Broken U-Joint

[green02crew]

Broke the U-Joint on my way home. Had to stop and pull the drive shaft and then put it in 4x4 to make it the last 2 miles.

After putting in a new U-Joint I need to refill for lost fluid. Now my question, is how much fluid is needed in the transfercase? Synthetic or regular ATF to refill? And I want to flush the current fluid out, any pics of the drain/fill points?

[HenryJ]

Here are the lubrication and capacities: GM Fluid Capacities and Lubricant Recommendations

It will be easy to see the fill and drain plugs on the back side of the transfercase. Give it plenty of time to drip and drain. No real need to "flush". I'd just stick with some Dextron III. There is no real advantage to exotic lubricants in this case.

[green02crew]

Sweet, a quart of ATF will do it! Thanks!

[JaVeRo]

With the Crew having an aluminum driveshaft, there is a chance that the aluminum yoke will not hold the new u-joint cap for very long. I had a new steel driveshaft made for my wife's 2001 and solved the problem on her truck.

James

[green02crew]

There's a 100% chance in my case. That is what caused this u-joint to fail! It was a replacement about 15k ago when the originals wore out. Cap fell right out this time apparently. Any solution other than a new driveshaft? I really don't want to have to get a new one. I don't drive this truck much at all. Maybe 5k a year.

[JaVeRo]

I'm just guessing you could have the yoke replaced but with it being aluminum, some of the shops may not be able to do it. Brule would know a lot more about that than me. As far as I'm concerned, the steel driveshaft was money well spent.

http://www.bvd.cc/
This is where I got mine built. It's about 90 miles from me but being in a rural area, it's at least 60 miles to anything. They reused the steel yoke that goes in the transfer case. I don't know if they ship stuff out or just local pickup.

James

[F9K9]

Do we know, for sure, the yokes are aluminum? If, they aren't a small tack weld on the caps will hold them. I know that the main shaft is aluminum.

[green02crew]

Well its back in for now. Nobody told me that a body lift would be worth its weight in gold when trying to fill the transfercase with fluid!

[F9K9]

Well its back in for now. Nobody told me that a body lift would be worth its weight in gold when trying to fill the transfercase with fluid!

[green02crew]

Now you show me that...

[killian96ss]

I still don't understand this topic. If you replace the factory u-joint with a high quality replacement and make sure the retaining clips are fully seated you should not have any problems for a long time. I've seen cheap u-joints loosen up quite a bit in just a few months, but the good ones always seem to last forever. Regardless of quality, if the wrong u-joint is installed or those clips are not properly seated, you will have problems. I don't see the driveshaft as being yhe problem. The aluminum drive shaft on the crew is actually a pretty nice one and it is lighter (less rotational mass). Precision U-joint makes nice greasable joints which last longer and can be flushed out after being submerged in mud or water

I have always wondered why my 05 ZR2 Blazer has a steel driveshaft? Maybe they are harder dent or bend?

Steve

[roadrunner]

My truck seems to go through more rear shaft joints than it should. I used to have trouble keeping them greased till I replaced the male stock replacements with dish-type female zerks that I can reach with my grease needle. And yes I have tried several different needles and gun ends on the male replacement zerks with little to no success. The angle and available room regardless the shaft position and angle is tight and poor at best. Now I can easily reach them with my needle after cleaning them out and grease them liberally as needed.

[F9K9]

Now you show me that...

Sorry.

Most part stores have them now but, I can't get much more than one complete transfer case, front and rear differential fluid change out of one. The tube starts slipping off the pump and whatever else the circling ducks can think of to go wrong.

You might not need more than that but, I'm a tad #### with swapping fluids after water crossings and would like to find something better but. not something that would be used for a fleet or commercially.

[roadrunner]

Sorry. Most part stores have them now but, I can't get much more than one complete transfer case, front and rear differential fluid change out of one. The tube starts slipping off the pump and whatever else the circling ducks can think of to go wrong.

Ummm Small hose clamp. Not a perfect solution and definitely don't over-tighten but it will extend the useable life of the pump/hose situation. If the fluids being transferred soften the tube perhaps replace it with a fuel/oil resistant hose?

[F9K9]

Might work

[rlrnr53]

Try using a small wire tie or corbin clampon the hose, I've had good luck with both.

[F9K9]

Try using a small wire tie or corbin clampon the hose, I've had good luck with both.

Both ideas would be superb if, I could remember to do it with a clean new pump! Other wise, I get PO and toss it and clean up my mess.

[green02crew]

killian96ss,
I don't know what caused my failure. The u-joints were Napa brand greasable. Nothing special. I am running them in all locations and this one failed. The rest appear fine. Maybe the joint was not to spec? I don't know. But the cap appeared to be the weak point as it was missing. Retaining clip was installed and had been for 1.5-2 years since I did the u-joints that long ago. Upon carrying a heavy load, I had a failure. I looked over the joint and one cap and retaining clip were gone.

[killian96ss]

Maybe there was nothing wrong with the u-joint. It sounds like one of the clips broke or fell out which would explain why the cap was missing. It is still possible the cap cracked, but that doesn't happen very often. Look very closely at all of your clips and make sure yhey are fully seated.

Steve