Next coolant change going back to the stock temp termostat?

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Wed Dec 17, 2008 6:37 pm

I don't get my truck warmed up in the winter driving to work 2.5 miles down hill. In cold weather wait too long for heat. With all my short trips wouldn't it be better to go from the 180 to the 195 fail safe thermostat?

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Dec 17, 2008 7:00 pm

It sure isn't going to hurt anything.
Mine still gets warm enough that I end up turning it down, so I am going to stick with 180.
I do have an engine block heater and cabin heater, so mine is warm when I jump in. That may make the difference in my case.

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Thu Dec 18, 2008 3:02 am

I don't see the 195 giving you much extra heat in 2.5 miles, It takes about that many for mine to get heat stock. An electric cabin heater might be your best investment.

YellowCrewCabber · Post by **YellowCrewCabber** » Thu Dec 18, 2008 10:13 am

Just curious. Do you folks let you trucks/vehicles warm up before you drive them? I have always been told by mechanics, automotive instructors, engine builders etc, etc. that you should allow your vehicles to warm up for at least 5 mins before driving. Especially in cold weather.

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Dec 18, 2008 10:18 am

I don't , but mine is kept warm.
It is a good idea to let them warm up a little, but newer oils are better at protecting during start-up and cold run. It is not as critical as it once was.

YellowCrewCabber · Post by **YellowCrewCabber** » Thu Dec 18, 2008 10:59 am

Do most of the northern climate trucks have the factory installed block heaters?

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Dec 18, 2008 11:06 am

Just those ordered with the cold climate package. It was an option. Mine did not come with it , I added one.
2001 the crew cab was test marketed in the NW.

YellowCrewCabber · Post by **YellowCrewCabber** » Thu Dec 18, 2008 11:27 am

I see. Thank you HenryJ

YellowCrewCabber · Post by **YellowCrewCabber** » Thu Dec 18, 2008 12:01 pm

HenryJ wrote:I don't , but mine is kept warm.
It is a good idea to let them warm up a little, but newer oils are better at protecting during start-up and cold run. It is not as critical as it once was.

Oil sludge??? I know of someone who recently had to replace his entire engine (02 Suburban?) because the drain back passages were so clogged the engine starved itself of oil. This vehicle is driven to school (3 mins away) and back home more thatn it is driven anywhere else. Maybe it was the oil they used or driving habits or the combination of both. Just saying. Isn't one reason of sludge build up is because of the engine not being allowed to run at normal operating temp long enough to "burn" the condesation out of the crankcase??

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Thu Dec 18, 2008 2:54 pm

YellowCrewCabber wrote:
HenryJ wrote:I don't , but mine is kept warm.
It is a good idea to let them warm up a little, but newer oils are better at protecting during start-up and cold run. It is not as critical as it once was.
Oil sludge??? I know of someone who recently had to replace his entire engine (02 Suburban?) because the drain back passages were so clogged the engine starved itself of oil. This vehicle is driven to school (3 mins away) and back home more thatn it is driven anywhere else. Maybe it was the oil they used or driving habits or the combination of both. Just saying. Isn't one reason of sludge build up is because of the engine not being allowed to run at normal operating temp long enough to "burn" the condesation out of the crankcase??

I was thinking on those lines...when I do go for a longer trip I would burn more crap out of the oil

I use Mobil 1 and change between 3000 and 4000 miles.

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Dec 18, 2008 3:42 pm

Oils are better, clearances tighter. We don't have the piston slop that used to be common.

You do need to burn the moisture out, but idling to warm things up is not going to do that. If that is your concern, add and engine block heater and keep the engine at 100 degrees to prevent condensation from forming.

If you have a very short trip on a cold engine daily, you are screwed. You need to drive far enough to heat up the exhaust system and blow the condensation out. The stainless steel system will help with the longevity.

Maybe use some Seafoam to treat the oil once in a while and prevent it from sludging up. Most times problems like that can be solved by using a quality oil and regular maintenance schedule.
If you are still having severe sludging problems, a more likely contributor would be intake manifold leaks.

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Sat Dec 20, 2008 3:52 am

I use all five Qts. of 5-30 Castrol GTX plus one pint of Marvel oil and a Wix filter every 3000 miles. I've got 117000 miles on my truck and zero engine problems. My daily work round trip is 140 miles with a constant average of 23 MPG. So far I can't Bitch.

roadrunner · Post by **roadrunner** » Sat Dec 20, 2008 1:30 pm

Similiar to Hammerr here. Use the "cheap" oil from Wal-Mart (Tech-2000) drain every 3k summer and shorten up to 1500-2000 winter depending on usage. I don't prewarm the engine. I start it let all the lights go out on the dash run a few more seconds then start out driving gently. No rabbit starts or heavy throttle operation till the temp gauge comes up at least half way to normal operating temps. 98k so far no engine problems.

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Tue Jul 07, 2009 2:25 am

What is the JET part # for the 180* thermostat, I know we need a vented one or some such thing ?

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Jul 07, 2009 4:39 am

Horsehammerr wrote:What is the JET part # for the 180* thermostat, I know we need a vented one or some such thing ?

Thermostats

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Tue Jul 07, 2009 12:11 pm

Sure would be simpler to just add the JET # 10171 to the mod page. But thanks anyway.