Bravada axle - eliminating the split front axle shaft

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Tue Nov 06, 2012 12:07 am

Posts like this make me realize that I still have no clue about these trucks and thankful I haven't had any trouble yet.

What's the down side to the posi lock by a cable to lock it in other than the wife and kid? How easily can we make one that's doesn't break the bank?

Jeeps and dodges had the CAD with a similar setup. Dana 30 guys look for 1 piece xj and tj axle shafts to swap in. Dana 44 guys can get chromoly shafts to swap in. I haven't a clue what Dana 60 guys do, but I'm sure there are options. Both did away with the problematic CAD.

Knowing all of that, I saw this:

http://shop.synergyoffroad.com/Bravada- ... aShaft.htm

Sure it spins all the time, and some say could, maybe, perhaps, accelerate wear.... But it's locked in. Always.

I wonder if any ol' bravada shaft will work? I could make a block off plate from a piece of scrap. Some rtv to seal it up....

HJ? Reed? What say the elders?

Edit: http://www.zr2usa.com/mboard/lofiversio ... 47247.html

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Tue Nov 06, 2012 8:01 am

Jigg

QUOTE (Zr2freak316)
Is there any difference between this and a regular bravada shaft?

This shaft is a custom length to allow the use of the snap ring on the CV side, as originally designed for our trucks. The OEM bravada shaft requires that snap ring to be removed to use it in our trucks.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Tue Nov 06, 2012 9:33 am

Stock bravada passenger side axle shaft and tube:

Well I've been doing a lot of reading on this. Still 1 thing is unclear to me. As far as I know, everything I looked at, the trucks have all been zr2s. Is there any reason that this wouldn't work on a non zr2? I don't know these trucks well enough yet, I don't want to make an assumption that leads to a waste of time and money. If this is doable, it looks to me like the best option since it eliminates a very problematic gizmo that was never really important or needed to begin with.

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Nov 06, 2012 11:41 am

From our sister site TXZR2.com :Bravada Axle shaft install
S-10 Front Diff & Posi-Lok operation explained
The axle disconnect reduces rotating mass. To the best of my knowledge the CV - half shafts on a ZR2 are longer.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Tue Nov 06, 2012 3:58 pm

HenryJ wrote:.........To the best of my knowledge the CV - half shafts on a ZR2 are longer.........

I just finished performing a very quick search and I can't confirm or disprove that they are longer. I can't prove it but, I suspect they're the same. Bravadas share most other parts with the S10. How would the shafts work on ZR2s then? I'm stumped

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Nov 06, 2012 4:14 pm

F9K9 wrote:
HenryJ wrote:... Bravadas share most other parts with the S10. How would the shafts work on ZR2s then? I'm stumped

The axle shafts and differential are the same. The difference would be from the axle flange to the hub. The halfshaft longer? Part numbers are different for with and without RPO ZR2. Lengths are different too: W/O ZR2= CV Driveshaft Compressed Length : 23 3/8". With ZR2= CV Driveshaft Compressed Length : 25 3/8"

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Tue Nov 06, 2012 6:45 pm

So the bravada shaft should work in a non ZR2 (more specifically, a 2001-2004 crew cab

)?

If the differential and passenger side axle shafts (both) are the same between the ZR2 and non ZR2... I don't see why not.

I've already searched around a little bit locally, but if anyone happens to find a bravada shaft, I'm willing to try it out.

Edit: red ? added because it was a question, not a statement

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Tue Nov 06, 2012 7:02 pm

F9K9 wrote:I'm stumped

What I'm talking about is the passenger side inner axle shaft. Not the outer cv half shafts. Its a 1 piece axle shaft in a CAD housing. Think TJ/XJ 1 piece shaft in a YJ Dana 30 housing.

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Nov 06, 2012 10:05 pm

While it might seem a simple swap, there is a little more to it than that. Personally , I was not interested. The push button works better and the axle shift is better for mileage. I did not see enough benefit for the effort.
Maybe if an AWD transfercase and a street burner rig was being built. Even then probably not.
I'd save it for my 9" and Porsche CV front.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Wed Nov 07, 2012 11:11 am

Guess who just found a bravada that's getting parted out

bravada shaft will be in my possession in the near future.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Sat Nov 10, 2012 10:17 am

It looks like the guy parting out the Bravada has backed out. He won't answer the phone, and hasn't called or text me back. So, I'm on the lookout for another shaft and tube. It needs to be ~96+ Oldsmobile bravada, Chevy astro van, or gmc safari, must be from an AWD, must look just like the picture above. If any one can find one, ill pay for shipping and your time to get it.

AVTekk · Post by **AVTekk** » Mon Nov 12, 2012 10:57 am

Did you try car-part.com? Use the non-interchange search to get a broader year range. I know I have one Bravada and a number of Astros in the junkyard by me, it would be a nightmare getting that stuff out tho, all of the cars are on the ground.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Mon Nov 12, 2012 12:49 pm

AVTekk wrote:Did you try car-part.com?

No I haven't. I try to deal locally, when I can. The one I thought I was going to get was a bravada on Craigslist with front end damage getting parted out. I've been busy lately, and haven't been looking too hard. I'm yet to have any trouble getting the front to engage, but on the ol' 94 jimmy I had, it never worked right, and I hated it. I distinctly recall having to pull it out of the driveway with an old cop car i had at the time. Flat ground, like 2 inches of snow, the tcase would shift wherever i wanted it to, but that front axle would not engage. I'm a firm believer in less is more. Less moving parts in the front axle is a good thing. If I do start having trouble, and haven't found a shaft yet, I'll buy the kit from synergy (provided it will work, I'm gonna email them now)

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Nov 12, 2012 2:11 pm

All my local auto recyclers are listed in car-part.com . It is a recyclers search engine. Give it a try. It will list parts available in distance from you.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Mon Nov 12, 2012 3:00 pm

I did a little more looking. According to Gmpartsdirect.com the parts are #2 (shaft) and #6 (tube) on the diagram for new, no part number listed though. The shaft is $157.98 and the tube is $90.98. At $248.87 plus shipping and the fact that it technically isn't long enough.... I think the synergy kit is the better option at $329.95 plus shipping. You can get both clips on it and it is made out of 1541H (stock should be 1030 carbon steel). It's no chromoly 4340, but still better than stock. If a stock shaft can be had much cheaper, there's no reason not to try it, though. I'll continue looking later...

In the mean time here's a comparison shot of the 2 shafts and tubes side by side

Edit: I'm messing around on car-part.com ..... I assume its not possible to view the actually part? There is no real information on there, I don't know if I'm looking at cv shafts or axle shafts...

I'll give it another go later

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Mon Nov 12, 2012 4:30 pm

I just got a reply from Synergy Offroad confirming that their kit will indeed work for any s10 without flanged cv shafts. That includes all years of crew cab s10s 2001-2004. Does not matter if its a zr2 or non-zr2. GM changed the cv shafts around ~96 (don't quote me, I'm no s10 expert) from flanged to splined. From my research, it looks like you can convert from one to the other.

http://shop.synergyoffroad.com/Bravada- ... aShaft.htm

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Mon Nov 12, 2012 5:24 pm

You're doing some hard work, where others have tread before. I hope it works out and thanks for keeping us posted!!

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Mon Nov 12, 2012 6:45 pm

F9K9 wrote:You're doing some hard work, where others have tread before.

I haven't done any work, just google, gooogle, goooooooogle and read.

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Tue Nov 13, 2012 7:53 am

_STUCKY wrote:
F9K9 wrote:You're doing some hard work, where others have tread before.

I haven't done any work, just google, gooogle, goooooooogle and read.

The very best research is to read all you can find, talk to everyone who has ANY experience with anything connected and find real photos and or parts to look at. Sure has saved me a lot of headaches and money and time and Dumb Ass mistakes.

The only dumb question is the one you did not ask. Then make sure you research and verify the answers, trust only God.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Tue Nov 13, 2012 8:46 am

Horsehammerr wrote: The very best research is to read all you can find, talk to everyone who has ANY experience with anything connected and find real photos and or parts to look at.

Yea, researching this has really gotten me thinking about the transfer case and the entire front axle and suspension. The bravada shaft can expose an unbalanced front drive shaft, and the solution to that is a fixed yoke from an np231j, the correct seal, and a new drive shaft. If you are gonna do that, may as well get the jb conversions slip yoke eliminator for the back and a new rear drive shaft made, too. And thats the perfect time to swap in a ZR2 axle. It's got me thinking about polyurethane bushings in the entire front end, new ball joints, and I was told my idler arm is showing wear, so that's also got me thinking about the the 1 ton idler arm upgrade (research to follow that statement). And to add to that, it looks like the ideal front axle (using s10 parts, mind you, not a SFA, that is a totally different tangent haha) would be an iron differential, with the old style bravada shaft, going to flanged cv shafts.

By the way, I've got something up my sleeve that I've been waiting to show you guys...but not yet, it's not ready. Should be a week or so before its ready. I'm getting impatient.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Tue Nov 13, 2012 9:55 am

The part number for a stock gm bravada axle shaft is 26053319

Found while researching the idler arm upgrade

Edit: And some more good info:

On the standard S10 front diff, there is a small sensor on the axle tube which tells the TCCM that the front is engaged and than lets the t-case shift into 4wd. If you have an electronically shifted t-case such as a 233 or 236, and perform the bravada axle shaft swap, you must cut this sensor off and splice the wires together. This essentially tells the computer that the front end is always engaged.

AVTekk · Post by **AVTekk** » Tue Nov 13, 2012 11:54 am

Ya car-part.com is just a junkyard search, they don't list any pictures and many don't even have prices but what you do is find one that sound like its what you need then call and be specific. Its also good to email them with the pic of what you're looking for. Ive bought color-matched body panels from yards 5 states away and have them come in good condition but its always a gamble with used parts.

You mentioned the Bravada shaft isn't the correct length, why not? I'd def try the find the stock parts then buy the Synergy stuff also.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Wed Nov 14, 2012 1:17 am

AVTekk wrote:You mentioned the Bravada shaft isn't the correct length, why not?

Zr2freak316 wrote: Is there any difference between this** and a regular bravada shaft?

Jigg wrote: This shaft is a custom length to allow the use of the snap ring on the CV side, as originally designed for our trucks. The OEM bravada shaft requires that snap ring to be removed to use it in our trucks.

**"this" is the kit synergy offroad sells

AVTekk · Post by **AVTekk** » Wed Nov 14, 2012 12:32 pm

So if you were to do the Bravada shaft, the CV joint wont be locked into place? I'd be interested in seeing the difference in length between the two shafts.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Wed Nov 14, 2012 3:44 pm

I would also like to see the difference in length. I have not come across that yet in all the reading I've done. If I do, I'll certainly put it on here.

As far the cv not being locked into place, I'm really not sure what going on right there. I need to read more... That is one of the few reasons why the synergy kit looks better to me.

jedthrocornpone · Post by **jedthrocornpone** » Fri Mar 22, 2013 9:37 pm

Been running a Bravada tube and shaft since before the MML and love it. used a brass threaded cap (think it was from the plumbing section at the hardware store) over the "FWD engaged sensor". tore out the vacuum lines and actuator. only thing i did was trim the shaft on the diff end, read somewhere about it possibly bottoming it out and busting the diff. trimmed it at the split ring/ clip never had an issue.

uwwsquirrel · Post by **uwwsquirrel** » Thu Jul 25, 2013 8:58 pm

jedthrocornpone wrote:Been running a Bravada tube and shaft since before the MML and love it. used a brass threaded cap (think it was from the plumbing section at the hardware store) over the "FWD engaged sensor". tore out the vacuum lines and actuator. only thing i did was trim the shaft on the diff end, read somewhere about it possibly bottoming it out and busting the diff. trimmed it at the split ring/ clip never had an issue.

Question, Can you just leave the '4WD engaged sensor' disconnected, or does it needs to be capped or jumped? - just wondering how that sensor will effect the operation after the Bravada shaft axle install and how to go about bypassing it...

Thanks

jedthrocornpone · Post by **jedthrocornpone** » Fri Jul 26, 2013 6:08 am

The sensor lets the ECM know when the vehicle is physically in 4wd. From my reading it then changes shift points and things. I've read where other people have " grounded out " pins in the harness and stuff. For me the simplest thing was to get a 15 cent brass cap (would be used for sealing a output on the cold water valve under the kitchen sink if you removed a ice making fridge water line). I just took the sensor to the hardware store and never looked back. I am weeks from starting a SFA on my crew so my bravado shaft and tube along with my back-up shaft and tube will soon be up for sale.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Fri Jul 26, 2013 11:34 am

jedthrocornpone wrote:I am weeks from starting a SFA on my crew

Please start a thread and post up details and pictures when you get to it

uwwsquirrel · Post by **uwwsquirrel** » Fri Jul 26, 2013 8:15 pm

Thanks for the insight - I was asking for someone I recently sold a Bravada Shaft to.

jedthrocornpone wrote: I am weeks from starting a SFA on my crew so my bravado shaft and tube along with my back-up shaft and tube will soon be up for sale.

You Too!? Awesome - same here! It seems like everyones goin SFA lately. I'm still in the process of gathering all the parts. I just got my second Trac-Lok carrier from the yards yesterday. One's going in my 96 Rodeo D44 Rear, and the other for my 87 Waggy D44 Front. Also got 4.10 R&P's for both (Thick cut for the low carriers). Any suggestions as to what springs I should run up front for a SUA setup? - I have the stock Waggy Springs from the donor but there are quite a few leafs in the pack...

Oh Speaking of SFA - just spotted 2 - 98 Jeep Cherokee D30 front axles in the yards yesterday - complete they're gonna go fast! I've got my 44 but figured other people might be looking for these so I'm just throwin that out there.

Ok done thread jacking - lol

okaussiee · Post by **okaussiee** » Fri Jan 13, 2017 9:26 am

I have a quick question about the Bravada Axle Swap.

What keeps the Bravada axle shaft in place without sliding between the differential and the CV axle???

On the original axle disconnect you have the small axle with the gear that sits in the diff and the axle shaft to the CV joint keeps it there. And on the back side of the long axle shaft you have the thrust washer and that gear.

So, what keeps the Bravada from sliding???

I am thinking about doing the swap because I have had so many problems with this front axle system, it seems like this is the most reliable and trouble free of the two.

TIA

Bill

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Sat Jan 14, 2017 6:56 am

I wish I could answer this with certainty...

But I believe that the stock Astro shaft is a bit long and you can only get 1 snap ring on. The other shaft addresses this issue. I just skimmed through this again, but I don't recall reading of any issues using the Astro shaft. If I didn't go with the axle swap, this is what I would have done. You could also eliminate all the vacuum nonsense on the transfer case.

Let us know what you decide to do and how it works out

okaussiee · Post by **okaussiee** » Sat Jan 14, 2017 11:00 am

I agree with the vacuum problem. I have had so many problems with my 4wd system and everything has about been replaced at least once so I thought the Bravada Axle Swap would be next.

My CC now has over 210K miles on it and bought in new in 02. Seems like everyone likes the swap.

My only question was, what keeps the axle shaft in place without sliding from one end to the other.

The videos I have seen that shows rebuilding the front axle disconnect shows no C clips or anything that holds either one of the shafts in place.

How do you keep it from sliding??

TIA

Bill

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Sun Jan 15, 2017 8:51 am

I don't think it's going to be an issue. Someone is going to have to be the test mule and report back. Feeling lucky?

okaussiee · Post by **okaussiee** » Mon Jan 16, 2017 8:04 am

I will report back when I do it. It may be a while due to funding and the ability to find the axle shaft. Other forums state I don't have to use the Bravada axle tube, just the shaft. All of those parts are interchangeable.

We will see.

If it is more reliable and cheaper than to rebuild the front axle disconnect, then I am way ahead off the game..

Bill

okaussiee · Post by **okaussiee** » Wed Jan 18, 2017 7:55 am

I had a thought. I saw this on the s10 forum website. The split axle shaft was welded together by welding the sleeve to both gears, thus making it one shaft.

My question would be, is it stronger and more reliable with this method vs, just welding the two shafts together without the sleeve???

If I can't find the Bravada shaft, is this an alternative??

TIA

Bill

Built2Bend · Post by **Built2Bend** » Fri Jan 20, 2017 1:21 pm

Ok sorry i just found this I'll look back after I post this and double check My info so that I'm not giving false information. It's been a while since I did mine. Now the bravada shaft is about 1/8inch longer than your 2 piece combo. If you remove your 2 piece shaft you'll notice the inner shaft has no provision for a clip so you don't need to worry about having a clip the inside of your bravada shaft. The outer clip toward the cv axle will hold the bravada shaft from sliding into the diff and the cv axle its self will keep the shaft from trying to slide out of the diff. I left the inner clip on my axle because I Dident see a reason not to.

Now you don't have to use the tube from a bravada if you Dident want to you could just leaves the factory tube but it is much easier to use the bravada tube. Your going to have to remove the factory tube any how so why not replace it so you won't ever have to worry about the factory tube leaking where the pull cable comes in or some other problem. You can get a cover to cover that hole where the cable comes into the diff but I'll explain that below.

Now you can get the front shaft and tube. from a bravada, or an awd Astro van. If you can't find one I'd look into haveing some one else get one for you I could possibly do that for ya, but it's gonna be cheaper for you to remove it your self (it's a lot of labor and I wouldent want to charge you a lot) if you can't find one and you have a lot of money to burn outfitter design makes the shafts after market that are even the correct length and stronger than a factory bravada shaft they also sell block off plates so that you won't have to use a bravada tube and can use your factory tube (again not cheap). But that's an option you have

As far as welding your factory shaft that sound like a bad idea I would not do it unless it's a off road only truck. Welding the shafts together you could easily weld them off center and causeing a vibration and I'd guess if the vibration is bad enough could crack and break are alum front diffs a bravada shaft and tube are cheap I pulled mine for only $30.

Did I hit every ones questions?

okaussiee · Post by **okaussiee** » Sat Jan 21, 2017 12:26 pm

After looking at all the possibilities, I am leaning toward the rebuilding the front axle disconnect and keep it OEM.

Here is why:

I have been looking here in OkieLand and can't find the axle shaft.
Can't find a new one online except for the one from Outfitter Design. That one is $318 and includes the cover needed for the old disconnect.
Don't like the weld one either. I would hate to have it break when I needed it the most. Furthermore, how would you balance it?

The front axle disconnect kit is $100 on Ebay with free shipping. It has all the parts necessary to rebuild the disconnect.

What is funny about that place that sells the disconnect rebuild kit is, they do sell the axle shaft for the s10 we need but they do not sell the Bravada shaft.

Any better ideas, I am open for discussion.

I am presently getting stuff like the spindle nut socket, pickle fork, and the ancillary stuff to rebuild the disconnect. I am going to purchase the kit last.

More news as it becomes available....

TIA

Bill

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Sun Jan 22, 2017 7:36 am

I'd try car-part.com and see if you can get a junkyard to pull it and send it to you for a reasonable price. They will probably charge you for the time to get it out more than what the shaft is worth. Personally I would lean toward changing it rather than repairing it.

okaussiee · Post by **okaussiee** » Sun Jan 22, 2017 8:02 am

Yeah, I would like to go with the Bravada just because that would eliminate more moving parts to fail, and get rid of the entire vacuum system.

I will try your suggestion and see what turns up.

Bill

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Jan 22, 2017 10:16 am

How about the cable for engaging the front axle?

okaussiee · Post by **okaussiee** » Sun Jan 22, 2017 11:12 am

It has been replaced.

My problem is, I only have 4wd in Reverse not in Drive.

When I try to lock the right front wheel in, rotating the wheel in Reverse, it turns a little then stops like it should. When turning it in Drive, I can feel it clicking and can hear it clicking real soft.

When I try using the 4wd, my Reverse works fine, however it does not work in Drive.

These are the parts that have been replaced over the years:

Transmission
Transfer Case
Vacuum Actuator
Actuator Cable
Vacuum Transfer Case Switch
All the vacuum lines

This is what makes me think the gear or sleeve in the front axle is broken.

Bill

okaussiee · Post by **okaussiee** » Sun Jan 22, 2017 11:20 am

_STUCKY I Pm'd you. Did you get it??

Bill

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Jan 22, 2017 5:20 pm

Are you sure that the shift fork is on the slide and not beside it? Sounds like the actuator may not be on the correctly. I did that wrong once.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Sun Jan 22, 2017 6:04 pm

I'm wondering how involved is it to get deep enough to do the swap? What parts may need to be replaced at the same time?

But I'll agree with HJ, sounds like something is going on right there at the collar and fork. With it only working in reverse, I'm wondering if maybe the teeth on the collar are ate up. But I don't know, I haven't had much luck with this setup when it doesn't work.

okaussiee · Post by **okaussiee** » Mon Jan 23, 2017 7:30 am

That is what I am thinking too. It is rounded on one side of the teeth and sharp on the other which would give you reverse but not drive. The clicking sound I hear and feel in the right front tire tells me that in drive it is not engaging but it reverse it locks like it is suppose too.

Based on all of your information and research I have done, nothing like this has been reported but I think this is what is going on.

The rebuild kit is $100 and has everything needed to do the job, but my question is, by doing this is this only a temporary fix? Is the transfer case switch going to go bad again and start this all over again or by doing the Bravada swap which is about $50 for the axle and $30 for the plate going to fix it for good.

Now, I am leaning toward doing the Bravada Swap with the cover plate. This would eliminate all of the vacuum components, thereby not destroying the front axle disconnect which won't be there, and extend the overall life of the 4wd system.

I really do like this truck and it shows by the mileage on it. Keep it up and it still doesn't use any oil. Would like to continue to use it as a daily driver until the wheels fall off or I can't get the parts to fix it.

Now if I can just find the axle shaft...

Thanks guys,,,

Bill

Built2Bend · Post by **Built2Bend** » Wed Jan 25, 2017 9:46 pm

What's your location? Depending on shipping I may be able to find ya an axle for a decent price. There all over my local junk yards.

Hartleybl · Post by **Hartleybl** » Sat Mar 04, 2017 4:48 pm

i did the swap 2014, love it would never go back ! cost me 21 $ for axle and tube from u-pull it if I can ever find a cast iron front diff i'll feel more confident in some better gears.. been rollin 33's with stock 3.42's for 3 years now. its not a dog but my buddies blazer with stock tires has a lot more pep in its step

okaussiee · Post by **okaussiee** » Tue Mar 14, 2017 8:48 am

Since you have done this, how does the axle shaft stay in place without moving from side to side?

I have also read where the shaft is 1/8 inch too long in the diff and has to be cut off. Was this true in your case??

I am still thinking about doing the swap and want to have all the bases covered before I do it..

TIA

Bill

jedthrocornpone · Post by **jedthrocornpone** » Sun Jun 11, 2017 8:43 pm

I didn't do anything to keep the shaft from moving. I was concerned about the shaft bottoming out so on the outer end I trimmed the shaft at the C clip. Ran the whiz out of it, flexed the whiz out of it in Moab never had issues. The shaft would find the Bottom of the CV cup on one end and the cross pin inside the diff. I never had any issues. The only reason I'm not running it now is I went SFA.

okaussiee · Post by **okaussiee** » Mon Jun 12, 2017 6:39 am

Thanks for the info. I still haven't done it yet but am still wanting to. I was just afraid that it would bottom out in the differential and tear something up. Since the outer end is attached to the CV axle shaft, I didn't see that end as a problem.

When I get to it, I will let you all know how mine went.

TIA

Bill

southernzr5 · Post by **southernzr5** » Wed Feb 14, 2018 8:06 pm

After the swap what wire has to be grounded or what plug has to be capped?

jedthrocornpone · Post by **jedthrocornpone** » Wed Feb 14, 2018 9:26 pm

I used a plumbing cap ($.50 at hardware store)

https://www.signaturehardware.com/pipe- ... brass.html

And on this post, the parts diagram shows #13 indicators switch

https://blazerforum.com/forum/1st-gen-s ... ull-63122/

I pulled the switch from the housing, and threadlocked the little plumbing cap on so the switch always is on. Can’t vouch for any other way.