Steering wheel not straight

kbd2000 · Post by **kbd2000** » Tue Aug 10, 2004 4:49 pm

Anyone know how to correct the steering wheel alignment after a body lift. It now has to be turned to the right some to go straight...Not a big problem but it bugs me!

Thanks!

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Aug 10, 2004 7:27 pm

The bodylift should not have affected the steering wheel center position.

Did you crank the T-bars? That could change things.

I'm pretty sure that you need an alignment if the steering wheel is not centered. The only way to center it is to adjust the two outer tie rods. It really needs to be on the machine to set the toe as they are adjusted.

kbd2000 · Post by **kbd2000** » Tue Aug 10, 2004 7:38 pm

I did crank the T-bars awhile back and had an alightment. That was over a year ago and it wasn't off as bad as it now. So do you think if I get it aligned again that will fix it?

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Aug 10, 2004 7:54 pm

kbd2000 wrote:... So do you think if I get it aligned again that will fix it?

Yes, it will. Just tell them the wheel needs to be centered.

You might try cross rotating the front tires first. Never know it might help. Of course check the tire pressures too.

You are talking about a 2" PA bodylift, with no steering extension , right?

kbd2000 · Post by **kbd2000** » Tue Aug 10, 2004 8:13 pm

You are talking about a 2" PA bodylift, with no steering extension , right?

Yep and i'll check the pressures also. Thank you for all the info!

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Aug 11, 2004 3:49 am

Hopefully this is not a sign that something else is going bad.
First thing that comes to mind is a ball joint or wheel bearing.

If you have a hydraulic bottle jack, you could jack up one wheel at a time, under the a-arm as close to the spindle as possible. Then grab the tire and push/pull to feel for any slack.

a2b · Post by **a2b** » Wed Aug 11, 2004 10:50 am

ya, the body lift doesnt effect steering in any manner. sounds like it pullin....start with rotating your tires

kbd2000 · Post by **kbd2000** » Wed Aug 11, 2004 12:39 pm

Hopefully this is not a sign that something else is going bad.
First thing that comes to mind is a ball joint or wheel bearing.

I hope thats not the case but it is under warranty so maybe I should have them check it out. It is making a really loud clunking noise when parking or leaving the parking space. Even with the wheels only about halfway to lock. I looked at the cv boots and they seem to be okay. I dont suppose you know what that could be?

ya, the body lift doesnt effect steering in any manner. sounds like it pullin....start with rotating your tires

It doesn't seem to be pulling one way or the other when driving.

barch97 · Post by **barch97** » Wed Aug 11, 2004 12:43 pm

whoa whoa whoa... you guys telling me that the steering wheel is supposed to be straight?

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Aug 11, 2004 12:46 pm

Any good alignment shop will assess the ball joints and wheel bearings as well as all the other steering components prior to setting the alignment. Good parts are crucial to the alignment being correct.

The dealer generally sends the truck out to an alignment shop to verify the need for replacement parts under warranty, and most shops will assess it for you for a minimum charge if any.

It should be no charge to find the problem, and then they will seek reimbursement throught the dealer for warranty work on the alignment after the new parts are installed, if needed.

a2b · Post by **a2b** » Fri Aug 13, 2004 3:29 am

barch97 wrote:whoa whoa whoa... you guys telling me that the steering wheel is supposed to be straight?

Jigg · Post by **Jigg** » Mon Aug 13, 2007 6:29 am

Ressurecting this thread from the depths...

My steering wheel all of the sudden is crooked. My truck drives completely straight down the road, doesn't pull at all, i can let go of the steering wheel and it'll stay between the lines... the wheel is just cocked to the right about 20º.

My last alignment was like a year ago or so, so nothing's been touched since then, and i just noticed it this weekend, so i tend to think it happened quick.

Could this be indicative of a bad steering box? Thinking maybe i jumped a tooth on the gear or something, i really have no idea how it could happen all of the sudden.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Mon Aug 13, 2007 11:20 am

Some things that can cause a crooked steering wheel "if" it was straight before:

Loose ,worn, or damaged ball joints, tir rods, pitman arm, or idler arm
Damaged (bent) tie rods
Loose tire rod adjuster sleeves
Damaged gear box (although not likely as there would be more symptoms)
Worn out "rag joint" steering coupler

Steve

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Aug 13, 2007 12:56 pm

Check the rear axle too. Busting a center bolt on a spring pack and slipping the rear axle could have you crab walking.

Jigg · Post by **Jigg** » Tue Aug 14, 2007 3:17 am

A few other symptoms as well (which is why i thought it might be the steering box):

-The steering wheel has a clicking feeling when i turn it 1" or so either way.

-I get a couple quick clunks when i have the wheel turned all the way to the right and turning slowly (the wheel's cocked to the right).

-Sometimes i have to wait a second to turn the wheel if i'm at a stop, as if it doesn't have enough pressure built up or something.

I'll check the leaf spring when i go to work, that's a good thought!

Thanks for the help guys!!!!!

Jigg · Post by **Jigg** » Tue Aug 14, 2007 12:04 pm

Centering pins are good.

Right now, i'm leaning towards replacing the intermediate shaft/steering box/pitman arm all at once and see where that gets me.... ugh.

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Aug 14, 2007 1:26 pm

The Idler and pitman arms are easy enough to check for slack. Have someone wiggle the steering and look for slack.
If those all look tight and there is no damage, the steering box is the next place to go.
Is yours stock or did you add a quicker ratio box?
I installed the ZQ8 box on mine.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Tue Aug 14, 2007 4:36 pm

HenryJ wrote:.......... Have someone wiggle the steering and look for slack..........

Henry/Brule is very good on such matters but, sometimes his explanations go over my head and other's heads

I have researched a lot on this in heep forums and others.

Look for a piece of your steering linkage to move before the wheels begin to move. Where you have movement or "slack" before the tire moves then that part that moves is your suspect culprit.

I've read to do it with engine off and engine on but, hopefully Brule has further thoughts on that.

Jigg · Post by **Jigg** » Tue Aug 14, 2007 6:10 pm

Yeah, i'm going to have to do that. Maybe i can get a buddy at work to help me out.

I have a spare idler and pitman arm sitting in the closet, so if it's one of those two i'll be fine. I'm getting a bit of vibration as well, but i have a feeling that's because my MT's are starting to wear down now.

I still have the stock box, i've read that the ZR2's have a unique steering box, so i don't know that i could go to a Zq8 box if i wanted to (which i definitely would, might as well upgrade if i'm going to change it).

My tie rods are still stock as well, so those are a possibility, however they seemed tight last time i checked.

I found the link to the cherokee steering shaft mod, which i might try as well... i dunno, i don't really feel like doing any of this right now, so i'm hoping it's just the idler arm crapping out on me.

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Aug 14, 2007 6:36 pm

Jigg wrote:...I found the link to the cherokee steering shaft mod, which i might try as well... i dunno, i don't really feel like doing any of this right now, so i'm hoping it's just the idler arm crapping out on me.

DON'T DO IT! IT IS NOT SAFE!
I was fully prepared to go that way and still have the shaft in the garage. This is before I found the pot joint behind the firewall. Three joints on a shaft unsupported is not advisable. I thought I flagged that thread here to let everyone know before someone got hurt.
STAY AWAY! You have been warned strongly. Here is the thread : Tight and responsive steering: Another How-To! (not advised)

Now find the thread here on the ZQ8 quick ratio box. I installed one on mine. It is nice , but not a huge difference. The stock crewcab box is 14:1 and I suspect the ZR2 box is the same. The ZQ8 box is 12.7:1. You gain about 1/2 a turn lock to lock. Not much , but noticeable. If you have the 16:1 box it makes a huge difference.
This is one of those mod requires-mod things. You may find the need to play with the pressure and volume of the power steering pump afterward, if not before. There is a whole thread on Power steering Pump Volume and Pressure Upgrades

Jigg · Post by **Jigg** » Tue Aug 14, 2007 6:47 pm

Wow, thanks for saving me the trouble!!!

I'll probably just buy a low mileage shaft off of s10warehouse. And if it's not that much of a difference, i'll probably just get a stock box again.

Thanks for the help guys!!! I really really appreciate it.