Boise SpringWorks rear spring kit

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Jun 11, 2003 4:47 am

Here is the kit I installed on my truck - Boise Spring Works S-series Crew Cab spring kit

It rides real close to stock, with an increase of up to 2" ride height.

You will be able to haul an ATV , or tow a trailer much more comfortably with this kit, and with only a minimal loss of articulation.

If we can get 10 orders the price will be $110 for the complete kit plus freight.
If there is interest I'll get the details "ironed out"

Contact Mike :
Boise Spring Works (S-series Crew Cab rear spring kit)
P.O. BOX 190002
Boise , ID 83719

Toll Free (800) 585-5332

Mike H. · Post by **Mike H.** » Wed Jun 11, 2003 10:03 am

....... SOON. Where do I send my check???????????

MikeyZR5 · Post by **MikeyZR5** » Wed Jun 11, 2003 11:59 am

I'm Interested!

Mike H. · Post by **Mike H.** » Fri Jun 13, 2003 7:37 pm

HenryJ, this is not much response, is it? Any response on the other forums? Looks like only 2 here. It's looking like full price - what is full price?

Conman · Post by **Conman** » Sat Jun 14, 2003 8:39 pm

Very Nice! How this these help with pre-load sag? Our stock springs sag to easy but I do like the ride of them. But since the overload leaf is taken out, how well will the new leafs work out?

Thanks,

Con

Mike H. · Post by **Mike H.** » Sun Jun 22, 2003 4:33 am

Well, on second thought, I'm out of the GP. Sorry.

I ordered the Trailmaster 3" add-a-leaf kit (R1537). It was only $50 at the local truck shop. Trailmaster also lists it as their 3" kit for Nissans, Toyotas, and even as 2" on the old Landrover, so some folks here may have it laying around in their garages.

I'll report back on that kit with before/after measurements and pix.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Jun 22, 2003 10:27 am

Sorry to take so long to get back on this

I was out of town to a FF Conference.

The springs ride great, almost the same as the factory ride. It definately rides higher in the rear, which takes a bit getting used to.

The advantage to adding multiple leaves , as opposed to one heavy add-a-leaf is that in order to achieve the desired lift in a single leaf they use a hard heavily arched spring. not only does this apply uneven forces on the factory springs concentrating the load at one point on the stock springs, they are prone to breakage when flexed hard. In order to keep prices low they usually only build a 2.25" leaf , so it will fit anything from imports to domestics and for a large age range. Our spring pack is 2.5".

By using the three leaf kit, the spring rate is progressive and evenly distributed as load increases. Also allowing for better ride characteristics.

The disadvantage is that you are buying six leaves.

This kit does include new U-bolts too. They are 9/16" and heavier than the stock ones (safety first!). the stock ones would have almost been long enough, but I'd recommend these over OEM.

I paid full price w/ Idaho sales tax $128.89 I do get a "Shop" discount by running it through the Hotrodder's Garage.

For those who are in a hurry:

#1-Look for a local spring shop in your area , take the pics that I supplied, and your truck with you. and have them give you a price.

#2-Call Boise spring Works , talk to Mike , let him know you are with the Crewcab website and Brule gave you the number. 1-800-585-5332

Mike has the template now and can put together a kit in less than an hour.

I'm not making anything on this , so there are definately no hard feelings if you can find a better price please share it with everyone here

Doogy · Post by **Doogy** » Sun Jun 22, 2003 2:08 pm

I'm interested. Do you think they will ship up here to Mid-Canada?

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Jun 22, 2003 3:25 pm

Mike has not done it yet, and neither have I.

I did ask him about orders outside the US and He was willing to check into it.

If we can get enough interest for the 10 orders I'll make arrangments for the GP.

I haven't had a chance to work out shipping or payment options yet. (been out of town, and forum downtime)

Does anyone know what would be involved in shipping to Canada?
I can personally ship each kit , if that is what it takes.

P.S. FYI- If you go shopping for a single short add-a-leaf kit the best GP price I got was through our local NAPA - Tough Country 2" add-a-leaf kit $14 + freight (20 orders)

I opted for the Boise Spring Works kit , for it's quality , durability, ride and the lack of a middleman making his buck.

If you are interested , I would STRONGLY suggest checking your local (hour drive) spring shop. The frieght on this will probably be close to $20. I have done the "Guinea Pig" thing , so now you know what to look for.

As Steven well knows , a little shopping around can sometimes get you a better price. He got a way better deal on his radiator than I got on mine!

dhawke · Post by **dhawke** » Mon Jun 23, 2003 10:30 am

You're absolutely NOT going to believe me but.....I met the little CFO for dinner one night, and we parked right next to each other. She looked at her Vue parked next to me truck and as God as my witness said, "You're right, you're truck DOES need to be higher."

While she's not willing to spring for the 5" TM lift, I think I can get her to sign off on the spring kit. I was thinking shackles anyway.

I'm definitely interested in the GP!

AZS10Crew · Post by **AZS10Crew** » Mon Jun 23, 2003 11:04 am

Sneak in a body lift too while you're at it.

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Jun 24, 2003 5:21 am

Those who are interested PM me a SHIPPING ADDRESS and I'll get some idea of the shipping costs for each of you. I'm not sure but a buisness address may be cheaper to ship to?

Ill also check and see if we can get the GP for less than 10 orders.

dhawke · Post by **dhawke** » Tue Jun 24, 2003 9:45 am

I hear ya' about the body lift. I'll have to see what I can do!

Anyone that has lifted their truck only a couple of inches have any recommendation on new shocks? I'd love to get some Bilsteins under my truck.

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Jun 24, 2003 3:39 pm

dhawke wrote:
Anyone that has lifted their truck only a couple of inches have any recommendation on new shocks? I'd love to get some Bilsteins under my truck.

You do realize that new shocks are not needed for the T-bar crank , and shackles or leafs, right? The stock spec. shocks should still be well within the range of travel.

I really like my Bilstein aftermarket shocks, the stock shocks are really poor at best, IMO.

dhawke · Post by **dhawke** » Tue Jun 24, 2003 5:06 pm

NO! I do NOT know that! And neither do you! Capeesh!?!

Work with me people!! I NEED new shocks when I do the lift....right!?!

Mike H. · Post by **Mike H.** » Tue Jun 24, 2003 5:48 pm

dhawke wrote:NO! I do NOT know that! And neither do you! Capeesh!?!
Work with me people!! I NEED new shocks when I do the lift....right!?!

Certainly. It is always HIGHLY recommended that all wives permit their husbands to install new shocks upon any newly lifted vehicle, regardless of vehicle type, amount of lift, or type of lift. (Even body lifts, because you can then see more of the shocks, and they should be new and a different color, such as Bilstein blue..........

) It is crutial for the mechanical life of the vehicle.

For those of us that are divorced, the arguement must only be made to that little voice inside that keeps saying, "at some point you're going to spend too much....."

dhawke · Post by **dhawke** » Wed Jun 25, 2003 4:12 am

["at some point you're going to spend too much....."]

That's like saying, "You're going to have too much fun."

[/quote]

dhawke · Post by **dhawke** » Sun Jun 29, 2003 4:34 am

Any word on the GP for these springs yet? My wife asked me yesterday if I had ordered them yet. I need to get this done before she changes her mind!

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Jun 29, 2003 6:41 am

I'm guessing you're the only one

I was going to wait another week, but since there does not appear to be enough interest for the GP , You might as well get one ordered.

Shipping to Canada is a BIG risk. The local Pack'n Ship said they are requiring a credit card "on file" for a shipment made to Canada. It looks like the problem lies in the border crossing when they assess the duty (taxes). As I understand it if they don't feel that the listed value is enough, they make thier own?
The shipper told me of a tanktop that a guy paid $15 for , shipped it to Canada and $30 in taxes were added. The person on the other end refused to pay for it , so the shipper was stuck with the $45 bill.

The best way for this to work, is to have a place , or friend close to the border, ship to them and then you pick it up, or they deliver.

I must apologize to those who were interested. With a lack of interest I kind of "dropped the ball" on getting shipping and billing figured out.

I posted the contact information in the first post. Idaho does have a 6% sales tax and shipping weight should be around 35 lbs.

Doogy · Post by **Doogy** » Mon Jun 30, 2003 11:57 am

Thanks for your reply and leg work HenryJ. I will see if I can find anything out through customs on our end on how it might work with duty and taxes. Unfortunately I do not have a contact directly south of the border...............CHeers!

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Jun 30, 2003 3:09 pm

Doogy wrote:Thanks for your reply and leg work HenryJ. I will see if I can find anything out through customs on our end on how it might work with duty and taxes. Unfortunately I do not have a contact directly south of the border...............CHeers!

Talked to Mike today. He seems to think that shipping to Canada would be do'able

He has an outlet in Spokane that ships to Canada regularly.

Give him a call if you're interested.

He does accept credit cards too.

Superchargedcrew · Post by **Superchargedcrew** » Mon Jun 30, 2003 5:59 pm

Hello,

Henry I'm in for a set of those leafs. Let me know how much. And if I'm correct you can crank the t-bars to offset the height from front to rear right? Zip code is 43338

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Jun 30, 2003 6:32 pm

Superchargedcrew wrote:Hello,

Henry I'm in for a set of those leafs. Let me know how much. And if I'm correct you can crank the t-bars to offset the height from front to rear right? Zip code is 43338

I did a mild T-bar crank and with the Boise Spring Works kit , I'm back to about the rake it had stock before the spring sag (1.5"-2" higher in the rear) The main thing to watch out for when you crank the T-bars is to not bottom out the porkchop inside the crossmember.

I called Mike and told him that I wasn't getting the interest for this GP that I had anticipated.

So I'm going to have anyone who wants one go ahead and call him directly to order a kit.

I told him to treat you guys right , so ask if you can get one at the group price of $110 + shipping.

You can estimate the shipping costs via UPS shipping estimate

Yours came out to $30.61

It may actually be less since Mike gets a bit of a break on shipping.

I used 35lbs. 24x8x8 in. I don't know exactly what the weight and packaging will be, but the first one to buy one will fill us in (I hope)

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Sep 07, 2003 6:34 pm

Very pleased with the springs. I had 17 gal. of fuel in the back, full cooler, 6 gal. of water, it sits and handles like it should.

The springs have not hindered the articulation at all.

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Nov 19, 2003 10:20 pm

There was some clarification on the install needed:

You have painted all the parts, right?
1. With truck in 4 hi (for added safety), chock front tires.
2. Lift rear of truck on jack stands so wheels hang free, both sides
3. Remove rear tires. (not necessary to remove tires, if you do remove both to keep things balanced)
4. Detach shocks from lower mounts (It's easier this way) Remove existing u-bolts and nuts.
5. Use floor jack to lift axle (balanced) off spring packs.
6. Use c-clamp to clamp spring pack.
7. Use vice grips and wrench to remove center pin, and remove overload spring.
8. Drop in new center pin
9. Use c-clamp to hold new springs to the spring pack and compress.
10. Use vice grips and wrench to secure nut on new center pin and tighten.
11. Remove c-clamps.
12. Repeat steps 6-11 on opposite side.
13. Lower axle back on to spring packs (make sure it is centered- pin in holes).
14. Move shock mount back into place and put on new u-bolts and nuts. (Will I have any problem extending the shock by hand?, No)

Nate · Post by **Nate** » Tue Nov 25, 2003 6:01 pm

Id like to get in on this also.

Edit : nevermind, i just read your previous post about not getting enough participation

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Nov 27, 2003 9:59 am

Nate wrote:Id like to get in on this also.

Edit : nevermind, i just read your previous post about not getting enough participation

#2-Call Boise spring Works , talk to Mike , let him know you are with the Crewcab website and Brule gave you the number. 1-800-585-5332
Contact Mike :
Boise Spring Works (S-series Crew Cab rear spring kit)
P.O. BOX 190002
Boise , ID 83719

What is full price? ... I paid full price w/ Idaho sales tax $128.89

Funny how the interest in this kit is starting to catch on now

I have had several email inquirys.
Guess that they are all starting to notice the rear spring sag coming on

and are not looking for the harsh ride of the single leaf kits.

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Jan 16, 2004 11:11 am

anonymous emailer wrote: Good day. My name is ****** (Screen name ******) on the crew cab web site, I don't want to appear too stupid so I'm e-mailing directly. I have a pop up camper and gear that I tow quite often. Would the Boise Spring Kit aid in keepin the rear of my truck level? Is the ride more harsh when not hauling or towing? You say it gives about 2" of lift in the rear. Does the truck track differently after the install? Thank you in advance for your time.

Don't worry about looking stupid on the internet, that's just stupid

Yes it would aid in keeping the truck level, my boat and trailer weighs 1800 lb. and it settles in just above level.
The ride is just slightly firmer than stock though not really noticeable. That was one of the main reasons for using a multi leaf kit, better weight distribution within the spring pack.
After it settles in it is real close to 1.5" of lift.
It feels a little different afterwards, but you will get used to the change in rake.
It should not require a re-alignment of the front end since the change in caster will be so small as to be likely still within spec. However if you do the T-bar crank at the same time that is the time to realign the front end.

Please feel free to ask questions on the forum, we won't tease any for very long

(or at all) That way we all learn , and the next person will educate him/herself from your questions

I am going to post these questions anonymously so others can have the questions answered too.

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Jan 16, 2004 12:50 pm

We haven't heard from Melloyellow yet on his experience with the Boise Spring Works Kit. Good or bad let us have it

I have one question for anyone else who bought this kit-
How much did Mike charge you?
How long did it take to arrive?
How much was shipping?

(Ok, so maybe three questions

)

Retep · Post by **Retep** » Sat Jan 17, 2004 9:34 am

HenryJ wrote:I have one question for anyone else who bought this kit-
How much did Mike charge you?
How long did it take to arrive?
How much was shipping?

(Ok, so maybe three questions )

30 Lbs. .323 x 2.5 in. @ $93.15
3/8 center bolts qty. 2 @ $3.60
9/16 x 14 u-bolt qty. 4 @ $23.40
shipping UPS ground $30.25

Total $150.40

Delivery took about a week. The u-bolts he sent were actually a little shorter than the stock u-bolts

. Would not be enough threads on either the stock or new ones. I called Mike and he promptly sent out a new set an inch longer.

Now I just need to get them installed. Wish this cold weather would break or at least get some real snow to play in.

Pete

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Jan 17, 2004 10:01 am

Retep wrote: 30 Lbs. .323 x 2.5 in. @ $93.15
3/8 center bolts qty. 2 @ $3.60
9/16 x 14 u-bolt qty. 4 @ $23.40
shipping UPS ground $30.25

Total $150.40

Delivery took about a week. The u-bolts he sent were actually a little shorter than the stock u-bolts . Would not be enough threads on either the stock or new ones. I called Mike and he promptly sent out a new set an inch longer.

Thanks!

Looks like he did cut you a little bit of a break on the price.
He must have a little problem remembering the right length U-bolts

Mello's bolts were a little on the long side

nothing that was going to cause problems , but irritating all the same. Glad to hear that He stepped up and made things right with not too much hassle.

Be sure to give us a "blow-by-blow" on the install.

Retep · Post by **Retep** » Sat Jan 17, 2004 4:04 pm

HenryJ wrote:
Be sure to give us a "blow-by-blow" on the install.

I will do that. I will also post my experiences/final opinion after I get some miles on them.
Maybe some pics as well.

Pete

Ken · Post by **Ken** » Thu Feb 19, 2004 7:32 pm

I have ordered my from Mike, he told me 120.00 plus shipping, real painless process. I like the fact that I did not have to go around town and explain what I wanted or take the springs off the truck and have to leave them at a shop for a day or two. Mike sounds like he has this down to a science, just call him and they are ready to ship the next day. I have not received mine yet, but once I do and they are installed I'll have an update, hopefully with photos.

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Feb 19, 2004 7:42 pm

Ken wrote:I have ordered my from Mike, he told me 120.00 plus shipping, real painless process. I like the fact that I did not have to go around town and explain what I wanted or take the springs off the truck and have to leave them at a shop for a day or two. Mike sounds like he has this down to a science, just call him and they are ready to ship the next day. I have not received mine yet, but once I do and they are installed I'll have an update, hopefully with photos.

Be sure to let us know what shipping charges were to your location.

That will help others estimate costs

It is a bigger investment than the "Add-a-leaf kits" , but well worth it , IMO.

Ken · Post by **Ken** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 9:56 am

HenryJ wrote:
Ken wrote:I have ordered my from Mike, he told me 120.00 plus shipping, real painless process. I like the fact that I did not have to go around town and explain what I wanted or take the springs off the truck and have to leave them at a shop for a day or two. Mike sounds like he has this down to a science, just call him and they are ready to ship the next day. I have not received mine yet, but once I do and they are installed I'll have an update, hopefully with photos.
Be sure to let us know what shipping charges were to your location.

That will help others estimate costs

It is a bigger investment than the "Add-a-leaf kits" , but well worth it , IMO.

Here the totals on the speing kit.

springs = 127.50
U-Bolts = 27.60
center bolts = 4.00
Shipping = 22.50
Total = 181.60

This was about 30.00 more than I had fiqured (diff was in the parts pricing) based on the info on the site. Mike states they had a increase in the steel price from a supplier.

""It is a bigger investment than the "Add-a-leaf kits" , but well worth it , IMO""
DITTO HenryJ

They are still sitting in my garage awaiting installation. I have a few clunks and squeaks in the front end and a leaking oil pan gasket. (what would you expect I mean the thing has 6000 mile on it.

) so it's been back and forth to the dealer over the last couple of weeks. I want to get the noises fixed prior to any mods or other wise those noises would be "my" fault.

2bunik · Post by **2bunik** » Wed Mar 17, 2004 5:33 pm

price went up. I just called mike down here in boise. I told him If I went to pick up the kit .. What kind of price am I looking at.. he said its 147.00 since the price of there steel went up. . I was tossing around the idea. but I am sticking to shackles for now..

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Mar 17, 2004 6:04 pm

2bunik wrote: price went up.... I am sticking to shackles for now..

Sorry to hear that. I'm bummed that the price went up that much, it does make the other options a little more attractive.
I'd still go with springs for anyone who will be hauling a large load, or towing.
It is still a better way to lift for those applications.
With no adverse effects to ride or handling, it is still the best way to go , IMO.
(Glad that I did mine early

)

Retep · Post by **Retep** » Mon Apr 26, 2004 8:27 am

Brule, It looks like I may get a break in the "honey do list" this weekend and finally get my springs installed.

However I have a couple concerns/questions. After doing a little preliminary fitting (holding the new springs up to the old ones), I think I might get more lift than can be off set with a t-bar crank. It looks like I can only safely get about .75 to 1 inch of t-bar crank due to the angle that my axles are in the stock position. Sitting empty, I have a good 1 inch of rake, but it does drag @$$ as soon as any load goes in the bed. When I put these on, I could wind up with to much rake thus a hot rod look, not what I want. 1.5 to 2 inch would be ok but no more.

What if I left out the bottom/smallest spring? I think it might result in just a little less lift but still resist sagging under load. Could doing this put to much stress on the two I do install and cause eventual sag or even worse break one of them? Let me know what you think.

Thanks,
Pete

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Apr 26, 2004 10:26 am

Go ahead and put them all in. There will be some settling of the new springs, and they will "flatten" a little when you install as they overcome the stock springs.

A good indicator of just how much lift you can expect is to jack the truck up to unload the rear springs completely (tires almost lifted off) then compare the kit springs arch to the stock springs, the "gap" is pretty close to the amount of lift you will see.

Hope that makes some sense?

The springs really are designed to be used as a package , offering a progressive load to the spring pack.

Wait a few months afterwards before you decide it is too high in the back, if it is.
I'm really happy with the way that mine sits

Retep · Post by **Retep** » Mon Apr 26, 2004 11:14 am

HenryJ wrote:A good indicator of just how much lift you can expect is to jack the truck up to unload the rear springs completely (tires almost lifted off) then compare the kit springs arch to the stock springs, the "gap" is pretty close to the amount of lift you will see.

Hmm... If I understand what your saying, I am not going to get any lift. I think I am confused.

With the rear jacked up and tire off the ground, the arch is almost identical. When not jacked up, if I line up the center bolt hole next to and just under the bottom leaf (not the overload) there is over an inch more arch at the ends of the boise leafs.

Thanks,
Pete

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Apr 26, 2004 1:17 pm

When you take the center bolt out of the stock pack and discard the overload look at the gap you have to clamp down as you tighten up the clamp and new center bolt. it is that to which I refer. It is really hard to judge how much the axles weight pulls down the arch when jacking up the rear end.
I would say the next best thing to do is install it and let us know how it works out

I really don't think you'll be disapointed with them all installed.

( Sure wish Bennie was around to offer you a second opinion

)

Retep · Post by **Retep** » Mon Apr 26, 2004 1:55 pm

Hope to install this weekend. I didn't think omitting a leaf was the greatest idea, but wanted to check anyway. I'll do all 3 as designed.

What ever happend to Mello?

Pete

2bunik · Post by **2bunik** » Mon Apr 26, 2004 1:57 pm

I saw brules truck and it looks pretty even to me .. just eye balloing it I would say brule rear sits 3/4 inch higher in the back.. just my two cents there is no hot rod look. .. overall looks alot bigger than mine let me tell you .. I honestly think it is the flares..

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Apr 26, 2004 4:05 pm

Retep wrote: What ever happend to Mello?

Dunno...MIA?

Retep · Post by **Retep** » Tue Jun 01, 2004 6:40 am

I finally got the springs installed

. Install time took exactly 2 hours. It gave me 1.5 inch of lift in the rear. I offset this with about .75 inch of t-bar crank. The stance is much better now. It actually looks the way a non lifted 4x4 truck should.

The install: Not bad, pretty straight forward. My tip to anyone who does this is to be sure you soak the u-bolts and leaf pack center bolt with plenty of penetrating oil before hand, specially if you live in the salt belt. I sprayed mine good the night before and I had a hell of a time breaking the bolts free from 2 winters worth of road salt induced rust.
When I put on the new u-bolts, I could only manage 100 ft. lbs. of torque on them. I think Brule suggested 120, but I was putting a lot of effort in just to get 100. It was to the point that I thought I might damage the threads if I went any further.

The T-bar crank: This took me about an hour to get it where I wanted it. Crank a little... not enough. Crank a little more... still not enough, Crank a little more... too much. Crank a little less... bla bla bla etc. Aah just right.
Took it in for an alignment afterwards and the caster setting was still within spec. Only thing out of spec was passenger side toe in was 1.5 degree off. I got a 6 month warranty, so I will keep an eye on the tread wear and probably take it back in for a re-check in about a month. I did notice what sounded like tire hum on the drive into work this morning. I am a little nervous about the t-bar crank because a few of the corrugations (or whatever they are called) on the inner CV boots make constant contact.

The ride: It is noticeably stiffer in the rear now. The back feels bouncy over bumps. Perhaps some new Bilstein's will solve this. The ride is a little firmer than I wanted

. Hopefully with time the springs will break in and soften some. The t-bar crank had no noticeable change on the ride.

All my driving with the new springs so far has been with no load. I don't carry heavy loads often, but I am sure the new springs will make the ride much better and with minimal rear end sag when I do load it down now.
Time to find something heavy to haul and give them a proper test.

Pete

Retep · Post by **Retep** » Wed Jun 16, 2004 11:28 am

Update:

I hauled about 400 lbs. of ceramic tile and cement board to the dump yesterday. It is a much better ride under load with the new springs. The back didn't sag a bit

. The sloppy mushy feeling ride while loaded was also absent. I know 400 lbs. is not much, but previously this would have caused some sagging.

However, I am still not all together pleased with the ride empty. Suspension compression feels ok over a bump, but rebound is harsh. Smooth asphalt roads ride nice while concrete slab roads are rough and bouncy

.

I am sure some Bilstein's would help, unfortunately the home improvement budget is getting all the money and my mod budget is non-existent. I am considering removing the bottom leaf to see if that would soften the ride a little.

Overall, I am happy with the Boise springs, but not as much as I wanted to be.

Pete

Rusty · Post by **Rusty** » Wed Jun 16, 2004 11:34 am

Retep wrote:unfortunately the home improvement budget is getting all the money and my mod budget is non-existent.

I know this one all too well! I had a bunch of cash set aside for my project only to have a leaky basement and blown up air conditioner / heat pump suck my bank account dry.

I am thinking about doing this spring mod though since I do haul a lot of junk and pull a loaded down trailer on some loads. Just glad I don't have to haul stuff at night as spotting possums is illegal!

Retep · Post by **Retep** » Wed Jun 16, 2004 12:22 pm

GaryH wrote:I am thinking about doing this spring mod though since I do haul a lot of junk and pull a loaded down trailer on some loads. Just glad I don't have to haul stuff at night as spotting possums is illegal!

Even though I am not 100% satisfied with the spring mod, I do recommend it. I am sure the spring kit would be great for towing a trailer and "hauling a lot of junk"

.
I bet Brule could give some insight on the towing a trailer part .

I drive mine empty 95% of the time, that is why I am thinking of pulling the bottom leaf in search of a little softer ride.

Pete

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Jun 16, 2004 1:20 pm

Retep wrote:...Even though I am not 100% satisfied with the spring mod, I do recommend it. I am sure the spring kit would be great for towing a trailer and "hauling a lot of junk"...
I drive mine empty 95% of the time, that is why I am thinking of pulling the bottom leaf in search of a little softer ride.

Did you install the kit? (edit:

I just read back...you did install the kit

)

What are you running for shocks?

The whole reason for the multiple leafs is for a softer ride and increased ride height.
They get progressively firmer as you load them.
I pack an extra 20 gal. of fuel most of the time and that may account for a little difference, but I am running empty at least 95% of the time.

The bouncy is more than likely the shock problem.

Sorry you're not happy with the ride characteristics now. I hate to say it , but losing one leaf is probably not going to help matters.
The only way you are going to get the ride back to what you had stock is to remove the springs.
If you don't do any towing, maybe shackles would be better for you. I'm sure you could sell the spring kit. You bought it before the price of steel raised so much, so they would be a bargain at what you paid.

On that note , I can not recommend Mike's kit at the current price...Check your local spring shop for a better price (hopefully)

They are still way better than a single leaf add-a-leaf kit though.

Rusty · Post by **Rusty** » Wed Jun 16, 2004 1:28 pm

Well, I would like to think that "hauling a lot of junk" isn't going to be a permanent thing. Eventually, I'll get rid of it all (probably as soon as the wife runs out of perfectly good stuff of mine to throw out)! Then I'll be running empty most of the time too. Just how "harsh" is the ride empty?

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Jun 16, 2004 2:22 pm

GaryH wrote:... Just how "harsh" is the ride empty?

I didn't think it was harsh at all

Barely noticeably firmer than stock.

Retep · Post by **Retep** » Thu Jun 17, 2004 5:50 am

HenryJ wrote:What are you running for shocks?

Stock Junk shocks

HenryJ wrote:The bouncy is more than likely the shock problem.

I figured that was the cause. Got to get some Bilstein's

HenryJ wrote:Sorry you're not happy with the ride characteristics now. I hate to say it , but losing one leaf is probably not going to help matters.
The only way you are going to get the ride back to what you had stock is to remove the springs.

Yeah, I figured removing the bottom leaf wouldn't help much, but I thought well maybe....
Perhaps I will give Mike at Boise a call and ask his opinion on it.

Don't get me wrong. I am not dissatisfied with the results from installing the kit, just the ride while empty. Maybe the stock ride suited me best.
I am not going to remove the kit, so it is not for sale.

I do like the added lift it gave. That and a tweak of the t-bars really make the stance the way it should be from the factory. However, now my stock 235/75 tires look a little small. 30"s to come in about a year.

The kit does what its supposed to do. Rear doesn't sag while loaded and the ride is firm. Before the spring kit, 500 lbs. or more made the truck feel as if it were overloaded.

GaryH wrote:Just how "harsh" is the ride empty?

Perhaps "harsh" is to harsh of a word. It is not unbearable just a little bouncy over less then smooth roads. Sudden bumps can be a little jarring. Empty, it kind of feels like my dads old 79 Corvette.

I think as Brule stated, the shocks are an issue. Perhaps these springs have brought to my attention just how inferior the stock shocks are. Also, but I dought this is really an issue. These springs were designed for the crew. I have an extended cab. I don't believe there is much of a weight difference between the models.

Since I like the ride with a load, maybe I should through a few hundred pounds of ballast in the bed

.

Pete

Retep · Post by **Retep** » Thu Jun 17, 2004 6:09 am

HenryJ wrote:
GaryH wrote:... Just how "harsh" is the ride empty?
I didn't think it was harsh at all Barely noticeably firmer than stock.

I think it is very noticeably firmer than stock. It takes a lot to compress these springs.

Brule, I don't know why I did this but I left the spacer thing that was between the bottom leaf and the overload leaf in place. It is now between the bottom stock leaf and the top boise leaf. Should I have removed it?

Pete

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Jun 17, 2004 10:13 am

Retep wrote:... I don't know why I did this but I left the spacer thing that was between the bottom leaf and the overload leaf in place. It is now between the bottom stock leaf and the top boise leaf. Should I have removed it?...

No that is just fine. I left mine there also, I think.

You might give your springs a while to "break-in" I bet the ride will improve a little.

Did you get shocks yet?

Retep · Post by **Retep** » Thu Jun 17, 2004 10:35 am

HenryJ wrote:
Retep wrote:... I don't know why I did this but I left the spacer thing that was between the bottom leaf and the overload leaf in place. It is now between the bottom stock leaf and the top boise leaf. Should I have removed it?...
No that is just fine. I left mine there also, I think.

You might give your springs a while to "break-in" I bet the ride will improve a little.

Did you get shocks yet?

I figured the ride would soften a little in time.
Shocks are going to be a while. All the vehicle mod $ are going into the house for the time being.

Pete

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Jun 17, 2004 11:16 am

Retep wrote:......Shocks are going to be a while. ...

Gotcha

Re-assess the ride after upgrading the shocks. I think you'll be pleasantly suprised with the HUGE difference.

Retep · Post by **Retep** » Wed Aug 11, 2004 6:36 am

Update:

I have had the springs on for a couple of months and a couple thousand miles. The ride has improved a little. It's not nearly as harsh as when I first installed them. Bilsteins are a must get though. I hope to have some soon.
The springs have sagged/settled about a 1/4" since the install which is ok but I hope they don't sag any more. I like the stance as it is now. After the springs settled, I probably still have a good 1 1/4" lift from the springs.
Oh yeah... these things are great when any heavy load is put in the bed. I have not towed anything since installing the springs, but I suspect they will help a lot with towing as well.

Pete

04revx · Post by **04revx** » Mon Sep 06, 2004 8:52 pm

Sorry to bring up a post from the dead, but I've got some questions...

I have a 2000 4-door Blazer and am considering this kit or one from a local shop. Should I expect similar ride characteristics as you ZR5 guys after install? I tow a snowmobile trailer so shackles are out of the question. And will a simple t-bar crank be enough to offset the added lift in the rear? I want to be able to fit some beafy 30's in there.

BTW, I just wanted to mention what an awesome, informative site you guys have here. Every other S-10 site is into dropping the trucks which IMO is a disgrace to a truck. Its nice to see you guys using your 4x4's for what they were made for, but to each their own. Hope you guys can welcome a Blazer guy to your site. Thanks!

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Sep 07, 2004 4:50 am

04revx wrote:...Should I expect similar ride characteristics as you ZR5 guys after install? ... will a simple t-bar crank be enough to offset the added lift in the rear? ...Hope you guys can welcome a Blazer guy to your site...

The kit was really designed for a crew cab, and I have not compared the spring packs, so I'd can't really say for sure how the fit or ride would be.
There may be differences in length of and or number of leaves?

A local shop should be able to fix you up. Feel free to use the information you find here to help explain what you're wanting to do.

I'm guessing it would be close to softer due to the increase in weight on the rear.
A little crank it front is enough to look pretty good , IMO.

Be prepared...the cost of steel has gone NUTS. The price of springs may also be much more than it was earlier.

Another Blazer guy is

we , all S-series, have lots in common.

camelott112 · Post by **camelott112** » Sat Oct 16, 2004 5:28 am

man i would have loved to know about this site when the kit came out i just found out what it was and i want one!!!!!!!!!!!! but if prices are that high then eh i dunno i have a 4wheeler i pull around and this sounds like a nice sag solve maybe my local shop wont rake me over the coals is boise still expensive???

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Oct 16, 2004 6:04 am

camelott112 wrote:...is boise still expensive???

I would bet on it.
Mike does have an "800" number though, so call and get his current price.

Steel has gone crazy. Scrap is going for $50 a ton.
While that is great for the guy hauling all that rusting stuff to the recycler, it makes it hard on the ones who have to buy steel.

I would check for a local spring shop. Your best buy would be there, and heck if you get then set-up to build the kit by bringing them the pictures and instructions, who knows maybe they will give you a break on the price.
That and, we will have another place to get kits from

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Jul 22, 2005 3:04 pm

Stopped in for a set of springs for another project.

Boise SpringWorks has new owners as of June 4th. I checked on the kit, and the only employee from the old management is named Mike too

He is up to speed on the kit and has all the information needed.
Nice guy and real easy to get along with.
He said that he just got done sending a spring kit to PA.
I asked what it ran, and he wasn't sure , but thought it ran around $130?

Anyway, if anyone wants a kit the information is still good. Mike said that if you want a little more , or less lift , let him know and He'll arch the springs accordingly. He thinks the kit could go as much as 2.5 inches of lift if that is what you want.

Tribecrist · Post by **Tribecrist** » Fri Jul 29, 2005 11:42 am

Received my BSW kit on Wednesday total price including shipping to PA was $ 170

Looking forward to Saturdays installation....

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Jul 29, 2005 1:03 pm

Thanks for the updated price! Let us know how the install goes

Tribecrist · Post by **Tribecrist** » Sat Jul 30, 2005 1:30 pm

The Boise SW Installation was good i had to run out and buy a grinder to take down the excessive exposed threads on the u bolts.

I also did a t bar crank 4 full turns.

Last weekend I installed 1.5" spacers on the back.

I like the results. Now I have to save for a BL and 31" tires.

Thanks to HJ and everyone at this site for your imput.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Jul 30, 2005 1:49 pm

Tribecrist wrote:...i had to run out and buy a grinder to take down the excessive exposed threads on the u bolts.

How much too long were the U-bolts?
This is the second time that I have heard that, and mine were not too long. I'll make sure they get the right length U-bolts made for future kits.

Tribecrist · Post by **Tribecrist** » Sat Jul 30, 2005 4:10 pm

Well HJ ...one was real long I cut 1.75" off that one and the other three I cut about an inch off.

snocat1 · Post by **snocat1** » Sat Jul 30, 2005 5:32 pm

hey Tribcrist could we see some pic'sand was it real easy to install?

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Jul 30, 2005 5:57 pm

Tribecrist wrote:Well HJ ...one was real long I cut 1.75" off that one and the other three I cut about an inch off.

Thank you I will make sure that is addressed, as I have some plans that may require these kits.

Tribecrist · Post by **Tribecrist** » Sun Jul 31, 2005 6:37 am

snocat1

I posted pics in the user gallery.Yes it was easy just follow the directions listed in modifications and posts in this site.

My only problem was the the u-bolt cutting.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Jul 31, 2005 6:47 am

Thanks for the picture-

You're right, the length on those U-bolts is crazy

Tribecrist · Post by **Tribecrist** » Sun Jul 31, 2005 6:53 am

HJ. Lift plans?

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Jul 31, 2005 6:57 am

Tribecrist wrote:Lift plans?

You're headed the right direction and have one of the components out of the way

Tribecrist · Post by **Tribecrist** » Sun Jul 31, 2005 6:58 am

Oh i see,
I also did a t-bar crank. 1.5"

Rusty · Post by **Rusty** » Sun Jul 31, 2005 10:06 am

That's TWO things out of the way!

S-10CREWCAB.NET

Boise SpringWorks rear spring kit

Boise SpringWorks rear spring kit

Lets do it.......

Leafs

Re: Leafs