idler arm is out

snocat1 · Post by **snocat1** » Sun Jun 05, 2005 2:04 pm

Went and got tires for my truck. the service rep said my idler arm needs to be replaced. i've have 60,000 miles on my cc. Was wondering if any one has replaced theres yet?

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Jun 05, 2005 3:04 pm

If it has not been greased at every oil change, it doesn't surprise me.
Be careful though , I think the permissible movement is .125". That is quite a bit and some people that are unfamiliar with the GM specs tend to call them bad when they are still within specs.

There have been a few people upgrade to the fullsize truck idler and pitman arm. I haven't looked into this far enough yet though.

1990 Chevrolet K-3500 4x4
Idler Arm (TRW)- 19096
Pitman Arm (TRW)- 190121

ZR2.com thread with pictures

ZR2DK wrote:i replaced the stock idler and pitman with the 92 2500 parts, moog...
MOOG PART NUMBERS
1992 K2500 4X4 (3/4 TON) Pickup
IDLER ARM------------K6483T (1992 Full Size 4X4)
PITMAN ARM-----------K6335 (1992 Full Size 4X4)

gmshades - s10extremist web site wrote:The Truck is a 88-92 Fullsize 1/2 Ton.

For Perfect circle Parts at Autozone:

Pitman Arm - FA1555 - $21.99
Idler Arm, standard susp. - FA1618 - $34.99
Idler Arm, hd susp. - FA1680 - $36.99

RobM wrote:I used part FA1680 , it was the HD part number listed on s10extremist web site

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Sun Jun 05, 2005 3:34 pm

I think mine is bad I have a slight loose feeling when going over bumps with the right front tire 30,000 miles. I've greased it every 3,000 mi. In my area they pave the roads & don't raise the man hole covers so I've hit allot of bumps. They are so bad on one street they painted white stripes in front of them so you can recognize them better. I have checked my ball joints they are tight but my idler does have some movement. I am way pickier than the next guy when it comes to tight steering

TheBigFitz · Post by **TheBigFitz** » Sun Jun 05, 2005 6:42 pm

I replaced mine as well around 80K

Rusty · Post by **Rusty** » Mon Jun 06, 2005 5:15 am

I'm fairly sure I will be replacing mine soon as well. I have almost 60k on my truck and I have to admit I've been pretty bad about greasing the front end so I'll probably be replacing a few other things as well. I know, my bad!

AZS10Crew · Post by **AZS10Crew** » Mon Jun 06, 2005 3:03 pm

Mine was replaced at around 30,000 miles I think.

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Fri Jul 01, 2005 9:52 am

I just checked my lower ball joints... they are a little loose. What is the allowable play in them?

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Jul 01, 2005 4:07 pm

Jim wrote:I just checked my lower ball joints... they are a little loose. What is the allowable play in them?

.125 inch maximum

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Fri Jul 01, 2005 4:26 pm

HenryJ wrote:
Jim wrote:I just checked my lower ball joints... they are a little loose. What is the allowable play in them?
.125 inch maximum

Thats about what it looks like. Dealer may say borderline. I'm getting an alignment in Sept. I'll see if in Aug. my alignment shop can write me a note saying they are needed before he can do it. I have a warranty for another 20,000 mi. 3 years.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Fri Jul 01, 2005 4:27 pm

So, bottom line is that those full size part numbers will work with our rigs

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Jul 01, 2005 4:53 pm

Jim wrote:
HenryJ wrote:
Jim wrote:I just checked my lower ball joints... they are a little loose. What is the allowable play in them?
.125 inch maximum
Thats about what it looks like. Dealer may say borderline. I'm getting an alignment in Sept. I'll see if in Aug. my alignment shop can write me a note saying they are needed before he can do it. I have a warranty for another 20,000 mi. 3 years.

More than likely the dealer will have to send it out to an alignment shop to measure the wear. If you do have it aligned they can print out the freeplay.

Here is a good thread that chronicles my warranty replacement: Lower Ball Joints

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Fri Jul 01, 2005 5:02 pm

snocat1 wrote:Went and got tires for my truck. the service rep said my idler arm needs to be replaced. i've have 60,000 miles on my cc. Was wondering if any one has replaced theres yet?

I'm on my 3rd. 2nd one was a cheapy and I didn't know it, first one was out at 19k miles. I found out when I put my lift on. I have a very close to new one that is a good one for sale.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Oct 09, 2005 2:14 pm

More on the 3/4 ton replacement parts:

Originally posted by muslhed wrote: I haven't seen any e-mails from ya Trails! I get PM's all the time, but I haven't seen one from you just yet that I recall. No, you don't have to drill out the frame to put the 3/4 ton parts on.

There is so much more to say about the 3/4 ton parts than just "buy parts from Moog for a K2500"!!! Info like that is what caused me to go through a good bit of trial & error on this subject. I think that I have finally achieved success in combating this non-stop idler arm failure problem.....at least until I SFA it!

Here is a seperate thread that I contributed some good info about this whole idler arm delimma:

http://forum.zr2.com/ubb/noncgi/ultimat ... 0;t=001309

and a much more detailed one here on my website, with pics:

http://64.177.211.114/Midwest/html/txfo ... wtopic=511

Here are the facts:

1.) Our stock idler arm is very weak by design. It will quickly go bad if you wheel your truck regularly.

2.) The 3/4 ton parts are about 3 times larger & stronger than our stock parts.

3.) You will need to buy BOTH the Idler AND Pitman arms for a 1992 Chevy 3/4 ton 4x4 truck (Not just "full-size", or just "3/4 ton". Buy Moog Problem Solver parts (approx. $125 for both parts)

4.) The more you have your Torsion Bars cranked, the more you will be prone to idler arm failure due to the increased angle of the tie rods pushing UP at an angle to the Center Link, while off-roading.

5.) The bigger & more aggressive the tire, the more the applied stress while be on a stock sized idler arm.

6.) The more offset wheel you use on your IFS vehicle, the more increased the leverage will be on your steering linkage (mainly the idler arm).

7.) This mod will not work with any type of aftermarket suspension lift.

Enter the 1992 Chevy 3/4 ton 4x4 Idler & Pitman arm mod!!! You can read the posts I linked above to read allllll about it.

Hack Job, the problem you have is that you have your TB's cranked WAAAAAAY too much (especially with the re-indexers), you've got tall, aggressive tires and offset wheels. This is a great recipe for an idler arm feast! You might not think your TB's are cranked too much, but go look closely at your current tie rod angle in relation to the center link. Remember this: The closer you can keep the tie rods angles to being parallel with the Center Link (i.e., draw a mental straignt line here...) the more you will reduce the stress on your steering components while off-roading. Find a way to lower those TB's, even after installing the 3/4 ton parts, and you will see much better idler arm life off-road. This is the major reason I chose to maintain a very low COG by trimming the inside of my front fenders out. As a side benefit, I didn't have to crank my TB's but a very little bit, to keep from rubbing while twisted up. You've wheeled with me before! BTW, remember this pic from our run earlier this year?? You've had Idler Arm issues for quite some time.

IMAGE

PM me your phone #. I'd like to talk directly with you about the 3/4 ton mod, if you want to give it a shot. It does work! Sorry for the book.

Pauleo · Post by **Pauleo** » Sun Oct 09, 2005 4:47 pm

snocat1 wrote:Went and got tires for my truck. the service rep said my idler arm needs to be replaced. i've have 60,000 miles on my cc. Was wondering if any one has replaced theres yet?

Had my idler & pitman arms replaced at 50k.

a2b · Post by **a2b** » Mon Oct 10, 2005 7:06 am

yep, i replaced mine about 15k. of course i was off roading mine like no tomorrow. it was pretty easy to do. i got a spicer model at napa.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Mon Oct 10, 2005 8:12 am

Another good replacement idler arm worth mentioning is the MOOG enhanced design problem solver part # K6251T, which is for 94-04 S10 4x4's. My first idler arm was replaced @ 35k miles under warranty with a new GM piece, but even that one now @ 64k miles is starting to show signs of loosening up. The factory idler arm on my SS failed at 15k miles, so I decided to get a MOOG enhanced design problem solver and it has worked great for me.

This idler arm is nearly twice the size of the stock GM piece!

I now have 54k miles on my SS, which includes a lot of road racing, and the new MOOG part still has no play in it.

I am very happy with the design and performance of their parts, and will be replacing the stock GM crap with the MOOG part. This part is sold @ Summit under part # MOG-K6251T for $40.39.

Steve

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Jan 10, 2007 5:30 pm

More on a fullsize parts upgrade: How To: Full Size Idler and Pitman Arm Install (with pics)

I installed a NAPA replacement. It is beefier than stock. That is likely what I will install when , or if the idler arm wears. I think it all comes down to adequite lubrication. Regular maintenance. The environmental conditions and usage may be contributing factors as well.

S-10CREWCAB.NET

idler arm is out

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