TBAR crank VS 2" Suspension lift
Moderator: F9K9
TBAR crank VS 2" Suspension lift
I understand the 2" suspension lift that is out for our trucks puts stress on the IFS and creates steeper half shalf angles. My question is doesn't the TBAR crank do the same thing? I just see some of the same concerns with doing this for instance CV failures and boots slinging grease. Anyone running the 2" suspension lift and like it?
[size=75]2005 Silverado Crew Cab Z71
SOLD! 2003 Red Chevy S-10 crewcab ZR5. 2" PA bodylift, 1.5" spacers, CB, Airshocks, 31" Mickey Thompson MTX Tires, raised step bars, Flowmaster super 40 with 2.5" mandrel bent pipe from the Force II kit, gm vent visors, 12 volt bed outlet, airbox mod, zr5 tonneau, Bilstein shocks.[/size]
SOLD! 2003 Red Chevy S-10 crewcab ZR5. 2" PA bodylift, 1.5" spacers, CB, Airshocks, 31" Mickey Thompson MTX Tires, raised step bars, Flowmaster super 40 with 2.5" mandrel bent pipe from the Force II kit, gm vent visors, 12 volt bed outlet, airbox mod, zr5 tonneau, Bilstein shocks.[/size]
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HenryJ
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The t-bar crank will only turn the bars to the maximum alignable Z height dimension.
The 2" suspension lift kits add new keys , softer CV boots and upper a-arms to go 2" beyond this. The worry here is over extension of the CV, and or binding during harsh use.
I really wish that people would not think of the t-bar crank as such. Think of it as adjustment to the upper specified limit.
As for problems with the CV boots. There have been those with leakage and no adjustments made. Mine is an early 2001 model and I have adjusted my bars. I have had no problems. This makes it difficult to blame any one thing for the boot problems. There may be an environmental contributor, or perhaps it is an issue with the boots themselves. Who knows? It is not a common enough problem to really become of major concern.
It is easy to blame a modification, or adjustment for a problem that arises. With respect to cranking the t-bars it is rational to think that the adjustment contributed to the failure should one arise, but would it have happened with no adjustment? You can bet if you lower it back down the leakage will not go away.
Part of the problem is those darn compression clamps. There is just no good way for them to offer a positive clamping force. Heck a plastic ziptie can make a better seal sometimes. Granted it does not have to offer much clamping force. It should just assist the boot in retention. As long as no grease gets between the boot and shaft, there are usually no problems.
The 2" suspension lift kits add new keys , softer CV boots and upper a-arms to go 2" beyond this. The worry here is over extension of the CV, and or binding during harsh use.
I really wish that people would not think of the t-bar crank as such. Think of it as adjustment to the upper specified limit.
As for problems with the CV boots. There have been those with leakage and no adjustments made. Mine is an early 2001 model and I have adjusted my bars. I have had no problems. This makes it difficult to blame any one thing for the boot problems. There may be an environmental contributor, or perhaps it is an issue with the boots themselves. Who knows? It is not a common enough problem to really become of major concern.
It is easy to blame a modification, or adjustment for a problem that arises. With respect to cranking the t-bars it is rational to think that the adjustment contributed to the failure should one arise, but would it have happened with no adjustment? You can bet if you lower it back down the leakage will not go away.
Part of the problem is those darn compression clamps. There is just no good way for them to offer a positive clamping force. Heck a plastic ziptie can make a better seal sometimes. Granted it does not have to offer much clamping force. It should just assist the boot in retention. As long as no grease gets between the boot and shaft, there are usually no problems.
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HenryJ wrote:The t-bar crank will only turn the bars to the maximum alignable Z height dimension.
The 2" suspension lift kits add new keys , softer CV boots and upper a-arms to go 2" beyond this. The worry here is over extension of the CV, and or binding during harsh use.
I'm a little confused about the 2" suspension lift still. If the kit adds new keys to go beyond the tbar crank then can you obtain near 4" of lift from the kit? The reason I say this is some people are getting near 2" of lift from the tbar crank. My other question is if the kit truly lifts the vehicle only 2" and includes new upper a-arms then why wouldn't this kit be safer or better than just doing a tbar crank?
[size=75]2005 Silverado Crew Cab Z71
SOLD! 2003 Red Chevy S-10 crewcab ZR5. 2" PA bodylift, 1.5" spacers, CB, Airshocks, 31" Mickey Thompson MTX Tires, raised step bars, Flowmaster super 40 with 2.5" mandrel bent pipe from the Force II kit, gm vent visors, 12 volt bed outlet, airbox mod, zr5 tonneau, Bilstein shocks.[/size]
SOLD! 2003 Red Chevy S-10 crewcab ZR5. 2" PA bodylift, 1.5" spacers, CB, Airshocks, 31" Mickey Thompson MTX Tires, raised step bars, Flowmaster super 40 with 2.5" mandrel bent pipe from the Force II kit, gm vent visors, 12 volt bed outlet, airbox mod, zr5 tonneau, Bilstein shocks.[/size]
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coreylubahn
The upper A-arms (longer) are only going to help correct for alignment issues I'm sure and the fact of the matter is you're "lifting" the front exactly the same as you would with a really severe t-bar crank, which puts extra stress on the CVs, etc. Then just adding the longer upper arms to allow for a proper alignment to be done. The A-arms don't help correct anything with the CVs, the only way to not put them in more stress is to lower the complete differential right along with the wheels (which is exactly what basically ever other lift kit does).
Ok, that helps clear that up. I wonder if any companies have CV's that can handle more extreme angles better. I've seen them for other vehicles but I haven't seen any for our trucks.coreylubahn wrote:The upper A-arms (longer) are only going to help correct for alignment issues I'm sure and the fact of the matter is you're "lifting" the front exactly the same as you would with a really severe t-bar crank, which puts extra stress on the CVs, etc. Then just adding the longer upper arms to allow for a proper alignment to be done. The A-arms don't help correct anything with the CVs, the only way to not put them in more stress is to lower the complete differential right along with the wheels (which is exactly what basically ever other lift kit does).
[size=75]2005 Silverado Crew Cab Z71
SOLD! 2003 Red Chevy S-10 crewcab ZR5. 2" PA bodylift, 1.5" spacers, CB, Airshocks, 31" Mickey Thompson MTX Tires, raised step bars, Flowmaster super 40 with 2.5" mandrel bent pipe from the Force II kit, gm vent visors, 12 volt bed outlet, airbox mod, zr5 tonneau, Bilstein shocks.[/size]
SOLD! 2003 Red Chevy S-10 crewcab ZR5. 2" PA bodylift, 1.5" spacers, CB, Airshocks, 31" Mickey Thompson MTX Tires, raised step bars, Flowmaster super 40 with 2.5" mandrel bent pipe from the Force II kit, gm vent visors, 12 volt bed outlet, airbox mod, zr5 tonneau, Bilstein shocks.[/size]
Your quote always makes me laugh cause I know it's true and I would love to go big. It's always a matter of money though. My dilemma is that on top of the price of the lift I would definately have to change my gears cause I have the 3.42's. I've been quoted a thousand dollars per axle to change them. I also tow with my CC. So I want some lift a little beyond the 2" body lift and put some 30's on and see how it looks. I'm doing the lift mainly for looks.jeggers wrote:go big 6" sl
[size=75]2005 Silverado Crew Cab Z71
SOLD! 2003 Red Chevy S-10 crewcab ZR5. 2" PA bodylift, 1.5" spacers, CB, Airshocks, 31" Mickey Thompson MTX Tires, raised step bars, Flowmaster super 40 with 2.5" mandrel bent pipe from the Force II kit, gm vent visors, 12 volt bed outlet, airbox mod, zr5 tonneau, Bilstein shocks.[/size]
SOLD! 2003 Red Chevy S-10 crewcab ZR5. 2" PA bodylift, 1.5" spacers, CB, Airshocks, 31" Mickey Thompson MTX Tires, raised step bars, Flowmaster super 40 with 2.5" mandrel bent pipe from the Force II kit, gm vent visors, 12 volt bed outlet, airbox mod, zr5 tonneau, Bilstein shocks.[/size]
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coreylubahn
I did about an inch of t-bar crank, put 1.5 inch Daystars in the back and did the PA 2" BL for a total of ~3 inches of lift all around (my back was almost .5" lower than the front when I started all this) and then I stuck some 15X8 wheels with 3.75" BS to give it a wider look and for now (for money reasons as you so elegantly put it) I have the stock tires and I love the look of my truck (of course I'd love to go bigger but that requires money and I don't have it to spend now). I am excited to get some new tires once these wear out (I'm gonna go with 31X10.50s I think) so that will put me almost another inch higher. But if you're just doing it for looks and don't want to spend a lot the PA + "mild" t-bar crank + shackles for around $300 and 3 inches is hard to beat. Here's my truck with my setup:ace wrote:So I want some lift a little beyond the 2" body lift and put some 30's on and see how it looks. I'm doing the lift mainly for looks.
PS. I need to get some newer pictures as I've since taken the topper off...oh well...you get the idea...hope it helps!!
