, 2005 4:12 pm

f9k9 wrote:I continue to be extrmely impressed with the handling improvements for a "DD", Awesome

I was shocked too that the handling was so much better and with such a cheap and simple mod.

Steve

GeorgesBlazah · Post by **GeorgesBlazah** » Tue Dec 20, 2005 8:06 pm

yeah i figure...the front dont flex much anyway, cant hurt to have better on road performance. besides maybe bny going offroad ill wear the bushings ni a lil bit

Steve2003 · Post by **Steve2003** » Mon Jan 09, 2006 7:01 pm

Killian96ss wrote:Parts added: (4) Grade 8, 3/8-16x1" Bolts (4) Grade 8, 3/8 Nuts (8 ) Hardened 3/8 Washers

What are the other two Grade 8, 3/8-16x1" Bolts for?
Steve

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Mon Jan 09, 2006 7:09 pm

To attach the two things that appear in the upper part of the photo. The ones you will take off will be pretty much worthless but, could be reused. Just makes the installation easier and stronger.

Steve2003 · Post by **Steve2003** » Mon Jan 09, 2006 7:14 pm

Ok I understand now! Is an alignment required after install?
Thanks Reed!

Steve

SONOMA915 · Post by **SONOMA915** » Mon Jan 09, 2006 7:22 pm

You will not need an alignment, because you are just messing with the sway bar. It has no impact on any part of an alignment. Hope that helps ya.

Steve2003 · Post by **Steve2003** » Mon Jan 09, 2006 7:26 pm

It sure does

I didn't think it did but I wanted to make sure. Thanks SANOMA915

Steve

SONOMA915 · Post by **SONOMA915** » Mon Jan 09, 2006 7:28 pm

No problem. Let us know how your handling changes when you are finished.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Mon Jan 09, 2006 7:40 pm

SONOMA915 wrote:No problem. Let us know how your handling changes when you are finished.

$10 says he gives a

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Jan 09, 2006 7:43 pm

Don't forget the measurements before , during , and after, please.

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Mon Jan 09, 2006 8:35 pm

I can't take all this

:thumb::thumb: I just ordered a set

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Mon Jan 09, 2006 8:43 pm

Jim wrote:I can't take all this :thumb::thumb: I just ordered a set

You'll Like

Post by **Walt** » Tue Jan 10, 2006 9:57 am

Looks like the bug is spreading

IMO, the bushings and sway helpers should be a "first mod" for anyone getting a CC or S-10 for a daily driver.

The road to my house is curvy, so I tried some aggressive driving the other day. There's one curve that would have had the tires squealing at 55MPH I can now take at almost 65MPH, and nowhere close to breaking the tires loose

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Tue Jan 10, 2006 2:29 pm

HenryJ wrote:Don't forget the measurements before , during , and after, please.

Here is the info HJ posted from another topic in case someone missed it.

"Even something as simple as measuring from a jacked front a-arm would be helpful. It would offer a percentage for the loss or reduction in body roll.

Jack up one wheel under the a-arm. Raise it to the point it starts to lift the other wheel. Be careful this will be a very unstable situation. Now measure how high the lifted wheel is off the ground.

Repeat this after installing the bushings.

I am curious to see what the difference will be.

If you add the clamp-on's do the same process for the rear to see what happens there as well".

Steve

Steve2003 · Post by **Steve2003** » Tue Jan 10, 2006 6:31 pm

HenryJ wrote:Don't forget the measurements before , during , and after, please.

All the parts were shipped yesterday and they should arrive in a few days.I plan on doing the installation this saturday and I will get those measurements.

I do a lot of mountain driving in the winter and hope this will make a big difference.

Steve

GeorgesBlazah · Post by **GeorgesBlazah** » Wed Jan 11, 2006 7:48 am

got mine done today

image
Link't over limit picture-HJ
old vs new
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y208/G ... 40405a.jpg

lol you think its supposed to be all bent up like that?
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y208/G ... 4c50db.jpg

good news my mysterious clunk in gone too! and it handles alot better now! havent had it up to highway speeds yet, but im gonna test that out tongiht with my new HIDs too.

JimmyDiamond · Post by **JimmyDiamond** » Thu Jan 12, 2006 10:16 am

I've had them on my Jimmy for almost 2 years. I also have them on my Hellwig rear swaybar.

Here's a couple pics I took last fall after I replaced my front hubs (you can see the red pieces.

Steve

GeorgesBlazah · Post by **GeorgesBlazah** » Sun Jan 15, 2006 8:49 am

qucik question here i just noticed that my kit didnt come with the washers that go on the link ends, are they neccessary?

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Jan 15, 2006 9:40 am

It should have all the parts that you see here

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Sun Jan 15, 2006 10:53 am

GeorgesBlazah wrote:qucik question here i just noticed that my kit didnt come with the washers that go on the link ends, are they neccessary?

It should come with all the parts f9k9 mentioned above.

GeorgesBlazah, are you saying your kit didn't come with the 8 large endlink washers?

Steve

barch97 · Post by **barch97** » Sun Jan 15, 2006 11:33 am

GeorgesBlazah wrote:lol you think its supposed to be all bent up like that?

GeorgesBlazah wrote:good news my mysterious clunk in gone too!

I'm betting these are related.

I guess it's about time for me to do the same.

GeorgesBlazah · Post by **GeorgesBlazah** » Sun Jan 15, 2006 11:41 am

nah im missing those 4 washers in the middle

Steve2003 · Post by **Steve2003** » Sun Jan 15, 2006 3:41 pm

OK, I went to visit my parents today and took the crew. There is this one stretch on the way to where they live that has a couple small hills with some semi windy roads. I am now more impressed than before with the handling. Turns that I had to brake for before I was now excelarating. This was completely awesome, even Marsha was impressed. I think since my truck is lifted it made even more of a difference. I haven't been offroad yet so I can't say yet how it will handle on the dirt trails. In my opinion this is the most performance enhancing mod for the buck that I have done on my truck. This is a must do especially for those who have lifted trucks. Can't wait to test it out next time we go skiing and we have to take the really windy roads up the mountain. My prediction is it's going to be awesome.

Steve

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Apr 07, 2006 2:59 pm

First off I need to apologize to Steve. The method I asked you to use for measuring was flawed. My reasoning was wrong. Sorry.

I realized the error in my thinking once I started the process. There was going to be little difference when measuring the wheel articulation. Sure there would be small differences, but hardly enough to measure and requiring much too much equipment to effectively raise the vehicle high enough. I raised one tire 16" off the ground and still was not getting the other tire to lift. This was before removal, so you can imagine the mess trying to lift the one side with the bar removed. Scary

I really should not have put anyone else in that situation. Thank goodness no one was stupid enough to try it and get hurt.
I kind of set you up for a fall unintentionally.

What needed to be measured is the body roll. Articulation is controlled by the sway bar. The speed at which the sway bar reacts is controlled by the links.
To some extent the sway bar bushings do affect the body roll in that they crush and allow "slop" in the sway bars transfer to the control arms.

Prompted by the quest to disconnect the sway bar I installed the polyurethane bushing kit. The parts look good. It is a shame to spend $30 for no more than you get, but there are not many options here. One bushing showed signs of porosity, but it appears to be a surface defect only. The rest all looked good.
The install went well. No surprises.

I tested the truck in a ramp. This was far from scientific conditions. I could bore you all with all the measurements, but I'll just cut to the chase.
The replacing the stock rubber bushings with the polyurethane bushings reduced the body roll 15%.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Fri Apr 07, 2006 3:48 pm

HenryJ wrote: The replacing the stock rubber bushings with the polyurethane bushings reduced the body roll 15%.

That 15% feels like 200% on daily drivers that have to contend with several miles of curves, on ramps and off ramps.

Nice explaination!

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Fri Apr 07, 2006 4:04 pm

Brule, have you noticed how much safer your CC seems when taking turns? After installing my bushings I found myself taking turns at higher speeds with much more confidence.

Steve

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Apr 07, 2006 4:17 pm

killian96ss wrote:...have you noticed how much safer your CC seems when taking turns?

Haven't driven it yet. I'll let you know later after the "new mod" wears off and I get a chance to try it out

EDIT: Just returned from a quick trip to the Dam. You guys are right. It does handle the curves better. The narrow 33's may hide some of the improvements that you see, but I am pleased. Not huge, but as noticeable as the Bilstein shocks like Reed said.

mattfu · Post by **mattfu** » Tue Nov 21, 2006 12:55 am

i need a little clairification before i place my summit order guys, bushing kit part number listed above is ENS-3-5207G this is black bushings for a 95-99 with 33mm sway bar, i see some member pics have red bushings shown, i am assuming these are part number ENS-3-5206R these are red bushings for 94-2004 with 28mm sway bar, just wondering why some guys have black and some red? and how many different sway bar diameters did chev use on these trucks?

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Nov 21, 2006 4:05 am

mattfu wrote:... just wondering why some guys have black and some red?

Color preference I would guess, although I prefer the graphite impregnated black partially for that reason too.

how many different sway bar diameters did chev use on these trucks?

I think the s-series had at least three diameters in all the models? It would be best to measure yours so you are sure to order the correct size.

Cajun · Post by **Cajun** » Fri Jan 05, 2007 3:48 pm

Ok, count me in too.

I measured my sway bar, ordered from Summit and have been sitting on the parts until the first of the year.

Took off the sway bar tonight, cleaned it up for a coat or two of school bus yellow paint and dry fit the new bushings. There is a small gap, maybe 1/8", in the bushing where it is split. Is this normal and will it close once bolted on?

Thanks for all your help!

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Fri Jan 05, 2007 4:06 pm

Cajun wrote:There is a small gap, maybe 1/8", in the bushing where it is split. Is this normal and will it close once bolted on?

My sway bar bushings were the same way at first, but when I fully tightened the bolts the gaps closed up.

Polyurethane bushings are designed to be very tight when installed.

Steve

Cajun · Post by **Cajun** » Fri Jan 05, 2007 4:34 pm

Awesome! Thanks for your help it gives me confidence going into it tomorrow. I am also going with the grade 8 bolts that you recommended.

Cajun · Post by **Cajun** » Fri Jan 05, 2007 5:05 pm

f9k9 wrote:It should have all the parts that you see here

One more question, what are the four flat washers in the middle of the photo for?

LonestarZ · Post by **LonestarZ** » Fri Jan 05, 2007 6:06 pm

I hate you guys... now I got something more to do to my truck.

WVHogRider · Post by **WVHogRider** » Fri Jan 05, 2007 6:14 pm

LonestarZ wrote:I hate you guys... now I got something more to do to my truck.

I know what you mean.

Body lift first though!!!!

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Fri Jan 05, 2007 6:26 pm

LonestarZ wrote:I hate you guys... now I got something more to do to my truck.

For a non rpo ZR2 those bushings and shocks were the best two mods done to them for handling. You got the shocks stock on your Z. Should be had for under $25 bucks. Your call but, a very impressive asphalt handling mod.

LonestarZ · Post by **LonestarZ** » Fri Jan 05, 2007 6:35 pm

How do you figure under $25? I looked up summit for the part I would need for a '02 and came back with this: ENS-3-5206R. (which still runs $30)

Am I missing something?

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Fri Jan 05, 2007 6:54 pm

Cajun wrote:
f9k9 wrote:It should have all the parts that you see here

One more question, what are the four flat washers in the middle of the photo for?

The 4 washers in the kit are for the 4 sway bar bracket to frame bolts.

You can reuse the stock mounting bolts, however I highly recommend getting some 3/8x1" coarse thread grade 8 bolts instead. I also added some hardened washer to the top and bottom of each bolt along with some 3/8" hardened nuts. When you replace factory rubber bushings with polyurethane bushings you are adding a lot more stress to the mounting points.

Steve

Cajun · Post by **Cajun** » Fri Jan 05, 2007 7:00 pm

Thanks again. I will use the hardware that you recommended.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Fri Jan 05, 2007 7:37 pm

LonestarZ wrote:How do you figure under $25? I looked up summit for the part I would need for a '02 and came back with this: ENS-3-5206R. (which still runs $30)

Am I missing something?

I just pulled that number out of my........ear

It could well be $30 but, check with Jigg. I bet he could beat $25.

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Jan 05, 2007 7:41 pm

You might consider making a few simple mods to the bolts for a Swaybar disconnect

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Jan 06, 2007 4:53 am

Don't be shocked if, you have a machine shop drill the bolts for the holes that are needed Muslhed and I both paid $20 for the work. That is why he is making and selling them now

I am 99.999% sure Brule has a drill press laying around

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Jan 06, 2007 5:26 am

Don't be scared away. You can easily drill holes in the bolts yourself.
Thread a nut down the bolt. Use a file to put a flat spot where you want to drill the hole. I do this on both sides. Center punch one side. Firm pressure , a sharp bit and a slow steady pace will drill the hole. A notch in a board is handy for steadying the bolt as you drill. Now thread that nut you added in the beginning off the bolt to clean off the threads. Deburr as needed and you're done.

If you want to add a wing, or tab to the bolt head, that will require a welder for a few minutes.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Jan 06, 2007 6:56 am

HenryJ wrote:............You can easily drill holes in the bolts yourself.

Smart Aleck

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Jan 06, 2007 7:17 am

f9k9 wrote:Smart Aleck

Thanks for the compliment, but my name is not "Aleck"