Tires and stock wheels

coreylubahn · Post by **coreylubahn** » Mon Jan 17, 2005 7:19 am

Guys,

In determining how much money I need to save to get the funds for the SL 6", I am trying to add tire cost to the equation, but that got me thinking about wheels. I want new wheels, but would like to not wait that long to get the lift. So Superlift recommends 33X12.50 tires after the lift, but can those tires fit on my stock wheels? Also I believe they recommend a wheel with 5.5 to 6 inches of backspacing...what are the stockers? Would the tires (if they are even available) work on the stock rims? You guys are great for info, so help me out (and I'll cross my fingers for good luck that the answer is good...but if 32s are as big as I can go I guess that's okay too).

coreylubahn · Post by **coreylubahn** » Mon Jan 17, 2005 7:22 am

correction:

Superlift recommends:

33X10.50 tire (up to 32.7" actual diameter) with 5.5 to 6" backspace wheel or 275/70R tire (up to 32.4" actual diameter) with 5" backspace wheel.

8" wide wheel that is 15" to 17" in diameter.

So how does this fit in with our stock rims?

adrenalnjunky · Post by **adrenalnjunky** » Mon Jan 17, 2005 8:24 am

33 x 10.50 will fit on the stock wheels fine - have fun finding this size of tire though, as the 12.50's are more common and will cost a lot less. If you plan on doing wheels eventually, you can probably squeeze a set of 12.50's on your stock rims, but there are those that would advise against it. I don't really endorse it myself, but if it's a "tires now, and wheels in 2 months" kinda thing, I think you could get away with it.

if you go a 33x10.50 then you won't need new wheels. the stock wheels should work fine, although you will likely see some rubbing on the frame in the front if you don't put some spacers on.

adrenalnjunky · Post by **adrenalnjunky** » Mon Jan 17, 2005 8:30 am

Ok--I take that back
tirerack.com pricing:

33x10.50x15
BFG AT - $125.00
BFG MT - $144.00

33x12.50x15
BFG AT - $128.00
BFG MT - $152.00

Pricing wasnt as bad as I thought - but you have a lot more selection out there for the 33x12.50
Dunlop Radial Mud Rovers for $110 in 33x12.50 isn't a bad bang for the buck, if you can keep them balanced.

coreylubahn · Post by **coreylubahn** » Mon Jan 17, 2005 10:03 am

Okay, so that is good news, at least the tire they recommend would work with my stock wheels (6" of Backspace if I remember right). How about 32X11.50s? Is 11.50 too big for a 7" wheel? My guess is that it is, but I figure I might as well ask, and inch out for an inch up might be worth it.

adrenalnjunky · Post by **adrenalnjunky** » Mon Jan 17, 2005 2:03 pm

I think you could make the 11.50 work on the stock rim. the big things to consider are what are you going to be doing in the truck? If it's a street queen, then don't worry about the 12.50's if you are capable of checking and maintaining your air pressures.

The biggest problem I hear of (And I have little personal experience, so I'm just repeating what I have read) is runnig too wide a tire on too narrow a rim when you have lowered air pressure for better off-road or mud bogging performance. It can tend to pop a bead off when the tire is under a load and all.

I think you should be ok with the 11.50 on the stock setup under most conditions.

If you could source a cheap set of firebird or camaro rims that are the 16x8 models , then you could run a 265/75, 285/70 or 285/75 sizes with no worries - the backspacing would still probably require a spacer on both ends though. Most of us already are running at least one set of spacers though.

Either that or you can pay about $50 a rim for some 8" wide black steel rockcrawlers for your 15's with the backspacing you need.

coreylubahn · Post by **coreylubahn** » Mon Jan 17, 2005 2:11 pm

Yeah, I thought about going the rock crawler route.

As for purpose, it is basically a daily driver what I want to look more off-road. It is used to tow my aluminium boat to the water a bunch in the summer. I might like to try doing a little off road, but when I look at the pictures of these guys rockcrawling, etc. that is not what I would be doing. I can easily check up on air pressures if that would mean that I could run 12.50s until I could afford some better rims (as long as they wouldn't rub requiring spacers...then the money goes up again).

I guess at this point I'm really considering going 33X10.50 BFG ATs on stock wheels. All the reviews of that tire seemed great (and I'd love to go MTs but I'm afraid of the noise they'd make on the highway). Going 10.50s will keep my weight down some so the power won't go completely to crapola, and then maybe down the road I could upgrade again and get new wheels and bigger tires. This is I think probably my best bet.

Any thoughts anyone?

adrenalnjunky · Post by **adrenalnjunky** » Mon Jan 17, 2005 2:17 pm

well, my last 2 cents -- and is it just you and me today - seems like no one has posted anything but us today -

I like the BFG AT -- have about 8K on mine now and they're nice in almost all weather conditions, and have good grip offroad.

My dad loves the Dueler AT Revos. But there are a kabillion "What tire" threads out there, and I'm sure you've found them.

jeff024 · Post by **jeff024** » Mon Jan 17, 2005 5:20 pm

other tires to think about ProComps and Nittos and I was just wondering what gears you have 3.42s or the 3.73s ?NITTOS

PROCOMP

FIRESTONES rate very high at tirerack

coreylubahn · Post by **coreylubahn** » Mon Jan 17, 2005 5:50 pm

I have the 3.73s with the G80 locker. I think that the power drop, while bad, hopefully won't be terrible...but we'll just have to wait and see I guess. Hopefully I will be doing all this in the next couple of months (I'm cancelling the extended warranty I bought and putting that money towards the lift...so that speeds up my savings curve a little bit).

bubaloo1983 · Post by **bubaloo1983** » Mon Jan 17, 2005 8:18 pm

you should be fine with stock wheels and spacers if you dont want to waste money. i ran 33x10.50s on stock wheels with 2 inch spacers up front without any rubbing on the frame ect. the fender was a different story though

and that was with 7 inches of lift which is what the superlift gives you after a t bar crank.

coreylubahn · Post by **coreylubahn** » Mon Jan 17, 2005 9:07 pm

bubaloo1983 wrote:i ran 33x10.50s on stock wheels with 2 inch spacers up front without any rubbing on the frame ect. the fender was a different story though

Well if there is lots of fender rubbing WITH 2 inch spacers why and the world would Superlift recommend a 33X10.50 tire on a rim with 5.5 to 6 inches of spacing (stocks have 6 inches of BS right?)? It would seem to reason that they would want to recommend a wheel/tire combo that fits and doesn't rub (without the addition of anything else....like 2" spacers, which even then you say rub). No I'm doubting I have this all figured out just yet.

Back to thinking.........

bubaloo1983 · Post by **bubaloo1983** » Tue Jan 18, 2005 1:17 am

im not sure hwo people dont rub on the fenders with lifts at first. i origianlly drove out of the shop i got my TM from and rubbed like a mofo!

i had 7 inches of lift and 32. 1150 tires. and it was micromillimetere from the fender lip on turns. ( that fender lip is not there anymore

) and any bumb on a turn would scrape like you wouldnt believe. so i really am not sure how people run big tires without cutting on s-10 ect.i mean im running 35s now without rubbing ( unless im wheeling hard offraod) but i had to cut my fenders like hell. i took a good 2 inches off for sure. so im not sure what to recomend if you dont want to rub but i dont wish what happened to me on anyone. you spend 3000 grand on lifts tires ect and you drive out and rub! its not a very nice feeling after all your money is in the shitter. but good luck anyway!

coreylubahn · Post by **coreylubahn** » Tue Jan 18, 2005 7:04 am

bubaloo1983 wrote:i dont wish what happened to me on anyone. you spend 3000 grand on lifts tires ect and you drive out and rub! its not a very nice feeling after all your money is in the shitter. but good luck anyway!

Yeah this is exactly what I want to avoid. Also I am starting to wonder if 10.50s would look like pizza cutters after a 6" lift. I really don't want to drop money for the lift, and then rims (needed if I want tires bigger than 10.50 I am afraid) and tires and then have huge rubbing issues (but have it look good standing still). Maybe my money would be better invested doing shackles/tbar/BL and getting an HPIII and an exhaust and only running 30s or 31s. I just don't know anymore.

jeff024 · Post by **jeff024** » Tue Jan 18, 2005 1:33 pm

Is your truck a daily driver and if so how many miles per day do you drive?

coreylubahn · Post by **coreylubahn** » Tue Jan 18, 2005 1:44 pm

Yeah it is for the most part (in the summer I ride the motorcycle a fair amount, but truck is only 4 wheeled vehicle). As for how much I really only drive to/from work (like 15 miles round trip in town) and run errands. It does get some miles pulling the fishing boat, but even then we're only talking like maybe 50 round trip. Put it this way, I've had it exactly a year and a half and it has 22,000 on the clock. What do you have in mind?

jeff024 · Post by **jeff024** » Tue Jan 18, 2005 2:25 pm

was just wondering because with a lift and running 33s your gas milage will go to sh*t. I went up to a 30in and 2in BL and lost almost 3mile per gal

justinlee5 · Post by **justinlee5** » Tue Jan 18, 2005 6:53 pm

I have the TM lift with 31s and my mpg is about 16 on highway and maybe 10 in the city. I changed from 32 MT to 31 AT and noticed an improved change in handling and no rubbing. Now after all of the cost of the lift and trying to play catch up with performance, I can't afford my sub and new head unti. Just my 2 grand err.. 2 cents.