Tranny Issue

BADs Crew · Post by **BADs Crew** » Fri Oct 28, 2005 3:13 pm

I came home today and my better half informs me of a problem with tranny in the Blazer,. After warming it up well I took it for a spin and it seems to be sliping for the first 20 feet then locks up hard and chirp the wheels When driving it seams fine. I checked the fluid and it was maybe 2 pints low but clean with no burnt smell. I added fluid and drove it enough to warm it up than checked the level again. The fluid level is rite on the mark but I still have the problem. I noticed the temp gauge was reading around 140 degrees so I picked up a thermostat to install tomorrow. Would the engine temp cause this problem. It just seems funny that we just came into cold weather and the tranny starts having problems. The Blazer only travels maybe 3 miles a day but we do need it.

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Oct 28, 2005 3:21 pm

What year is it?

Might be worth a trip to the dealer to scan the transmission codes.
Most scanners won't retrieve pending transmission codes.
I forget what the fatal code number is, but the sun shell is prone to failure and may be a possible cause.

Many of the sensors do play a part in transmission performance. It could very well be that a malfunction in the ECTS , MAFS, IATS, or HO2S's could cause an error.

Get it checked out. The sad part is that these transmissions are expensive to replace. Plan on spending $1600 for one.

BADs Crew · Post by **BADs Crew** » Fri Oct 28, 2005 3:29 pm

The Blazer is a 95. We are going to replace it with a new Equinox but I didn't want to buy new until after the winter but I will before I spend a lot of money to fix it.

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Oct 28, 2005 3:38 pm

I am not a versed in this transmission as would be helpful here.

The trouble shooting diagnostics lists several checks for stuck valves and pistons. It might be worth adding some Seafoam TransTune. See if this helps the condition?

Even if it does, you might want to get a little more serious about that Equinox. That or plan to invest some money in the Blazer.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Fri Oct 28, 2005 3:44 pm

I know that I am not helping much in this area but, I remember our government 1at gen blazers having a similar problem and my "former" dealership quoted a price of something like $1500 to fix. Our fleet manager had them towed elsewhere and it was something like a fuse and repaired them for under $20

Blaze One · Post by **Blaze One** » Fri Oct 28, 2005 3:53 pm

I had the same problem with my blazer (1999 90k ) it will drive like that for a while and then a CEL will come on and then you get the bad news , "you need a new transmission " . Cost me 2300 canadian dollars . I don't know what it is , but i always hear of BLAZER tranny's blowing , but not as many S10 pickups . must be the extra wieght or something .
ps> make sure you find a place that will give you a good warrenty . and you may get lucky , and it may not be the tranny at all .

BADs Crew · Post by **BADs Crew** » Fri Oct 28, 2005 4:42 pm

I won the Blazer on eBay almost 5 years ago for $3700.00. It doesn't owe me nothing. I'm going to look around at new but I have been looking for a good used 4x2 S pick up. I will see what I come up with. Kelly blue book is $3700 now if I get rid of it before the tranny goes. Time to flip a coin I guess. Heads it stays Tails it goes.

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Oct 28, 2005 4:56 pm

Give the TransTune a shot. You never know it might free up the problem?
It can't hurt to try. NAPA carries the Seafoam product line.

Blaze One · Post by **Blaze One** » Fri Oct 28, 2005 5:05 pm

ha ha ha flip a coin , that is EXACTLY what i am thinking of doing , I want to lift my blazer but I don't want to put more money into it since i already have replace a tranny , and the one that is in there now is starting to act up too .

BADs Crew · Post by **BADs Crew** » Fri Oct 28, 2005 5:49 pm

HenryJ wrote:Give the TransTune a shot. You never know it might free up the problem?
It can't hurt to try. NAPA carries the Seafoam product line.

How do you put the stuff in the tranny and what does it do? Hey I'll try it if it can get the Blaze through the winter. After all I did just total detail it including the engine.

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Oct 28, 2005 6:30 pm

BADs Crew wrote:...How do you put the stuff in the tranny and what does it do?

Liquid tune-up. Add to the fluid through the dipstick tube. Follow the directions on the can.

Breaks down varnish, improves fluids properties, cures the common cold, etc.
J/k

I use it prior to a fluid exchange to clean things out, but it can be left in to cure an ailing transmission.

BADs Crew · Post by **BADs Crew** » Sat Oct 29, 2005 4:28 am

HenryJ wrote:
BADs Crew wrote:...How do you put the stuff in the tranny and what does it do?
Liquid tune-up. Add to the fluid through the dipstick tube. Follow the directions on the can.

Breaks down varnish, improves fluids properties, cures the common cold, etc.
J/k

I use it prior to a fluid exchange to clean things out, but it can be left in to cure an ailing transmission.

But if I use it with a full tranny it will over fill the fluids. Won't that cause problems?

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Oct 29, 2005 4:45 am

There is room

the whole bottle is only a pint.

I seriously doubt that you are that close to being overfull.

Transmission fluid is checked hot , since it does expand. If you are up to the full mark cold, then yes adding pint may have it overfilled. But if you are at or near the full mark when hot there is room.
From the add mark to the full mark is close to one quart. you can get away with adding close to a quart over the full mark before it starts purging from the transmissions vent tube.

If you are really worried about it you can add a tube to the "Turkey Baster" and suck out the appropriate amount of fluid from the dipstick tube.

Personally, I'm not too worried.

Hey if you don't want to mess with it, don't. I just thought it might be worth a shot

BADs Crew · Post by **BADs Crew** » Sat Oct 29, 2005 5:04 am

OK I'm there. Its worth a try before I spend a bunch of $$$$ on a truck I'm going to replace anyhow. I hate to by a new SUV rite before the winter snow and salts.

Pauleo · Post by **Pauleo** » Sat Oct 29, 2005 5:06 am

While we're on the subject of trannys, I had sort of an issue with mine. It would slip on in a blue moon, but since I had the tranny mount replaced, it hasn't done it. (Knock on wood!!!) It may still do under the right conditions I guess. I'm just wondering if the mount COULD have been the culprit.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Oct 29, 2005 5:18 am

I don't usually recommend a "liquid" anything rebuild, but the stuff does break down the internal varnish and since the trouble shooting diagnosis flow chart lists several "stuck" components to check, it really is worth a try. Might be a waste of a few dollars and if it is , I'm sorry.

I really don't see how the trans mount would offer a slip situation. Might have been a coincidence?

BADs Crew · Post by **BADs Crew** » Sat Oct 29, 2005 12:27 pm

O.K. I did the Sea Foam and ran it for 20 miles. I went by the shop I go to and my buddy took it rite in and did a power flush and refill. It seems to bite a little better now but still chirps the wheels when shifting into second. I am going to ride it out from here and see if she gets better or blows. If I have to I will have the tranny rebuilt so I don't have to take a brand new SUV through a winter rite after I get it. Thanks for all your help guys.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Oct 29, 2005 5:05 pm

HenryJ wrote:... really don't see how the trans mount would offer a slip situation. Might have been a coincidence?

Perhaps I was a bit hasty-

4L60E - TRANSMISSION

"Advisory Tip Sheet"

This information is provided for the non-transmission mechanic to help them identify the problem, know how much the job should cost and how to have the problem corrected. This information could save you hundreds even a thousand dollars or more.

This transmission has been in use since 1993 and is a fully electronic unit, but it shares many of the internal parts with the earlier non-electronic 700R4 / 4L60 version, witch’s been in use since 1982. This means most of the internal parts can be bought at a reasonable price.

Never allow a repair shop to give you a price on this transmission that isn’t a guaranteed price. This means don’t get a price plus hard parts. They know about what the parts will cost. The only part that should be extra is the transmission case, if it’s bad. GET THE PRICE BEFORE THE TRANSMISSION IS REMOVED FROM THE CAR OR TRUCK! If they can’t give you a price up front, you’re at the wrong shop.

When you have a problem with your transmission always check the fluid level and condition first. The fluid should be red, not dark brown or black. Smell the fluid to see if it smells like oil or has a burnt smell. If the fluid looks and smells good then the electronic parts should be diagnosed with an electronic scanner to see if any trouble codes are present. Sometimes the problem can be corrected by changing a sensor or solenoid without removing the transmission from the car.

Look in the transmission oil pan for debris (trash) from a clutch or metal part failure. If the fluid is black, smells burnt or has a large amount of debris in the pan, you’ve got a problem. The transmission will have to be removed and rebuilt. Always install a new torque converter when the transmission is rebuilt. Never try to save money by reusing a torque converter that is full of debris from a failed transmission. The 4L60E converter also has a clutch in it that could be bad.

When you have your 4L60E transmission rebuilt it’s always better to get your original transmission back. Because the 4L60E comes in everything from the S-10 pickup to the much larger Suburban. If you get the wrong 4L60E in your car or truck, the transmission won’t work correctly or last vary long. The calibrations are different for each type car or truck.

Place the transmission in drive position, when towing a trailer, not overdrive position. This transmission will only tow a light trailer and last. The 4L60E didn’t come in a one ton truck, because it isn’t strong enough for a one ton truck. If you need a one ton get one. Don’t tow a trailer that is too heavy for your car or truck.

There is no need for a shift kit in this transmission, because you can get better results by installing a larger servo or even a high performance servo. You can also install extra 3-4 clutches and other upgrades for an extra charge when it is rebuilt. The servo can be added at anytime without removing the transmission.

If you have a problem with the front seal, installing a new seal is a waste of time and money, it will only leak or blow off again. You must install a new seal, torque converter and rebuild the pump all at the same time to correct this front seal leak. This should cost about $335.00 plus tax.

The 4L60E transmission will not last in a 4-wheel drive truck that has oversize tires, unless both rear end ratios are changed to allow for the larger tire size.

Change your fluid and filter about every 20,000 miles. This is a preventive measure, not a fix for a problem.

As a general rule the better the warranty the higher the price. Most shops have a local warranty, meaning they do their own warranty work. A nation wide warranty will cost you a lot more. Don’t get a national warranty unless you’ll be out of town most of the time.

An electronic 4L60E transmission must have clean battery cables to work correctly, because this could cause low battery voltage. If your transmission goes into limp mode it will only have 2nd&3rd gear. If this happens for a reason other than a transmission problem, disconnect the battery to take it out of limp mode.

Never use a transmission additive that says it will stop leaks, because it will turn your seals to mush over time. If your 4L60E transmission has high mileage, don’t try to do a patch job, if you develop a problem have it rebuilt. Over 100,000 miles is high mileage.

If you don’t have a lot of experience installing transmissions, don’t buy the rebuilt transmission and install it yourself. If a shop rebuilds & installs your transmission, they will only charge you for one installation fee, regardless of how many times they have to take it back out. If you do the job, it’s your problem if the transmission is defective.

Some problems that can be mistaken as a transmission problem are motor mounts, fuel filter, spark plug wires, catalytic converter, fan clutch, U-joints and others. Never rebuild your transmission without an expert diagnosis first. When it’s done, you may still have the same problem.

gocntry · Post by **gocntry** » Sun Oct 30, 2005 5:31 am

HenryJ wrote:The 4L60E transmission will not last in a 4-wheel drive truck that has oversize tires, unless both rear end ratios are changed to allow for the larger tire size.

That Part Doesn't Sound Good

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Oct 30, 2005 6:39 am

gocntry wrote:
HenryJ wrote:The 4L60E transmission will not last in a 4-wheel drive truck that has oversize tires, unless both rear end ratios are changed to allow for the larger tire size.
That Part Doesn't Sound Good

Agreed. Why do you think I am doing what I can to compensate, short of the gear change.