Bearings can go bad on a 6 yr old truck anytime. Try letting the little fellow ride in the back seat instead of tying a bacon soaked rag on your wheel.
[size=75][b]"For those who have fought for it, [i][color=red]FR[/color][color=white]EE[/color][color=blue]DOM[/color][/i] has a taste that the protected will never know."
[url=http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=73349]GUIDE TO SEARCHING. [i] (Some of the forum software is different but, it has helped me a lot.)[/i][/url][/b]
[b]"Those who don't know history are destined to repeat it." Edmund Burke[/b][/size]
Lots of good bearing threads around take a look, there is a diagnostic for what to look for in one or more of them. Jigg's parts are top notch, I replaced mine this past summer at 56K. Not a hard job.
When mine went bad the noise was on the side that was bad but I replaced both just to be safe since if one is bad the other probably is not too far behind.
[size=75]Why does the universe decree that if you have all the time in the world to work on projects you have no money and vice versa?
Green 2004 ZR-5 w/ too much to list here: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2296465[/size]
Sounds like what mine was doing. Left turns were relatively quiet, straight was noisy, right turns pretty loud. Once it seems to start "slipping"/"not catching" and the brake pedal acts crazy.....you've waited too long. (don't ask how I know )
Got that bearing back in October and all seems fine now.
[size=75]ALWAYS pray for and expect the best, but be prepared for the worst! Life seems to operate a little smoother for me this way[/size]
Okay, jack it up and place your hands at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions on your wheel. Any play will lead you to replacing the bearing assemblies. May as well do both because the one you replace will be the wrong one. Trust me I know! Just do them both now! They both will need replacing within a short timeline of each other. I know it sucks but, most of us have been there and did it on a tight budget. Better to get help here than trust the work to someone that probably will not have a resources that we can provide.
[size=75][b]"For those who have fought for it, [i][color=red]FR[/color][color=white]EE[/color][color=blue]DOM[/color][/i] has a taste that the protected will never know."
[url=http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=73349]GUIDE TO SEARCHING. [i] (Some of the forum software is different but, it has helped me a lot.)[/i][/url][/b]
[b]"Those who don't know history are destined to repeat it." Edmund Burke[/b][/size]
I will jack the truck up and try to see if one is sloppy.
I REALLY would like to do just one till spring its cold up here
How fast do they get worse if I run it abit longer will it get so sloppy that its obvious which one is bad??
I have read both versions of which one to replace I have
seen both views turn right and noisy its left bearing.....also seen turn
right and noisy its right bearing
Am I getting this right the preferred method is flip a coin replace one and hope??? It will be a few days till parts get here so I can yank and pull on both sides till then
How about posting up your location in your profile so, we can see what weather you are dealing with. There may be a break in the weather coming up. 15* here tonight but, 50* in two days from now.
Mine in my heep raised holy h_ll for months before I replaced it. It was the wrong one, of course! If, you are hauling family in it, you need to address it faster than if, it is just you going to work.
[size=75][b]"For those who have fought for it, [i][color=red]FR[/color][color=white]EE[/color][color=blue]DOM[/color][/i] has a taste that the protected will never know."
[url=http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=73349]GUIDE TO SEARCHING. [i] (Some of the forum software is different but, it has helped me a lot.)[/i][/url][/b]
[b]"Those who don't know history are destined to repeat it." Edmund Burke[/b][/size]
It took about 3 months of 60+ miles commuting before mine became unbearable ( I also waited for spring weather) The last couple of weeks I was hoping one did not seize with all the noise it was making.
[size=75]Why does the universe decree that if you have all the time in the world to work on projects you have no money and vice versa?
Green 2004 ZR-5 w/ too much to list here: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2296465[/size]
Looks like I'm about to join the club.
Which bearings have most of you used? I've checked threads and on line sites they run from around $70 to over $200. I took everyone's advice on the Bilsteins and getting the H2O out of the diff/vent tube. Now I wonder which bearings to get. I've seen some Timkens but they don't have the abs sensor - is the old sensor reusable, or should I get a unit with the sensor already installed?
Same story, 65K and it howls going straight or with some left turn - right turn and it goes away.
I'm planning on doing these with new brakes.
Nobody says anything about the rears - seems not to be much trouble with those...
The front wheel bearings are a double caged hub assembly. Plan on them being around $200 each.
I went with NAPA premium line. I don't know if that was good or bad, but they have been doing fine.
The sensor is just a conductive pick up. Not much can usually go wrong with a magnet. Wiring , seals and the chance for contamination might be good reasons to buy a hub assembly with the new sensor.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderIIKE7CSK
Does anybody know if the above US made hubs come with the oring seals?
I am leaning toward replacing left side first as when turning right it gets louder.
While I wait on the UPS truck I am going to drive it some more and see if it get louder and looser
What are our steering knuckles made from cast iron, steel, or aluminum? I helped a friend with a Sable his sterring knuckles were aluminum and with the salt here the aluminum oxides in the light pressfit was like a sheet of snadpaper adding friction to the joint. They were horrible to get out.
Any tricks to popping them out of the knuckle? The axle shaft will be easy I have a set of 3 jaw pullers up to 18 inch in diameter. I just do not see anything to rig up a puller to react against to pull the hub out of the knuckle
Hardest part of the whole job for me was breaking loose the axle nut if you can get them loose it's just a matter of removing the caliper hanging it out of the way and then unbolting the 3 bolts holding the hub to the knuckle. Jack from under the A arm to keep everything straight and use a puller to remove the hub. Reinstall new hub ( I do not remember getting the new o-rings but mine were still good so I just reinstalled). You will need a torque wrench to bolt up the axle nut, it needs 200lb/ft. He drop ships from the manufacturer so I got mine in just a couple of days.
[size=75]Why does the universe decree that if you have all the time in the world to work on projects you have no money and vice versa?
Green 2004 ZR-5 w/ too much to list here: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2296465[/size]
Cleaning up the surface rust on the knuckle's mating surfaces and applying a liberal dose of anti seize will make you or someone else very happy down the road.
[size=75][b]"For those who have fought for it, [i][color=red]FR[/color][color=white]EE[/color][color=blue]DOM[/color][/i] has a taste that the protected will never know."
[url=http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=73349]GUIDE TO SEARCHING. [i] (Some of the forum software is different but, it has helped me a lot.)[/i][/url][/b]
[b]"Those who don't know history are destined to repeat it." Edmund Burke[/b][/size]
Does anybody know if the above US made hubs come with the oring seals?
I am leaning toward replacing left side first as when turning right it gets louder.
While I wait on the UPS truck I am going to drive it some more and see if it get louder and looser
What are our steering knuckles made from cast iron, steel, or aluminum? I helped a friend with a Sable his sterring knuckles were aluminum and with the salt here the aluminum oxides in the light pressfit was like a sheet of snadpaper adding friction to the joint. They were horrible to get out.
Any tricks to popping them out of the knuckle? The axle shaft will be easy I have a set of 3 jaw pullers up to 18 inch in diameter. I just do not see anything to rig up a puller to react against to pull the hub out of the knuckle
Replaced left hub as sound got louder on right turns and that shifted wieght to the left front.
I used the above hub Steve posted. I did swap one of the ABS wire brakets for the one that cam on it to route wire better. It was the one that has the locating tab on the upeer control arm. Hubs are slightly diff Diameter smaller by about .30 where the stock ORing seal would go so it would serve no purpose to install thta ORing.
Now it the right one lasts till spring I will be a happy camper
Glad you got it back together, I am not sure it was a good idea to leave out the o-ring but time will tell.
[size=75]Why does the universe decree that if you have all the time in the world to work on projects you have no money and vice versa?
Green 2004 ZR-5 w/ too much to list here: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2296465[/size]
Like I said the diameter of the hub where the oring would have went was a good .030 smaller. I tried the oring in there BUT it did not seal anything and just flopped around loose in the space. Every other car I have helped change a bearing hub on had no seal there.
)
