Any Other Mods Needed When Cranking T Bars to Max Z Height?

[CGRob]

I fielded this question over at s10forum.com. As you can imagine, not a whole lot of useful feedback was received:

Just wondering if I will need aftermarket UCA's or an upper ball joint flip to get my front end to realign back to spec after cranking the torsion bars up 1.5". I've seen a few S-10's in my area with cranked t-bars, and they seem to have excessive negative camber issues. Granted, they may have turned the bars more than 1.5", or not gotten an alignment, but I just want to make sure I don't have the same issues when I turn mine up.

I absolutely do not want to exceed 1.5" with my t-bar crank. I am only running 255/70-15's, and the only off-roading I do is on the beach and on dune trails. I'm just looking to gain a little more clearance between the front cross member and the sand when i get into trail ruts and the soft stuff. Function is more important than form for me, as we spend a lot of time on the beach with this truck.

So, for anyone here who has turned their T bars to max Z dimension specs., did your front end align back to factory tolerances without any other modifications?

Thanks!

Rob

[HenryJ]

Cranking to max z height should be fine. Worst case the caster will not make the bump and you will have to back the bars down to get specs in range. You may find it hard to get the 1.5". 1" might be more realistic? Results vary. Work with your alignment shop and it will be fine.

[CGRob]

That certainly sounds reasonable.

I was thinking that a ball joint flip would help free up a bit of adjustment since the UCA's would be maxed out, but I'm not sure I'm totally sold on the BJ flip. Seems to me that it could cause problems on the other end, letting the UCA's droop more before hitting the UCA stops, causing more extreme angles on the drive shafts and boots. I don't believe it would be worth all that trouble for what might amount to a half an inch.

Good point on working with the alignment technician too. Luckily, I am friends with the owner of our local Goodyear shop, so it won't be an issue getting the alignment dialed in just right.

Thanks for your input!

Rob

[Horsehammerr]

First you have to find an EXPERT ALIGNMENT man with his head OUT of his factory Specs. ass. I went MAX with mine and had to align it my self. Took a lot of trips under my truck but got it perfect and it worked great. Don't worry about caster, mine ended up with ZERO caster and was the best handleing it had ever been off road and Hiway. The main thing to remember is what works best for YOU. You are the driver no one else.

[HenryJ]

Personally, I would not exceed what can be aligned with the stock upper a-arms. Anything beyond that will exceed the angles that the axle shaft cv joints can handle. Those who have installed the 2" kits have had to at a minimum, go back and install all new boots to keep them on and whole. In the end they seem to give up and lower them, or swap for a solid axle.

[jedthrocornpone]

best thing I did was ditch the crimp-on boot clamp, only thing that would keep the boot on

to be fair I didn't have issues until I threw out my sway bar......

[CGRob]

JC,

What did you use to hold the boots on, regular hose clamps?

Might be worth doing just to prevent a boot failure and subsequent CV destruction. Once a little grit gets in those CV's they are done.

Rob

[jedthrocornpone]

It was a big hose/band clamp