Has anybody tried to use this 2" lift on a crew cab S-10? I want a suspension lift but I don't want 5-6 inches. And I hate body lifts.
Any help would be appreciated.
Alan
Superlift K464
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F9K9
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welcome to the site 
The general consensus is that the 2" sl is not a good investment but will let others with more knowledge explain why.
From personal experience I can tell you that some good shackles and a torsion bar crank is about the same thing. However, you will run into issues with the TB crank.
What is it that you dislike about a BL?
The general consensus is that the 2" sl is not a good investment but will let others with more knowledge explain why.
From personal experience I can tell you that some good shackles and a torsion bar crank is about the same thing. However, you will run into issues with the TB crank.
What is it that you dislike about a BL?
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Welcome apcrews10
Why is it you don't want a 5-6 inch suspension llift and you don't like a Body Lift? If the suspension lift is a money issue then your best option is a body lift with a 1" T bar crank and a 1" shackle. Stay away from the 2" superlift. In my opinion your best bet is to go with the 6" Superlift or the BDS lift. It's a little pricey but you won't regret it.
Steve
Why is it you don't want a 5-6 inch suspension llift and you don't like a Body Lift? If the suspension lift is a money issue then your best option is a body lift with a 1" T bar crank and a 1" shackle. Stay away from the 2" superlift. In my opinion your best bet is to go with the 6" Superlift or the BDS lift. It's a little pricey but you won't regret it.
Steve
[size=75][color=blue]2003 S-10 crew cab[/color][/size]
[size=75][color=red]6in superlift[/color][/size]
[size=75][color=red]6in superlift[/color][/size]
Well I use my truck alot on the farm and I don't want to get rid of or modify my tow hooks in anyway that would make them weaker. I use them ALOT! I also use my rear bumper and hitch even more. I will think about the 6" superlift but only if I can find someone to install it. I don't want to even think about trying to do this on my own. Money is not an option.
If money is not a problem do the 6" Superlift. Your tow hooks, your hitch all moves up with the truck on a SL so none of that is an issue. But even if you did want to do the body lift there is an easy fix for moving the tow hooks and the rear hitchand keeping everything strong. Read different threads on this site, guys have done it all the time. There area a lot of members on this site that have done this mod, as far as a bodylift. I am sure they will answer you and give you lots of info. Good luck with whatever you decide to do. Be patient and ask lots of questions on this site, there is a lot of great experience here and you won't be steered wrong.
Steve
Steve
[size=75][color=blue]2003 S-10 crew cab[/color][/size]
[size=75][color=red]6in superlift[/color][/size]
[size=75][color=red]6in superlift[/color][/size]
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F9K9
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If you do decide on some sort of lift, let me throw in my two cents on a BL. Your stock tow hooks can remain with minor trimming on the lower valance OR simply get some first generation S series hooks out of a salvage yard and they will extend below the valance
There is no real answer for the rear bumper hitch and I am sure you know alot more than I do about what is needed around a farm in the towing department
I do know that I am not a fan about bumper towing unless it is for hauling a lawn tractor into a shop for service. Regular GM hitches or any other S-series part is available at greatly reduced prices on the web since the demise of the truck.
IMHO I prefer the frame mounted hitch and with six holes drilled before mounting a GM hitch you can move it up to match the BL and have room for rear tow hooks or additional back up lights.
It's all just food for thought, explore your options, ask questions, do a few searches and most of all, wait 4-5 days for our unofficial Crew Cab "Mod Guru" to return from a much deserved vacation
Good Luck
Reed
There is no real answer for the rear bumper hitch and I am sure you know alot more than I do about what is needed around a farm in the towing department
I do know that I am not a fan about bumper towing unless it is for hauling a lawn tractor into a shop for service. Regular GM hitches or any other S-series part is available at greatly reduced prices on the web since the demise of the truck.
IMHO I prefer the frame mounted hitch and with six holes drilled before mounting a GM hitch you can move it up to match the BL and have room for rear tow hooks or additional back up lights.
It's all just food for thought, explore your options, ask questions, do a few searches and most of all, wait 4-5 days for our unofficial Crew Cab "Mod Guru" to return from a much deserved vacation
Good Luck
Reed
[size=75][b]"For those who have fought for it, [i][color=red]FR[/color][color=white]EE[/color][color=blue]DOM[/color][/i] has a taste that the protected will never know."
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go big! I have the sl 6" and love it. I also have the pa bl and love it to. You can mod the front valance to keep the hooks and i didn't lift my rear bumper with the body lift . i filled the gap with some black cove base molding from home depot. look through the threads on these lifts. there is alot of info here and if you take your time and read up you will learn alot . good luck with the project. and welcom to the site.
2001 cc 2" pa body lift traded
2004 cc zr5 2" pa body lift 6" super lift 2" rear shackle and tb crank traded for a v-max Silverado
2006 V-max cc
2001 ex cab 4x4 ls work truck rufff country 2" lift sold
2012 silverado WT 2wd
2004 cc zr5 2" pa body lift 6" super lift 2" rear shackle and tb crank traded for a v-max Silverado
2006 V-max cc
2001 ex cab 4x4 ls work truck rufff country 2" lift sold
2012 silverado WT 2wd
I agree with all points above
Like Steve said, if money is no object, and you want a real good looking truck, go SuperLift. Bear in mind that you'll need new tires, and possibly a gear ratio change (you don't want to be running 235/75/15's with 6 extra inches of lift).
The BL, which is what I have, is a good alternative. You're not voiding any warranties on the truck, including suspension. It doesn't help alot with ground clearance, but it does allow you to run 30's or 31's which can help increase clearance...
As for your towing hooks, I know Hobie (a2b) just mounted his under the frame instead of inside (he had the regular horizontal towing hooks). This didn't affect strength at all, and the hooks came out right below his front valence. I have the older generation hooks like F9K9, which work very well, and I think are just as strong (mine have been used several times to yank a stuck vehicle out of the mud). And they mount below the frame as well.
In most cases, like F9K9 said, you can just drill new holes lower on the hitch mounts to move the hitch up.
Also, from what I've heard on this forum, the 2" suspension lift is nothing more than a glorified extreme torsion bar crank with a few new pieces of hardware. It's supposed to be hard on your front CV joints and ball joints...
Consider this:
2" suspension lift
Pro's: Increases ground clearance in front of vehicle. Don't have to move hitches, tow hooks, or nerf bars.
Cons: Costs over $400 (atleast where I've seen it), causes premature wear of front suspension components. In most cases it must be professionally installed
2" body lift
Pro's: Allows running larger tires to increase ground clearance. Does not void any stock warranties that I know of. Costs as little as $120 in some places (I think that's the lowest I've seen). Can be installed by someone mechanically inclined with the help of a friend in a saturday.
Con's: Does not increase ground clearance(atleast not with just the body lift). You have to lift your hitch, nerf bars, and brush guard to line up with the new body height.
If I've missed anything, someone please correct me or add to this
Hope this helps
Like Steve said, if money is no object, and you want a real good looking truck, go SuperLift. Bear in mind that you'll need new tires, and possibly a gear ratio change (you don't want to be running 235/75/15's with 6 extra inches of lift).
The BL, which is what I have, is a good alternative. You're not voiding any warranties on the truck, including suspension. It doesn't help alot with ground clearance, but it does allow you to run 30's or 31's which can help increase clearance...
As for your towing hooks, I know Hobie (a2b) just mounted his under the frame instead of inside (he had the regular horizontal towing hooks). This didn't affect strength at all, and the hooks came out right below his front valence. I have the older generation hooks like F9K9, which work very well, and I think are just as strong (mine have been used several times to yank a stuck vehicle out of the mud). And they mount below the frame as well.
In most cases, like F9K9 said, you can just drill new holes lower on the hitch mounts to move the hitch up.
Also, from what I've heard on this forum, the 2" suspension lift is nothing more than a glorified extreme torsion bar crank with a few new pieces of hardware. It's supposed to be hard on your front CV joints and ball joints...
Consider this:
2" suspension lift
Pro's: Increases ground clearance in front of vehicle. Don't have to move hitches, tow hooks, or nerf bars.
Cons: Costs over $400 (atleast where I've seen it), causes premature wear of front suspension components. In most cases it must be professionally installed
2" body lift
Pro's: Allows running larger tires to increase ground clearance. Does not void any stock warranties that I know of. Costs as little as $120 in some places (I think that's the lowest I've seen). Can be installed by someone mechanically inclined with the help of a friend in a saturday.
Con's: Does not increase ground clearance(atleast not with just the body lift). You have to lift your hitch, nerf bars, and brush guard to line up with the new body height.
If I've missed anything, someone please correct me or add to this
Hope this helps
--Walt
2001 S-10 CrewCab - Retired...
2001 S-10 CrewCab - Retired...
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F9K9
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wamason wrote:..............If I've missed anything, someone please correct me or add to this
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adrenalnjunky
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Let the Corrections commencewamason wrote:You have to lift your hitch,....
If I've missed anything, someone please correct me or add to this
Hope this helps
I didn't raise my hitch - I felt safer knowing I am towing from the correct holes in the hitch and the frame. Plus my hitch wouldn't let me move it upwards - I had a Class 3 hidden hitch round bar hitch anyway - so now it looks normal instead of being hidden, but I dont think it looks terribly out of place where it is.
[size=75]Thanks, CHRIS
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
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F9K9
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A very minor point and I probably should not even mention it but, I willadrenalnjunky wrote:
Let the Corrections commence
I didn't raise my hitch - I felt safer knowing I am towing from the correct holes in the hitch and the frame. Plus my hitch wouldn't let me move it upwards - I had a Class 3 hidden hitch round bar hitch anyway - so now it looks normal instead of being hidden, but I dont think it looks terribly out of place where it is...........................
I was merely referring to a GM hitch which is a three piece unit. The hidden hitch is a lot more appealing to the eye than the GM one. I believe the hidden hitch is one piece unit in which you would have no options to raise it, outside of drilling new holes in the frame.
The GM hitch looks horrible after the BL and moving the horizontal part up 1.5" (cannot go the full 2" due to lack of room on the two end vertical pieces of the GM hitch) does not weaken anything!
Of course all this is moot since the man does his towing with a ball on his bumper and He should know what works for him.
[size=75][b]"For those who have fought for it, [i][color=red]FR[/color][color=white]EE[/color][color=blue]DOM[/color][/i] has a taste that the protected will never know."
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Actually that's more of an additionadrenalnjunky wrote: Let the Corrections commence
I didn't raise my hitch - I felt safer knowing I am towing from the correct holes in the hitch and the frame. Plus my hitch wouldn't let me move it upwards - I had a Class 3 hidden hitch round bar hitch anyway - so now it looks normal instead of being hidden, but I dont think it looks terribly out of place where it is.
--Walt
2001 S-10 CrewCab - Retired...
2001 S-10 CrewCab - Retired...