Need to replace my heater core...need help.

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Need to replace my heater core...need help.

Post by adrenalnjunky »

Ok- I need someone with access to the GM shop manuals to email (Or paste here) the step by step for removing and replacing the heater core in our trucks.

Apparently mine has decided to let loose, so now I need to get it out of the truck and replace it - either that or learn to like the smell of coolant on a hot day seeping through my A/C vents.

Thanks in advance.
[size=75]Thanks, CHRIS
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
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Post by F9K9 »

Emailed to you ! The first part is what you need to do before the actual core replacement. I can't recall if I put anything in the subject line. If you have a spamblocker it will be from f9k9@earthlink.net.
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Post by adrenalnjunky »

Reed - i got the email, but for some reason none of the pictures are displaying, I can't find an attachment that would contain them.

Probably means that all the pics are housed on the CD, or different file structure than the text.

I may just try and get you to print the instructions and mail them to me possibly? I'd pay you whatever you want in return.
[size=75]Thanks, CHRIS
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
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Post by F9K9 »

Email me your address for snail mail if I do not get it posted here tonite. I'll have to copy the pics and then upload them to imagestation and try to keep them in order and add them to the cut and paste thingy. Do you have microsoft word? If so, it will be really easy to do. :D Have been gone all day with the strike force.
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Post by adrenalnjunky »

Yep- I've got pretty much any word processing software, image software, or anything else -- I'll PM you my home addy if that doesn't work.
[size=75]Thanks, CHRIS
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
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Post by F9K9 »

Okay, is being uploaded now! Let me know if you need anything else :thumb:
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Post by F9K9 »

Did you ever get the email with the "word" attachment?
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Post by adrenalnjunky »

Yeah - it had everything but the instructions for the actual removal of the HVAC system, but I think I can figure it all out from what I have. I'll be getting started on it tomorrow morning/afternoon, so I'll know more then.

What ticks me off is that 55K miles is way too early for a heater core to have gone south - I'm 98% positive this is a result of Air leaking in through the crap stock radiator cap, and screwing up the Dex-cool.

Too bad my flush and switch to green wasn't early enough to correct the issues.
[size=75]Thanks, CHRIS
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
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Post by F9K9 »

I'll look at it in the morning to see if I missed something.
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Post by adrenalnjunky »

Ok- this will be a short post -

This was the hardest procedure I have ever attempted on a vehicle before.

The way our trucks are put together makes them infinitely harder than other vhicles I have owned/worked on before.

Pictures will follow, but heres a synopsis:
Completely remove the dashboard from the vehicle, and most of the electrical wiring harness.

remove front right wheel/tire and take the battery, inner fender, computer and overflow reservoir out of the truck.

you have to find a couple of studs/bolts on the firewall and take the nuts off of them - several are hidden, and you have to cut into your AC evaporator housing to get to one. (Yes cutting the housing away is part of GM's recommended procedure for taking the heater/ac vent and control mechanism out.)
once you have the heater/ac control system removed from the truck, then you can change the heatercore in about 5 minutes.

There is no shortcut, no secret way to get the heatercore out without having removed the hvac system from the truck.

Reed, you have been my hero with the diagrams you got me, cause as thing things always are, the picture meant a lot more than the instructions. You were a lifesaver, and I could not have done it without your help!!

Pictures will follow
[size=75]Thanks, CHRIS
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
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Post by F9K9 »

adrenalnjunky wrote:This was the hardest procedure I have ever attempted on a vehicle before.............................. Reed, you have been my hero with the diagrams you got me, cause as thing things always are, the picture meant a lot more than the instructions. You were a lifesaver, and I could not have done it without your help!!................


Awwww shucks :oops:

It was nothing that HJ wouldn't do for any of us and I just wanted to pick up a little slack :D

The last couple emails didn't show any pics when I pasted them to "Word" and was concerned about that. Maybe you saw them but, I sure didn't. :lol:

It looked scary to me to perform that repair but, then I just got done with a major battle (to me) of dealing with my spark plug wire looms :lol:

After I did my '97 ZR2's wires I swore I would pay someone to do it :lol:

Brule convinced me to do it so he earns a "kudo" :D

Congratulations on your job. :thumb:

Was there any hidden hoses that you could have replaced while you were in "never-never land" and did you replace them?
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Post by adrenalnjunky »

Hoses? Not really- but one thing I was gonna mention - the sparkplugs will be a cinch now that I've taken a look at them with a inner fender removed- you can reach right up in there and get to them easily.

Lemme go grab my digital camera and post a series of pics.
[size=75]Thanks, CHRIS
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
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Post by adrenalnjunky »

Last edited by adrenalnjunky on Tue Jan 23, 2007 9:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.
[size=75]Thanks, CHRIS
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
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Post by HenryJ »

OMG, that looks like lots of work!

Reed, I think we found someone who smokes as much as you - IMAGE

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Post by BADs Crew »

WHAT A PITA !!! I had to replace the one in my G=20 Van and had to pull the dash but not the freaking fender. I hope you had help........ smoking all those cigarettes.
[size=75]2001 S-10 Crew , A.R.E Cap, Limo tint windows, Halogen Back up lights. Bilstein Shocks, 1.5 Rear Spacers, Summit Rear Diff Cover Clear Bumper Lights, Carbon Altezza Tail Lights, Billet Grill. SS Step Bars. GM full front bra. ,,, GM Quote concerning the gurgling heater core " They all sound like that"[/size]
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Post by adrenalnjunky »

Disclaimer - I don't smoke, that's my wife's ashtray, and it hasn't been dumped in several weeks, and I don't let her smoke int he house, so all the smoking is done there in the carport. Plus we have had a Hurricane evacuee staying on our couch for the last 2 weeks, and she was a smoker as well - there's been a lot of stress/sympathy smoking going on at the house lately...
[size=75]Thanks, CHRIS
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
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Post by F9K9 »

I never have got a break concerning my "habit" :lol:

Does your wife wanna race a 10K against me?

Sincerely, I always have smoked except for a 1x 10 yr lay off and believe it or not it is a freakin' habit to keep my hands busy :lol:

I did use to race but, have always smoked but, I don't inhale :lol:

I use to run 60 plus miles a week and now I am happy with 15. Let's drop that subject and "truck" on

Image

Any one have a "light"?
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Post by HenryJ »

Take a look at that post above :shock: the avatars pose and the "cigarette smoking man" are posed too similarly.
It is almost like an older "hoff".

Another conspiracy theory?

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Post by F9K9 »

Since we are obviously beating a dead horse, I thought I'd drink with one (or two in this case) :lol:

Image
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Post by F9K9 »

HenryJ wrote:Take a look at that post above :shock: the avatars pose and the "cigarette smoking man" are posed too similarly.
It is almost like an older "hoff".

Another conspiracy theory?
Hmmmmmmmmm, isn't there a hanger at Wright Patterson AFB that might contain the answers we seek? :D
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Post by F9K9 »

Someone has done one thorough internet search. :lol:

He found this thread and emailed me for the GM data heater core replacement instructions My microsoft word will not copy the pics so, I just spent an hour cutting and pasting :shock:

I'm saving the documents this time :idea:

This is not something I would want to tackle but, if his estimate of $1,000.00 is anywhere near the nationwide norm then, I'd attempt it too.

I feel for our brother on this long holiday weekend.Image
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Post by ericsgmcjimmy »

I recently replaced my heater core because it had been leaking. I had gotten by all summer by bypassing it under the hood. However, now it is fall and I need a heater.

Here is a link to some pictures. www.cardomain.com/ride/2214879/6

Replacing the heater core takes a very long time. It involves removing the dash to get at the heater core. You are also supposed to remove the inner fenderwell to get at some hidden bolts. Since I have replaced my stereo and speakers and had the wiring running through the dash, I could not remove the dash completely. I simply pulled it out as far as I could and managed to get at the heater core. Also, instead of removing the inner fenderwell (which involves removing the computer, coolant resevoir, battery and more) I simply bent the inner fenderwell by hand until I could get at the right bolts. Once you have the heater unbolted it is very simple to remove the heater core. Installation is the reverse of taking it apart.

As you may have guessed, I was fed up with the amount of work it takes to remove the heater core. But, once it was put back together I still couldn't drive it because the intake manifold gasket needed to be replaced. After my mechanic fixed the intake manifold gasket, my vehicle made a clunking noise and didn't handle to well. At home, I discovered that the swaybar to lower a-arm mount had broken off (due to my driving style, not my mechanic). So today, my vehicle sits at home waiting for me to fix the next problem.

Thanks to f9k9 for emailing me a copy of the GM instructions for removing the heater core. It definitely helped as did my Haynes repair manual. If anyone reads this and needs some tips for replacing the heater core, PM me and I'll be happy to help (if I haven't given up and sold my vehicle)
[size=75]1999 GMC Jimmy 4 door, 2" body lift, 31" Interco Trxus MT, Daystar lift shackles and more
www.cardomain.com/ride/2214879 www.putfile.com/ericsgmcjimmy[/size]
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Post by srbianats »

ericsgmcjimmy,

I'm in the middle of doing this. I sent you a PM.
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Post by kwalsh »

My front windshield fogged up extremely bad last night on the way home from work. The heater control was set to my feet only. Is this fogged windshield due to a heater core gone bad? I haven't located any wet carpet and there is an odor that is coming out of the ducts.

Is there any troubleshooting I can perform to determine if the heater core has sprung a leak?
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Post by adrenalnjunky »

Well, the real thing to look for is was the fogged windshield due to just normal condensation, or is it due to coolant being mixed into the HVAC air?

Every vehicle I have had a HC go bad in would tend to develop a film on the inside of the windshield due to the atomized coolant in the air.

And the odor - does it smell like coolant? If so - yes you probably need to do the deed. I never had any wet carpet either.
[size=75]Thanks, CHRIS
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
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Post by kwalsh »

went out for lunch today...I got a strong wiff of coolant when the heated air first came out of the vents. :x
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Post by adrenalnjunky »

yep - unfortunately - sounds like you have a replacement in your future.

It's a daunting task, but not insurmountable. And doing it your self over a weekend is much better than a $800 repair bill. I think my core cost me less than $60 from the auto parts store.

**Edit - I just realized all of my pics are no longer linked. My old domain hosting firm got hacked and my folders were mostly destroyed. I'll look on my machine @ home and see if I still have the images somewhere.**
[size=75]Thanks, CHRIS
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
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Post by kwalsh »

Thank you for looking for those pics. They will be extremely valuable. This fix will not be fun. I wish I had a garage.
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Post by mattfu »

well looks like im another victim, $1200 for heater core replacement, looks like i have a couple days work to do. if anyone is willing to email plans and pics of this job as above, please, please send to matt12003@yahoo.ca thanks in advance
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Post by adrenalnjunky »

pics are relaoded and relinked. Some are slightly more than 100K limit, so HJ might ask me to resize again or hide them.

If you know they are over the forum limit, save me the work and link them please-HJ
[size=75]Thanks, CHRIS
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
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Post by F9K9 »

List your email address in your profile or PM me with it. I would have already sent them to you otherwise :lol: It will have to be tonight before I can now.
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Post by F9K9 »

Sorry, I just saw your email address and believe I have sent all that I have on it. I hope you have "WORD" on your PC.
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Post by mattfu »

thanks f9k9, awesome diagrams, lifesaver.
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Post by F9K9 »

mattfu wrote:thanks f9k9, awesome diagrams, lifesaver.
Anytime :thumb:

I really need to reorganize my "stuff" and back it up before a crash occurs.
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Post by kwalsh »

I started to look at my sevice manuals and review the steps to replace this $60 part....this is my last GM vehicle. :evil: I am quite annoyed with GM over this design flaw.

And just to clarify, I switched to the green stuff soon after questions and concerns were raised with DexCool and replaced both the radiator cap and installed the extra capacity aftermarket radiator.
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Post by WVHogRider »

kwalsh wrote:I started to look at my sevice manuals and review the steps to replace this $60 part....this is my last GM vehicle. :evil: I am quite annoyed with GM over this design flaw.
:?: And Just which company do you think provides the best vehicle with the least design "flaws"... :roll: ...Each and every manufacture/car/truck has their own flaws!! :wink:

My grandmother's old Taurus only had one grease point according to my father...., but I can't back that up due to not being able to bring myself to actually work on a FORD :yikes: !!!
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Post by F9K9 »

This is also my last new GM rig. Emphasis is on the word "new". My "Z" trim measurement specification complaint and how corporate customer service BSed me until my warranty ran out is the major reason. That battle can be found with a little searching but, I am not inclined to even look for it.

If, I had to buy anything new it, would be anything other than something from GM!

I hope you respect my opinion as much as I respect yours :wink:
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Post by kwalsh »

I caved... I gave up. It's too friggin cold outside to do this fix in my driveway. A local dealer quoted me $650. I brought it to them on Saturday.

And yes I do respect other people's opinion. You will notice that I don't bash someone else's statement. This too will be my last new GM. I may buy an old pickup in the future if I buy the farm I've always wanted. I would love to have a '69-71 Chevelle or Camaro.... 8)
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Post by F9K9 »

kwalsh wrote:I caved... I gave up. It's too friggin cold outside to do this fix in my driveway....................
It is a bad time of year to perform this repair. I think it is a bad time of year to replace the heater core any time of year. I hope to he_l mattfu has found a garage somewhere. It has got to be miserable up where he lives. :!:
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Post by mattfu »

yes i have a garage, pretty small to be removing dash and body panels but i'll make it work. and the weathers not bad bout -20C today but gets up above freezing once in awhile. i plan to start the job in feb sometime (depending when parts arrive) i would like to do any other advised work while the cooling system is down, i allready have the low temp thermostst ready to go in and i will be flushing the dex out at this time, any other cooling system maintenance i should do at the same time???
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Post by kwalsh »

Did you replace the OEM radiator for the extra capacity aftermarket?

You might want to consider replacing the oil transfer lines to and from the oil cooler & oil filter before they start leaking.

While you are at it might be a good time to add a transmission cooler.
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Post by mattfu »

allready have the tranny cooler, just waiting for some temp readings before i install it, to see how much difference it makes, radiator might be a good idea hmmmmm
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Post by kwalsh »

this might help. HenryJ did a nice write up on Transpro's radiator.

http://www.s-10crewcab.com/og1/modinfo/rad/rad.htm
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Heater Core Replacement Instructions

Post by pyroclastic »

I would really appreciate it if someone would email me the heater core replacement steps with pictures.

berobi@gmail.com

Thanks
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Post by T Man »

since it is up here ill go ahead and get on the bandwagon. Our mitchel at the shop sucks

tommystutz@gmail.com
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Re: Heater Core Replacement Instructions

Post by F9K9 »

pyroclastic wrote:............berobi@gmail.com

Thanks
PMed and emailed and I want your first born! :wink:
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Post by HenryJ »

GM Data wrote:Heater/Vent Module Replacement
Removal Procedure

1. Remove the instrument panel.
2. Drain the engine coolant.
3. On vehicles with automatic climate control only, cut the outer layer of the A/C evaporator and blower module in order to access the service access cover.
4. On vehicles with automatic climate control only, remove the service access cover mounting screws.
5. On vehicles with automatic climate control only, remove the service access cover.
6. On vehicles without automatic climate control, remove the blower motor resistor. Refer to Blower Motor Resistor Assembly Replacement .

Important

Mark and use the same mounting bolt for the heater/vent module during the installation process. Other mounting bolts are longer and will obstruct the operation of the temperature door.
7. Remove the heat/vent module mounting bolt through the blower motor resistor or service access cover opening.
8. On vehicles with A/C only, remove the right wheel house panel.
9. On vehicles with A/C only, raise and support vehicle.
10. On vehicles with A/C only, remove the front right tire.
11. On the Utility only, remove the A/C evaporator and blower module heat shield screws.
12. On the Utility only, slide the A/C evaporator and blower module heat shield toward the front of the vehicle.
13. Remove the 2 lower heat/vent module mounting nuts.
14. On the Utility only, remove the A/C evaporator and blower module heat shield bracket.
15. Remove the bottom right heat/vent module mounting bolt from inside the vehicle.

Important

The heat/vent mounting stud has a flange on the inside and cannot be removed from under the hood. Stop turning the stud after the threads are off the heat/vent module.
16. On the Utility only, while an assistant inside the vehicle pulls the bottom right corner of the heat/vent module approximately 2.5 mm (1 in) back, remove the 2 heat/vent module mounting studs.
17. On vehicles with A/C only, lower the vehicle.
18. On vehicles with a 2.2 L engine only, remove the engine wiring harness bracket located at the rear of the intake manifold.
19. Remove the HVAC module mounting bolt located at the lower left side of the heater core to heater hose connection.
20. Remove the HVAC module mounting nut located at the lower right side of the heater core to heater connection.

Important

The heat/vent mounting stud has a flange on the inside and cannot be removed from under the hood. Stop turning the stud after the threads are off the heat/vent module.
21. On the Utility only, loosen the HVAC module mounting studs until the threads are free from the heat/vent module.
22. Disconnect all of the electrical connectors from the HVAC module.
23. Disconnect all of the vacuum lines from the heater assembly.
24. Disconnect the heater hoses from the heater core.
25. Remove the HVAC module from the vehicle.

Installation Procedure

1. If replacing the HVAC module, transfer the components from the old heat/vent module as necessary.

Important

Before installing the HVAC module to the vehicle, ensure that the HVAC module mounting studs are located in the proper positions.
2. Install the HVAC module to the vehicle.
3. Connect the heater hoses to the heater core.
4. Connect all of the vacuum lines to the heater assembly.
5. Connect all of the electrical connectors to the HVAC module.
6. Install the bottom right HVAC module mounting bolt from inside the vehicle approximately halfway into the threads.
7. On the Utility only, install the HVAC module mounting stud located at the lower right side of the heater core to heater hoses connection in the engine compartment.
Tighten the HVAC module mounting stud to 4.5 N·m (40 lb in).
8. On vehicles with A/C only, raise the vehicle.
9. On the Utility only, install the bottom right HVAC mounting studs. Ask an assistant to pull the bottom right corner of the HVAC module back from inside the vehicle.
Tighten the heat/vent module mounting studs to 4.5 N·m (40 lb in).
10. On the Utility only, install the A/C evaporator and blower module heat shield bracket.
11. Install the heater/vent module mounting nuts.
Tighten the HVAC module mounting nuts to 4.5 N·m (40 lb in).
12. On the Utility only, slide the A/C evaporator and blower module heat shield into the original position.
13. On the Utility only, install the A/C evaporator and blower module heat shield screws.
Tighten the A/C evaporator and blower module heat shield screws 2.2 N·m (19 lb in).
14. On vehicles with A/C only, install the right front tire.
15. On vehicles with A/C only, lower the vehicle.
16. Install the bottom right HVAC module mounting bolt from inside the vehicle.
Tighten the HVAC module mounting bolt to 4.5 N·m (40 lb in).
17. On vehicles with A/C only, install the right wheel house panel.
18. Install the HVAC module mounting nut located at the lower right side of the heater core to heater connection.
Tighten the HVAC module mounting nut to 4.5 N·m (40 lb in).
19. Install the HVAC module mounting bolt located at the lower left side of the heater core to heater hose connection.
Tighten the HVAC module mounting bolt to 4.5 N·m (40 lb in).
20. On vehicles with the 2.2 L engine only, install the engine wiring harness bracket located at the rear of the intake manifold.
Important

Use the same mounting bolt marked during removal for the HVAC module during the installation process. Other mounting bolts are longer and will obstruct the operation of the temperature door.
21. Install the HVAC module mounting bolt through the blower motor resistor or service access cover opening.
Tighten the HVAC module mounting bolt to 4.5 N·m (40 lb in).
22. On vehicles without automatic climate control, install the blower motor resistor.
23. On vehicles with automatic climate control only, install the service access cover.
24. On vehicles with automatic climate control only, install the service access cover mounting screws.
Tighten the screws to 1.9 N·m (17 lb in).
25. On vehicles with automatic climate control only, install the outer layer of the A/C evaporator and blower module.

Important

Do not use RTV. Apply the adhesive bead as straight as possible. Allow the adhesive to set for 15 minutes or until the adhesive becomes tacky.
26. Seal the cut line using black weather-strip adhesive.
27. Refill the engine coolant.
28. Install the instrument panel.
29. Calibrate the HVAC module actuator.

Heater Core Replacement
Removal Procedure


1. Remove the heater/vent module.
2. Remove the heater core access cover screws.
3. Remove the heater core access cover.
4. Remove the heater core from the heater/vent module.

Installation Procedure

1. Install the heater core to the heater/vent module.
2. Install the heater core access cover.
Tighten the heater core access cover screws to 1.9 N·m (17 lb in).
3. Install the heater/vent module.

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Post by Country_Guy »

I see the proveedure listed above but could someone send me pictures through e-mail. BTW HenryJ I have been real busy and not had time to flush the coolant like you suggested. Although the weirdest thing has happened. I left yesterday morning for awhile, I turned on the defroster because it was raining and without it the window kept fogging up and its a miracle the damn thing has stopped making noise (there and back no noise radio was off and didn't hear a thing. I even got home and when to the other side and stuck my head down by the dash and its gone. I am still going to flush and fill with the green stuff (I am already using the green stuff). I am also going to buy another cap (I was going to the other day and didn't get around to it).

I think I am going to flush, fill, at least try it first if it starts back up again I will change the heater core. This truck as much as I love it, is costing me a ton and starting to test my patients every time I turn around its another 3-500 bucks or more.

Thanks, Zach
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Post by HenryJ »

Country_Guy wrote:... could someone send me pictures through e-mail.
The pictures are all there still. They are linked above since they are over the 100k limit.

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Post by ang94541 »

I just replaced my heater core. LOL

Here are some pics. I'll try to add more.
http://s395.photobucket.com/albums/pp38 ... placement/
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Re: Need to replace my heater core...need help.

Post by Firstoni »

Can someone email me this document?

firstoni@gmail.com


Thanks!
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Re: Need to replace my heater core...need help.

Post by F9K9 »

I've switched computers 2x since I created the word document, I can't open the complete document because it is looking for the Microsoft word 2002 disc to re register. It won't let me install the version on a different machine. I wish that I can help but, I can't.
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